HDS02-25, trip log, North Spitsbergen Explorer

The remote frontier of Longyearbyen stirred with quiet anticipation as many of us arrived on the very day our adventure was set to begin. By afternoon, the stillness of the bay was punctuated by the hum of activity—luggage was whisked from the quay to the Hondius, anchored at the pier of Longyearbyen, waiting like a steel sentinel in the icy waters.

By 4 PM, excitement buzzed through the brisk Arctic air. A line of eager guests had gathered, eyes bright with the promise of wilder rides lay ahead.

Once aboard the Hondius, time seemed to slip by unnoticed. Between orientation briefings, safety drills, receiving our Muck boots, welcome cocktails with our charismatic Captain Jan, and a beautifully prepared first dinner, the hours melted away. Yet as we cast off and the vessel carved a path out of Isfjord, the true wonder began to unfold.

Bathed in the soft glow of the Arctic evening, Spitsbergen’s flat-topped mountains stood like ancient fortresses along the fjord. We were finally on our way—northward into the raw heart of the wilderness, where ice met sky and the silence held secrets millions of years old.

Our voyage had truly begun.

Our first full day of exploration in the High Arctic offered a stunning introduction to the raw beauty and unique wildlife of Svalbard. In the morning, under calm and mirror-like sea conditions, we found ourselves cruising beneath the towering face of Lilliehöökbreen, a mighty glacier that spills into Lilliehöökfjord. This impressive tidewater glacier stretches approximately 7 kilometers across and is fed by multiple ice flows from the interior of Spitsbergen. Its immense, crevassed face glowed in the soft Arctic light, and the stillness of the morning was occasionally broken by the crack and splash of a small calving event—a thrilling reminder of the glacier’s constant, if slow, transformation.

Guests enjoyed Zodiac cruises among small icebergs and floating brash ice, where we encountered a bearded seal resting on an ice floe. Bearded seals, with their distinctive long whiskers and square-shaped heads, are well-adapted to Arctic life, often favoring areas of drifting pack ice where they feed on bottom-dwelling organisms such as clams and crabs. Their calm demeanor made for wonderful viewing and photography opportunities.

Meanwhile, our sea kayakers took to the water for the first time this voyage, navigating the icy fjord with excitement and curiosity. After fitting their drysuits and adjusting gear, they enjoyed a gentle and scenic paddle—a perfect initiation into Arctic kayaking.

In the afternoon, the ship repositioned to Camp Zoe, where we landed by Zodiac for our first hike ashore. Despite a chilly and overcast atmosphere, spirits remained high as guests split into fast, medium, and leisurely walking groups to explore the tundra landscape. The terrain offered surprises and moments of contemplation: the remains of an Arctic fox still in its winter coat, the skull of a reindeer, tracks in the soil, and early-season flowers hinting at the brief Arctic summer to come. One group, led by Meike and Brian, paused to appreciate a few minutes of Arctic silence, surrounded by wind, wilderness, and the stark beauty of Svalbard.

A memorable start to our expedition—filled with awe, discovery, and the quiet magic only the Arctic can provide.

Kayaking Triplog

Our first morning of kayaking! After a briefing aboard the Hondius and a quick introduction on how to handle a paddle, we loaded into the zodiac, driven by Paolo, and set off toward the glacier.

The sky was overcast, but the absence of wind made for ideal conditions—perfect for a first session and a chance to focus on technique. Once everyone had learned how to enter and exit their kayak from the zodiac, we slipped quietly onto the water.

We kept a safe distance from the glacier’s face, but still had the chance to paddle among small icebergs drifting nearby. The glacier itself is massive—its volume alone rivals that of the entire Alpine glacier system. In the distance, we could hear the deep, resonant cracks of the ice shifting—a powerful reminder that the glacier is alive and always moving.

In the afternoon, we boarded the zodiac again with Paolo and set off for a new kayaking session, this time along the rugged cliffs of Generalhallet. Our goal: to quietly explore the coastline, searching for seabirds—and perhaps even seals.

As we paddled along the shore, we spotted several Brünnich’s guillemots and a few puffins flying low over the water. Meltwater from snow and glacial ice poured into the sea through small torrents along the cliffs, rich with nutrients that feed the plankton—the very foundation of the Arctic food chain. With fish likely nearby, we soon had the chance to observe several curious seals watching us as intently as we were watching them.

