OTL22-24, trip log, Weddell Sea - In search of the Emperor Penguin, incl. helicopters

The day had finally come! It was time to board the good ship Ortelius for our Antarctic expedition to search for Emperor Penguins! It was a typical mixed weather kind of a day for Ushuaia and many of us walked down the pier to Ortelius in light rain. Despite that, the surrounding scenery of snow-capped mountains was spectacular. Approaching the ship, we could see a helicopter sitting on Ortelius’ flight deck, one of the three that would be sailing with us. The one on deck was callsign CC-CHQ, otherwise known as ‘Quebec’, which had flown on to Ortelius the day before as she passed the Chilean town of Puerto Williams, en-route to Ushuaia. The crew and Expedition Team had loaded our luggage onboard and delivered it to our cabins earlier in the day. All that remained was for us to take a few photos of Ortelius, our home for the next ten days, before heading up the gangway.

We were warmly welcomed by the crew and staff who assisted us in finding our cabins. We had some time to explore the ship, get our bearings, and grab a coffee in the bar. Everyone was on board by 14:45. Then it was time to gather in the Lecture Room for the mandatory ship safety briefing. Once complete, we could sail. We met Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, and listened to Chief Officer Sjoerd Van Hoek. We were given important information such as how to move safely around the ship, what we could and could not do, and how to put on our emergency life jackets. Then it was time for an abandon ship drill. After hearing the emergency alarm we went to our cabins, got our lifejackets, and went to our muster station in the bar. From there we were guided to our lifeboats, so we knew where to go in case of a real emergency.

As the lifeboat briefing by the Second Officer was concluding, Captain Per pulled Ortelius away from the dock and got us underway. We departed Ushuaia at precisely 15:30. At first Ortelius traveled at a reduced speed because we had to receive our last two helicopters which were waiting to take off from Ushuaia Airport. The flight deck was prepared, ‘Quebec’ was moved to one side, and the call was made. Expedition Leader Sara made an announcement, and we gathered on the outer decks to see the helicopters arrive. In no time at all the first helicopter was seen approaching. This was callsign LV-CUT - ‘Tango’ - piloted by Chief Pilot Julio Arce. As the engineers, pilots and deck crew set about removing the blades, our third and final helicopter arrived and circled the ship. ‘Tango’ was wheeled into the hanger, then clearance to land was radioed to the final helicopter. At precisely 16:25, LV-CUS – ‘Sierra’ – landed. The blades were quickly removed, and Sierra joined Tango in the hangar. Quebec would remain out on the flight deck wrapped in a protective ‘jacket’.

With the excitement over, Captain Per got Ortelius up to full speed and we headed off down the Beagle Channel. Captain Per then invited us to join him in the bar for champagne and canapés, to raise a glass and toast the voyage ahead. This was followed by an introduction to shipboard services by Hotel Manager Volodymyr, and an overview of our expedition by our illustrious leader Sara. Before this concluded we met the Expedition Team and Aircrew.

With briefing formalities concluded, it was time for our first evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection prepared by Head Chef Ivan and his galley team, served by the ever-friendly dining room staff. After dinner, we were called back to the bar so that two more mandatory briefings could be delivered. Because 100% attendance is required, these briefings were done while Ortelius was still in the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. Expedition Leader Sara first briefed us on the Antarctic Visitor Guidelines, as laid down by IAATO – the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – of which Oceanwide is a founding member. And then Sara gave us the Zodiac Safety Briefing. How lucky we were to have both Zodiacs and helicopters at our disposal on this exciting voyage. z

After a long day of travel, it was time for bed and some well-earned rest. What would tomorrow bring. The infamous Drake Passage lay ahead. We hoped (some prayed) that it would be kind.

We received our first ever wakeup call from Sara with excitement. There was some movement in the night as we entered open water, but we woke up to find ourselves in a ‘Drake Lake’ not a ‘Drake Shake’. Most of us were up and about before the wake-up call taking in the vast seascape and seeing our first glimpses of albatross and petrel species.

