PLA12-24, trip log, East Greenland, Scoresby Sund - Aurora Borealis, Including Long Hikes

Today is the day! It is finally time for us to embark upon our Arctic adventure! In the late afternoon we arrived at our ship, Plancius, our new home for the next nine days. It had been a long journey for most of us, so we were glad for the warm welcome provided by the staff. The day was cloudy with a strong wind blowing and we had to dodge a bit of spray as we made our way to the gangway. We all checked in and were quickly escorted to our respective cabins. We excitedly started exploring the ship and wandering the decks enjoying the views of the harbor.

Once we were all aboard, we were required to make our way to the lounge to take part in a mandatory briefing and abandon ship drill. With that done, we watched the skillful navigation by the bridge team, assisted by a tugboat, to leave the dock against the very strong wind.

As we set our course north and headed down the fjord toward the open sea and Greenland, our expedition leader, Ali, invited us back to the lounge for the Captain’s Cocktails. We met Hotel Manager Ingrid, Captain Evengy, and the expedition team. We celebrated the start of our expedition with some bubbles and canapes before we were called for the next activity of the day: dinner!

We filed down to the restaurant for a delicious buffet and an opportunity to meet all our fellow travelers. The evening was spent getting comfortable, or being social, or both, with the added bonuses of the sighting of a breaching minke whale and a spectacular sunset.

Our first full expedition day was at sea. The wind was pushing us north, but it was strong, up to 35 knots at times. This led to a substantial swell, and thus substantial “motion of the ocean”. A number of us suffered and remained in our cabins.

The rest of us were able to attend the safety briefing for Zodiac operations and polar bear safety. We then found the boot room and were fitted for the rubber boots that would allow us to make the “wet landings” from the Zodiac and walk on the sometimes-boggy tundra. We were all set to begin our activities.

Our first breakfast and lunch showed that dinner was not a fluke, and that we will be well fed on this voyage – at least when we are able to eat. The education program continued with Laurence on Introduction to Greenland, Joyce on Greenland Under the Sea – an insight into her research into benthic life, and John on the History of Greenland.

The conditions eased a bit in the afternoon, and the 4pm treats were well received. The recap included Ali giving us an introduction to bird life, introductions from the expedition team, and a close approach to a large iceberg.

We continued to pass large bergs before and during dinner. As were made our way into the lounge for after-dinner social activities, we remained in the fog but had turned the corner into Scoresby Sund and calmer conditions.

Perhaps the rocking in our beds might be a bit more gentle this night so that we will be well rested for the early start in the morning.

After a full day at sea, we left the swell behind and entered the largest fjord on earth – Scoresby Sund. A few hardy souls were up early, catching beautiful light as it played on the icebergs. These frigid behemoths lie stranded on the shallow seabed as they flow eastwards into Hall Bredning. This area is often poetically called the iceberg graveyard of Scoresby Sund.

As the sun rose higher, we approached the imposing south wall of Scoresby Sund, Volquaart Boons Kyst, and our destination for the morning; Vikingebugt. The cliffs and peaks of this coast are dark and reach more than 1500 meters above sea level, comprised of a series of lava flows which create a layered landscape with uniform and regular shapes.

We found Vikingebugt completely choked with a morass of glacier ice; clearly the large glacier at the back of the bay, Brede Gletscher (broad glacier), had been very active. Although it was overcast and the mountains were foggy, the conditions were great for a Zodiac cruise. We made our way first to the cliffs on the western shore of the bay, where, as we crept slowly along the wall, we found a series of beautiful basalt columns. The columns are formed as lava cools slowly, and they generally form regular hexagonal shapes. Some of the most beautiful structures had vast sweeping curves, formed as the cooling lava was bent and stretched by subsequent volcanic activity. At least a few people remarked on the similarity between church architecture and these grand arches rising above us.

We continued further into the bay and pushed gently into the shifting maze of glacial ice, stopping occasionally to view particularly beautiful icebergs, and to listen to the crack and pop of pressurised air bubbles being released from the slowly melting ice. At the end of the fjord, we were able to see two very distant polar bears, wandering towards the back of the bay – the ultimate pixel bears, only just visible with good binoculars, Still, a nice reminder that this part of Greenland is home to a small population of these charismatic creatures.