We paddled past snow-covered mountains, along low cliffs interspersed with pebble beaches. The coastline revealed itself gradually, with small headlands hiding what lay ahead. Paolo kept a watchful eye—not just to guide us, but to ensure no polar bears were roaming nearby.

In total, we covered about 7 km. It was our first real immersion in this wild polar environment. From the seat of a kayak, you don’t just witness the Arctic—you become part of it.

At the end of the session, we landed near a small trapper’s cabin, a perfect spot to stretch our legs and take in a different perspective of the route we had just explored. Another layer of this Arctic adventure revealed itself—this time, with our feet on solid ground.

We were awoken in the morning by our expedition leader Chris inviting us to seize the day. There was a little change of plans due to fog at our planned activity site so we would be moving to another call Mushamna, a location featuring a large cabin and more importantly huge amounts of snow. Chris informed us that this would be the perfect opportunity to attempt to snowshoe!

The landing was split into two, first the long and short hikers went ashore and started their hike. A little while later the medium hikers came ashore and were given the opportunity to grab snowshoes. After a little instruction all groups went on great hikes either through the snow or along the beach. At the end a few brave souls took part in the traditional polar plunge and dove into the freezing waters of the Arctic. It was a beautiful morning and over time the sun started to peak out through the clouds. We then all loaded back into our zodiacs and reembarked the ship for a quick lunch.

Whilst we ate the ship relocated to our next location called Texas Bar, a location with a small cabin used for holidaying in the Arctic. Here we would conduct a zodiac cruise of the huge fjord and see what we could find. In the distance we could see the glacier Monacobreen in shades of blue at the back of the fjord and just as we were launching a minke whale was spotted in the distance. The zodiacs took off in their pairs searching for wildlife and were successful. The species spotted included the minke whale, bearded seal, king eiders, reindeer and guillemots. The fjord was as still as glass and we could see beautiful reflections of the ship and the mountains. It all felt extremely peaceful.

During our cruise we also had a nice surprise, tucked away in a corner we came across part of the hotel team in a zodiac. Hotel manager Albert, chef Ralph and receptionist Judel had brought us a special treat… hot chocolate! We all got ourselves a nice warm glass of hot chocolate, come with a little extra flavour of a shot of rum. It was a wonderful way to celebrate a great day in Svalbard. All too soon it was time to head back to the ship in time for recap. Our expedition team gave us some short presentations on the things we have seen and then it was time to go to dinner.

Kayaking Triplog

We began the morning by heading out with Paolo in the zodiac and launching our kayaks near the beach and landing site, where an old trapper’s cabin still stands. Nearby, a wooden structure once used for storing meat out of reach of polar bears—while also attracting them—serves as a haunting reminder of the past. It allowed trappers to lure the bears and hunt them more easily.

We set our course south along the coast, aiming to find the entrance to a small lagoon we hoped would be accessible despite the lingering ice. Luck was on our side—we found our way in, and were soon greeted by the sight of numerous common eiders taking flight as we approached.

The surface of the water was glassy calm, like a mirror reflecting the stillness of the Arctic morning. We paused for a few moments, letting the silence and atmosphere sink in. It was one of those rare moments where time seems to slow down.

Leaving the lagoon, we continued paddling along the coastline toward cliffs where large numbers of kittiwakes were nesting. Their unmistakable calls echoed around us, breaking the silence in a uniquely Arctic way.

After covering around 7 km, we returned to the zodiac. Paolo brought us back gently to the Hondius, wrapping up another beautiful morning on the water.

This afternoon, we are not far from the Monaco Breen glacier—but the sea is frozen over, making it impossible to approach the glacier by kayak. So we board the zodiac with Paolo, who drops us near the entrance to a partially frozen lagoon.

We launch our kayaks and begin exploring the area, weaving our way through chunks of ice and slushy patches. We paddle along the coast toward the trapper’s cabin at Texas Bar, navigating through a fascinating geological landscape. The rocks here display a rich palette of colors and complex folds—testimony to the geological history of the Arctic.

The ice thickens as we continue, but our kayaks glide surprisingly well through the frozen maze. Passing between two small islands, we suddenly find ourselves in front of a solid stretch of ice that has closed off the passage. It’s clear that we won’t get much further without Paolo’s help breaking a path.

