OTL12-24, trip log, East Greenland, Scoresby Sund - Aurora Borealis, Including Long Hikes

Finally, the day of our embarkation had come at last. After a morning spent traveling across the beautiful landscape of Northwestern Iceland, we arrived in the early afternoon at the pier of Akureyri, the second biggest city in Iceland.

Warmly welcomed by the expedition team, who helped to carry our luggage on board; we waited at the pier and got acquainted with some other passengers and taken the first photos of our new ‘home’ for the next week. After a short time, during which some of us took a swift look around Akureyri, we made our way up the gangway.

We were warmly welcomed by all the crew and staff who assisted us in finding our cabins. With some time left, we explored the ship and get our bearings and grab a tea or coffee in the bar. Once everyone was onboard, it was time for the mandatory safety video, follow by the drill, during which we learned the process for finding our lifeboats and how to use our lifejackets.

Afterwards, we quickly headed back to the bar for the Captain’s Cocktail and the kind welcoming words of Expedition Leader Florence and Assistant Hotel Manager Karolina. Whilst sailing away from Akureyri’s pier, it was time for our first evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection provided by Chef Heinz and his galley team served by our friendly dining room staff. After dinner, we gathered again for the mandatory AECO and Zodiac Operations briefing, even though a few of us were absent from the room due to the first effects of motion sickness.

Sooner or later we had to face the reality of the Denmark strait, this 250 nautical miles wide natural channel that separates Iceland from Greenland, our long lasting destination for this incredible voyage. Despite the uneasy feeling of several guests, our destination would make every roll and pitch worthwhile!

After a long day of travel for most of us, it was time for bed to get some rest. However, within few hours, we were awaken by the first Northern Lights sighting! A few nice strips of pale green lines in the sky added some last-minute excitement to an already action-packed first day!

We woke this morning to a wake-up call from Florence, our Expedition Leader. She informed us that the weather was sunny and almost wind free. The temperature, however, was a mere 1.5 centigrade. There was a strong wind blowing in from the north, which at times made the deck feel very nice and fresh.

It was a beautiful start to our first full day on board Ortelius. Following a hearty breakfast over which discussion focused on either the Northern Lights from the previous night or the rolling of the ship, we had the chance to meet our expedition team.

Each member of the team introduced themselves. We had a real mixture of specialties and interests in our expedition team – no doubt their knowledge and enthusiasm would soon be put to the test.

Following these introductions, we had our last mandatory briefing, after which followed some shorter briefings about hiking and kayaking. In between, we had the opportunity to get out on deck for some fresh air and the chance to see the birds flying around the ship. Swooping and soaring alongside the ship were northern fulmar, kittiwakes, common guillemot and a few glaucus gulls.

Before we knew it, it was time for lunch, the first of many fantastic lunches on board.

After we finished eating, Marco, one of our guides, gave a fascinating introduction to Greenland. He really whetted our appetites for the trip ahead, focusing on the topography, the ice, the wildlife and the plants. As Marco finished, finally our first glimpse of land came into view, the beautiful snow-covered mountains of Greenland.

We were then presented with our muck boots for the trip and those kayaking tomorrow were given a further briefing and some of the equipment that we would need.

While all this was happening, the sun was still shining and we were getting ever closer to our destination, the beautiful Scoresby Sund in Greenland. Despite the blustery wind, many of us spent some time out on deck, watching as we approached Kap Brewster. Soon enough, the first icebergs flashed into view, and we passed close by several as we rounded Kap Brewster and entered the mouth of Scoresby Sund. We were truly in the Arctic now!

After another delicious meal, we had time to enjoy the sunset and waited for darkness to fall to see if the Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis would return.

Just after midnight, the Aurora did indeed grace us once again with its majestic presence and wowed the hardy ones that had decided to stay up, long after a beautiful sunset.

Even though Florence hadn’t given us a wake-up call yet, there were many of us on deck around 06:45 when the sun rose at the eastern entrance to Øfjord. It lit up the spiky peaks of Renland and the mountains of the Bjørneøer (Bear Islands). This early morning Alpenglow created a beautiful pink glow on the few tiny clouds, which disappeared later and transformed the sky into a fantastic blue for the entire day. At 07:30, we enjoyed our breakfast and the ‘full day hikers’ could make their own packed lunch, as they would be away from the ship for the entire day. At 09:00, the full day hikers were ready at the gangway to be shuttled to shore first, where Marco, Brian and Saskia were waiting to take them out on an adventure in Milne Land.

