PLA11-24, trip log, Spitsbergen - Northeast Greenland - Aurora Borealis, Including Long Hikes

It was a sunny day in Longyearbyen as we wandered down to the pier and began boarding MV Plancius. This would be our home for the next fourteen days and we were happy to arrive after many hours of travelling for some. Around forty passengers had already been on a trip around Svalbard with Plancius, so they had been out exploring Longyearbyen and the surrounding area. They knew exactly what to expect on their return.

We met some of the expedition team on the gangway and were shown to our cabins. We then took part in a mandatory safety briefing and drill. We then had time to relax and watch the scenery as we sailed away before being invited to cocktails with the Captain. We enjoyed a nice buffet dinner before collecting our muck boots. We went to bed feeling excited about the journey ahead and dreaming of the wildlife and landscapes we might see.

If somebody could hand pick the perfect ‘1-day’ visit to Svalbard, that day would look a lot like today. We sailed north from Longyearbyen, west from Prins Karls Forland, and were at the Northwest tip of the archipelago by early morning. We crossed the Sørgattet Northeast bound between Danskeøya and Reuschalvø and enjoyed beautiful glaciated landscapes with steep mountains.

Our first destination for the morning was Fuglefjorden (Bird Fjord), named after the Latin genera of birds that are used to name the tidal and non-tidal glaciers terminating in this fjord: Uriabreen, Lestribreen, Larusbreen, Rissabreen, Sternabreen and Tringabreen. We launched our Zodiacs and headed straight for a group of shallow islands east of Fugløya. It was clear now why these fjords and glaciers were named after birds. These islands provide shelter for vast numbers of birds, and many species were seen in numbers, including arctic terns, barnacle geese, black guillemots, glaucus gulls, kittiwakes, and purple sandpipers.

The location was difficult for Zodiacs and drivers; the area was full of shallow rocks, and the glacial water full of sediments made it impossible to see what was underneath and close to the coast. Many ended up feeling the nudge of a rock under the hull or even hitting a propeller. This really is an expedition, and we are going to places we could not access, if not with specialized gear and guides. As we roamed the fjord from the water, we saw a harbor seal and a bearded seal. With all of this ‘food’ around, bird chicks, eggs, and seals, the king of the Arctic did not take long to make an appearance.

Over a rocky Islet, high up, a beautiful polar bear came up, walking gently, driven perhaps by curiosity to find out what the new buzzing noise in the fjord was. He took one look at us and laid down to rest shortly afterward. He or she was not interested in us.

We then carried on towards the main glacier face at the foot of the fjord, the Svitjodbreen, named after an area of Sweden.

Our range finders measured 80m at the highest point of the glacier wall. Very impressive. We saw a huge calving, and some small ones too. We cruised the glacier front and then went back to Plancius. By this point, we all started feeling the cold and had worked up an appetite!

During lunch, the ship relocated to Smeerenburg, and our guides launched four Zodiacs to scout for bears in the whole area and nearby islands and coasts. We wanted to make sure not to come across a bear on land accidentally, as this can be a dangerous situation for both bears and humans.

We landed in Smeerenburg and separated our groups into long, medium, and leisurely hikes. Here, we learned about the whaling history of the first part of the 17th century, the rise of Smeerenburg or ‘Blubbertown’ in Amsterdamøya. We also visited the remains of multiple whaler’s graves, including the iconic mass grave for “The Seven”. In 1633-34, a crew of 7 men wintered successfully in Smeerenburg; they were the first Europeans to do so. The following year, in 1634-35, 7 new crew were left behind, but these men were not so fortunate, and all died of scurvy. A mass grave was dug for them.

We went on a walrus walk to enjoy seeing these amazing marine mammals hauled out and resting on the beach.

We also visited the monument erected in 1906 by the crew of Hr. Ms.

Friesland under the order of Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands. Here, there were scattered remains of coffins and whalers pushed out of the ground by the permafrost and were gathered and given a new resting place.

Many of us enjoyed watching birds on the shore such as the Arctic terns. They were looking very beautiful as they posed for photos above their reflections in the coastal pools.

