HDS21a24, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp

Today we finally embarked on M/V Hondius in the world's Southernmost city: Ushuaia, Argentina. The day started beautiful and sunny, and we were ready for an adventure. At 1600, as we began to embark, the wind started to pick up, and it became frigid, but our excitement took over.

As we got on the ship, we were shown to our cabins, and shortly afterward, at 1700, we were called to the lounge for a ship's safety drill. We were shown a safety video and had to don our bright orange lifejackets, which we were then taken out to the lifeboats.

After the safety drill, it was time for the Captain's cocktail; the Expedition Team handed us prosecco and delicious canapes while we were introduced to the trip by the Expedition Leader, Chris. We met the rest of the team, all 22 of them!

We had a delicious buffet following the IAATO briefing; we were exhausted, but it was good to finish the briefing before the notorious Drake Passage!

Today marked our second and last day crossing the Drake Passage, and conditions were improving. The waves had calmed significantly, which was a welcome relief for most of us. Many were able to shake off the seasickness, and we all felt a bit more energized. After breakfast, we gathered in the lecture room for the activity sign-up session. The leaders called us by our assigned animal groups, with the Krill group being called first. Krill is one of Antarctica's most important—and beautiful—species, forming the backbone of the ecosystem here. As a filter species, krill is one of the least impactful creatures in the animal kingdom. With no prey, krill might be one of the friendliest critters on Earth—right up there with the water bear!

Later in the morning, we were called deck-by-deck to collect our rubber boots, ensuring everyone was properly outfitted for our time ashore.

We had our mandatory IAATO Biosecurity check in the Observation Lounge in the afternoon. This is a crucial step to ensure no foreign contaminants are introduced into the fragile Antarctic environment. The biosecurity check ensures everything is clean and free of seeds, dirt, or other materials that could harm the pristine environment. Once our gear was approved, Lucia gave an engaging presentation on the penguins we might encounter on our journey. It was a fascinating preview of the wildlife we'll be seeing, and it made us all the more excited to step onto the icy shores. The day wrapped up with a Daily Recap session, where the Expedition Team reviewed the day's activities and shared plans for tomorrow.

Today marks our second day at sea as we continue our crossing of the infamous Drake Passage. Thankfully, the waves were much calmer than yesterday, providing a smoother ride and relief for everyone onboard. This change in weather was a welcome and refreshing shift. The morning started with a hearty breakfast, followed by an exciting sign-up session for the various activities offered during our Basecamp expedition. We had the opportunity to sign up for mountaineering, kayaking, and camping, all of which are thrilling and we eagerly anticipate. The thought of experiencing Antarctica up close through these adventures is incredibly exciting!

After signing up, we were issued our rubber boots—essential gear for our time on land. These boots are crucial for keeping our feet dry and protected as we explore the icy terrain and embark on land. In the afternoon, we participated in a biosecurity check. We were reminded of the importance of preventing the introduction of invasive species to the pristine environment of Antarctica. Each of us carefully inspected our gear to ensure it met the stringent standards required to maintain the ecological integrity of this untouched region. It was a small but crucial task that brought home the significance of our expedition's environmental responsibility.

Later, we gathered for a fascinating lecture by Lucia, who shared her expertise on the various penguin species found in Antarctica. We learned about their unique adaptations to the extreme cold and the different behaviors that help them thrive in one of the harshest environments on Earth. Lucia's passion for the region and its wildlife was contagious, and it left us all excited for the upcoming opportunity to see these remarkable creatures in their natural habitat.

As the afternoon drew to a close, we had our daily recap and briefing session. Expedition leader Chris took to the floor to share the details for tomorrow's itinerary—our first day in Antarctica! We can expect to land on the continent for the first time, with a mix of exploration and adventure awaiting us.