We follow behind the zodiac, but with no passengers on board, even it struggles to make progress. Eventually, despite our best efforts, we’re completely blocked by the ice. Laughter breaks out as we find ourselves well and truly stuck—an unforgettable (and surprisingly fun) Arctic experience.

The only solution is to reboard the zodiac. With all of us on board, the extra weight helps it push through the ice, and we manage to escape the frozen trap. Waiting for us is Albert the hôtel manager and the ship’s head chef, who has brought a warm, comforting treat—delicious hot chocolate, just what we needed after our icy adventure. Paolo then brings us safely back to the Hondius.

We awoke this morning buzzing with anticipation—today was the day we’d cruise the towering cliffs of Alkefjellet by Zodiac. Fortune favored us with calm seas and a soft Arctic light as we boarded our boats and motored toward one of nature’s most staggering bird spectacles: the nesting grounds of some 60,000 pairs of Brünnich’s Guillemots.

As we neared the cliffs, we slowed to a near crawl, the water around us teeming with life. Thousands of Guillemots floated and dove like dancers in a dark sea ballet—wings whirring, beaks flashing. Approaching the cliffs felt like slipping inside a living beehive; the sky pulsed with wings, and the air hummed with an unending chorus of calls, cries, and aerial acrobatics.

Once our senses adjusted to the sheer intensity of it all, we turned our attention to the majestic cliffs themselves—an epic tapestry of black Dolerite and pale Marble, sculpted by time and bursting with birdlife. Then, as if the day couldn’t get more surreal, we spotted movement along the lower rock face: an Arctic Fox, striking and sleek, darted into view. In full daylight and just meters away, it snatched an adult Guillemot, vanishing up the slope with its catch, only to return moments later in search of another. We watched, riveted, as this ghost of the tundra gave us a raw glimpse into the rhythm of predator and prey.

After an unforgettable morning, we retraced our path, once again gliding through the feathered flotilla of Guillemots that peppered the sea like living confetti.

Back onboard, a hearty lunch refueled us as the ship repositioned to Faksvågen for the afternoon. There, our expedition team set a safe, bear-free perimeter for us to explore. Some strapped on snowshoes for a trek through the powdery hills, while others lingered along the beach, soaking in the silence and scale of this untouched Arctic fjord. From the hilltops, the views unfurled in every direction—white wilderness meeting cobalt sea, a reminder of the grandeur that surrounded us.

But the true crescendo of the day came on the return Zodiac ride across the fjord. There, lounging like Arctic royalty on an ice floe were a dozen walrus. Massive and ancient-looking, their sheer bulk on land was staggering—males can weigh over 1,500 kg.

To witness such creatures—symbols of the frozen North—so close, and in their element, was a gift. One that left us awestruck and silent, save for the soft click of cameras and the sound of our own breath catching in wonder.

Another extraordinary moment in a day we’ll carry with us forever.

Kayaking Triplog

This morning, we found ourselves near the towering cliffs of Alkefjellet—home to one of the largest colonies of Brünnich’s guillemots in the Arctic.

With a southerly wind blowing, Paolo dropped us off by zodiac at the southern end of the colony. From there, we let ourselves drift gently with the wind, paddling effortlessly along the base of the cliffs.

The scenery was breathtaking. These basalt cliffs, sculpted by centuries of wind and ice, are riddled with cracks and fissures, where meltwater trickles down in thin streams. The freezing and thawing have fractured the rock into ledges, perfect for nesting. It’s a natural fortress—safe for guillemots, and difficult to access for predators like the Arctic fox. Still, glaucous gulls circle overhead, always on the lookout for a fallen chick or an unguarded egg.

A thin layer of mist drifted across the cliffs, with low clouds adding a mysterious, cinematic atmosphere—something straight out of The Lord of the Rings.

Tens of thousands of birds nest here, and we had the privilege of observing them up close. Guillemots wheeled above us in vast numbers, their calls echoing against the stone. They were everywhere—in the sky, on the ledges, in the water. It was yet another unforgettable moment in the Arctic.

We covered around 4 km, carried by the wind, with barely a paddle stroke—completely immersed in the rhythm of this wild place.

