OTL08-24, trip log, Around Spitsbergen - In the realm of polar bear & ice

Finally! The day had come; it was time for us to board our new home for our newly starting expedition, m/v Ortelius! We arrived at the port in Longyearbyen with calm waters. Some of us had only landed a few hours before, and now we were about to start our adventure onboard M/V Ortelius. The Expedition Team and Hotel Staff had helpfully brought our luggage aboard and taken it to our cabins earlier in the day. All that remained was for us to take a few photos of m/v Ortelius while we made our way up the gangway.

We were warmly welcomed by all the crew and staff who assisted us in finding our cabins. With some time left, we explored the ship, got our bearings, and grabbed a tea or coffee in the bar. Once everyone was onboard, it was time for the mandatory ship safety video and briefing presented by expedition leader Adam and chief officer Romanas. We were given all the information we needed, such as moving safely around the ship, the things we could and could not do, and how to put on our emergency life jackets. Having learned this, it was then time for an abandon ship drill, so after hearing the seven short and one long blast of the ship’s horn, we went to our cabins, got our lifejackets, and went to our muster station in the bar. Then, we were led to our lifeboats so we would know where to go in case of a real emergency.

After the drill, we headed to the bar, where hotel manager Vova and expedition leader Adam gave a welcome. With briefing formalities concluded, it was time to join Captain Per in the bar to raise a glass in celebration of the voyage. Then, it was time for our first evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection provided by Chef Heinz and his galley team and served by our friendly dining room staff. After dinner, we were given our muck boots, which we would use for going ashore; they were comfortable but also, very importantly, waterproof for our wet Zodiac landings!

After a long day of travel for most of us, it was time for bed to get some rest. However, the day was not over yet. A blue whale was spotted around 9! The blue whale is the largest animal to have ever lived that we currently know of, and quite rare to see. It was quite a spectacular sight! With all this excitement, we ended our first day.

The morning began with our last mandatory safety briefing, the bear and Zodiac briefing in the lecture room. This was very important, as for most of us, this was the first time we got to experience the Arctic wilderness and all its potential dangers.

Meanwhile, we dropped anchor in Fjortende Julibukta, the 14th of July Bay. We went for our first Zodiac cruise in the morning, seeing our first kittiwakes, northern fulmars, and many puffins! We also saw a glaucus gull with chicks. This site is one of the best places to see puffins in Svalbard. Fjortende Julibukta is further known for its green landscape and big glacier front.

After our first Zodiac cruise, we had to leave since we still had some transit time to Ny- Ålesund, the scientific town and the most northern community in the world. m/v Ortelius was alongside the pier, which made it very easy for us: no waterproofs and boots by choice! At Ny-A Ålesund, we were allowed to freely roam around town, within the borders. It was immediately seen that the water looked quite red. This had to do with the local geology, with more iron-based minerals in the sediments, providing the water with a reddish hue.

The shop was opened for us, and we could all enjoy some retail therapy. We also saw the Amundsen bust, one of the most legendary explorers of all time. The Yellow River station, the Chinese base, is close to the bust, with two big lion statues in beautiful style next to it. We could see the historic remains of the zeppelin hangar from the town in the form of one big mast left.

For those of us who wanted a little walk, we could walk over to the working dogs used for all kinds of work, like sledding.

Near the dogs a chick of an Arctic tern could be spotted. It was interesting to see several scientists working during the afternoon. At 18:00, we were all back at the ship to hear the recap at 18:15. The plans for tomorrow were presented and afterwards Elisabeth told us a little bit more about the types of research that is being done at Ny-Ålesund.

Ready for the next day!

This morning, we woke up with a unique mix of excitement and calmness, eager for the day’s adventures. After a hearty breakfast, we all prepared to go ashore for a hike to the historic Texas Bar, a remote cabin with stories etched into its wooden walls. The crisp Arctic air invigorated our spirits as we set out, the landscape around us a stunning expanse of untouched beauty.

The hike was serene, surrounded by the raw, rugged beauty of the Arctic wilderness. We paused to take in the history and the spectacular views. The cabin, a relic of past explorers, stood as a testament to human resilience in these remote, challenging conditions.

After a delicious lunch, we boarded the Zodiacs to cruise to the famous Monacobreen Glacier. The journey on the water was mesmerizing, with the ice-blue glacier looming ahead like a frozen giant. As we approached, the sheer size and beauty of Monacobreen left us in awe. The sound of calving ice echoed through the fjord, and the sight of the glacier reflecting in the pristine waters was a memory we would cherish forever.