After a buffet breakfast, Gary started off the lecture program with a presentation called ‘Ice is Nice’, where he described how sea ice and icebergs are formed, along with excellent sound effects of the growlers and the nilas ice. Almost straight after Gary’s talk the bridge announced that there were whales nearby. It was the perfect sea conditions for seeing these animals at long distances. We watched their tall blows burst from the surface and we could see their dark backs rolling. They were identified as being fin whales, the second largest whale in the world and an excellent first marine mammal species to spot. However, on closer inspection of some photographs taken by guide Jens, we realized that one of the individuals was a blue whale! The biggest of all the animals in the world!

Rather fittingly, Jess then gave us a talk about the whale, dolphin, and porpoise species that we could see on our journey and gave us some tips on how to spot and identify them. The glorious ‘Drake Lake’ conditions were perfect for spotting more of these wonderful creatures.

We had a buffet lunch before going down to the lecture room on Deck 3 to receive our Muck Boots, that would keep our feet warm and dry throughout the expedition. We then had some free time to enjoy the amazing bird species outside, including the Wandering albatross, with its incredible 3-meter wingspan, the delicately patterned Cape petrels, and the darting prions and blue petrels.

We all attended a mandatory briefing about the helicopter operations, which was exciting, we could only imagine what the views and the feeling of flying over Antarctica must feel like.

At our first daily recap in the evening, Sara gave us the exciting news that tomorrow we would be visiting Deception Island. Gary explained how seabirds use dynamic soaring to save energy as they fly over the waves. Pippa gave us a brilliant introduction to the Antarctic Convergence just as we were beginning to sail over it. And finally, Bill talked to us about his time as an art teacher and about how to process and appreciate the sights and sounds we were about to encounter. Looking, Seeing, Thinking, and Doing.

The action didn’t stop after dinner. We saw some beautiful light-mantled sooty albatross flying right above the ship, making use of the wind whipped up by the ship, just as Gary had explained to us. Almost simultaneously, two fantastic humpback whales appeared close to the ship, making their long migration journey down to Antarctica to their feeding grounds. Who knows, maybe we will bump into the same two whales in a few days’ time near the Antarctic Peninsula.

It’s already becoming a habit with Sara making our wakeup call at 07:45. Over the night we continued our good speed in mercifully calm waters of the Drake Passage. The early risers were already up and about, photographing the spectacular sea birds that followed the ship. A few whale blows were spotted before breakfast, but they were distant, and we never really got closer looks. Still there was plenty of entertainment with a sizable squadron of Cape Petrels circling Ortelius. This airborne parade is one of the delightful things about passing through these waters.

It proved to be another busy day as we started with Sara giving us a passionate talk about Penguins. Shortly after that we continued the process of preparing ourselves for landing in Antarctica AND getting in the helicopters to visit the Emperor penguins at Snow Hill Island. Soon after Sara finished, we began a split activity. Starting with activity group 1 we called everyone in turn to the bar for a dry run with the helicopters. It is an important activity that shows everyone exactly what will happen when we do a real helicopter operation. Each participant of the first group went to the Helideck fully dressed and ready to fly. They were all shown the helicopters and were allowed to sit in them so that they realized exactly how little space we have for any extra gear. It was also the best time for photos of the helicopter on the deck, because photos are not allowed during real operations to keep everyone focused on safe loading. While that was happening, other groups were called down to the lecture room with all their equipment to go through very thorough biosecurity checks. We inspected, cleaned - and even vacuumed - everything.

Land ho! While we were all focused on our preparations, the ship continued on. The weather changed so that we had a bit of fog and then wet snow fell. We spotted our first lone piece of ice, a growler about 400 meters off the ship, and soon started to see more small pieces of ice. Through the sleet and snow, we were soon able to make out the mountains of the South Shetland Islands. WE ARE HERE! Our trusty ship turned to sail between Snow and Smith Islands on our way to Deception Island. These were the wild South Shetland Islands!

