OTL03-25, trip log, North Spitsbergen Explorer

The day had finally arrived. Our Arctic adventure aboard Ortelius was about to begin. Although the skies had been grey throughout the day, the sun made a perfectly timed appearance right as our guests began arriving at the dock in Longyearbyen around 4pm. One by one, they made their way up the gangway, greeted by sunshine and the fresh Arctic air.

After eagerly spending our first half hour exploring the ship and occasionally getting lost, we were welcomed aboard by Claudio, our Expedition Leader, along with Hotel Manager, William. As guests settled into their cabins, Captain Per was introduced and gave his signature cheers to every guest, setting a very warm tone for our journey ahead.

Once everyone was on board, we gathered for the mandatory safety drill. Wearing our lifejackets, we congregated at the muster station before heading up to the top deck. As Ortelius began to sail out of the harbour, northern fulmars accompanied us, gliding effortlessly beside the ship with their reflections dancing in the calm water. The sense of departure was real now, and excitement filled the air.

Dinner was our first meal together, and it did not disappoint. The dining room offered a generous buffet and enormous steaks that left many of us joking about the weight we were sure to gain by the end of the voyage. Laughter and conversation filled the room as we got to know our fellow travellers.

The evening continued downstairs in the lecture room with a boot party, where we picked up our rubber boots and enjoyed music and a little dancing to Hazel’s throwback hits from the 90s and early 2000s. The ship began to sway gently as we entered open water. The sun remained in the sky well into the night, but eventually we drew our blinds and turned in. With new friends around us, and adventure on the horizon, we drifted off with excitement in our eyes for what the coming days would bring.

This morning was our first wake-up call by our expedition leader Claudio. At 6:45AM he woke us up saying we were still sailing, but the weather was good, and we should be coming out to the decks to enjoy the beautiful Raudfjorden, the Red Fjord, that we were entering.

At 7:00AM Hotel manager William announced over the speakers that the door to the dining room on Deck 4 was open for our first breakfast on board. The choice was extensive from fresh fruits to yoghurts, cereal, bread and some warm dishes. Many of us had slept great for their first night on board as we had a smooth sailing overnight.

At 8:15AM we were all gathered in the bar on Deck 6 to join the Expedition Team for the introduction and MANDATORY Zodiac/Polar Bear Safety briefing. Halfway through, Claudio got interrupted by the team, who were scouting on the bridge. A mother polar bear and her two cubs had been spotted. They must have been born last year in January and got out of the den around March/April. They were roaming the coast along the fast ice, trotting along at quite a fast speed of a least five kilometres an hour. We went outside to have a sneak peak. When they’d disappeared behind some moraines, we quickly went back inside to finish the briefing to be ready for our landings and cruising the zodiacs during this trip. In the end we spent three hours out on the decks observing the polar bears in their natural habitat. The little ones were following mum, up and down the banks, swimming in front of the glacier back-to-back, and then rolled in the snow to get rid of as much water possible. Sliding down the slopes, finding a seal skin which they could still eat from. It was an amazing first morning on board MS Ortelius.

By 1PM it was time for lunch. We returned to the Restaurant on Deck 4, where another great buffet had been served. It was the perfect opportunity to refuel and socialise after the crazy morning we had out on deck.

In the afternoon, we arrived at Alicehamna. As our expedition leader Claudio already explained, we hardly stay with plan A. Being flexible would give us the best experiences. Around 2:30PM we boarded the zodiacs for the first time. Getting in line to go down the gangway and be shuttled to shore. The team had already been scouting for polar bears, so it would be safe for us to land. Just behind the landing site was a shallow lagoon with the most beautiful turquoise colour. This is where we spotted two Arctic Skuas, a pair of Long tailed ducks, some Arctic terns and a Purple Sandpiper wading through the icy water. We all followed a path up the hill called Brucevarden. At the top was a cairn with a grave from a skipper called Erick Zakariassen Mattilas, who died of scurvy in the spring of 1908 having overwintered at the main station here in Raudfjorden together with four others. The view from up here was priceless, overlooking the whole fjord decorated with glaciers. Getting back down we could have a look inside the Raudfjordhutta from a Swedish trapper named Sven Olssen. He built it in 1927. It was quite hard to imagine how he’d lived here, by himself winter after winter. Impressive!