This all followed with a recap where Adam told us the plans for tomorrow – a day in the sea ice to look for polar bears! Then Charlotte, Simon and Juan filled us with facts and stories of what we saw today. We laughed and chatted over dinner, and then eased into the night in the bar as we started to become sleepy from the crisp, polar air and the day’s activities.

The fourth day of the trip began with a chance to sleep in!

Passengers woke up at 07:45 to expedition leader Adam’s soothing voice and ice scraping along the hulls of our good ol’ ship. The goal for the day is to spend time on the outside decks in search along the ice edge for wildlife, specifically polar bears. We had been waiting for the Norwegian Meteorological Institute to publish the most up-to-date ice chart for Svalbard and the surrounding areas. It would give us an idea of if it would be possible to reach the pack ice, an accumulation of drifting sea ice. The ice chart gives a numerical value depicting the sea surface covered by ice. To our delight, the current ice chart showed 70% ice and 30% water, represented by the color orange. This area was NE of our current position and started at latitude 81, longitude 015, a location achievable for MV Ortelius. Our ship is categorized as a polar ice class 6, meaning we can think of her more as an ‘ice pusher’ than an ‘ice breaker.’ Further north of the orange color on the ice chart, you see the color red. This means the sea is 90% ice and 10% water, a situation unachievable for Ortelius.

Our bridge team navigated the ship wonderfully to the ice edge, with an arrival at 01:00 under the beautiful midnight sun. The first sight for passengers was a horizon filled with multi-year ice flows intertwined with first-year ice, frazil ice, and melt ponds. We traveled an average of 2-3.5 knots, covering around eight nautical miles throughout the day. We took a searching break at 15:00 to rest our eyes and enjoyed hot chocolate on the top deck. The hot chocolate must have worked its magic because shortly after our break, the first bear of the trip was seen! Expedition guide Juan brilliantly spotted a bear on the ice behind an ice ridge. For the next hour and a half, everyone was dressed warmly, cameras in hand, on the outside decks watching our first polar bear walk along the ice. A bit of curiosity kicked in, and the bear came to get a closer view of the ship. All the guests stayed quiet on the decks watching the bear, but inside, we were cheering with excitement!

In the evening, we had a recap where the expedition team explained two subjects from our eventful day. First, Elizabeth presented how important the ice edge is for polar bears. She showed research conducted by the Norwegian Polar Institute, where they tracked bears using GPS and watched how female polar bears followed along the ice edge for most of the year. Annelou then presented the different types of sea ice. Today, the air temperature was 0C, and the seawater temperature was -2C, meaning we could see frazil ice forming, a phenomenon she discussed in her recap! Another eventful day onboard m/v Ortelius concluded with a tasty dinner in the dining room. More to come tomorrow!

We arrived at Phippsøya Island in the early morning. The weather was overcast but very calm, providing a serene and mystical ambiance as we disembarked. The stillness of the air and the soft, diffused light created an ethereal atmosphere perfect for exploring the island's natural beauty.

Our primary activity on Phippsøya was a guided walk to the bird cliffs, one of the island's most renowned features. The journey began with a stroll through the tundra, where we observed various plant species adapted to the harsh Arctic environment. Our guide provided insightful commentary on the flora and fauna, enhancing our appreciation of the island's ecosystem. The cliffs offered breathtaking views of the surrounding seascape, with the calm waters reflecting the island's rugged beauty. A stroll back to the landing site produced excellent views of Arctic skua and snow buntings, making this polar desert their home for the summer months.

After a satisfying morning on Phippsøya, we returned to our vessel for lunch and a brief rest. In the early afternoon, we embarked on a Zodiac cruise to explore the waters around Parryøya Island, specifically aiming to see the walrus population on a small island off the main island. The sea conditions remained calm, making for a smooth and pleasant ride. The overcast sky persisted, but occasional breaks in the clouds allowed glimpses of the sun, casting a soft glow on the ocean surface.

As we approached the small island near Parryøya, we were greeted by numerous walruses lounging on the rocky shore. The sheer size and presence of these majestic creatures were awe-inspiring. Our guide carefully maneuvered the Zodiac to maintain a respectful distance, ensuring we could observe without disturbing them. The walruses exhibited various behaviors, from basking in the sun to engaging in playful sparring matches. Their grunts and bellows added to the sensory landscape, providing a soundtrack to our observations, and when we drifted downwind, their ripe odors certainly completed the immersive experience! We learned about their social structures, feeding habits, and challenges due to climate change and diminishing sea ice.