To end the day, we had our first glimpse of Antarctica itself! As we sailed past the South Shetland Islands, we passed through the English Strait between Robert and Greenwich Islands. The sight of the icy peaks on the horizon was a surreal moment, a reminder that we were on the verge of experiencing something truly extraordinary. We are all filled with anticipation for the coming days. We step onto the Antarctic Peninsula tomorrow, and the adventure begins.

After a bumpy ride across the Drake Passage, we have reached the Antarctica Peninsula. We are finally here! We are so ready to start our expedition. We woke up to a foggy and snowy morning. The plan was to do a zodiac cruise around the wreck of the Governor, a Norwegian oil factory with a tragic history. Since there was a lot of ice around Hondius, the expedition team checked the conditions before our first activity. As suspected, the wreck was surrounded by 1m thick ice, and it was not accessible. Instead, the expedition team took us on a Zodiac cruise between the ice and as a first encounter with the harsh conditions of Antarctica. The temperature was around -7 degrees, with snow. We learned how to get in the Zodiac from Hondius and how to dress properly to keep ourselves dry and warm.

And guess what? We had our very first emperor penguin sighting! He was happily swimming around us. The Expedition Team took us to our first landing in Antarctica in the afternoon! Half of the passengers went to Orne Harbour and used their snowshoes for the first time to climb the hill, while the other half went on a zodiac cruise. On our zodiac cruise, we visited a Gentoo Penguin colony, and we also saw a few Blue eye shags. Seeing the penguins jumping from the rock to the water and trying to get out of the water and onto the rocks was fun! They are good jumpers!

First kayak session of the trip. Our original plan was to paddle at Foyn Harbour; however, due to early season pack ice, getting into the bay or near the Governor wreckage was impossible. So, alas, we found another venue just northeast of Nansen Island. The misty morning soon turned to snow with low visibility but plenty of ice and sublime scenery to enjoy. The group set out to an immediate welcome of porpoising gentoos just meters from the zodiac. Being the first kayak trip of the expedition, we gingerly got into our snow-covered kayaks. We began our journey meandering through drifting brash ice, occasionally negotiating soup-like pancake ice good for working off the chill in the air.

We sat in total silence for a moment and absorbed our surroundings in the cold mist dwarfed by white giants. There was not too much wildlife this time, but it was a memorable experience, with blue smiles all around.

For the mountaineers, the day began with -8°C temperatures and heavy snow, forcing us to abandon our plans to land at Foyn Harbour due to thick ice. We went ahead with a Zodiac cruise, navigating through rough seas and snow, before reaching Cuverville Island, where the ice made landing impossible. In the afternoon, we tackled a technical mountaineering route on Spigot Peak, climbing through wind and snow with crampons and reaching a rocky ledge that offered stunning views of the surrounding glaciers. Despite the challenging conditions, we were rewarded with a sense of accomplishment and the awe-inspiring beauty of the Antarctic landscape.

We awoke to a clear Antarctic morning, with soft sunlight illuminating the glaciers with flat calm weather and plenty of ice around. After breakfast, we layered up and prepared for our landing at the beautiful Neko Harbour.

Disembarking onto the rocky shore, we were immediately greeted by the lively sounds and sights of a bustling Gentoo penguin colony. Hundreds of penguins surrounded us, busily waddling about, engaging in their business. A short hike up the hill surprised us with one of the best views of the voyage so far. There, we also had the chance of an unforgettable Zodiac cruise surrounded by penguins in the icy waters around Neko Harbour. The serenity of floating among towering icebergs was indescribable.

We returned the ship for lunch. In the afternoon, we originally planned to visit Brown Station, but the captain found our path blocked by thick ice—a stark reminder of the ever-shifting Antarctic environment. After a quick reassessment, the Expedition Team decided to head toward Danco Island, hoping to make a landing. However, upon reaching Danco, we found the beaches covered in ice, making a shore landing impossible.

Undeterred, we got ready for Zodiac exploration, embracing the dramatic Antarctic weather that had set in—snow, wind, and a touch of mystery as visibility danced in and out. Our guides navigated through a maze of ice floes, from small chunks to towering, sculpted and gigantic bergs. During the daily recap the Expedition Leader Chris explained the plans for tomorrow. Today was a day of pure exploration, and we’re ready to see what surprises tomorrow holds!