On our walk back, we also saw an Arctic Fox and walruses approaching the landing.

If all of this was not enough, the weather was extremely kind to us. What a day…if you are to taste Svalbard in one day…this surely was the best way we could possibly do it.

Our day started with Ali’s morning call at 7:45 in the morning. We woke up with the steady rhythm of Plancius making its way through the ocean's waves on our way to Greenland. After everyone enjoyed a lovely breakfast, we headed to the lounge and joined our expedition team to receive the AECO (Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators) briefing. We did this before reaching Greenland to understand how we can ensure a safe and appropriate visit to the remote places and Ittoqqortoormiit. After the briefing, the whole expedition team presented themselves in more detail, and we got a better overview of the people who were going to guide us through Greenland on the journey ahead of us.

Shortly after that, Ali held her lecture about polar bears in the lounge while Ursula gave her lecture about polar bears in German in the restaurant. It was lovely to hear more about the King of the Arctic since we had met our first one the day before at Fuglefjorden.

After that, everyone spent some time in the lounge or on the outer decks, watching the sea with coffee, tea, or hot chocolate. At noon, everyone was happy to gather in the restaurant for lunch. After some rest, we all could see how we slowly got caught in fog, and the visibility decreased until you could only see around one hundred meters ahead of the ship. At three o’clock, everyone gathered in the lounge to listen to Jess give her lecture about seals of the Arctic. She explained to us in detail where these creatures come from and that they even share some evolutionary features with bears. She talked about the harbor, ringed, harp, hooded seals, and walrus.

After the lecture, everyone got a little rest,, which didn’t last too long because we were gathering for a medley of shorter presentations. In the lounge, John talked about the history of whaling in Svalbard, Laurance talked about glaciers, and Paulo informed us more about the place Virgohamna, which lies on the opposite side of Smeerenburg.

Simultaneously, Sven, Ben, and Ursula presented their medley of presentations in German in the restaurant. Sven talked about the Sirius Dog Sledge Patrol in Northeast Greenland, Ben gave us a deeper insight into Hidde Dirks Kat and his journey of whaling and survival in the years 1777-1778, and Ursula ended the medley with her presentation on plankton and why it is so crucial for the ecosystem.

With our heads full of new information, we gathered before dinner in the lounge to receive the plans for the next day from our Expedition leader Ali, and Paulo ended the recap with a short talk about fog since we were caught in it for most of the day. After the recap, we all went hungry to the restaurant and had a great dinner. After dinner, before bed, many of us enjoyed a short movie (Planktonium, by Jan van Ijken) with amazing pictures of plankton in the lounge that Ursula set up for us.

Triple WOW. Today is the best polar bear day of the season. We, of course, didn’t know that when we saw the first bear in the morning. But let’s start from the beginning.

Gently rolling, the Plancius sailed through the night. Everybody not on duty was fast asleep. Staying in bed for an additional hour as we sailed westwards into a different time zone.

Eventually, the wake-up call from Ali appeared over the speaker. Her voice sounded disappointed. ‘Good morning to you all. We have reached the area of the pack ice. But there is no pack ice.’ Oh well. Despite this message, it was time to get out of bed, as the expedition team offered a full educational program.

First, Laurence presented an informative compilation of topics and beautiful photos to introduce Greenland, touching on aspects of geography, geology, glaciology, and climate. About halfway through, Ali appeared on stage. Never a good sign for the lecturer. Sure enough, she announced that a polar bear was resting on the ice. The observation lounge emptied out quickly as everyone rushed to their cabins to grab warm clothes, binoculars, and cameras. Meanwhile, Captain Evgeny moved Plancius gently closer to the bear. It lifted its head, not sure what to make out of this giant thing appearing. Soon after, it walked to the ice edge to enter the ice-free water; its head was hardly exposed, making it hard to follow. But the more eyes and binoculars, the better. We enjoyed our first Greenlandic polar bear for a while. Each and anyone on board was on deck. Excitement filled the air.