Our day exploring Phippsøya and Parryøya Islands was filled with unforgettable moments and enriching experiences. The overcast weather did not diminish the beauty of the landscapes or the thrill of wildlife encounters. It also reminded us of the delicate balance of nature and the impact of human activity on these remote and fragile ecosystems. Our visit to Phippsøya and Parryøya will be cherished as a testament to the wonders of the Arctic and the profound experiences it offers to those who venture into it.

Today, we woke up to hear our beloved leader, Adam, informing us that it was yet another beautiful day outside, with sunshine, comfortable temperatures, and low wind.

We began the day with a zodiac cruise along the cliffs of Alkefjellet. This is a famous location in Svalbard where many nature documentary makers have come to film the spectacular seabird colony. The majority of the birds nesting here are Brunnich's guillemots, of which there are 60,000 breeding pairs at Alkefjellet. This site is one of 142 breeding sites for Brunnich's guillemots in Svalbard, and there are approximately 850,000 breeding pairs across the archipelago. We could also see nesting kittiwakes, black guillemots, fulmars, and glaucous gulls. We cruised along the bottom of the cliffs, admiring the incredible geology and rock formations and watching the birds interacting with each other.

Some boats were lucky to see a very distant Arctic fox right at the top of the slope. Foxes are often seen here as they take advantage of the guillemot chicks. When the chicks are ready to leave the nest, they will dramatically jump from the ledge that has been their home for around 20 days. The birds nesting near the sea can land straight in the water, but some land on the grassy slopes and then have to walk the rest of the way. This is when the foxes strike, and they will take chicks, adults, and eggs if they can reach them. Some of the Zodiacs got to watch a glaucous gull eating an unlucky guillemot.

At the end of the cruise, we could admire a glacier before heading back to the ship for lunch. After lunch, we began a cruise through Hinlopen Strait, a beautiful area where we hoped to see bears, walruses, and maybe even whales.

We spent a few hours watching the reflections of the landscape in the mirror calm sea, enjoying seeing walrus swimming and hauled out at Andreeneset, and little auks and guillemots bouncing on the water.

At around 4 pm, we saw what we had been hoping for. A polar bear was spotted on the Island of Von Otteroya. The crew began lowering the Zodiacs so that we could try to head closer to see the bear. We arrived in a bay and found the bear walking along the stoney beach. We watched from a distance until all the Zodiacs had arrived, and we began to slowly edge closer to the shoreline. We watched in silent amazement as the bear came to inspect us right at the edge of the beach. It was such a thrill to see this beautiful apex predator in its natural habitat, relaxing and lying down in front of us. It was an extremely special moment and one we will never forget. The bear stood up and began heading to the other side of the small outcrop. Arctic skuas were very upset by the bear's presence as it got closer to their nest site, and they started dive-bombing it.

We drove around the other side of the outcrop and watched the bear settle down for a long sleep. There were also three large male walruses relaxing on the beach, but the two large mammal species didn't seem to mind each other. Buzzing with excitement, we returned to the ship to find that the hotel crew had organized a barbeque for us on the helideck. We celebrated our fantastic and successful day by dancing the night away.

We started the day with a delectable breakfast onboard Ortelius, fuelling ourselves for the exciting adventures ahead. The expedition team assembled on the bridge, meticulously scouting the surroundings as we navigated toward Kapp Waldburg, hoping for a promising landing.
 

As we neared the bird cliffs of Kapp Waldburg, our plans shifted dramatically. To our delight, we spotted two majestic polar bears roaming along the rugged landscape. One bear, curious and unhurried, approached the coastline, offering us an unforgettable close-up view. We observed this magnificent creature respectfully, maintaining silence to ensure we did not disturb its natural behavior. After some time, the bear decided to rest, providing us with the perfect opportunity to continue our journey up the coast.

Our expedition then led us to a walrus haulout. The sight of these impressive marine mammals lounging in their natural habitat added to the morning’s remarkable experiences. We marveled at the walruses, appreciating the diversity of wildlife Svalbard offers.

After our fulfilling morning excursions, we returned to the Ortelius for a well-deserved lunch. The meal provided a moment to relax and reflect on the incredible wildlife encounters we had witnessed.