Wow! What a corker for the kayakers! We woke up to towering white peaks of mountains riddled with rippling glaciers spilling into the sea.

This was the second paddle of the trip for us and what a morning it was. Avoiding the great many glacial faces, we took our exploration to the middle of the bay where we paddled between drifting ice to icebergs, and we were awed at their magnificence. As we left open waters we journeyed our way through the maze of brash ice. Nerves clung to some of us, but as we floated through the morning the nerves faded, and our confidence grew in smiles. We enjoyed a moment's silence surrounded by ice giants, a landscape still but forever moving.

The morning started with stormy, chilly weather as we set out for basic mountaineering at Neko Harbour. The conditions were tough, with fierce winds and frigid temperatures, but we pressed on. On the descent, we encountered a longitudinal crevasse, adding an extra layer of challenge as the snow cover was thin and unstable. To navigate safely, we kept the rope tight, no loops, and moved in a long rope team formation. By the afternoon, we had hoped to land at Brown Station, but the weather was too harsh, so we diverted to Danco Island instead. The winds were fierce, making communication difficult, but we carried on with basic mountaineering to reach the summit. The climb was tough, but the reward was a spectacular view, and despite the obstacles, the sense of accomplishment was palpable as we stood atop the peak.

We arrived at Jougla Point early in this morning. We disembarked the Zodiac onto the sea ice, a rare opportunity in the Antarctic! The first sight that greeted us was a large colony of gentoo penguins scattered across the area, going about their morning routines. The calls of the penguins and the occasional flap of wings from a nearby cormorant colony filled the crisp air.

Our team set up the equipment near the landing area. Jougla Point offered stunning views of the surrounding snow-covered peaks and the open waters of the bay. The point's geology, a mix of rock and ice, provides a unique setting that draws wildlife and explorers.

Jougla Point is a hotspot for Antarctic wildlife, and we were lucky to observe several species. The gentoo penguins were particularly active, some waddling towards the sea while others tended to their nests. We also spotted several blue-eyed shags, their dark plumage standing out against the snow. A few Weddell seals were resting on the sea ice, completely unfazed by our presence.

As the sun peeked through the clouds, we captured photographs of the landscape, documenting Jougla Point’s rugged beauty. The contrast of the dark, jagged rocks against the pure white snow creates an unforgettable scene. After packing up, we returned to our boat, leaving Jougla Point behind as the penguins carried on in the background.

We entered the Neumayer Channel after lunch, this narrow passage is flanked by towering, snow-covered peaks on both sides, rising dramatically from the water. The channel itself is calmer than outside, with smaller wavelets flanking us and reflecting the sun off the mountains and glaciers surrounding us. As we approached the exit of the Neumayer Channel, the landscape opened, revealing the vast, open sea ahead. Looking back, the narrow passage seemed like a gateway, framed by the mountains, and filled with icy sculptures. We finished the day with a recap and another fantastic dinner from Ralf and the team.

We set out for technical mountaineering on Jabet Peak, landing on the Port Lockroy side at Jougla Point. The wind was strong, and the swell made the landing a bit tricky, but we managed fine. We changed into mountaineering boots on shore. Once ready, we built a stable platform, and from there, we proceeded with the climb, staying in crampons the entire trip, leaving the snowshoes behind. The weather started overcast, but by the time we reached the pass, the sun had broken through, though the wind remained strong. It was a fantastic day—everyone made it to the highest point safely, and the group was in high spirits, thrilled by the experience and the stunning views.