More whales graced the scene as we proceeded to Deception. We had an early recap in hopes of getting in before lining up to enter Neptune’s Bellows. Sara gave us the run down on the latest ice conditions and weather and how we hope to take advantage of a widening gap in the sea ice at the gateway to the Weddell Sea. Jens did manage to tell us a short history of Deception Island and how from its discovery in 1820 it went through the sealing and whaling until the market fell out of both. From there, the British used it as a listening station in WWII and finally its last incarnation was as a research station. That all ended in 1969 when one of the last big eruptions of Deception Island destroyed the station buildings. Since then, it has mainly been a popular stop for expedition cruise vessels.

Just before the recap was about to end, Captain Per lined up the ship to take her through Neptune’s Bellows - and into the caldera. Once through the narrow opening, we took a hard right turn and dropped anchor in Whalers Bay. The snow had stopped, but there was a cold wind blowing that confirmed we were in Antarctica. Some went left on the beach, and some went right, but everyone was enchanted by the large number of Gentoo penguins milling around the beach. It was windy and a bit chilly, but the snow had stopped so it was a wonderland of snow, penguins and worn-out historic buildings.

We had one last bit of madness to finish off the day. Around 20 of us felt it was a good idea to take the polar plunge. They were brave, if a little bit foolhardy, to take the plunge today, with the wind and surrounded by snow. But plunge, they did. Once that was over there was nothing left but to head back to the ship, get a hot shower, enjoy a delicious buffet dinner, and turn in and dream about Emperor penguins. Fingers crossed for tomorrow!

Yet another calm sea night sent us gently to sleep, getting us ready for a new day’s experiences. Waking up to a completely calm surface, but in foggy conditions, we found ourselves surrounded by icefloes and icebergs. The captain and the officers on the bridge were carefully maneuvering Ortelius around the denser areas of ice trying to find open leads that allowed us to go deeper into Antarctic Sound. The fog added to the overall atmosphere of the experience. We occasionally saw penguins in the water and on ice floes close by.

As Pippa’s lecture took us through all the interesting details about the seal species we are likely to see - including the fascinating leopard seal - visibility increased a bit, and we could enjoy massive tabular icebergs and often Adelie penguins either on - or swimming around - the smaller icebergs.

Then expedition guide Allan told the fantastic story of the Swedish South Polar Expedition led by Otto Nordenskjöld on the ship, Antarctic. Allan explained how their ship sank in the pack-ice, forcing the men to spend an extra winter, marooned at three locations. It was the most incredible coincidence and luck that brought them all together, and their eventual rescue by the Argentinian Navy. Definitely “The Greatest Escape”!

After a delicious lunch, most of us went out on the outer decks to enjoy the incredibly beautiful land(sea)scape, as we slowly made our way deeper into Antarctic Sound in near calm conditions.

Later in the afternoon, we approached more solid ice – and yes, we got slightly stuck and had to reverse a couple of times. More than once someone suggested: “Are we going down on the ice to push?” The following words from the ‘Rime of the Ancient Mariner’ by English poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge came to mind….

The ice was here, the ice was there, the ice was all around.

It cracked and growled, and roared and howled, like noises in a swound!

The ice did split with a thunder-fit; The helmsman steered us through.

But the miracle happened, and we went into open water again and celebrated by having hot chocolate, rum and cream behind the bridge, as we were sailing along the edge of the ice. Then the next little miracle happened – as we passed some massive and majestic tabular icebergs, the visibility increased, and spells of sunshine lit up the fabulous scenery!

At the evening recap the good news came, that the ice, that just three days ago completely blocked the way to Snow Hill Island, had opened up due to strong winds in the area and now allowed us to go towards our “main goal”. How many miracles can you experience in one day….?

Wow! Wow! Wow! That was the reaction when we woke up…a stunning icy vista spread out before us…the sun sparkling on a frozen sea studded with massive icebergs. You could feel the excitement at breakfast. The navigational challenges of Ortelius yesterday as we picked our way through the seemingly choked Antarctic Sound had clearly been worth it. A penguin-filled wonderland awaited.