As we were slowly moving away from the bear, most of us migrated back to the observation lounge to drink tea and warm up. However, nature did not give us much free time. Over the speaker, Ali announced another bear. Almost instantaneously, we all jumped up, grabbed what we needed, and moved out onto the decks. Again, the bear left the ice on our approach to go for a swim.

After a break, we assembled in the lounge, where Laurence picked up the microphone to continue his lecture. Just to be interrupted by the Ding Dong: Another bear was in sight. The same procedure as earlier took place. A presumably young animal entered the water and swam towards us to end very close at the stern. His eyes were taking a real good look at us. Once its curiosity was fulfilled, it swam into the open water, covering an impressive distance. Well, we could go on and on writing very similar paragraphs. But memories and photos taken by many will surely better reflect the extraordinary day—a polar bear day never heard of by the team. In the afternoon, the hotel team surprised us with a tasty hot chocolate, whipped cream, and rum—naturally, another good reason to come out on deck.

Eventually, after Laurence managed to finish his presentation, the last bear appeared. A red splotch nearby indicated its recent meal. It was resting on the ice. At first, it lifted its head to look towards us, but the full belly kept it from getting up. Reminding us that our dinner would soon be served as well.

Overall, we discovered ten kings of the Arctic. Such a high density of polar bears is truly unusual. Maybe they are some of the bears who had gathered at a dead bowhead whale some months ago. It was floating somewhere in this vast area, providing them with a long-lasting feast.

We can’t complete today’s events without mentioning the beautiful floating ice shoals of various sizes, shapes, and colors, the impressive coastal mountains of Greenland at the horizon, and the captivating silence of the vast ocean surface covered with pack ice. Throughout the day, many fulmars followed the ship, and even a few harp seals were visible. The extraordinary day ended when the sun set below the horizon, painting the sky red and orange until it returned some hours later.

After an unbelievable day in the pack ice on the edge of east Greenland, we woke up to a beautiful first morning in Greenland. Because the pack ice was so productive and beautiful the day before, we chose to stay there longer than initially intended. This meant that we were due to arrive at our landing site today in the afternoon, giving us time to sleep in and watch some lectures in the morning.

After breakfast, Jess and Ursula gave simultaneous lectures about the whale species we could see on the journey. They provided details about amazing Arctic specialists like narwhals and bowhead whales and information about how whales feed and migrate.

After lunch, we were excited to step on shore in what was a new country for many of us. Ali had warned us the night before that Myggbukta, our landing site, was famous for its many biting insects. But we didn’t need to worry about little biting bugs because on the shore, just over a kilometer away, was one big biting animal, another polar bear!

The bear was very large and was walking towards our landing site. This meant we were unable to land here. Even when bears are very far away, it is still unsafe to begin operations as they can move extremely quickly through the landscape. We admired the bear from a distance on the ship and spotted our first muskox on the trip. A herd of them were grazing in the tundra on an open plain, their preferred habitat. The weather was terrific, and we enjoyed being outside as we set off to a different location, to a place called Kapp Humboldt.

We reached our destination at about 3.30 pm. It was a little windy as we boarded the Zodiacs and a bumpy ride to the shore. We split into our walking groups and set off. Along the way, we visited a hut used for trapping and research, and we could peek inside. We scaled the slopes to get a view of the landscape, and we admired the many plant species that were new to us. Greenland has many different plants compared to Svalbard, including species of dwarf trees such as birch and willow, making up a diverse ground cover when the ice and snow have melted.

After a good leg stretch, we walked back along the beach to the landing site and rode back to the ship, ready for yet another lovely dinner.

Overnight we cruised along Kejser Franz Joseph Fjord passing Teuffelschloss at about 4am. This mountain is famous for the spectacle that it sometimes presents in the red sunrise light. A few of the more intrepid of us woke to check whether this morning was going to be one of the special ones. The verdict reported to the sleepyheads the next morning was that it was nice, but not exceptional.

Those that conserved their energy knew that we had a big morning planned at Blomsterbugt – Blossom Bay. When we arrived and went on deck, we immediately saw that the mountains on both sides of the fjord were brilliantly colored, layered, and folded sandstone. After a quick breakfast the long hikers landed at 8am and set off up the valley into those hills. The rest of us had a more relaxed start and then took the short Zodiac shuttle over the glassy water. What a perfect morning it was with no wind, a blue sky, and warm sunshine. We split into our walking groups and made the gentle climb inland through the valley.