Camping 06 NOV – False Island / Fournier Bay
Wind: NE-1
Temperature: -5
64°29.6 S 62°54.3 W

Would it finally happen? That was the question everybody was asking themselves, who signed up to go camping tonight. Unfortunately, the weather had not been in our favor for the last nights. Looking outside now, with the sun shedding its final rays for the day over the white covered mountains around us. It was the perfect night for camping. Everybody got super excited when one of the camping guides entered the dining room to quickly grab something. “Are we going out??!!” was the question that rose in all eyes. “We are checking the place out and we will let you know asap”, the answer was. Not much later the announcement came. Camping was on! And what a sight it was!

We all had prepared ourselves and went down to deck 3 to grab a camping kit and board the Zodiacs that were waiting for us to bring us ashore. Saskia welcomed us and sent us up the hill to Valeria and Anthonie, who gave us further instructions and helped us to where and how to dig our ‘palace’. Still overwhelmed by the idea that it was really happening and that we were there, out in the snow. Different types of ‘bedrooms’ were built. From shallow pits to half igloos.

It was a perfect evening when we settled in for the night. On that hillside, overlooking Fournier Bay, on the northeast side of Anvers Island. The light was beautiful. It was one of the most tranquil places to camp in Antarctica.

At 03:45 we were woken up by the guides and were greeted by a pink and orange sunrise. Most of us had a good night. Some slept less but still had an amazing once in a lifetime experience out here. Around 04:30 the Zodiacs appeared again to bring us back to the ship. Bringing the gear up to deck 8, to be hung to dry and enjoying a pastry and some juice in the lounge before taking a short nap on board again. It was a wonderful evening and experience!

In the pre-dawn hours, everything was shrouded in an eerie, deathly silence. At four in the morning, life on the ship’s lower decks began to stir. A crane on the aft of the fourth deck came to life. The crew deftly hooked a Zodiac and lowered it overboard. Two guides jumped in, and with a faint hum, the crane lowered the Zodiac onto the water. Three more Zodiacs followed shortly after.

On the coast, silent and shivering campers, like apparitions, waited for their ride. Once loaded into the Zodiacs, they set off for the ship in silence. They still had a few hours to warm up and get ready for a long, adventure-filled day!

Morning gradually took its hold. The shy sun, before bathing the surroundings in its dazzling light, first painted the peaks of the snow-white mountains with a golden hue. Then, gaining confidence, it rose from the horizon, chasing away the remnants of the night. Day had arrived. Chris Long, our Expedition Leader, standing on the bridge, pressed the intercom button at exactly 6:45 AM, wishing everyone a good morning. He casually mentioned that today’s activities would be exciting, even if things had not gone according to the initial plan. But then again, that is what an expedition is all about—plans are subject to change. After breakfast, a Zodiac cruise was scheduled. The weather was perfect—sunshine, no wind, icebergs everywhere—a true spectacle. We gathered near the Zodiac boarding area, bundled in every warm piece of clothing we had, and began boarding in small groups of ten to explore the surroundings.

Our guides expertly navigated the Zodiacs among the small icebergs, while we gazed in awe at this strange, unfamiliar frozen world. It was a landscape of endless shades of blue, covered in pristine white snow. Sometimes, groups of penguins darted past us, swimming in one direction. We kept a respectful distance, not wanting to disturb them. The sharp-eyed among us spotted tiny orange creatures in the water—the famous Antarctic krill. The luckier ones caught glimpses of the sleek dorsal fin of a minke whale darting among the ice floes. And the most fortunate even managed to witness a humpback whale. It flapped its tail a few times and swam off, leaving us with unforgettable memories.

Time flew by, and soon it was time to return to the ship, where lunch awaited. A brief break did everyone good, allowing those who were chilled to the bone to warm up with hot chocolate and a hearty meal. Meanwhile, the Hondius had approached the Melchior Islands closely. After lunch, we planned to explore the area again by Zodiac, except for the mountaineers among us. They landed on one of the islands, strapped on snowshoes, and set off to conquer the peak. The rest of us resumed our Zodiac adventure, scanning the surroundings once more. Somewhere in the distance, a humpback whale’s tail surfaced again, and we paused, entranced by this magnificent creature. The whale surfaced periodically, sending fountains of spray into the air before diving back down, flaunting its fluke.