At 8 o’clock the orange-painted ‘Quebec’ was the first helicopter to take off for a scout flight over Snow Hill Island, to locate the Emperor penguin colony and establish a landing site the regulation distance of 1km from the colony. With that achieved, the advanced party of expedition staff marked a safe walking route between the two. The fantastic news that everything proceeded as planned was announced around the ship, and ‘Sierra’ was rolled out of the hanger and prepared for flight. The second flight took more expedition staff and safety equipment to the landing site.

Then the third helicopter was rolled out and had the blades fitted. While Chief Pilot Julio warmed up ‘Tango’ and ran his pre-flight checks, the first group was called to the ‘departure lounge’ in the bar. Meanwhile, ‘Quebec’ had returned, and pilot Marcello delighted on-lookers with some low-level circuits of the ship and a landing on an iceberg. From then on it was all action, as in groups of 4 or 5, group after group, we had the fantastic experience of being flown across the ice towards the HLS (Helicopter Landing Site).

The outbound flight time was just under 15 minutes. The first leg took us across the glassy-calm sea, studded with ice of all shapes and sizes. We traversed the southern section of the icecap that covers Snow Hill Island, before descending to the landing site. On arrival we were directed to the basecamp where the Expedition Team had erected a large tent, centralized all the emergency equipment and established a communication link with Ortelius. Assistant Expedition Leader Pippa briefed us about the route to the colony and told us what time we were to return to the HLS for the flight back to the ship.

The occasional Emperor penguin looked on with curiosity as we moved along the flagged trail. A lone Crabeater seal was also seen at a distance. The guides had briefed us not to dwell on the trail and go directly to the colony. We passed between towering icebergs, trapped in the sea-ice on which we walked. Excitement levels reached new heights when our ears picked up the unmistakable melodious calls of adult Emperor penguins, and the final sight of the colony itself was breath-taking. A huge iceberg provided the perfect backdrop!

The beautiful, fluffy grey chicks together with their parents, so well-known from photographs, documentaries and movies endeared all of us. In time, curious adults came out of the colony and approached us to take their own look at these strange visitors that had come to see them. It was a case of - “Who is watching who”? Throughout the day many guests got close-up views of these incredible birds thanks to their endearing curiosity.

The time passed all too quickly, and before we knew it, it was time to make the dramatic journey back to the ship. The flight over the ice and the sea was an exciting and spectacular experience and would be enough on its own to make anyone’s day. The beautiful Emperor Penguins were the icing on the cake! Our pilots left us in complete awe with their skill and precision handling of their helicopters, especially with the deck landings. A helicopter landing on a ship in Antarctica is a unique experience and something that very few people get to experience. Our pilots worked very hard to make the day such a great success, and we are immensely grateful to Julio (Tango), Marcelo (Quebec) and Marcelo (Sierra) for flying the full regulation 8 hours to ensure we all got to the Emperor colony and back to Ortelius safely. Thank you also to the engineers - Mario, Fernando and Cazely - for a great day!

How best do you describe this wonderful Oceanwide Expeditions experience? Our multi-national passengers were asked to pass comment when they returned, here are some….

ONGELOOFLYK – ONBESCHRYFLYK – ONWERKELYK. From our Dutch guests.

NEVVERITELINE – DECHBEROUG – VYJIMECNY. From our Czech guests.

SUGOI – SUBARASHII – SAIKO. From our Japanese guests.

BEEINDRUCKEND – UERWALTIGEND – BERUHREND. From our Austrian guests.

HAPPY – UNBELIEVABLE – AN ACHIEVEMENT. From our Chinese guests [in English].

ALUCINANTE – SIN PALABRAS – INMENSIDAD SILENCIA. From our Spanish guests.

BIKAIN – SORAGARRIA – IKUSGARRIA . From our Basque guests.

BRUTAL – INESQUECVEL – SONHO. From our Portuguese guests.

IMPRESSIONANT – ENOCIONANT – PRECIOS. From our Catalan guests.

AWESOME – BREATH-TAKING – MAGNIFICENT. From our British & American guests.