The tundra was green and lush, with only a few blossoms due to the lateness of the season, but with plenty of seedheads and autumn reds and yellows in the low growing groundcover. As we reached the saddle at the end of the valley, the landscape opened into a wide basin filled with a huge lake – Noa Sø. We explored the area leading down to the lake and spotted two Musk Oxen grazing there. Because we were cautious, slow, and quiet, all of us had a good chance to see them – a bull with a cow. The guides told us that this was a rare treat.

They eventually left to seek better grazing while we continued our journeys. The long hikers were away from the ship for more than 5 hours, and all the groups had a very full morning. The ever-adaptive galley and dining rooms teams had delayed lunch until our return. We gratefully made the most of their service and enjoyed an even larger than usual lunch.

As we ate, and into the afternoon, Plancius cruised along the fjord and through the remarkable landscape of shimmering icebergs and extraordinary geology. The afternoon weather was, if anything, better than the morning, and soon the sun deck was the place to be - to enjoy the conditions and the scenery. The hotel team didn’t miss the opportunity, and soon ice cream sundaes were in our hands and in our mouths. For our entertainment, our sister ship, Rembrandt van Rijn, appeared in the fjord ahead, sent a Zodiac our way, and was delivered a load of fresh food. It was lovely to see her graceful lines.

It seemed that the Expedition Team did not want to be left out. Ali was on the PA announcing a Zodiac cruise before dinner. Down the gangway we went, out into Isfjord. We explored down the fjord along the towering rock walls and through the wide variety of shapes and sizes of bergs and bergy bits. Some of the ice was just so, so blue – glimmering in the low angled sun. The scale of the terrain made trying to judge distances an impossible task. It was better to not worry about the numbers and just try to soak it all in. We had excellent views of two bearded seals that were resting on an ice flow. At the last, we tucked into a small cove where a group of musk oxen was sighted. The Zodiac ride back to Plancius was long, fast, chilly, and exhilarating.

The hotel team again delayed our meal to allow for maximum activity time. We are so spoiled. Our expedition just keeps getting better and better. Lucky us.

Who says we need to sleep late this holiday? Certainly not Ali, as her voice thunders through the loudspeakers: “Good morning, everyone. Go outside and enjoy the view!” The weather was wonderful: A bright blue sky and the sun streamed down on the towering mountains and cold blue waters around us. Before us lay Maria Ø or Maria Island. The island was not named after the biblical Maria we all know, but after Nathorst’s daughter when he explored the place first in 1899. If only we were first, what could we have called the place Plancius Ø.

It was a small island of no more than 25 km2 and home to rounded boulder-like hills that peaked at around 200 meters. We could see plenty of musk ox droppings and tracks on the beach. Ali explained that the island is too small to host large animals and that throughout the years, she has always seen one large male roaming its valleys. We named it Oscar. Oscar was apparently quite annoyed by our presence and hid during our stay. No sight of the grumpy goat this morning.

Despite Oscars no show, we enjoyed the island and made the most of it: The long hikers went out into the hills; the other groups could see small dots of people ascending the peaky hill tops. What a sight to see! Small alpine lakes were to be seen with mirror reflections of the surrounding mountains and serene landscapes. Under a sunny blue sky, it does not seem to be an arctic day at all. As the place is only visited rarely, it was an expedition for the expedition team, too. Finding a nice route uphill and meander our way down again via another slope proved to be a lot of fun. The area is wild and untamed, and no clear walking paths or routes are available, as one can see, for example, in the Alps. Greenland is where the real guides can stretch their legs!

After the hike, we quickly went onboard for lunch. Walking made us hungry, and chef Khabir was awaiting us. Meanwhile, we steamed onwards to our next destination, Ella Ø.