At 6:15PM, the expedition team gathered us in the bar for the daily recap. We heard about the plans for tomorrow and Hazel shared her passion about the blue whales with us so we could understand a little more about the special mammal we saw yesterday. This was after Beth took the stage to enlighten us all about geology which she absolutely succeeded in.

By 7PM, it was time for dinner. We were served a plated dinner in the Dining Room, which offered the perfect conclusion to a day full of discovery and learning. As the evening unfolded, we sailed into beautiful Liefdefjorden, surrounded by snow-covered mountains, to go for anchor for the night. A few more photos, before we get into our cabins, already looking forward to tomorrow’s explorations.

We woke this morning to the most glorious day, bright sunshine, mild temperatures and no wind. The scenery was stunning all around us as our lovely ship, Ortelius was at anchor in front of the stunning Monacobreen glacier with its huge ice cliffs.

Some of us were up early to enjoy this amazing spectacle before breakfast, others got up with Claudio’s wakeup call and went straight to the dining room for another tasty meal to start the day.

After breakfast we were invited to join the expedition team for a zodiac cruise among the ice and to witness the scenery close up. We were excited to see our first bearded seal of the trip followed by another two shortly afterwards. We saw a number of seabirds; common eider, black guillemot and Arctic tern to name a few.

We were stunned by the beauty of the ice close up and enjoyed the silence of the natural surroundings. It was a beautiful morning! The best was yet to come when a polar bear was spotted in the distance. The zodiacs gathered at the required minimum distance and we all got to see the bear as it made its way across the bay.

We got back to the ship just in time for lunch and enjoyed another super buffet, followed by some time to relax and enjoy the surroundings.

It was then time for us to get dressed in our outdoor clothing again and to enjoy another landing. This time to an area called Texas Bar, a very beautiful location with a beach, some hills with fantastic views and an old trapper’s hut which is still used as a shelter for those venturing out from Longyearbyen.

The afternoon was spent exploring this beautiful area with the sound of geese and seabirds nesting in the cliffs above but there was some excitement to end the landing with the polar plunge. Some hardy souls decided to throw themselves into the icy water for fun!

Once back on board Ortelius it only got more exciting as another polar bear was seen on the opposite shore. We watched as the bear moved along the shoreline and then went into hunting mode as it stalked and then ran at a small group of reindeer. Needless to say, the reindeer were too fast and the bear went without a meal this time.

Instead we went for another great dinner in the restaurant followed by a late recap and plans for tomorrow followed by a well earned rest! What a day!

Claudio’s voice came over the PA system awakening us to quite a different day from the previous. Snow lined the railings, the Seven Islands came and went from visibility. We steadily made our way through the gap between Phippsøya and Parryøya to our Anchorage in Isflakbukta for the ice floe bay. This proved very appropriate today as the fast ice clung to the shore, creating a thin potentially fragile crust that prevented us from reaching the beach outstretched beyond.

Two zodiacs and four guides headed out to investigate two nearby islands in search of life to wallowing on the shores. However, the visibility was reducing as the snow was becoming heavier to the decision was made to take the opportunity to head north towards the pack ice!

We had approximately 70 nautical miles to go which meant it could still be reached before dinner, so off we went, back through the islands and northbound towards the expanse of ice stretching from the most northern region of our planet.

Whilst we were underway, Matt introduced us to photography in the Artic region, providing some tips and letting us know of what he would offer in the coming days. Following this we had few moments of sharing from a kind photographer amongst the guests.

Many people enjoyed some time to catch up on sleep after an exciting few days where the constant fear of missing something keeps our minds from resting and allowing us to retreat to bed in the endless daylight.

Hazel filled us in on some very desirable information having had so many wonderful polar bear sightings the last few days. We really have seen it all from cubs with their mother, a hunting bear in the brash ice and a bear swimming for long distances. It was hard to imagine what could be next! Hazel’s lecture answered many of our questions and gave a better insight into the life of these apex predators which roam the high latitudes of the north.