After several glorious hours, we wound our way slowly back towards Plancius, and dived straight into lunch. Meanwhile, the ship repositioned to Charcot Havn, our destination for the afternoon. Here we found a lovely bay, surrounded by rich tundra, and with some interesting rocky outcrops towards the back of the bay. Captain Levekov brought the ship very close to the shore, gently approaching the coast in completely uncharted waters.

The expedition team set off immediately to scout for bears, after which everyone was invited onshore. The surroundings were beautiful; some verdant tundra, several large ridges with fantastic views back over the bay, and the elegant sweep of beach and lagoon which marks the eastern extremity of Charcot Havn. This was our very first landing, and the options were to go for a short, medium, or long walk. All of them went past a gorgeous viewpoint, where we could soak in the immense vista across the flat plain of glacial sediments, towards the glistening mass of Charcot Gletscher, and far into the mountains and ice cap which make up the center of Milne Land, the large island we found ourselves on.

After this amazing first day, we headed back to the ship for a lovely warm buffet dinner. What a first day to start our exploration of the Arctic aboard Plancius, and many more days to come!

We all woke up after Ali’s morning call at 07:45 in the morning. We were slowly approaching our anchorage at Rypefjord with a lovely scenery of mountains with snowy peaks and autumn coloured vegetation on the slopes. At the end of Rypefjord, Eielson Gletscher flowed into the fjord. After a scout of the area, the expedition team lowered the boats to find a good spot to land. As soon as the landing site was prepared, we started to board the Zodiacs and approached the shore.

After a short shuttle, we arrived at a small beach with a steep slope ahead of us. After we split in our usual hiking groups, all of us embarked on our own exploration. Already in the beginning of the steep slope, you could see tracks and fur of musk oxen which spread excitement for a possible encounter with them during our hikes. As soon as the groups reached the top of the plateau many of us spotted different groups of musk oxen. We had great encounters, and some groups saw exciting behaviors within the groups.

The long hikers managed spotted an Arctic hare, while the medium photo group even spotted a Gyrfalcon which was a very special occasion, since it was the first encounter of the trip. After the wildlife encounters, we all made our way back to shore through the autumn-coloured tundra with an amazing view over Rypefjord.

With very happy faces we all went back into the Zodiacs and boarded Plancius. Since many of us had a long walk, we were happy to go for the well-deserved lunch in the dining room. While we were having lunch and resting, Plancius was relocated by the bridge team to Harefjord. For the afternoon, the expedition team planned a split landing for us. While half of us were able to go on shore at Harefjord in a perimeter to explore the beach and tundra, the other half proceeded on a Zodiac cruise. The Zodiac cruise was amazing, passing icebergs much larger than Plancius. It was truly spectacular to have a look at these floating monsters from up-close.

As the sun was starting to set, the landscape was bathed in beautiful evening light, we swapped so that all had time ashore and afloat. We enjoyed our recap and dinner, but that was not yet the end of the day. Since we were heading towards the Bjørneøer, we were passing through Øfjord Fjord with its steep mountains on either side. The light was amazing and many of us were in the lounge or on the decks enjoying the icebergs and mountains in the evening sun. What a special day.

Overnight, we had continued out transit up through the majestic Øfjord (island fjord), so the early birds found the ship approaching the namesake archipelago at the eastern end of the fjord. A few of us had stirred in the night as strong winds had rattled the ship, this fjord is infamous for funneling katabatic winds off the ice sheet, and the Greenlandic word for the fjord, Ikaasakajik, means ‘the bad sound’ and refers to the frequent strong winds here.

Early in the morning, we had some glorious views of the far side of the fjord, and the stunning mountains of Renland, up to 2000 meters high, and all lit by the soft pink light of the sunrise. However, quite soon, these were hidden as thick banks of fog rolled in from the main body of Scoresby Sund, and our destination for the morning, Bjørneøer, or ‘Bear Islands’, disappeared into a dense wall of white. Ali and the Expedition Team were on the bridge, to scout, and to assess conditions. After a while, it was clear that the fog was going to stay, and a landing in low visibility would not be safe. Instead, Ali announced a cunning plan B; a Zodiac cruise among the islands and icebergs.