After a briefing about the terrain, length, and altitude we took off in a leisurely pace for our first full day hike. Everybody was excited, but also curious as to what to expect, as it was our first landing here in beautiful Greenland.

Our hike presented us with amazing views over the Bjørneøer (Bear Islands) and the bay below with huge icebergs drifting silently. The views began where we started off from this morning at the northeast tip of Milne Land, and only got better as we climbed. It was challenging at some places and halfway the group split into two. One of them reached the top at around 500 meters above sea-level with Marco and Saskia. We had amazing views over Øfjord, and the 1977-meter grand peak of granite called Grundtvigskirken, after the church in Copenhagen. The view into the fjord was spectacular, with a flotilla of icebergs appearing tiny against the immense peaks rising on each side. We even spotted Rembrandt van Rijn sailing far below – she looked like a child’s toy!

Meanwhile, the rest of us enjoyed hikes in the same area as the full-day-hikers but stayed around the beach area or went up to the lower hills and slopes where the water in little ponds reflected the peak of Grundstvigskirken beautifully. The last fluffy balls of Arctic cotton grass waving in the wind and the beautiful brown leaves of the dwarf birches and the bright red of the mountain bear berry added splashes of color and fantastic contrast to the rock, ice and snow around us. Just a stunning landing.

Over lunch, the ship was repositioned within the Bjørneøer (Bear Islands), or the Greenlandic name of Nannut Qeqertaat. This group of islands was named by Carl Ryder during his East Greenland Expedition in 1891–92. They shot a bear on 4 September 1891, while surveying the islands, which is where the name originates from. Many of the islands were not given a name, but in 1934 they were numbered I to XI following the first survey carried out by Eduard Wenk and Helge Backlund. Members of the 1934 surveying group climbed parts of the spectacular ridges of islands VI and IX (Första Nålbrevet and Sista Nålbrevet).

In the afternoon we went out for several different hikes exploring the island called Taseertit. Some of us saw the cute white fluffy Arctic hares from up close and we were lucky enough to spot some Muskoxen from a distance. The sun was still with us which made it extremely pleasant to hike and enjoy the amazing views of this incredibly picturesque area of Scoresby Sund. After another successful day we returned to the ship and went for a lovely dinner made by Chef Heinz and his kitchen team.

Later in the evening, we sailed briefly into Skillgbugt, a small fjord close by. As we sailed into the fjord, facing the glacier several miles away, the light was fantastic, glinting off of the mountain peaks and fading into a perfect, chilly evening. Some of us stood on the foredeck as the ship made it’s way deep into the fjord, breaking the rapidly freezing layer of ice on the water below. Ahead, a single seal was spotted, before it vanished into the water. We spent an hour or so navigating this small fjord – for those of us who remained on deck, it was a magical experience. Some of us were still up in the bar around 10:30 when we heard Florence’s voice crackle over the speaker. The Northern Lights were here again! And what a different spectacle again than last night. Purple, bluish, yellow, and off course the most seen color, green. We were so lucky to witness them again with its wavy streaks, carpeting the sky from horizon to horizon. The cherry on the cake of already a stunning day!

KAYAK

Today we kayaked around this beautiful landscape. We had perfect weather conditions in the morning, and a refreshingly cold breeze in the afternoon on the islands.

We didn’t experience any katabatic winds, this area is known by the Innuits as “Ïkaasakajik”(Bad Fjord) because of these fierce gusts that often thunder through Øfjord. The Bjørneøer archipelago (bear islands) guard the entrance to the magnificent Øfjord. The morning highlights were the massive icebergs grounded close to the shore line and the sun light warming up during our paddling session.

In the afternoon session, we had the chance to see from very close a group of four Muskoxen, eating vegetation and resting while digesting, peacefully. Something we will remember forever. When we began to head back to the ship, we had another precious encounter with a beautiful Arctic fox, resplendent in its winter white fur. Amazing!