But the best indicator of the experience was the faces of guests…. huge ear to ear smiles. What a fantastic Oceanwide Expedition Day!!!!!

For some, the day started at dawn. Dawn at this latitude was at about 03:00 - but the colors of sunrise were worth the early start for those brave (crazy?) few. The rest of us normal humans were woken by Sara at the usual time. Everyone started the day full of hope. As forecasted, we had fog in the morning, so everyone took that in their stride. Many were excited to see the fogbow it produced. We remained optimistic as the morning progressed. The sun did come out around us as we proceeded to move the ship a bit farther north in hopes of skirting the persistent fog around Snow Hill Island. The bridge team skillfully navigated Ortelius through a spectacular maze of ice, with dramatic tabular icebergs all around us that were many times bigger than our ship. The scene was awe-inspiringly beautiful, and many of us were lost for words!

Again, a verse from the Rime of the Ancient Mariner published in 1798 seemed very fitting…

“And then there came both mist and snow, and it grew wondrous cold.

And ice mast high came floating by, as green as emerald.”

Alas, that fog never gave up. Long into the morning and then into the afternoon, the fog continued to hang close to the ground over Snow Hill Island. Eventually, it became obvious that as the wind rose, and the sky clouded over, that our hopes of visiting the Emperors again would not be realized. So, Ortelius continued north through Erebus and Terror Gulf, and we set our sights on the coming days.

Gary gave a well-attended talk on his research on viruses in Emperor penguins with extra information about their life story. He gave us the inside story of their lack of mating fidelity, and how they don’t mind bodily contact with other Emperors. At the same time, we were motoring slowly through a magnificent seascape of massive tabular icebergs and deep blue water. We spotted Gentoo penguins, Adelie penguins and a few crabeater seals on an ice flow with Antarctic cormorants and Southern Giant Petrels flying past. So, we alternated between watching Antarctica glide by and learning more about the place.

Later in the day, Jens gave a good rundown on the ‘Race to the Pole’. Packed with history, Jens told us how Amundsen changed his plans for the North Pole once that prize was claimed by Cook and Peary. His telegram to Scott: “Beg to inform going South” sparked indignation with the British team of Scott and his men. Jens gave us some insight on how, despite some internal friction and a false start, Amundsen’s team operated efficiently with dogs and got to the pole, returned heavier than they began, and were in Hobart before Scott reached the pole. He told us how Scott’s upbringing undoubtedly influenced his style of leadership and his meticulous planning. At the same time how, he made a few odd decisions along the way that may have sealed his fate.

We passed into Antarctic Sound as we made our way through more fog, icefloes and icebergs. Keeping us at a relatively slow speed to make our way toward the north. At the evening recap, Sara explained that the only reasonable weather in the area was up in the South Shetland Islands. With a good run this evening we may just be there by breakfast time. Adding to the recap, Gary spoke about the discovery of the Emperor colony at Snow Hill on 20 July 1997. It was the 44th Emperor colony to be added to the list - which is now up to 55 colonies around the continent. He also showed how some colonies can be on ice shelves instead of sea ice and can move from one year to the next.

After Gary, Allan gave us a rundown on the presence of pets on Antarctic expeditions. It was surprising how often they were included with the explorers - dogs, cats, pigs, goats, rabbits, birds. You name it, someone had it. The day ended with a showing of the classic animated movie “Happy Feet” with popcorn in the bar. The movie was introduced by our very own Dr. Gary Miller who was the penguin advisor for this delightful production.

Our morning began with a return to the South Shetland Islands. First order of the day was a Zodiac landing at Yankee Harbor, on the south-west coast of Greenwich Island. This area is steeped in history and surrounded by dramatic glacial scenery. We landed on a long rocky, snow-covered spit, and walked towards a bustling colony of Gentoo penguins. Their constant activity and endearing curiosity provided plenty of entertainment and fantastic photo opportunities. It’s the nesting season, and there was lots of activity. A lot of courtship and copulation were observed, and a few early birds were seen to be sitting on an egg. Marauding skuas were seen stealing a couple of eggs.