Shortly after this was shared, we found ourselves at water level, and venturing out into the fog. Our expedition guides took us through the island chain, finding the areas where the fog was thinnest. With the superb light, the icebergs were beautiful; frigid, towering castles of ice. A few of the boats explored the east coast of Milne Land and found a beautiful little bay, complete with a rippled sand beach, and some fiery autumn tundra, all set against the backdrop of Grundtvigskirken, the 1970 meter peak towering over the entire area. After several magic hours, it was time to get back on board, to sift through our photos, and to feast on another sumptuous lunch.

During lunch, Plancius headed out through across the head of Hall Bredning and towards our destination for the afternoon; Sydkap. This area is a large slope of rich tundra, all set in the crook of a large sweeping bay. The long hikers set off into the hills, aiming for the nearby mountain peak, the medium and medium photo groups went exploring around the large ponds, and found that the ground underfoot was so rich, that it was quite hard going; a little like walking across an endless feather mattress. The weather turned slightly inclement, a gentle rain set in, and the wind picked up from the west. This encouraged a few of the groups back towards the landing site a little earlier than might otherwise have been the case. However, it was a glorious afternoon to roam through the vibrant Arctic tundra in all its autumn glory.

As we approached the ship in the Zodiacs, we could hear music drifting off the back deck, accompanied by the unmistakable smell of meat cooking on charcoal – a sure sign that we were in for a treat: an Arctic barbecue! We gathered outside on Deck 3, dressed up warmly, and we tucked into delicious, chargrilled food. In the meantime, Plancius was cruising out and into Hall Bredning, the so-called iceberg graveyard of Scoresby Sund. As the sun went down, the music got louder, and the beverages flowed more freely. Before long the back deck had been converted to a dance floor, but every once in a while, a dancer would break off and stare out to the horizon, admiring the vivid blues, purples, and reds of the setting sun. A thoroughly surreal end to another magical day exploring in the Arctic.

This morning, we woke up a bit later than normal. After the BBQ and dancing of last night the sleep in was more than welcome. Plancius had made her way during the night and dropped anchor during breakfast. We had arrived at Ittoqqortoormiit. The place with a name that needs pronunciation practicing for even the smoothest talkers amongst us. Ittoq (in short) is the largest and northernmost settlement in the northeastern corner of Greenland and was a hub for polar exploration in the early 1900’s. Today the population holds roughly 350 people, and we were about to pay them a visit.

Autumn was in full swing and this morning we were met with pouring rain. That could not stop us from exploring. We were able to visit the local supermarket to have a look around (not to buy anything as resupplies are only twice a year, we certainly did not buy any vegetables or pastries as we have plenty to eat onboard). The tourist shop was specially opened for us, so we had a chance to buy the local art, postcards, books and more. The cozy church across the street gave a good insight into some of the oldest buildings of the settlement. For the daring amongst us it was possible, with the help of the friendly local “Musk Ox Man”” to have a taste of musk ox and try out some traditional polar clothing made from seal skin and bear fur. We could see the weather balloon lift off at the station on the hill and the sledge dogs being fed near the river. In the valley behind the village, one could find an impeccable green soccer field. A strange sighting in the otherwise rocky and barren grounds.

When everyone was thoroughly drenched in cultural exploration and rain, we returned to Plancius. It was time for lunch and some afternoon lectures by Ursula and Ali about polar bears. The weather did not improve as we headed into Hurry Inlet, the place where we would land later today. The wind made way for some wind, creating a swell that was simply too dangerous to land in. Plancius slowly headed towards the mouth of Scoresby Sund. Onward to our next adventure.

Our final day in Greenland began with yet another brilliant breakfast provided to us by our gracious crew hosts. This was followed by the now daily routine of boarding Zodiacs for an adventure cruise to explore the myriad wonders of nature that can be encountered above the Arctic circle. Our route was in Romer Fjord, named after a Danish physicist and astronomer who developed a reputation for science after making the first measurement of the speed of light.