As the first light of dawn filtered through our cabin windows, we rose from our beds and gazed outside at the breathtaking sight before us: Rødepynten, the majestic red mountain, standing proudly above the fjord. The sun, still low on the horizon, sent luscious rays across the landscape, slowly illuminating the wilderness in hues of gold and crimson.

By 08:00, the all-day hikers were already gathering on the ship's deck, eager for a day of exploration. The chill in the air was invigorating, and the anticipation of what lay ahead buzzed between them. Beth, Martin, Charlotte, and Marco, affectionately known as "the Italian Stallion," greeted them onshore.

The hikers began their ascent up the red mountain. The resilient and sparse tundra stretched wide beneath their boots. As they climbed higher, the landscape opened up before them, revealing a stunning plateau bathed in morning light. From there, the lakes below gleamed with electric blue intensity, their waters contrasting vividly with the rust-colored mountains that surrounded them.

Suddenly, a herd of musk oxen appeared in the distance, its thick fur rippling in the wind, its heavy form perfectly at home in this wild, untamed place. The hikers stood in awe, watching as these ancient creatures moved with quiet grace. Nearby, an Arctic hare, small and swift, darted across the tundra, disappearing into the rocky terrain.

Back on the ship, those who hadn't set out on foot were equally captivated by the beauty of Rødepynten. They embarked on a Zodiac cruise, weaving their way through the icebergs that dotted the fjord. The water was still, like a mirror, reflecting the towering icebergs and the mountains beyond in perfect clarity. They, too, caught glimpses of musk ox in the distance, a testament to the wild abundance of this frozen world.

The long hikers made their way across the neck of C. Hofmann Halve, traversing the beautiful tundra landscape covered in birch, willow, cottongrass, reindeer lichen, bearberries, and a plethora of other plants, mosses, and lichens. More musk oxen were spotted in the far distance, high on the rising slopes of the mountains before other small groups could be seen in the higher areas. Throughout the hike, which lasted the entire day, the group spotted upwards of 60 musk oxen, getting some fantastic photographs of the beautiful landscapes and these majestic Arctic inhabitants. Arctic hares were also spotted, along with a number of small birds, feeding around one of the mirror-perfect lakes.

As the afternoon waned, three more walks were offered, each leading to yet another awe-inspiring view. Some of the hikers were fortunate enough to spot more musk Oxen grazing in the distance, while others marveled at the serenity of the landscape, untouched and timeless. By the end of the day, the ship was filled with contentment. The smell of freshly baked cookies drifted through the halls as Flo and the team gathered everyone to discuss the plans for tomorrow's adventures. But, before the day was out, we enjoyed a BBQ on the helideck! We toasted the day's adventures with some great food, company, and drinks, swapped stories, and created memories! Much later, the Northern Lights made yet another appearance, keeping many of us awake late into the night as the sky above Rypefjord shimmered beautifully.

KAYAK

We spent the day in the beautiful Rypefjord. The weather conditions were so great! There were no winds and no waves; we saw some beautiful icebergs in the area. Some of them rolled right in front of us, providing fantastic views of the white and blue coloration.

We saw a juvenile glaucus gull flying over us and a pack of Musk oxen lying on top of a quiet bay, and the shallow shoreline of the afternoon session provided a glimpse of some footprints covered by the water of the high tide.

Peaceful conditions. A great day for the kayakers!

After an exhausting previous day and the fun of the BBQ the night before, Florence woke us up again for another beautiful day in our Arctic paradise. We landed in Harefjord, near a glacial front, and in several groups with varying speeds and distances, we hiked up the moraine for a fantastic view over the glacier. From this glacier it is only 20 km land inwards to the Greenlandic Inlandis, the majestic second largest icecap of the world, the Greenland Icecap. On our way up we saw Muskoxen again and some of us also saw some Rock Ptarmigan.

This was a brilliantly varied landscape, with the tundra's colors mixed with the rock's stark grey and red all around. Below, the ice-white of the glacier was mixed with dark stains of rock and debris scraped from the mountainside further up, while the moraine was full of colorful plant life and rock scattered across its grey expanse. Below, the water was crystal clear and blue, patrolled by icebergs of various sizes.