We navigated through narrow channels between the islands. Here and there, we spotted gentoo penguins and Antarctic shags. One of the channels was locked in ice, where several Weddell seals had sprawled out. Some were dozing, while others periodically lifted their heads, eyeing us with skeptical curiosity. We didn’t linger, respecting their space, and continued. Before we knew it, it was time to head back to the ship. After the daily recap by Chris, the microphone was handed to William, our hotel manager, who announced that tonight’s dinner would not be in the usual restaurant but out on the open deck. It was BBQ night. We bundled up again and stepped out onto the deck, where benches had already been set up. Music played, and the chefs and officers grilled meat over an open flame, while waiters cheerfully poured complimentary mulled wine into our cups. This unfolded against the breathtaking backdrop of Antarctic nature. After dinner, when the tables were cleared, we, filled with joy and excitement, danced the night away. While some of us swayed to the rhythm of the music, others were preparing for a more serious endeavor: camping. The Zodiacs were launched again, and the shell door opened once more. Campers, wrapped in warm clothing and lugging large bags filled with camping gear, boarded the boats and ventured into the icy unknown. The sun touched the horizon and soon disappeared, casting a final golden glow on the mountain peaks. The air temperature dropped rapidly, but the brave campers were undeterred. Until tomorrow, friends!

On a beautiful morning south of the Melchior Islands, the group kayaked through glassy waters, surrounded by towering glaciers and soft morning light. As they journeyed through the Schollaert Channel, they navigated crackling brash ice and moved in unison, embracing the quiet serenity of the landscape. Upon reaching Kappa Island, the group was greeted by a minke whale breaching close to their kayaks, sparking a renewed sense of adventure. They explored the icy coastline, weaving between massive icebergs, and paused for a moment of silence on the open water. As they returned to the Zodiac, the sudden roar of an iceberg calving reminded them of nature's power and the need for constant awareness in such a wild, unpredictable environment.

In the morning, we landed at Dalman Bay on Anvers Island under perfect conditions—no wind and clear skies, ideal for basic mountaineering. The group was fit, and we adjusted our pick-up point after spotting two Weddell seals on the previous landing, moving to the other side. In the afternoon, we headed to Melchior Island for a shorter, more relaxed climb, perfect for the slower members of the group. The weather remained stunning with Grand Beau conditions, making for a beautiful and successful trip all around.

Camping 07 NOV Melchior Islands
Wind: N 1 Temperature: -3 C
64 18.6 S 063.02.6 W

After the amazing Barbecue, 60 happy campers spent the night in a million-star Hotel! We slept with the sky as our roof. Melchior Islands will be our camping site for the night. We arrived at our landing site, wondering how we would be sleeping on this amazing continent in a Bivi bag. Anthonie, Saskia and Valeria were waiting for us in our “home” for the night. We first started digging some snow pits to have some shelter in case of winds. After that we put our Bivi bag, mattress, and sleeping bag in our pits and made our beds. The sunset (midnight) was amazing! Beautiful colors appeared on the horizon. Some laughing and a lot of pictures after, we fall asleep one by one, and the campers began to fall silent. In the middle of the night a curious group of penguins came to briefly say hi. This experience became more special every minute. At 3:45 in the morning the wakeup call was different, we woke up with an incredibly special pink sunrise and we started to cover all the pits that we made during the night. Yes! We must maintain this amazing place pristine. Our Zodiacs started to arrive at the landing site, between smiles and sleepy faces we wrapped our gear and returned to the ship. Hot drinks and delicious pastries were waiting for us onboard Hondius. This night we will remember forever for life.

The staff took us out again this morning Zodiac cruising in the Melchior Islands. There were hanging glaciers, 100 shades of blue Fur Seals popping their head out of the water, Weddell seals sleeping on the fast ice. We were also lucky enough to encounter two humpback whales - wow!! After an awesome morning on the water we headed back to Hondius and to our big surprise we had an utterly unique sighting of a pod of southern bottlenose whales close to the ship.