Ella Ø was a beautiful island. The southern slope was a landing site no one from Oceanwide had ever landed. And what a special place to visit! As we neared in groups towards the perimeter, we could see Oscar's relatives on the tundra with a little calf. As soon as the animals noticed us, they ran for the hills. Luckily, most of us could see the majestic fur balls before they took off. After that, we continued with a perimeter landing around some of the area's most well-preserved Inuit winter huts. John explained how life was back in the day for the Thule people.

Next on the list was dinner. Again, Plancius sailed onwards, deeper into the icy fjords.

The sky was covered with clouds of various shades of grey as Plancius sailed into the Alpefjord where we planned a morning Zodiac cruise. While we were having our breakfast the deck crew lowered, one by one, ten Zodiacs onto the water. Each time the process stopped at deck 3 to let a guide jump in. Holding on to the straps, they were gently set onto the water surface. Next, the metal hook was detached, the engine started and the painter line near the bow unclipped. A fascinating operation often overlooked by a few guests.

Soon after, the fleet of zodiacs spread out from the mother ship towards the wall of ice reaching into the water. It is built by the Gully Glacier and the Sefström Glacier which merge into one some distance above. Their brown coloured moraines created a pattern of lines on the surface. We cruised along the rugged ice front where countless vertical cracks and lines of earthy ice created a unique appearance. The scenery of the surrounding mountains added to the impressive backdrop making us feel small and insignificant. The prominent Mount Pyramid reaching 2293 m into the sky. Slowly drifting past the steep rocky slopes, we were amazed to learn that the black lines running down the greenish rocks were created by moisture and algae.

As the morning progressed, a steady increase of sunlight promised an ultra-extraordinary landing in the afternoon. The guides could barely hold back their excitement knowing that the sunlight will intensify the colours at the landing site in Segelsällskapet Fjord. After lunch we reached the fjord sailing along a long mountain called Berzelius Bjaerg. The 1500 metre rock face visible above the water is made of countless layers of various colours creating a breathtaking scenery.

Finally, we set foot on land and walked the short distance to the spot where the layered rocks entered the water. Reaching a depth of up to 600 m they re-appeared, although not as spectacular, on the other side. By the time the medium and leisurely walkers had arrived the long wanderers were already visible high up on the mountain crest.

It is almost impossible to describe the beauty of this geological wonder in words. Visual images are much better. A conservative calculation by the writer suggests that at least 10’000 photos were taken (calculation based on 110 guests and guides with 30 cameras (times 200) and 80 phones (times 50)). The clearly separated stripes reminded some of us of a lasagne. Into the bowl (crystalline basement) layers of tomato sauce (sandstone) and pasta (mudstone and siltstone) were put on top of each other. Towards the top béchamel sauce (limestone and dolomite) was added. After the baking (through geological forces) the cook dug into the layers with a spoon squeezing vertically and pushing horizontally causing the layers to change directions. This happened 900 to 600 million years ago which became the now called Eleonore Bay Supergroup Basin which at some places might reach up to 14 km of thickness.

By now we all became very captivated by the unique and beautiful geology. We had plenty of time to explore while the long and medium hikers went to explore the surrounding areas. The medium walkers enjoyed watching a red throated diver feeding its chick on the lake and the medium photo group even encountered a ptarmigan.

The truly memorable day ended with a beautiful sunset shining on more amazing layers of geological history.

We started the day with Ali’s morning call for another beautiful day. We had anchored in Fleming Fjord and the sun was rising in the blue sky above us. At 9 o'clock everyone was ready at the gangway to board the zodiacs for the landing. When the expedition team had landed onshore, they found relatively fresh tracks of a polar bear in the sand of the beach. As soon as we got on shore, we divided into our walking groups and the long hikers went off first followed by the other groups. After everyone looked at the polar bear tracks, we started to walk more into the tundra.

Since we were walking on sedimentary rocks from the Triassic-Jurassic (252-145 Ma years old) we hoped to find some fossils within them. Unfortunately, most of us were unlucky in that search except one of the groups. Some of us explored the canyon with a river coming down into the fjord while others went above the canyon first to walk on the tundra and get a nice view of the valley inland. There we also spotted two musk oxen, grazing in the far distance.