A lone Adelie penguin found in the mass of Gentoos caused great excitement. Amidst the wildlife, we also took a moment to appreciate the significance of this site as a popular anchorage for whaling factory ships and a natural safe harbour for early visitors who came to exploit the seal populations. Many of the earliest visitors to this place were American, hence the name Yankee Harbour. Guests explored the moraine-lined shores and enjoyed breathtaking views of the glaciers cascading into the ocean. Occasionally a Humpback whale surfaced outside the bay. Across McFarlane Strait the colossal snow-capped mountains of Livingston Island looked spectacular with a backdrop of dark, stormy skies. We expected the weather to deteriorate, as per the forecast, but it didn’t. Instead, the wind fell away, and it started to brighten up.

During another delicious lunch Ortelius repositioned to nearby Half Moon Island, a crescent-shaped gem known for its rugged beauty. The island’s landscape offered a mix of basalt cliffs and pebbly beaches, framed by ice-strewn waters and the towering peaks of Livingston Island. Here, we encountered a vibrant Chinstrap penguin colony and found a few Weddell seals lounging near the shore. Half Moon still had a deep covering of snow, and the walk towards the Argentine summer station (Cámara Station) was like stepping into a living postcard. The trail followed the rugged shoreline, with the glacier-draped peaks of Livingston Island providing a breathtaking backdrop. Gentle waves lapped against the icy shore, while the cries of Chinstrap penguins echoed across the pristine landscape, adding life to the serene beauty. Distant explosive noises reminded us of the colossal forces at work as immeasurable volumes of ice slowly crawl over age-old rocks towards the sea.

As the sun got lower in the sky, we gathered on the top deck behind the Bridge for a truly unique Antarctic experience: an outdoor barbecue prepared by our lovely hotel team. Bundled up against the chill, we savored a feast of grilled delights while surrounded by icebergs, glaciers and the occasional appearance of curious seabirds. Many danced after dinner, while the sun slowly dipped behind the mountains. It was a moment of celebration, a reminder of the extraordinary adventure we are all sharing in this frozen wilderness.

At around 02.00 while en-route to the Duroch Islands, Ortelius met winds of 50 – 60 knots and heavy ice. These elements combined with a big swell made any operations impossible, so Captain Per and Sara were called to the Bridge. The decision was made to change course and head back to the South Shetland Islands where hopefully some shelter could be found. The destination was Maxwell Bay at the west end of King George Island. This is home to many Antarctic bases belonging to Argentina, South Korea, Uruguay, Russia, Chile and China. Some guests were surprised to receive mobile phone messages, welcoming them to various national mobile networks!

The plan was to do a Zodiac cruise along the coast of Ardley Island to look for Adelie penguins. An early attempt to launch the Zodiacs saw the guides sheltering in the lee of the ship in 40 knots of wind. The consensus was that any operation would be “rough, wet and a borderline positive experience” in those conditions. With the wind forecasted to increase, Sara made the wise decision to abandon the attempt and monitor conditions for a while.

By 09.30, the wind had dropped slightly and was regularly reading below 30 knots. Such is the variability of Antarctic weather! These were workable conditions, if everyone could tolerate the bouncy ride in to sheltered waters and the icy-cold wind. Sara’s decision was to do the cruise in two waves with a reduced capacity of 8 in each boat, and briefed guests accordingly. It worked perfectly. The Zodiac drivers showed their experience by driving directly into the wind, minimizing the amount of spray coming over the boats. With everyone dressed for the conditions, this was a chance to experience the ‘real Antarctica’.

Once in the lee of Ardley Island, conditions were much better. A Humpback whale put in a brief appearance for the first few boats, and then departed. On the island, Gentoo penguins were everywhere! But it was Adelie penguins we had come to find, and the search was on. Eventually, a few Adelies were spotted nesting on a rocky outcrop near the shore. And a few individuals were found in other locations at the water’s edge. The Zodiac drivers had their work cut out negotiating the shallow, rocky waters in the wind and swell. We had the best possible views of the Adelies, and then it was time to return to the ship. With Russia’s Bellingshausen Station nearby, some Zodiac drivers told the story of Antarctica’s first attempted murder which occurred there in 2018, brought on by the pressures of extreme isolation.