With rosy-red faces from this morning’s activities we looked forward to yet another mouthwatering lunch, but got totally sidetracked as prca’s were spotted at the aft of Hondius! We walked quickly to the bow to have a good look at these beautiful mammals traveling through the Gerlache strait. Today was the day to finally visit Cuverville island, three times lucky they say, and where the biggest concentration of gentoo penguins on the Antarctic peninsula is.

The joy of being here was just standing and looking at the colony and taking in the life of the penguins, explained by the Expeditions Guides. For those of us taking the time, we could see how the couples were bowing for each other, making circles, grooming and even copulating and giving each other a bow after. In a few weeks' time they will lay their two eggs as soon as the snow is gone.

Eventually, we needed to head back to the mothership for our daily recap. Chris our EL, kept us excited with the plans for the next day. We learned about the only non-seabird of Antarctica the snowy sheathbill. We also learned the story of the waterbear that lives in Antarctica - most of us did not know about until Chloe shared details of this fascinating creature. This evening, chef Ralf and his galley team made another unique dinner buffet for us with a colorful variety of food and desserts. Meanwhile, outside, the sky was slowly turning into pastel colors as Chris made the call the campers waited for: Camping is on. Today's stories were being shared in the bar over a drink. What better way to end this day in Antarctica.

On their penultimate day of kayaking, the group returned to the calmer waters of the Melchior Islands and paddled toward the shoreline, spotting mountaineers climbing a peak in the distance. As they continued, they suddenly saw a pod of southern bottlenose whales heading their way, their powerful blows sending clouds of spray into the air. The kayakers paused in awe, waiting for the whales to get closer, and Ray captured stunning photos of the rare sight. Later, the Chinese group finally had their chance to paddle, heading to Cuverville Island, where they were surrounded by gentoo penguins. The group marveled at the penguins' playful antics, and after a memorable photo, they returned to the Hondius, excited to share their stories of an unforgettable day.

At 04:15, Edward picked up the campers from Melchior Island before we returned to Dallman Bay for a morning landing. The weather was perfect—clear skies and no wind—making it an ideal day for mountaineering. On both landings, we spotted a Weddell Seal resting on the ice, so we adjusted our pick-up to a new spot in the middle of the bay. After a brief challenge with the big swell and needing a second attempt with Magnus at the helm, we successfully landed and set off for the climb. With good snow cover and a beautiful Grand Beau, the conditions were fantastic. In the afternoon, we headed to Cuverville Island with a small group of seven guests. The summit was easy to reach with no crevasses to navigate, and after a quick ascent and descent in snowshoes—a little steep in places—everyone enjoyed the stunning views and the smooth climb.

Camping 08 NOV – False Island / Fournier Bay
Wind: W-3
Temperature: -5
64°29.6 S 62°54.3 W

Originally the second group to go camping, but now because of cancellations due to weather we were the last group of campers to be taken out. During the day the guides checked out a spot, but due to ice clotting around the landing site, we moved north again and got to camp on False Island in Fournier Bay.

Arriving at the site, we had penguins greeting us on the rock just in front of us. A perimeter was set, in which we could find ourselves a space to dig our ‘bedroom’, while we heard the penguins talking to each other. That alone was something no one had ever experienced. Everybody went to bed with a smile and woke up happy too. Bright and early with a wonderful experience to look back on.

The day began well before dawn with chilly, crisp air at 4:00 AM as we made our way to pick up the last group of campers who had been spending the night ashore. The campers, huddled in their warm layers, were ready to leave behind their temporary shelters in the pristine wilderness of Antarctica. After a smooth pickup, we made our way back to the ship, the silence of the moment only broken by the hum of the Zodiac’s engine as the first light of day began to creep over the horizon.