Towards the end of the hike, some of us walked back along the shoreline to our landing site with the waves crashing onto the beach. When everyone arrived at the landing site it was time for the people to go for a polar plunge. Many of us were brave enough and went for a short swim or dip into the arctic waters of Fleming Fjord. With that being done we quickly got shuttled back to get warm again on Plancius with a nice shower, followed with a proper lunch.

After the landing we needed to start heading towards Scoresby Sund. We had long way of 190 nautical miles to cover in order to arrive at our next destination for the morning. After a good rest, John invited all of us to listen to his lecture about the quest for the North Pole. In that lecture he informed us what people thought the north pole might look like since no one ever had been there before. After that he talked about important expeditions who tried to find new waterways in the Arctic or reach the North Pole. These stories he presented were full of tragedy, heroic acts but also unpreparedness and recklessness from the people who went on these expeditions. After an hour of storytelling by John and bringing these expeditions and people closer to us, everyone had time to enjoy the beautiful afternoon outside or in the lounge.

At 18:30 the expedition team invited us into the lounge for the daily recap. Ali informed us first about the plans for the next day. After that Lawrence talked about columnar basalt rock which we would see the following day. Jess talked about lichen and demonstrated the way it is formed with some helpful volunteers and props. And finally, Ben informed us about the Greenland shark, the longest living vertebrate. Then it was time for us to go to dinner. After dinner the lounge was busy with people having a drink and enjoying the beautiful sunset behind the mountains of eastern Greenland, while the Plancius was gently rolling in the waves on its way to Scoresby Sund.

Overnight, Plancius had charged south, leaving the confused swell of the open sea behind, and entering the largest fjord on earth – Scoresby Sund. A few hardy souls were up early, catching beautiful light on the icebergs. These frigid behemoths lie stranded on the shallowing seabed as they flow eastwards into Hall Bredning. This area is often poetically called the iceberg graveyard of Scoresby Sund.

As the sun rose higher, we approached the imposing south wall of Scoresby Sund, Volquaart Boons Kyst, and our destination for the morning; Vikingebugt. The cliffs and peaks of this coast are dark and reach up to more than 1500 metres above sea level and are made of a series of lava flows which create a layered landscape with uniform and regular shapes.

We found Vikingebugt completely choked with a morass of glacier ice, clearly the large glacier at the back of the bay, Brede Gletscher (broad glacier), had been very active. The morning light got even better as we crept in towards our anchorage in a side arm of the fjord, and before long we heard the familiar clunking of the anchor chain running out.

Conditions were perfect, once again far exceeding the expectations from the weather forecast. Barely a cloud in the sky, not a breath of wind, and mild – ideal for a Zodiac cruise. As we boarded the boats, we found ourselves floating on a silver mirror, studded with crystals of ice. We made our way first to the cliffs on the western shore of the bay, and as we crept slowly along the wall, we found a series of beautiful basalt columns. The columns are formed as lava cools slowly, and they generally form regular hexagonal shapes. Some of the most beautiful structures had vast sweeping curves, formed as the cooling lava was bent and stretched by subsequent volcanic activity. At least a few people remarked on the similarity between church architecture and these grand arches rising above us. We continued further into the bay and pushed gently into the shifting maze of glacial ice. Stopping occasionally to view particularly beautiful icebergs, and to listen to the crack and pop of pressurized air bubbles being released from the slowly melting ice. About halfway into the fjord a few Zodiacs were able to see a very distant polar bear, wandering round on land towards the back of the bay – the ultimate pixel bear, and only just visible with good binoculars, but a nice reminder that this part of Greenland is home to a small population of these charismatic creatures.

After several glorious hours, we wound our way slowly back towards Plancius, and dived straight in to lunch. Meanwhile, the ship repositioned to Charcot Havn, our destination for the afternoon. Here we found a lovely bay, surrounded by rich tundra, and with some interesting rocky outcrops towards the back of the bay. Captain Levekov brought the ship very close to the shore, gently approaching the coast in completely uncharted waters.