We all had a fantastic morning hiking,, enjoying the stunning landscape views of Harefjord. Once back at the landing site, it was time for a swim - the famous Polar Plunge! The sea was beginning to freeze over, and as we were close to the glacial front where the meltwater entered the sea, the water was a bit chilly. We cheered the Polar Plungers as they dashed into the water and, for most, dashed quickly out again! We had a wonderful lunch after the brave swimmers returned to the ship.

In the afternoon, we ship-cruised Øfjord; the billion-year-old rock formations that surrounded the ship filled us with awe. The staff served hot chocolate with rum on deck, which made the afternoon even more pleasant. Throughout the rest of the day, the beauty of Øfjord was on full display, complete with huge icebergs and the colors of the setting sun on the jagged rock all around. Either side, glaciers spilled into the fjord, providing tantalizing glimpses into an icy world beyond what we could see.

During the recap and briefing, Florence explained the changed plans for tomorrow (polar bears!), Tom explained the geology that we could see as we sailed through Øfjord and the rest of Scoresby Sound. Saskia gave a marvelous presentation about our furry Muskox friends we had seen the past few days, and Brian introduced us to the world of tracking.

Before and after dinner, we enjoyed the fantastic views of Øfjord and the magical atmosphere the setting sun gave this special place. As we neared the mouth of Øfjord and turned out past the Bear Islands, the Northern Lights made yet another appearance!

A wonderful day with the best weather. Brash ice, moving around, two big groups of kayakers paddling immersed in a fantastic scenario.

Kayaking

Today's kayakers had a fantastic day, with perfect weather for kayaking. Plenty of brash ice was on display, with lots of movement on the water! Two groups of kayakers were able to paddle up to the glacier front, getting a glimpse, from a safe distance, of the incredible scale of the ice in these regions.

Kayaking in the Arctic is truly an unforgettable experience!

What a day it has been! We woke up to the sunrise at Vikingebugt, a stunning bay in Greenland known for its rugged beauty, complete with a very active glacier that stretched impressively at the head of the fjord. As we enjoyed the morning, we spotted a polar bear casually strolling along the beach, heading up the hill away from the majestic glacier front. The expedition team identified her as a female, and we gave her plenty of space, taking in the sight of this incredible creature from a safe distance. The call went out, and very quickly, even before breakfast, the deck and bridge were full of early risers keen to get a view of the polar bear!

Our luck held, and before long, we spotted another two polar bears, one emerging from the water at the shoreline and another further up on the mountainside. It was fantastic to see these giants of the Arctic in their natural habitat, waiting for the return of the sea ice.

After the bears disappeared from view, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast before heading out to explore the frozen sea by Zodiac. The glacier's towering face was even more impressive up close, and the sea ice came alive with the sounds of popping as it shifted beneath us. We were fortunate enough to witness two icebergs rolling in the water, a reminder of nature's raw power in the brilliant morning sun.

Once we navigated out of the ice, we crossed the fjord to marvel at the basaltic columns that lined the shore. These formations are a testament to Greenland's ancient volcanic history, with their striking geometric shapes and rich geological significance. The basalt here was formed around 55 to 58 million years ago, adding to the dramatic landscape of Vikingebugt. The entire fjord was packed with icebergs, brash ice, growlers, and bergy bits. Some larger icebergs had drifted further out to sea, creating an impressive landscape of jumbled ice and water.

On our way back, we had another thrilling encounter: watching another polar bear navigate the cliffs with surprising agility. Polar bears are classified as marine mammals due to their excellent swimming skills, and seeing them in their natural habitat was a truly unforgettable experience.

After returning to the ship for lunch and a coffee break, we ventured out for an afternoon stroll at a headland called Helgenæs. With the expedition team setting up a perimeter for safety, we had the chance to explore the rocky terrain of Greenland on our own. Some of us walked along the cliffs, others took in the silence, while a few lucky explorers spotted a Ptarmigan perched on the basalt columns. Even here, on a wild, exposed headland, tundra plants covered much of the landscape, and in several places, small boggy areas were carpeted in moss and small streams.