With the afternoon sun casting a golden glow, we set our sights on Kapp Lee. The expedition team went ashore to scout the area, their keen eyes soon discovering another polar bear in the distance. Excitement buzzed through the group as we prepared for another Zodiac cruise. We embarked on the Zodiacs, cruising along the coast to explore the historical huts and the walrus haulouts. Although the polar bear remained far away, the thrill of the chase and the beauty of the landscape made the experience memorable. The presence of the walruses added to the serene yet wild atmosphere of Kapp Lee.

As the day ended, we returned to m/v Ortelius to recap the day’s adventures. Sharing stories and highlights, the group relived the awe-inspiring moments, from the curious polar bear’s approach to the serene walrus sightings. Dinner was a delightful end to an extraordinary day in the Arctic wilderness. We retired to our cabins, eager for what the next day would bring, filled with the promise of more Arctic wonders and unforgettable experiences on this remarkable expedition cruise.

After a wake-up call from our expedition leader, Adam, the day continued with a delicious breakfast. After that, we went out on the outer decks and onto the bridge to enjoy the beauty of the Arctic and admire the wild animals living in this polar region.

As always, the first to greet us in the morning were birds: puffin, Northern fulmar, black-legged kittiwake, Brunnich guillemot, black guillemot, and Arctic skua. Today, our first destination was landing on Gnålodden. There is a trapper's hut, built by Norwegian trappers in 1907 because Hornsund had a reputation as a good hunting area for polar bears and Arctic foxes.

Wanny Woldstad, a woman from north Norway, lived here with her partner from 1932 to 1937. For two years, she also brought her two sons along.

The north side of central Hornsund is something like "Spitsbergen in a nutshell," with wild scenery with impressive mountains and glaciers, a bird cliff, and a lonely trapper hut in picturesque surroundings. We were lucky enough to spot a group of beluga whales from the land; it was quite a special encounter. At the end of our landing time, we were offered a polar plunge for those who were brave enough to swim in the iced cold water.

After our polar plunge, we returned to the ship to recharge our batteries and rest a little.

In the afternoon, we planned to land on the western side of Samarinvagen, but our landing was canceled due to a message from Slava, who was scouting and found a polar bear close to the landing site. It was already the sixth bear on our voyage! With this great news, we went on a Zodiac cruise to see the king of the Arctic, and it was combined with incredible navigation along Samarinbreen glacier, which was stunning. During our cruise, we learned a lot about the history, geology, biology, and glaciology of this remote Arctic region.

At 6.15 p.m., we had a daily recap and plans for tomorrow with our expedition leader, Adam, and the expedition team. After the recap, we were invited to a restaurant for a great dinner. Ready for the last full day tomorrow!

Today, we woke up to a blanket of fog surrounding our ship, a first for this trip, and we felt fortunate that it hadn't happened earlier. As we sipped our morning coffee, we waited for the fog to lift. During this time, Charlotte gave us a fascinating lecture on the Whales of the Arctic. She spoke about blue whales, which we were lucky enough to have seen, and introduced us to species we hadn't encountered, such as humpback whales.

Finally, the fog cleared, revealing a stunning view of Ingeborgfellet, our landing site for the afternoon. This beautiful mountain is home to a colony of little auks. Upon landing, we were surrounded by Svalbard Reindeer grazing on the vegetation, and we even caught a glimpse of an Arctic fox. The scenery was breathtaking, providing a perfect conclusion to our trip.

Back onboard, we showered and dressed up for the Captain's cocktail. We expressed our gratitude to the staff for the fantastic trip and were moved by the incredible slideshow Jess had created for us, which brought tears to our eyes. A plated dinner followed, and we thanked the crew for their hard work and dedication.

What a trip it has been! It will take quite some time to absorb all our amazing experiences.

After nine superb days, our Svalbard expedition was over, but the memories we had made will live with us forever. With our luggage left outside our cabins ready for the staff and crew to take down the gangway, we headed to breakfast. After saying goodbye to the dining room crew, we took our remaining belongings and disembarked onto the coal pier. There was just enough time to say farewell to the expedition team before we boarded the buses and left for our onward travel.

Thank you all for such a memorable voyage, for your company, good humour, enthusiasm, and patience when the weather decided we should do something different. We hope to see you again in the future, wherever that might be!

Northernmost position: 81°06.67’ N - 016°27.32’ E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Per Andersson, Expedition Leader Adam Burke, Hotel Manager Volodymyr ‘Vova’ Cherednychenko and all the crew and expedition staff, it has been a pleasure travelling with you! We look forward to seeing you again on one of our ships for another adventure.