HDS03-25, trip log, North Spitsbergen Explorer

The remote frontier of Longyearbyen stirred with quiet anticipation as many of us arrived on the very day our adventure was set to begin. By afternoon, the stillness of the bay was punctuated by the hum of activity—luggage was whisked from the quay to the Hondius, anchored at the pier of Longyearbyen, waiting like a steel sentinel in the icy waters.

By 4PM, excitement buzzed through the brisk Arctic air. A line of eager guests had gathered, eyes bright with the promise of wilder rides lay ahead.

Once aboard the Hondius, time seemed to slip by unnoticed. Between orientation briefings, safety drills, receiving our Muck boots, welcome cocktails with our charismatic Captain Jan, and a beautifully prepared first dinner, the hours melted away. Yet as we cast off and the vessel carved a path out of Isfjord, the true wonder began to unfold.

Bathed in the soft glow of the Arctic evening, Spitsbergen’s flat-topped mountains stood like ancient fortresses along the fjord. We were finally on our way—northward into the raw heart of the wilderness, where ice met sky and the silence held secrets millions of years old.

Late in the evening suddenly a towering mist spout appeared—a blue whale. We rushed to the deck, barely believing our eyes.

The whale surfaced again, its massive back gliding through the light. At up to 30 meters long and weighing around 200 tons, it’s the largest animal ever to have lived. We watched in awe as it exhaled with a deep, resonant blow before arching its body and raising its enormous tail high above the sea. It dove, then surfaced again a few more times, always leaving us breathless. The stillness of the Arctic made each encounter feel otherworldly. That evening, beneath the endless sun, we met a true giant—and the memory stayed with us long after the ripples had faded.

Our voyage had truly begun.

After a good big breakfast we boarded the zodiacs for what can only be described as a perfectly sunny, blue and windless day. The morning light on the glacier shown its true colors and it was obvious that this was a special morning. As we cruised away from the ship we noticed that the hillside in front of us was dotted with no less than 20 reindeer grazing on the slopes. We could see their movements with the naked eye, not needing binoculars to witness these animals in their natural habitat. Puffins accompanied up, not on in the air, but on the water as we slowly cruised the fjord. Their colors in this sunny environment showed us the magnificent details and colors they adorned. If that wasn’t enough a bearded seal was sunning itself on an ice flow in front of the glacier with the same contentment as we had on this fine morning. The time flew by, and too soon it was time to head back to the ship for lunch. We didn’t want the morning to end.

Everyone was excited about the afternoon landing after hearing about all the hiking possibilities from our Expedition Leader. The weather was so warm and sunny, jackets and layers needed to be stripped, sunscreen applied generously and sunglasses were a must. Some of us headed off on an extended hike, while some of chose to beach-comb and take a slower paced walk to the historical hut and take in the views. A group of enthusiastic birders set off with our resident bird expert - they returned with incredible photos and ear-to-ear smiles on their faces. A group of us wanted the best of both worlds and set up the snowy sloped for what turned out to be a grand view of Mollerfjord, but with time to take a breathe and reflect. It was an incredible day all in all. We returned to the ship for a short briefing for the next day by the Expedition Leader, recaps from the guides and a well deserved dinner.

This morning’s weather made it hard to believe we were in the Arctic at all. Sunscreen and sun hats were advised for those joining the hikes at Texas Bar. It was a bomby 8 degrees or so, some sparce clouds, and a light wind blowing off the nearby glacier – perfect weather for a hike. Guests were given the option of long, medium, and short hikes with the potential use of snowshoes, should they need. On the medium birding hike with Meike, we saw barnacle and pink footed geese, a male ptarmigan, fulmar, arctic skua, snow bunting, arctic tern, a purple sandpiper, and hundreds of nesting kittiwakes high in the mountain. In addition to the birds, we found an old-style fox trap, learned about the geology from a fellow guest geologist, Chris, and saw much evidence of the reindeer that frequent the area. When all hikers returned to the beach, it was time to cool off and what better way than to plunge into the frigid arctic waters! Approximately 30 guests went in for a dip.

The blue skies and sunshine continued for us into the afternoon as we cruised along stunning Monacobreen and nearby Seligerbreen. The water was like glass as the Zodiacs danced their way through the bergy bits in front of the glacier and navigated their way through the brash ice that glittered like diamonds in the water. Aside from the popping of ice, all that could be heard were the plentiful kittiwakes and arctic terns calling out to each other among the ice. A visit from two bearded seals, one on ice and one swimming, was nice – but another visitor was even more welcome… The floating bar serving hot apple cider and rum! A calving of the Monaco glacier and a glimpse of a minke whale made the excursion complete as we made our way back to M/V Hondius.

What an incredible and eventful day we had today, our fourth day truly immersed in the Arctic. Our morning began with eager anticipation, as we planned to Zodiac cruise along Alkefjellet, one of the Arctic's most dramatic seabird cliffs, famed for its towering basalt walls and a staggering 60,000 breeding pairs of Brünnich's guillemots.