The day flew by; before we knew it, it was time for a plated dinner onboard. To cap off this extraordinary day, Ko de Korte, our resident biologist and retired Arctic explorer, shared his personal story of spending 13 months in Spitsbergen researching polar bears in 1968-69. His talk captivated guests, who, until this point, had not known that such an esteemed polar figure was in their midst. Hearing about his experiences in such a remote and harsh environment was the perfect end to an already incredible day. What an inspirational and fascinating story.

Kayaking

Before setting out to kayak, we ventured by Zodiac to see a polar bear moving toward the glacier. After that, we moved away to a safe area to start our operation. We started close to a waterfall, a far distance from the ship and the glacier front. We quickly understood that the scale of this Fjord was much bigger than we thought.

It was a beautiful area, with high-rising cliffs dusted with snow and covered in tundra colors. The place was full of growlers and icebergs. We spent the first 15 minutes paddling around the safety Zodiac, and after that, we went through the ice to the waterfall. The freshwater came from the top of the mountains, the view was spectacular, and we enjoyed staying close to the shoreline, listening to the water's noises. Paddling back and forth around the ice that was drifting around us. It was the best way to close the last kayak sessions of the season in one of the most beautiful places in the Scoresby Sund.

The day began with a shift in weather. The wind picked up, and the once-clear sky turned cloudy, casting a more dramatic, Arctic atmosphere over our journey. It felt like the Arctic had shown us its true face, colder and more mysterious than before. Our morning destination was Flakkerhuk, and despite the conditions, excitement buzzed through the group.

For the most courageous among us, the challenge was a long hike along the coast of Flakkerhuk, stretching to the southern tip of Jameson Land. The landscape was unlike anything we had seen so far—much flatter, with expansive beaches that seemed to stretch on forever. It starkly contrasted to the steep cliffs and jagged icebergs of the past days, but no less captivating, with great sightings of Arctic hares, foxes, and musk oxen. The wide, open spaces gave a sense of isolation, a reminder of the vastness of Greenland’s wilderness. On the opposite side of the fjord, the mountains of Volquart Boon Kyst loomed up, icy, snow-laden, and capped by cloud and swirling mists. It was a fantastic contrast to the landscape we were traversing, with a low river valley set behind a steep bank leading up from the beach.

Along the way, we spotted many musk ox skulls and the evidence of hunting both by the local Inuit and the local fauna. This was a stark environment, yet many areas were full of beauty. Along the beach, rocks, stones, and pebbles of every color were laid out, washed smooth by the water, while swathes of cottongrass and tundra plants added bursts of color against the drab sky. Ko de Korte had spent several seasons in this area, studying skuas. He explained his time here to several of us as we walked, describing how the local Inuit aided him in his isolation.

Unfortunately, the weather forced us to cancel the shorter hike planned around the lagoon, where the long hikers had planned to meet up with the ship, and a shore walk was planned. We had also hoped to spot some wildlife. Instead, those of us who remained onboard were treated to a fascinating morning of lectures. Regis talked about his fieldwork in Greenland National Park, sharing stories and research from one of Earth's most remote and untouched ecosystems. Meanwhile, Rao gave a detailed lecture on sea ice, explaining its crucial role in the Arctic environment and how it influences global climate patterns. The talks offered a deeper understanding of the incredible landscapes we traveled through, filling the time with knowledge as the wind howled outside. Our thoughts went out to the long hikers, who, we thought, would be blown back to the ship!

In the afternoon, we arrived in Ittoqqortoormiit, the main town in Scoresby Sund. As we neared the settlement, the first snow of the trip began to fall, a delicate but unmistakable sign that summer had ended and the Arctic winter was approaching. Ittoqqortoormiit, with its brightly painted homes nestled against the stark, rocky landscape, seemed both vibrant and isolated in this remote corner of Greenland. Home to around 350 people, Ittoqqortoormiit is one of the most remote settlements on Earth, where hunting and fishing are central to daily life. It’s also one of the few places where polar bear and musk ox hunting is still practiced, continuing a way of life that has persisted for generations.