What an extraordinary day we had today as we continued our journey into the mesmerizing sea ice north of Svalbard, roughly around 82°N and 14°E! We woke up around 07:45, ready to plunge into another day of exploration, even though a bit of a foggy veil had descended, limiting our visibility.

Despite the misty conditions over this part of the Arctic Ocean, our spirits were high as we made our way to a delicious buffet breakfast. Soon after, we were out on the decks, the bridge, and the bow, eagerly scanning the ethereal landscape for signs of life. While the elusive polar bear remained hidden from view, we were absolutely delighted to spot several seals gracefully navigating the icy waters. The sharp-eyed among us also cheered at the sight of elegant ivory gulls, a true Arctic emblem, cutting through the fog. Before our buffet lunch, we gathered for a truly insightful lecture from our guide, Tiph, who shared fascinating details about the seals we had just seen. It really brought a deeper understanding to our wildlife encounters. Lunch was a welcome break, fueling us for the afternoon's adventures.

In the afternoon, our guide Pierre stepped in with an engaging lecture all about polar bears, keeping our dreams of seeing them alive! The expedition team then made an exciting attempt at a sea ice landing. We watched with anticipation as the ice conditions were assessed, hoping for that unique experience of stepping out onto the frozen expanse. Unfortunately, due to the persistent limited visibility, the landing had to be cancelled for safety.

The day culminated in a truly unforgettable evening! After a lively recap with the Expedition Team in the bar, we donned our warmest layers for a fantastic BBQ dinner right on the outer decks of Deck 5. It was a proper polar party, complete with free-flowing drinks, great music, and even some dancing! The camaraderie was wonderful, and it was the perfect way to celebrate our deep dive into the high Arctic.

As the Inuit proverb wisely reminds us, "When your feet are cold, cover your head." Today, we embraced every facet of the Arctic, from the foggy conditions and the thrill of spotting seals and ivory gulls to the joy of learning and celebrating together under the vast Arctic sky. Each day out here is a profound experience!

This morning, we woke up to a dreamlike Arctic scene. The sun was out, bathing everything in golden light, and from the deck we could see the vast expanse of pack ice stretching endlessly to the horizon. It was a breathtaking sight—ice in all directions, shimmering under a flawless sky. After a hearty breakfast that warmed us against the morning chill, the expedition team announced plans for a very special landing: we were going onto the fast ice.

Excitement buzzed through the ship, but nature reminded us who's in charge. A dense fog rolled in unexpectedly, wrapping the Hondius in a cold, white veil. For a while, we didn’t know if the landing would be possible. Then, a crackle over the speaker system: Chris, our expedition leader, gave us the go-ahead. Cheers followed. This was not an everyday event—landing on the pack ice is rare, unpredictable, and utterly thrilling. In small groups, we made our way carefully down the gangway onto the frozen surface. The moment our boots touched the ice was surreal. We were standing on a moving, drifting sheet in the middle of the Arctic Ocean. Beneath our feet, meters-thick ice had formed from countless winters, shaped by wind, sea, and time. Some of it was fast ice—frozen to the coast—but other parts drifted and cracked like a giant living puzzle.

As the sun reappeared, the fog dissolved and we had time to fully take in our surroundings. The ship, Hondius, looked majestic from this new perspective, sitting quietly among the floes. Cameras clicked, laughter echoed, and we shared moments of wonder and joy.

In the afternoon, the fog returned, gently nudging us back onboard. We began our journey south toward the shores of Spitsbergen. Later, Jakub gave an insightful lecture on the sea ice around Svalbard—its cycles, importance to climate, and fragile beauty.

Evening brought our daily recap, a delicious dinner, and a lively polar quiz hosted by Brenya. It was the perfect way to end a remarkable day—one filled with rare experiences, shared wonder, and the icy heart of the Arctic.

We awoke to another promising morning in Northwest Svalbard. This time, in Magdalenefjorden. First stop, Gully Bukta. While the sun did not show itself, the adventure of the day did. A large, blue glacier and a walrus haul out awaited us. Guests boarded the zodiacs shortly after breakfast on board and we made our way toward the awaiting sights via Zodiac cruise. The walrus of the area rose to the occasion to host us, where they joisted, swam, slept, and continued to surprise us with their active behaviour in the water. The less active on the beach showed us what walrus life out-of-water looked like – pleasantly uneventful cuddle puddles that could last endless hours upon endless days. If it weren’t so smelly, I believe many of us would be tempted to join such a comfortable gathering.