After a buffet breakfast, we were ready to head to the Zodiac loading area. However, the Arctic had other plans for us. Unfortunately, due to sea ice that had drifted right to the site, the bird cliff became unreachable for our Zodiacs. It was certainly a pity, especially for the many keen birders onboard, as this colony is a true spectacle. But even from a distance, the scenery was still absolutely magnificent, proving that the Arctic always delivers stunning views, even when plans change.

Undeterred, we then sailed to Faksevågen for our much-anticipated afternoon of exploration on land! The weather was great – overcast but not a breath of wind, making for ideal hiking conditions. Everyone had a choice, and the groups fanned out to explore this beautiful side bay in Lomfjord. The short hikers enjoyed leisurely strolls along the beach, taking in the serene coastal views. The medium hikers ventured up into the rolling hills, discovering the fine tundra, bird life and interesting geology. And for those seeking a challenge, the long hikers pushed high up to a mountain ridge, even encountering some deep snow higher up!

As the afternoon transitioned into evening, and we began sailing north again, the Arctic delivered an unexpected thrill! A collective gasp went through the ship as we spotted a sleeping polar bear in the distance! Even though it was quite far away, the sheer excitement of seeing this magnificent creature in its natural habitat was palpable. It was a truly exhilarating moment for everyone on board.

We rounded off this fantastic day with a lively recap in the bar, sharing stories of our hikes and the polar bear sighting. A delightful plated dinner was then served, followed by our nightly wildlife list with Meike, recounting all the incredible sightings from our day.

Today was a perfect example of Arctic exploration – full of unexpected turns, slight disappointments, but ultimately overwhelming beauty and unforgettable wildlife encounters.

We certainly kept our spirits warm today, embracing every moment of this remarkable journey!

After breakfast, excitement filled the air as the expedition staff informed us of a landing on a vast, solid sheet of sea ice. The crew quickly sprang into action, setting up a secure perimeter to ensure our safety. With the Hondius gently nestled beside the ice, the gangway was lowered, and we stepped down—one by one—onto the frozen world below.

It was surreal to stand on the very surface of the Arctic Ocean. Soon, we took turns in small groups, exploring the icy expanse, snapping photos, and soaking in the surreal landscape. Many of us couldn’t resist reverting to childhood—making snow angels, staging snowball fights, and laughing like kids again in this pristine, frozen playground.

Once everyone had their moment on the ice, we returned to the ship for a well-earned lunch. As we resumed our journey through the maze of ice floes, the bridge became a popular spot. We kept our eyes peeled for wildlife, hoping for a glimpse of the elusive polar bear. Tracks teased us now and then—ghostly prints on the ice hinting at nearby presence—but no bear revealed itself.

In the afternoon, we gathered for a fascinating lecture by our onboard ice expert, Jakub. He spoke passionately about the ice around Svalbard—its structure, importance, and alarming rate of melting. The presentation took a sobering turn as Jakub highlighted the broader implications of climate change, urging us to reflect on what we had witnessed with our own eyes.

Later, the day took a festive turn as the crew prepared a special Arctic barbecue on the outer decks. With music playing, free drinks flowing, and the frozen seascape around us, the atmosphere was unforgettable. Laughter echoed across the ship as we enjoyed delicious food under the open sky. The livelier among us danced well into the evening, swaying to classic tunes from ABBA and Whitney Houston, the icy backdrop glowing in the soft Arctic light.

What a unique and magical day—an experience none of us will ever forget.

We awoke to the gentle hum of the engines beneath us and the endless white stretching out beyond our windows. Not long after, Captain Jan took the helm and carefully maneuvered Hondius back into the heart of the pack ice. The sea had frozen into a vast, silent desert—flat floes of ice broken by ridges and pressure lines, disappearing into a silver-blue horizon. The stillness was broken only by the distant call of ivory kittiwakes and the occasional crack of shifting ice.

After breakfast, we gathered in the lecture room where Charlotte transported us deeper into the world of the polar bear—Ursus maritimus, the apex predator of the Arctic. We learned about their incredible adaptations: a thick layer of blubber for insulation, black skin beneath transparent fur to absorb sunlight, and an acute sense of smell—capable of detecting seals from over a kilometer away. Though we hadn’t seen one yet, we felt as if we knew the bear personally.

Then, just after lunch, came the moment we’d been waiting for. An announcement crackled over the PA: the expedition team had spotted a polar bear—700 meters away on solid ice, partially veiled in the Arctic fog. Excitement surged through the ship. The ice edge was nearby, and Captain Jan expertly navigated Hondius alongside it, stopping the vessel when we were closest to the bear.

And then, the magic unfolded.

Out of the mist, the bear came forward—a young male, perhaps four or five years old. He moved with cautious curiosity, large paws silently padding across the ice. His creamy fur glowed against the pale blue ice, and he paused often, raising his head, sniffing the air, eyes locked on us. For over thirty minutes, he watched us—and we watched him. Time felt suspended. Cameras clicked softly, but mostly we stood in reverent silence, hearts thudding.