The expedition team set off immediately and created a perimeter for us to explore; this included some verdant tundra, several large ridges with fantastic views back over the bay, and the elegant sweep of beach and lagoon which makes the eastern extremity of Charcot Havn. Quite a few of us chose to meet Laurence and Ben halfway through the landing, and from our meeting point at the top of the perimeter, we all walked to a gorgeous viewpoint. From here, we spent about twenty minutes soaking in the immense vista across the flat plain of glacial sediments, towards the glistening mass of Charcot Gletscher, and far into the mountains and ice cap which make up the center of Milne Land, the large island we found ourselves on.

After a few lovely hours on shore, we all rushed back to the ship for a special Arctic dinner. As we approached the ship we caught tell-tale whiffs of cooking meat, and realized with some glee that tonight there was going to be a barbecue. On board again, and changed into our party outfits, we feasted on a banquet of salads, barbecued meats, and a wealth of piping hot deserts, all washed down with complimentary gluhwein. The weather was magnificent, and some of us even managed to have dinner in t-shirts. Dinner led straight into dancing, and as Ingrid played hit after hit, the dancing grew steadily more energetic and raucous. Celebrations lasted long into the night. What a way to round up another superb day of Arctic exploration.

The wake-up call indicated that we had arrived at the Bjørneøer, but so had the fog. Ali told us that the conditions would be assessed over breakfast, and to stay tuned for announcements. By 9am it was clear that the fog would not clear, so the anchor was weighed and Plancius set course for Sydkap. Along the way we emerged from the fog to enjoy the navigation through the mountains and icebergs. Laurence gave a presentation on Climate Change and Glacial Hazards.

After yet another hearty and tasty lunch, we took the short Zodiac shuttle to the beach. The long hikers went first, as this was to be the longest hike of the entire expedition. They were away for 5 and a half hours climbing to a prominent high spot on the ridge across the tundra from the landing. Along the way they enjoyed encounters with several Arctic Hare and Musk Ox.

The rest of us soon followed and split into the normal medium and leisurely groups. All of us crossed the tundra toward the higher ground. It was a bit boggy, but not too bad. The bigger issue was the softness of the ground. It was like walking on three feather mattresses laid in a pile. Each step was an effort. Still, we kept going, all of us seeking a group of Musk Oxen that had been seen from the ship. It was fun and interesting to see the Expedition Team at work. The radio communication between the groups allowed them to direct us to the best viewing opportunities. It wasn’t always completely successful, but most of us got a nice Musk Ox visit. Arctic Hares were also seen by some groups.

All of us enjoyed the superb views of the uncountable icebergs filling all the bays in every direction. They were of all shapes and sizes and could be seen close to the shore and in the far distance. With the mirror-like sea and the shining sun, the seaward views took our attention from every little rise that we crested.

There were a lot of muskox remains in the landscape including skulls, hooves, and their skin and wool. This is an active hunting area for the people of Ittoqqortoormiit who use the meat and skin of the muskox.

At Sydkap we had another chance to experience the vast size and scale of the landscape. Any destination always took longer to reach than expected. The bowls, valleys and ridges rolled away into the distance with the edge of the ice cap barely visible in the distance. Our normal perception had not yet had the chance to adjust to Greenland reality.

In the end, we were glad of the morning’s rest as it allowed us to make the most of this long and energetic afternoon. All the groups covered more than their usual distances. We arrived back aboard Plancius for a catch-up and dinner. For most this was followed by a quick visit to the lounge and an early bedtime. Pleasant dreams.

Clouds of fog shrouded the hills and mountains this morning. Out of the misty banks a settlement appeared. We arrived this morning at Ittoqqortoormiit: the northernmost settlement on the east Greenland coast. Its numerous colorful little houses broke free of the low clouds and bathed in the morning sun. After breakfast, we were shuttled towards the little harbor where we could freely roam around the place. It did not take long before we were greeted by the smallest inhabitants: husky puppies curiously approached us for some cuddles and attention. The little rascals would follow us along our stroll as if they found new lifelong friends.

As it was still early, the streets were buzzing with quad bikes bringing kids to school, the town was waking up as we were to explore its streets. Builders could be seen mending the existing structures. The town was alive and seemed busy fixing roofs and maintenance for the coming winter. The local population was friendly and cheerful. We were able to look inside their church, their supermarket, and their small tourist information center.