Behind us, the glacier loomed and a call over the radio suggested moving that direction shortly would be in favour – king eiders awaiting nearby the icy front. If this wasn’t enough for the birders among us, black guillemots, arctic terns, little auks, common eiders, and ivory gulls also made their appearance by the surrounding ice. As the morning progressed, so did the weather, and we found ourselves back on board in due time as the cold seeped in one Zodiac at a time.

After a quick lunch, we were on the move again, but not a far sail, just around the corner from Gully Bukta awaited our next (and final) destination, Gravnesodden. The weather did not let up for us, the winds continued and then the rain. Did this stop us from enjoying our final moments in Svalbard? Absolutely not. We had big plans – a split landing – Zodiac cruise accompanied by a landing rich in early 1600’s whaling history. On site was the Sysselmesters cabin, whom was present on site and greeted us with a smile. The tide was low on arrival and made for a pleasant sandy beach landing. Here guests had the opportunity to free-roam within the perimeter set by our bear monitoring team. Some visited the roped-off graves and whaling artifacts, some roamed the sandy shore, and others set off up the mountain to work off the past weeks deserts that Chef Rolf has lured us with. Whichever they chose, it was accompanied by a Zodiac cruise along the fjords coast into a shallow bay where no less than 30 ringed seals played, swam, and amused us. Around the corner, another glacier, but not without working for it. High winds and choppy sea conditions made the adventure splashy and extra exciting. Until now, we have seen only calm days. This was a real taste of Arctic ocean (literally). The way back to the ship was speckled with bright blue icebergs.

A hot shower and our finest packed-attire brought us to the evenings final gathering – Captain’s Farewell and Cocktails. We raised a toast to each other and our time together here in Svalbard and reflected on the memories made through the trip’s slideshow. Until next time…

Kayaking Triplog

The wind was strong this afternoon, but the southern coast of the fjord offered some shelter. We launched with Paolo once again, heading out in search of seals, which are often seen in this area.

We moved quietly along the shoreline, and after just a few hundred meters, we spotted the first seals. Curious by nature, they slowly approached, watching us as we glided silently over the water. It was a special moment—being followed by these wild animals, seemingly intrigued by these boats that moved without a sound.

As we continued, the wind picked up, funneled and intensified by the surrounding mountains and chilled by nearby glaciers. We passed a few grounded icebergs, safely stuck on the seafloor, which gave us a chance to paddle right up close.

Rounding the final headland, the wind grew much stronger, gusting across the water. But thanks to the progress the group had made during the week, we were able to continue on until we caught sight of the Waggonwaybreen glacier in the distance.

It was clear, though, that the conditions were worsening—the gusts were becoming fierce, carrying chunks of ice with them. It was time to turn back.

With the wind now at our backs, the return was much easier. We paddled downwind, carried by the elements, until we rejoined Paolo and the zodiac.

Back onboard the ship, we warmed up again—our bodies tired, but our minds full of vivid images: glaciers, gusts of wind, and the quiet, unforgettable presence of Arctic wildlife.

In the soft light of early morning, we arrived in Longyearbyen. As we gathered for one final breakfast on board, there was a quiet sense of reflection in the air. Outside, the crew gently unloaded our suitcases, a silent reminder that our Arctic adventure was drawing to a close.

Disembarking from Hondius was not easy. Over these past days, she has been far more than a ship—she’s been our shelter, our launchpad into the wild, and our floating home. Within her walls we’ve shared laughter, awe, and moments that will stay with us for a lifetime.

Together, we ventured deep into the high latitudes, witnessed landscapes sculpted by ice and time, and encountered wildlife most only dream of—polar bears, walrus, whales, and the mesmerizing dance of seabirds in the Arctic skies. Along the way, strangers became companions, and companions became friends.

Now, with hearts full and cameras brimming, we begin the journey home. Though we leave the ice behind, its spirit travels with us—etched into memory, carried in stories, and felt in quiet, unforgettable moments.

Thank you for joining us on this remarkable voyage. Your curiosity, warmth, and camaraderie made this journey truly special. Wherever your path leads next, we hope it brings you back to these wild places—and perhaps, one day, back to us.

Until we meet again—safe travels, and fair winds.