We had an early recap while we were still at sea before reaching the ice. Just as we were wrapping up there was a call over the radio that we were coming to the first of the sea ice and a polar bear had been spotted! Some rushed out on deck while others grabbed jackets and cameras.

Lenses pointed towards a bear which lay on the ice. It stood up and walked towards its catch – a seal of some kind – not easy to make it out given the skinned state it was in! We watched the bear for nearly 2 hours before backing off and taking the time for our own dinner. Later we returned and spent the evening with this incredible bear sighting. There really isn’t much more we can ask for in terms of polar bear observations!

Following the excitement of the previous evening, Ortelius spent the night slowly cruising in a south-westerly direction, along the edge of the pack ice. The bridge officers and their assistants kept a watchful eye on the ice, hoping to find another Polar Bear. Alas, the night passed without any further sightings.

We awoke to a beautiful day in the high Arctic, with a thin veil of cloud diffusing the harsh sunlight. The pack ice off our starboard side stretched all the way to the horizon. It was a beautiful sight. Just as breakfast was coming to an end, Captain Per turned Ortelius to starboard and with great excitement we entered the ice. Although we had done so briefly the night before to enjoy the Polar Bear sighting, this time we kept going, deeper and deeper into a magical, beautiful world of ice which left everyone spell bound.

Guests, expedition staff and bridge crew scoured the icy horizon for signs of life. The scale of the challenge became quickly apparent as we strained our eyes in a bid to identify anything that looked different to the surrounding expanse of ice. Many icy shapes that resembled bears and seals were spotted, creating brief spells of excitement, but they all proved to be false alarms. As the morning wore on, the wildlife continued to elude us and we headed off to lunch without seeing anything other than some birds, such as Ivory gulls, Little auks, Kittiwakes and Brünnich’s guillemots.

At 11AM, many of us went to the bar to attend a lecture about sea ice by Expedition Guide Beth. This was extremely pertinent since we were all enjoying the extraordinary privilege of being in the pack ice. That’s less than 540 miles from the North Pole! This is a rapidly vanishing world, which some climatologists are predicting could be gone as soon as 2040. It is unfathomable to think that the habitat on which so many iconic Arctic species depend, will soon be gone. With the Arctic warming 2-3 three times faster than anywhere else on Earth, it is an inevitable and heart-breaking fact that the Arctic Ocean will become ice-free in as little as 15 years. What a privilege it was to be here!

After lunch, the search continued as Ortelius pressed on, deeper into the ice. Her strong hull meeting the heavy ice-floes head on and pushing them aside with ease. We admired the skillful and gentle manner in which Captain Per and his officers guided the ship through the ice, taking great care not to smash up the precious floes on which Polar Bears and seals depend. From time-to-time heavier floes rocked our mighty ship, as she “bounced” off them and steadily worked her way ahead.

At 3:30PM, Expedition Guide Martin invited us to join him in the bar for a lecture about the Birds of Svalbard. Since the only wildlife that had showed itself in the pack ice today was several species of birds, it was a great opportunity to learn more about those that inhabit this hostile region of the planet. Martin’s excellent talk coincided with the arrival of the daily delivery of freshly baked goodies for afternoon tea, which we enjoyed as the Arctic pack-ice glided silently by the windows.

The wildlife remained elusive. So much so that many expressed surprise that we had not seen any marine mammals. But the Arctic Ocean is some 5.4 million square miles in size, and finding individual animals in that vast wilderness is always a colossal challenge. It requires an enormous amount of luck, and the lack of wildlife today highlighted just how fortunate we were with our Polar Bear encounter the previous evening.

At the evening briefing Expedition Leader Claudio shared the plans for the next day, and some of the expedition team reviewed a few highlights from the day. Then it was time to don multiple layers of warm clothing and head out to the helicopter deck for a tasty barbecue prepared by the hotel department. It was a novel and unforgettable experience, with a wonderful world of ice all around us. With everyone well fed, the tables and seating were cleared away, and the dancing started. The high spirits and party atmosphere continued for several hours.