After an hour or three it was time to leave the settlement as we headed towards Hurry inlet. If the fog gods permitted, we would make a final landing here. And as we thought our luck had perished (already packing our bags) nothing less was true: the fog lifted, and hurry inlet was blazing in a golden sunlight. Our last landing in Greenland was to be a sandy beach followed by a hilly landscape. The long hikers went all the way into the backcountry towards the viewpoint of a glacier. The walk proved challenging as the landscape was riddled with moors and large boulders, the place was filled with colors as the plants still burst some colorful leaves on the onset of the coming winter. Again, the medium hike group proved to be made of mountain goats that needed some mad hiking. At one point the group was bound to overtake the actual long hikers. To save their honor and feeble feelings the medium group decided to stay a bit back from the long hikers and enjoy another hill top. Yet proving the durability of medium excellence.

The leisurely group meanwhile were lured into one of John’s well-known traps: the cunning kiwi guide trod light footed over a quicksand beach, trapping its follower’s knee deep into the muddy mess. Probably much to his enjoyment. It turned into quite an adventure, some of them had to be hosed off at the gangway. When all of us were back on land (including the flimsy long hikers) we could enjoy a much-desired dinner while watching the Greenlandic coast fade into the fog.

Today many of us enjoyed a lie in bed after a lot of early starts and we could rest our aching muscles after all the hiking. Today was a sea day sailing to Akureyri and it was a bumpy one. During the night the waves really picked up and we had to secure all our belongings.

After breakfast Ursula kicked off the day’s lecture program with a talk all about humpback whales, a species that we hoped to see nearer to Iceland as it is a real hotspot for them. She told us about how she came to be obsessed with whales and environmentalism and she also showed us one of her biggest sewing creations, a huge humpback whale calf yearling, which swam around the lounge, with assistance from Jess, John, Paolo, and Doctor Elmer.

During the lecture the fog rolled in against the horizon and outside was grey, cold, and uninviting. Just the occasional fulmar flew by, using the wind to soar dynamically along the edges of the waves. We were quite happy to be inside, cozy, and warm with coffee and hot chocolate as we learnt about whales.

Not long after Ursula’s talk. Ali was up next in the lounge giving her talk titled Ice Maidens – Women in the Arctic, which was all about the women and their lives in Inuit communities as well as female explorers in the Arctic. At the same time Ben gave a lecture in the dining room for the German speaking passengers all about Louise Arner Boyd, a wealthy American woman who caught the ‘polar bug’ and spent her fortune exploring in the Arctic, visiting all the same fjords that we have seen on this trip.

We then ate AGAIN! Making the most of our final buffet lunch in the restaurant.

After eating, John entertained us in the lounge with his lecture about Norse Mythology. Some of us then spent the rest of the afternoon packing for our departure tomorrow and others relaxed and spent time reading and chatting in the lounge.

In the evening, we were invited to a special final recap in the lounge, the Captains Farewell, where we had prosecco and toasted to the end of a beautiful trip. We had the opportunity to relive all the memories of our voyage as we watched a slideshow of photographs and videos from the trip that was put together by Paolo. We then went to our final dinner in the restaurant and then spent the evening making the most of our time with new friends in the bar.

We arrived in Akureyri in Iceland, the third and final country of our voyage, and it was time to say our goodbyes. We had our final breakfast aboard Plancius then gathered the last of our things and headed for the gangway. We said goodbye to the whole team onboard and the new friends we had made. Some of us were off to explore some of Iceland’s treasures while others were flying straight home, looking back as we left to take a final look at the Plancius, our floating home.

Thank you all for joining us on this voyage to North East Greenland. We hope to see you again in the future, wherever that might be!

Total distance sailed: 1992.1 nautical miles

Farthest north: 79°47.6’N / 011°11.1’E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Evgeny Levakov, Expedition Leader Ali Liddle, Hotel Manager Ingrid Van De Loo, and all the crew and staff of M/V Plancius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you!