Walking through the town snowflakes gently swirling around us, we felt the quiet transition of seasons. The town was founded in 1925 by Danish explorers and Inuit settlers, and today, it stands as a testament to the resilience and adaptability required to live in the Arctic. The light snow added a magical touch to the visit, emphasizing the isolation and beauty of this far-flung outpost. Some of us visited the church, where we learned more about the settlement's history, and tried musk ox. Out in the bay, a small sailing ship was anchored, creating a great contrast between the robust and magnificent Ortelius and a glimpse of the past in such a remote place.

After our visit, we returned to the ship, stretching our legs before departing Greenland and setting sail for Iceland, our final destination. As the ship pulled away, the snow continued to fall softly, a reminder of the Arctic’s relentless grip. Though we were leaving, the experience of walking through Greenland’s wild landscapes, encountering its wildlife, and visiting its remote communities would stay with us long after the journey ended. Despite the cold weather that night, many of us remained on deck for a final glimpse of Greenland, watching as Kap Brewster faded into the mist, snow, and fog, and the last of the icebergs merged into whiteness.

Overnight, Ortelius had made good progress in the open waters of the Denmark Strait, the body of water that separates East Greenland from Iceland. A moderate wind coming from North-Northeast was gently accompany us towards our journey back to Akureyri in Northern Iceland. Fortunately swell and waves were not so terrible and the gentle rolling of the night carried on during the morning whilst the bearing pointed south.

A lazy morning without operations brought few of us to the restaurant for breakfast, followed by Martin’s lecture about Barnacle Geese, amongst the species of bird we had seen in Scoresby Sund during our voyage. This was fascinating, as it showed the process of ringing birds, and also how migratory patterns are changing over time. Around mid morning a Humpback whale was sighted swimming in the opposite direction of the ship only less than a hundred meters away.

Lunch was served with much more excitement than breakfast and soon we found the ship’s bow located in front of Kolbeinsey rock. A basalt landform, devoid of vegetation, Kolbeinsey is located on the mid-Atlantic ridge and is subject to rapid wave erosion and is expected to disappear in the near future. Erosion rate data from 1994 suggested that this would happen around mid century. Captain Per skillfully maneuvered the ship to bring us as close as possible to this special geomorphological feature of the Denmark Strait.

We carried on south, enjoying Charlotte’s lecture about whales, particularly humpback whales, their behavior, migration patterns and main features. After the lecture on the port side the island of Grimsey appeared in the mist. The island is famous for its puffin colony and because the Arctic Circle runs through the island, which attracts many visitors, as it is the only accessible location in Iceland that far north. However, due to long-term oscillations in the Earth's axis, the Arctic Circle is shifting northward by about 15 meters per year. As of 2020, the place where the line crosses the island is close to the northern tip and by the middle of the 21st century it will pass north of Grimsey altogether.

Eventually it was time for Captain’s farewell cocktail. All the excitement and magnificent sightings of the trip were well displayed by Gabi’s slideshow to increase even further our incredible waters in the longest and deepest of the fjord system of the planet. Meanwhile the ship had slowly reached the protected waters of Eyjafjörður and dinner was served in the restaurant, buzzing with the sounds of new friendships, the sharing of memories, and the excitement of the past week. We also thanked the entire galley and hotel team, who were applauded as they made their way through the dining room. Soon, it was time to meet once again in the bar for sharing one last glass (or several more). But, before the night was up, the Northern Lights gave us one final display as we cruised into the fjord towards Akureyri. What a fantastic end to a fantastic week!

After a quiet night at anchor and feeling blessed for another chance to witness some spectacular Northern lights dimmed by the full moon of last night; MV Ortelius heaved to and sailed into the port of Akureyri.

The time to say goodbye had come, but the memories we have made will live with us forever. We were asked to put our luggage outside our cabins at 07:30, ready for the staff and crew to take down the gangway, while we enjoyed our last breakfast on board. After saying goodbye to the dining room crew, we walked down the gangway onto the pier. Then it was time to say farewell to the expedition team before we boarded the buses and left for our onward travel.

Thank you all for such a memorable voyage, for your company, good humour and enthusiasm. We hope to see you again in the future, wherever that might be!

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Per Andersson, Expedition Leader Florence Kuijper, Hotel Manager Oleksandr Lyebyedyev and all the crew and expedition staff, it has been a pleasure travelling with you! We look forward to seeing you again on one of our ships for another adventure