Though our departure from Plancius was under an overcast sky. We were all in great anticipation as to what wonders awaited us. The cruise turned out to be a constant photo opportunity. Despite the fog and low clouds, we encountered glassy water conditions. We soon reached the back of the fjord where we observed eider ducks and glaucous gulls. The highlight, of course, was our encounter with Nanuk, ‘King of the North’. The polar bear first presented as a motionless ‘sleeping patch’ of white on the rocks at some two hundred and fifty meters. The bear soon got to its feet to inspect the strange visitors from afar and tend to its ‘duties’ in a very relaxed manner. All those present were able to enjoy this spectacle and capture memories and images as it moved about doing what polar bears do when not hunting on ice, conserving energy.

We moved as a collective group slowly toward the bear but, unfortunately, the water became quite shallow and were unable to approach as close as hoped. The distance worked well for the bear who was not in the least stressed by our presence. As we remained intently observing the polar bear, the sun broke through and exposed the magnificent snowcapped mountains that surrounded us. Furthermore, as if on cue, several harbor seals began popping up around to inspect the visitors. We subsequently departed and drove along the opposite side of the fjord past two waterfalls before getting back to the ship.

Our afternoon excursion was a landing nearby. We could clearly see the steam streaming off the hot springs which this particular landing site is noted. Romer Fjord is one of the few places in Greenland where one can find such springs.

The expedition staff set up a perimeter landing so that we could walk about and explore the springs and the associated vegetation. Although the initial landing was made under clear conditions, after roughly fifteen minutes the fog began to role in, and the temperature dropped. Unfortunately, this turn in atmospheric clarity had an immediate impact as the perimeter was greatly reduced given visibility and concerns by the expedition staff of encountering polar bears. As Ali has said “white bears in fog with people on rocks is not a good recipe for safety”, and our time ashre was curtailed.

Finally, a couple of our intrepid explorers braved the waters of the Arctic with a plunge before returning safely to Plancius.

As with our transit north, the open ocean rocked us in our berths overnight. Nonetheless, the dining room was well attended at breakfast, and most of us were smiling. The first activity of the morning, Ursula’s talk on humpback whales and conservation required some hanging on, but by the time Sven explained Arctic Geomorphological Phenomena the seas were smoother, and the sun emerged.

Our last lunch aboard was as delightful as all the previous ones, thanks again to the galley and dining room teams. The education/entertainment program continued with a medley of talks from John/Ben/Laurence on Norse Mythology/Greenland Sharks/Glacial Hazards and Climate Change. We then had a chance to see what the divers had seen under the water with their show on Diving in Greenland.

When not in the lounge, we were on outer decks to enjoy the sea air and admire the northern fulmars and watch our slow approach to Iceland.

Sadly, we had to part with the trusty rubber boots that had served us so well on those long, medium and leisurely walks. That done, we were back in the lounge for the Captain’s Farewell Cocktails and speeches of thanks to us and all the teams. Tonight, we enjoyed last extravagant meal in the dining room.

After dinner, we went back to the lounge to view the voyage slideshow prepared by Keith and the expedition team. What a wonderful way to share our voyage with friends and family.

We put off packing as long as we could. Eventually it got done, and we still had one last evening of fun and laughter with our new friends.

We arrived in Akureyri, Iceland and it was time to say our goodbyes and snatch a last chance to exchange contact details. We had our final breakfast aboard Plancius, then gathered the last of our things and headed for the gangway. We said goodbye to the whole team onboard and the new friends we had made. Some of us were off to explore some of Iceland’s treasures while others were flying straight home, looking back as we left to take a final look at the Plancius, recalling the good times and perhaps planning for more in the future.

Thank you all for joining us on this voyage to North East Greenland. We hope to see you again in the future, wherever that might be!

Total distance sailed: 1073,4 nautical miles

Farthest north: 71°18.0’N / 024°56.0’E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Evgeny Levakov, Expedition Leader Ali Liddle, Hotel Manager Ingrid Van De Loo, and all the crew and staff of M/V Plancius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you!