After a well-deserved sleep in following our late evening barbeque under the Arctic sky, we woke to a soft, overcast morning. Thankfully, we had made our way out of the pack ice overnight. While enjoying our first sips of tea and coffee, Hazel spotted a fin whale in the distance through her binoculars. Though brief, the sighting was a lovely way to start the day, and we took the morning at a relaxed pace over a warm breakfast.

Later in the morning, we gathered for a photography workshop hosted by Matt and Claudio. The session was a real highlight as each guest had the chance to share their ice photography compositions from the ship. These ranged from sweeping wide angles to detailed close ups. The creativity and variety among everyone’s photos were both impressive and inspiring. It was not only a chance to learn more about technique but also a great moment to appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of each person’s perspective.

Following this, Saskia gave an engaging and informative talk on the Sir Hubert Wilkins’ Nautilus Expedition. Her storytelling brought history to life and sparked many conversations about early polar exploration and the incredible courage of those pioneers.

In the afternoon, we set out on a zodiac cruise in the stunning Waggonwaybreen area of Magdalenefjord. The conditions were brilliant and bathed in sunshine casting a surreal glow over the calm waters. The scenery was nothing short of spectacular. Wildlife seemed to appear at every turn, from the fluttering presence of little auks and guillemots to the high climbing Svalbard reindeer and clusters of eiders along the shore. The glacier was the centrepiece of the experience, its deep blue tones and cracking ice echoing across the fjord in dramatic soundscapes.

Back on board, we were treated to a delicious a la carte dinner that capped off the day’s activities in fine style. As the evening settled in, we had a late recap session before gathering to watch the captivating documentary OCEAN by David Attenborough. With every passing day, the expedition seems to grow richer. We are all fully immersed and loving every minute of this journey through the high Arctic.

This morning, Ortelius keeps heading south towards Prins Karls Forland, which was one of the very first parts of Spitsbergen seen by Willem Barentsz in June 1596 and explored by Scottish polar explorer William Speirs Bruce from 1906 - 1909. We planned to do a landing at Poolepynten. It has lots of lagoon landscapes, drift wood on its northern side and Walruses are always hauled-out at the beach. A hut used by Svalbard coast guard stands at the end of the east coast and 550m west from the huts. There is a “official” plastic trash sampling baseline field for scientist to study the amount of rubbish and fishing nets that have been washed onshore.

It’s been foggy since early morning like it is always in summertime. Visibility always comes and goes, and many reindeer are busy feeding on the upper plain south of the coast after the heavy snow melts. Various arctic terns start to feed and fly around the drift wood searching for good shelter for their upcoming breeding season.

After the expedition team’s scouting, all passengers were divided into 2 groups taking turns to have a close view of snoring walruses.

In the afternoon we sailed together to Alkhornet. This landing site boasts a lot of wildlife. Thousands of Kittiwakes nesting on the cliff, Reindeers feeding in front of us without any stress, Geese and Snow buntings flying around us, and a group of Belugas just passing by Ortelius before we landed. The beautiful landscape makes us just want to sit for few hours and soak it all in.

At the end of the day, Captain Per and Expedition Leader, Claudio hosted the farewell cocktail with everyone.

A trip slide show was made by the team to mark this special memory, and with this trip log, we hope we all had a good time together. It is not a goodbye but more of a see you soon, hope you get back to home safe and one day wish we will meet in another part of the world.

The time had come for us to say goodbye and leave the ship that had been our home during this unforgettable journey around Svalbard. After days filled with adventure, wildlife sightings and breathtaking Arctic scenery, we returned to where it all began, in Longyearbyen.

After enjoying one last breakfast together, we disembarked the beautiful Ortelius at 9AM. Emotions ran high as we embraced the Ortelius family and said our farewells. The connections formed during the voyage made it difficult to say goodbye to the team who had guided, supported and shared this experience with us.

Our suitcases had already been placed on the dock, ready to be collected. With bags in hand and memories to last a lifetime, we stepped off the pier and onto the buses into town. Some of us continued on to new travels, while others began the journey home, each carrying a part of the Arctic with us.