By 8:00 AM, we were anchored off Ketley Point, our first official landing of the day. This spot is known for its dramatic landscapes, and it did not disappoint. After disembarking, we made our way up a small ridge for panoramic views of the bay. The scene before us was like something out of a dream—crystal-clear waters dotted with colossal icebergs, their turquoise and white hues glowing in the soft morning light. After a short walk, we boarded the Zodiacs once again for a cruise through the bay. As we glided across the water, we spotted a group of Gentoo Penguins waddling along the shore, their black-and-white bodies contrasting beautifully against the snow. Their comical movements as they hopped in and out of the water never failed to bring smiles to everyone’s faces.

After a light lunch, we set course for Orne Islands, home to one of the most delightful penguin colonies in the region. The islands were alive with activity as thousands of Chinstraps waddled about, feeding, preening, and interacting with one another. Once ashore, we had a chance to explore the area and observe these charismatic birds up close. The chinstraps, with their sharp black line under their chins, were a joy to watch as they moved about with their signature clumsiness. Many of them seemed unfazed by our presence, allowing for some fantastic photo opportunities.

In the afternoon, we climbed aboard the Zodiacs once more to cruise around the island’s waters. The scenery was simply spectacular, with jagged cliffs rising steeply from the ocean and small ice floes drifting lazily by. The water shimmered in shades of deep blue and green, creating an almost mystical atmosphere. Our final treat of the day was a breathtaking sunset, with the sun dipping below the horizon, bathing the icy shore in a warm, orange light. The silhouettes of the distant glaciers and towering mountains were illuminated against the fading sky. It was the perfect end to a day filled with adventure, wildlife, and unparalleled beauty.

On their final day, the group paddled to Ketley Point on the west side of Range Island, where they were surrounded by porpoising gentoo penguins and a sunbathing fur seal. They navigated around the snowy shoreline to an iceberg graveyard, pausing for a moment of silence as the sound of breaking ice echoed across the landscape. Later, they ventured to the Orne Islands, battling strong offshore winds before finding shelter on the calmer north side, where they spotted sleeping Weddell seals and busy penguins. After exploring the area and capturing memories, they made their way back to the Hondius, completing their incredible Antarctic kayaking adventure.

In the morning, we landed at Ketley Point with Martijn and Gilbert guiding a group of eight guests for basic mountaineering. Guiding was tricky on the mountain so for safety reasons the mountain guides decided to return. The weather was overcast, and the conditions were challenging. In the afternoon, we moved on to Georges Point for a much more successful trip. Edward and Andy guided a smaller group of five guests, and the weather was perfect—clear skies and a well-filled glacier made for ideal climbing conditions. It turned out to be a perfect last trip, with the group enjoying a smooth and rewarding climb, ending the day on a high note.

The first adventurers of the day ascended to deck eight at 5:50am to witness the spectacle of entry into Neptune Bellows. Here we were met by a snow squall and fog which masked the caldera’s narrow approach of only 230 meters. What makes the approach even more precarious is Ravn Rock which lies 2.5 meters below the water midway between the steep cliffs.

Whaler’s Bay, Deception Island was first utilized as a whaling station by the Norwegians from 1911 until its closing in 1931 because of the slump in whale oil prices. In 1944 a British base was established by the Royal Navy utilizing three of the abandoned whaling station buildings. In 1945 the base was handed to the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey, predecessor of the British Antarctic Survey and commenced its role as a scientific research station.

Much of the abandoned base remains for visitors to explore as we did today. The calm waters of the bay were perceptible by all including the Gentoo penguins strolling about the shore and the cape petrels, kelp gulls and skuas patrolling the skies. Neptune’s Window was about a thirty-minute walk from our Zodiac landing zone and had a spectacular view of both the ocean and caldera. We got to jump on the Zodiac to explore the other side of the bellows. At the end we all braved the icy waters of the South Atlantic and earned our right as official Polar Plungers!