After lunch, Ortelius set off to cruise the western part of Maxwell Bay, where we had a fine view of China’s ‘Great Wall Station’. Around 60 personnel are based here during the summer, which is reduced to a crew of just 13 for the winter. Captain Per spun Ortelius around near the station and declared it was time to begin our northwards journey back to Ushuaia. The Drake Passage beckoned, but not right away. First, we had to pass around the south end of Nelson Island and negotiate Nelson Strait. The short time in these relatively sheltered waters provided the opportunity to secure our cabins and seek out Dr. Susan for seasick medication. The sea became rougher, everyone were holding onto something solid. Jens delivered the fascinating story about Shackelton’s amazing feat of leadership and survival against all odds.

Later in the afternoon, there was a question-and-answer session with Captain Per and the DAP helicopter pilots with interesting questions submitted by the guests. This gave a great insight into the life of these men, with questions like…. ‘have you ever had a stowaway’? and ‘who is the most famous person you have flown?’ and ‘what drew you to this line of work’? and ‘how does a helicopter fly’?

At the evening briefing and recap, the plan was simple. ‘We’re going north’. This was followed by a series of informative talks by Pippa on whale song, Bill on paintings of the sea, and Gary on penguin divorce rates. By now we were in 3 to 4 meters of swell, which was the biggest we had encountered on this trip. As the dreaded Drake Passage made its presence felt, a few people skipped dinner and headed off to bed.

The morning started with a wake-up call from Expedition Leader Sara. The ship was gently rolling, which had given most of us a good night’s sleep. After breakfast, many headed for the open decks to take in some fresh air. Caution was required as the decks were a little slippery. The wind blew at around 25 knots, and heavy cloud cover produced a little drizzle and mist. As the day wore on, the wind and visibility both reduced together. A good selection of seabirds was seen from the bridge, including Wandering, Light-mantled Sooty and Black-browed Albatrosses, to name but a few. A good number of whale blows were seen during the morning, with Humpbacks and Sei whales being positively identified.

There were several excellent lectures throughout the day. Jess was first up with a passionate talk about the “Importance of Whales in our Oceans. Then later in the morning, there was a fantastic lecture by Wei about “Underwater Photography”. This was followed by a visit to the lecture room on deck 3 to return our beloved Muck boots and helicopter landing cards. Following another great lunch, there was time to relax and reflect on the extraordinary experiences of this voyage. Some slept, some sorted through photographs, some chatted with new friends. At 16:15 Pippa gave a talk in the bar entitled ‘From Resources to Research – History of the exploitation of Whales’. Then daily recap and dinner followed, bringing the day to an end.

We woke up to find that Ortelius had made excellent progress north through the night. Conditions had improved considerably with a mere 22 knots of wind from the north and a gentle swell. With blue skies and sunshine above, it was a beautiful day in the Drake Passage. The trademark “good morning, good morning, good morning” announcement from Sara informed us that the outside air temperature had risen considerably from 24 hours prior, confirming that we had re-crossed the Antarctic Convergence and returned to a more temperate region. The great continent of South America beckoned, and during breakfast the feint outline of Cape Horn came into view, still some 40 nautical miles away. Land ho!

After breakfast we started to deal with some of those pre-disembarkation tasks, such as settling our shipboard accounts. At 09:15 we were invited to join Sara in the bar for an excellent lecture entitled “Marine Threats”. This drew a sizeable and enthusiastic crowd who were keen to hear Sara talk about a subject that is very close to her heart. As Ortelius steadily closed the gap to Cape Horn, many of us took the opportunity to start packing.