Eventually, he turned and wandered off, choosing a quiet patch of ice to rest. The awe lingered in the air long after we left him alone.

We celebrated that afternoon with a cheerful happy hour and a summer solstice quiz hosted by Brenya. The dining room buzzed with laughter and stories, and after dinner, a calm settled over the ship. Photos of our polar bear were passed around, each frame a precious memory from a day when the wild Arctic gave us its most iconic gift.

Our final full day in the Arctic greeted us with calm seas and majestic peaks as we sailed into Magdalenenfjord—one of Svalbard’s most picturesque and storied inlets. Steep mountain ridges framed the fjord, while shimmering glaciers cascaded down to the sea. The early light gave the landscape a quiet glow, and anticipation was high as we prepared for our landing.

We stepped ashore at Gravneset, a site steeped in Arctic history. Here lie the weathered remains of 17th-century whaling graves—silent reminders of the era when European whalers hunted bowhead whales in these icy waters. Over 130 graves are scattered here, protected today as a cultural heritage site. As we stood among them, we reflected on the harsh lives and uncertain fates of those early explorers.

After our walk, we boarded the zodiacs and glided through the still waters of the fjord. Near rocky outcrops, common seals basked in the sun, their heads popping up with cautious curiosity as we passed. The cruise led us all the way to Waggonwaybreen glacier, whose icy front loomed quietly before us. Though it wasn’t calving today, the waters around it were filled with ancient ice—sculpted chunks that had broken off long ago. Some were crystal-clear, others shimmering deep blue, shaped into surreal, jagged forms. These floating ice sculptures, centuries old, told their own frozen stories and added an otherworldly atmosphere to our cruise.

In the afternoon, we set out again, this time to Gullybukta, a sheltered bay where a haul-out of walrus awaited. The massive marine mammals were lolling on the beach in true walrus fashion—grunting, jostling, and occasionally dozing in ungainly piles. We learned that male walrus can weigh up to 1,500 kilograms and use their tusks not only for defense but to haul their bulk onto ice. Their social antics and sheer size were a joy to witness up close, a perfect blend of comedy and awe. We continued the cruise and were lucky enough to find some King Eider ducks and an Arctic Fox. What a grand finale!

As the day drew to a close, we gathered in the lounge for the Captain’s Cocktail. The slideshow of our journey played across the screen—polar bears on the ice, seabirds in flight, glaciers, sunsets, and laughter shared. Chef Ralph treated us to a final plated dinner, a culinary tribute to a voyage none of us would soon forget.

What a perfect end to our Arctic adventure. Magdalenenfjord gave us beauty, history, wildlife—and the memories to carry home.

Kayaking Triplog

As the days unfold along the northwest coast of Spitzbergen, the landscape continues to astonish -both in its stark beauty and in its raw, unpredictable power. This week, we threated our kayak through narrow sea passages and beneath natural rock arches, the stone curving above us like ancient cathedrals sculpted by wind and tide, Shallow waters glittered beneath our hull, revealing volcanic beds of black rock and patches of orange and brown kelp that moved like breath under the sea.

We paddled through confined spaces, the kayak gliding between spires and jagged walls where puffins and guillemots nest in impossible ledges. There’s something primal about moving through a landscape that feels so newly born and yet eternally old -where fire once forged the cliffs and ice still shapes the shore.

Wildlife has met us every turn.

Harbour seals tracked us with curious eyes, bobbing near our bow and following silently as we made our way through the waters of Magdalena fjord. Their presence felt almost companionable- inquisitive, but gentle – a kind of quiet communion between species.

More than anything, this journey has created a bond among us. Paddling through this landscape -exposed, cold, sometimes tired, but always moved- brings people together in a way few other experiences can.

We have become a small team bound by effort, shared awe, and the rhythm of paddles slicing through polar waters.

In the soft light of early morning, we arrived in Longyearbyen. As we gathered for one final breakfast on board, there was a quiet sense of reflection in the air. Outside, the crew gently unloaded our suitcases, a silent reminder that our Arctic adventure was drawing to a close.

Disembarking from Hondius was not easy. Over these past days, she has been far more than a ship—she’s been our shelter, our launchpad into the wild, and our floating home. Within her walls we’ve shared laughter, awe, and moments that will stay with us for a lifetime.

Together, we ventured deep into the high latitudes, witnessed landscapes sculpted by ice and time, and encountered wildlife most only dream of—polar bears, walrus, whales, and the mesmerizing dance of seabirds in the Arctic skies. Along the way, strangers became companions, and companions became friends.

Now, with hearts full and cameras brimming, we begin the journey home. Though we leave the ice behind, its spirit travels with us—etched into memory, carried in stories, and felt in quiet, unforgettable moments.

Thank you for joining us on this remarkable voyage. Your curiosity, warmth, and camaraderie made this journey truly special. Wherever your path leads next, we hope it brings you back to these wild places—and perhaps, one day, back to us.

Until we meet again—safe travels, and fair winds.