In the afternoon, after a three-hour voyage up the Antarctic Peninsula, we landed at Half Moon Bay, a South Shetland Islands. With beautiful blue skies and full sun, this stop was nothing short of spectacular. This island was teaming with life including chinstrap penguins frolicking at our landing zone and south polar skuas, Arctic terns, petrels, sheathbills and imperial shags flying about. Thankfully Hondius was but minutes away by Zodiac. This visit completed our adventure on the Peninsula and we will now head back to Ushuaia across the Drake Passage.

At 9:15 AM, Magnus delivered a captivating lecture on whales, exploring their behaviors and habitats, and deepening our understanding of these magnificent marine creatures.

The next activity commenced at 10:45 AM, led by Juan, who provided an informative session for photography enthusiasts on enhancing and editing their photos. His tips inspired us to better process and showcase our travel photographs, igniting our creative spirits. At noon, we began collecting our rubber boots in preparation for the next voyage.

The afternoon festivities continued. At 1:45 PM, Chole presented a lecture on plankton, explaining the significance and diversity of these tiny organisms within the ecosystem, which enriched our understanding of marine ecology. We really love her passion! Then, at 4:15 PM, Meike enlightened us about the majestic Albatross, sharing insights into its habits and migration patterns, leaving us in awe of nature's wonders. As evening approached, at 6:15 PM, the expedition leader Chris outlined the itinerary for the following day, ensuring everyone was well-informed about the upcoming activities. The expedition team members also shared knowledge from the journey, deepening our understanding of this incredible experience.

Dinner was served at 7:00 PM, where we indulged in a plated dinner, savoring a variety of delectable dishes. After our meal, we participated in an engaging quiz hosted by the expedition team in the observation lounge on the fifth floor. This lively event fostered camaraderie and encouraged enthusiastic participation among all attendees. The day's events were rich and varied, enhancing our knowledge while fostering deeper friendships among us. We concluded this fulfilling day perfectly, filled with countless wonderful memories.

Again, we woke up to a gentle Drake Passage and went for breakfast at 0800. By the time we finished, the captain managed to sail Hondius as close as 3 miles to the rocks of Cape Horn. Fog was, unfortunately, blocking our view, but in a few cases, we could see some outlines of the coastline and waves crashing.

Cape Horn is the southernmost headland of the Chilean archipelago, Tierra del Fuego, located on tiny Hornos Island. It is the northern boundary of the Drake Passage. Cape Horn was identified by sailors and first rounded in 1616 by the Dutchmen Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire, who named it Kaap Hoorn after the city of Hoorn in the Netherlands. The waters around Cape Horn, where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet, are particularly hazardous, because of fierce winds, large waves, extreme currents, and icebergs. At 0915 Charlotte enthusiastically shared her knowledge and some amazing images about all her blubbery friends, the seals. Shortly after, Sasha took the stage to tell us his personal story, how he ended up working and living in Antarctica. The smooth waves made it easy for us, to be on the outside decks once more, and enjoy the seabirds, like the black-browed albatross and even some dusky dolphins that followed the ship. Late afternoon, most of us gathered to listen to Valeria and her story about Argentinian mate. In between, there was enough time to pay our bills, chill in the lounge and reminisce about the amazing memories we made the last 12 days of this incredible voyage.

We joined the captain and the Expedition Team at 1800 in the Observation Lounge for Captain’s cocktails, plans of disembarkation and the premiere of our voyage slideshow compiled by Juan. Seeing and experiencing it all over again, was an incredible end to our trip. Lastly, we had another delicious dinner. Just before dessert, all the crew from the dining room, kitchen, bar, housekeeping, laundry and reception were introduced by the Hotel manager. A wonderful way to thank them and say goodbye to this amazing crew.

Today is the day we disembark our dear Hondius, we heard the final ‘Good morning, good morning, good morning’ from our Expedition Leader Chris. We were sad to say goodbye to all the crew and Expedition Staff onboard, but we are so happy for such an incredible voyage, we will be sure to be back for next time! 😊