Those who ventured up to the bridge or outer decks found that the ship was in company with the usual bird life for the region - petrels, prions, shearwaters, and of course a variety of albatrosses. Any albatross gliding over the Southern Ocean is a sight to behold, but the masterful and elegant Wandering Albatross with its 3.5 metre wingspan left onlookers completely awestruck. These are true ‘marathon birds’, completely at home riding the wild winds of the deep south. The stronger it blows, the happier they seem to be. The love and respect for these incredible birds is hard to put into words, especially when we consider the mariner’s legend that every albatross carries the soul of a sailor lost at sea. It is truly the bird of good omen for all who work upon the oceans of the World. The editor of this expedition log can’t help but once again draw on the immortal words of English poet Samuel Taylor-Coleridge (1772-1834), from his epic work ‘The Rime of the Ancient Mariner’……

At length did cross an Albatross, through the fog it came.

As if it had been a Christian soul, we hailed it in God’s name.

As the morning progressed, Cape Horn continued to grow on the horizon ahead of the ship. Rather appropriately, the wind increased as we closed in on ‘The Horn’, and the wind speed indicator on the Bridge was soon showing a steady 30 knots with gusts reaching 40. Our Chief Helicopter Engineer Mario called the Chilean Navy Station at Cape Horn by VHF radio, and we were granted permission to approach to within 3 nautical miles of the infamous landmark. By 12:10 we were as close as we could go, and Ortelius made a slow turn to starboard on to an easterly heading. We braved the strong winds and ventured out on deck to admire and photograph the mighty Cape Horn. Captain Per took the opportunity to hold a Cape Horn raffle on the bridge. The three winners all won free drinks on the Captain this evening. Then it was time for lunch.

Ortelius continued to gently pitch and roll her way on towards the more sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel, as preparations for disembarkation quietly progressed below decks. At 14:00 expedition guide Bill Smith gave a very interesting and thought-provoking lecture entitled ‘Paintings of the Sea - The Meaning of the Sea in Paintings’. Then at 16:15 Gary concluded the lecture program with his presentation ‘Over-winter Life on an Australian Antarctic Station.

At 18:15 we gathered in the bar for a farewell drink with Captain Per, and a toast to a successful expedition. This was followed by a viewing of the expedition slideshow produced by expedition guide Jess Owen. This exciting reminder of a memorable journey was later available for all to save to mobile devices, once we had enjoyed our final dinner onboard Ortelius. And what a great final dinner it was! Before dessert was served, Hotel Manager Volodymyr introduced his wonderful, hard-working team. The day closed with the welcome sensation of a motionless deck beneath our feet, as the land on both sides of the Beagle Channel closed in around us. Many went out on deck after dinner to take in the dramatic scenery and enjoy a spectacular sunset. While out on deck watching the sun go down, we saw the Argentinian pilot boat come alongside and deliver the pilot that would guide us up the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia. There was an air of excitement around the ship. The voyage was almost over, and soon we would embark on the next leg of our individual adventures.

We docked in Ushuaia just after 02:30. Ortelius had successfully completed her first Antarctic voyage for the 2024/25 season! We woke up to a bright, calm, clear morning in Ushuaia, with the surrounding mountains bathed in soft early morning light. The crew and Expedition Team handled all the luggage and placed it on the dock, while we enjoyed one last buffet breakfast. At 08:30 it was time for disembarkation. The voyage was over, and it was time to go our separate ways. Fond farewells were exchanged on the dock, as our band of intrepid adventurers dispersed and began the long journey home.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,738 nautical miles.

Southernmost position: 64°29.515’ S / 057°26.175’ W (Snow Hill colony).

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Per Andersson, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, Hotel Manager Volodymyr Cherednychenko and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you.

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team. Standing L-R: Phillip, Allan, Gary, Wei, Jens, Bill. Kneeling L-R: Dr. Susan, Pippa, Sara, Jess.

Thank you from your DAP Helicopters team.

L-R: Marcelo (Pilot - Quebec), Cazely (Engineer), Julio (Chief Pilot - Tango), Mario (Chief Engineer), Marcelo (Pilot - Sierra), Fernando (Engineer).