PLA03-25, trip log, North Spitsbergen Explorer

The air buzzed with excitement as we gathered on the pier of Longyearbyen, nestled in the stark, stunning wilderness of Svalbard. A cloudy Arctic sky, the buzzing noise of the zodiac engines and quite a busy embarkation added adrenaline to the beginning of our voyage.

The ride out to M/V Plancius was exhilarating. The zodiac skimmed over the choppy water, rising and falling with each swell as it made its way to the ship anchored just offshore. Once on board we had the opportunity to familiarize ourselves with the ship's layout—its winding corridors, cozy cabins, and the various decks that would soon become our floating home. Friendly crew members and expedition staff, always smiling and welcoming, were quick to introduce themselves, offering help and answering questions as we explored.

Soon, we gathered in the panoramic lounge, its large windows offering great views of the surrounding landscape. There, we attended the mandatory safety drill, followed by an informative presentation by our Expedition Leader Jan, outlining the voyage ahead—our route, the planned landings, and what to expect in the coming days.

Afterwards, we headed to the dining room for our first dinner on board. The atmosphere was warm and lively, with the hum of conversation and clinking cutlery filling the space. Over a delicious meal, we began to settle in, bonding with fellow passengers and sharing the growing anticipation of the journey into the Northern area of the Svalbard archipelago.

Our first full day of expedition cruising in the Arctic! And what a beautiful scene to greet us – nice sea and spectacular, snow-covered mountains of the North-West coast of Spitsbergen on our starboard side. We soaked it all in before heading for breakfast, after which we gathered in the lounge to receive our mandatory for zodiac and polar bear safety. Both are absolutely essential and as we listened carefully it became clear, if we hadn’t realised fully before, just why they call this expedition cruising. We were truly in the Arctic and it’s not a theme park!

After this we were able to relax whilst Plancius transported us into Smeerenburgfjorden. As we turned into the fjord from the open sea a fabulous vista opened out in front of us. Beautiful ice bound jagged peaks on either side and, at the far end, the majestic glacier itself. We slowly made our way in with everyone out on deck, taking the scenery and wildlife. In the water we spotted Brunnich’s and Black Guillemots, Common Eider and a few Atlantic Puffins, joined by a curious Harp Seal. Arctic Skuas were seen chasing a poor Black-legged Kittiwake, trying to steal the food that had just been swallowed. In the distance, while observing the crevassed 3-km wide terminus of Smeerengburgbreen a small pod of Belugas were visible to the trained eyes. It was a quiet yet magical moment, witnessing these elusive whales in their icy habitat.

We then sailed through the channel to Smeerengburg itself, an old whaling station on the end of spit of land. Several centuries ago it was a hive of activity with up to 300 men working there during the arctic summer, catching whales and walrus and rendering the carcasses to extract the oil from the blubber, which was then distributed, sold and widely used in western Europe.

We dragged ourselves and went down to an excellent lunch whilst we sailed to our afternoon of destination.

We dropped anchor off the coast of a small island in the northwest of Svalbard: Ytre Norskøya. The afternoon was calm and the anticipation high as we prepared to set foot on this historic and remote outpost used for centuries by whalers to spot whale blows.

Following a briefing from Jan, we disembarked and met up with the expedition team onshore. The group split into three: the "Contemplators" stayed low to explore the coastal areas at a slower pace, while the other two groups ascended a scenic hill on the eastern side of the island. The view from there was truly spectacular—sweeping Arctic landscapes as far as the eye could see. Michelle shared fascinating insights into the local vegetation, while Marco offered a geological perspective on the land beneath our feet.

Some of us pushed further uphill with Michelle, Koen, Marco, and Mark, eventually reaching the island's summit at 150 meters above sea level. Meanwhile, others followed Christophe to get a closer look at the thriving colonies of Little Auks and Atlantic Puffins. Remarkably, this site is home to the northernmost known breeding population of Atlantic Puffins—an extraordinary wildlife highlight.

As if the day needed anything more, we were lucky enough to be visited by a curious Arctic fox, much to the delight of the hikers.

Back on board Plancius, we enjoyed another superb dinner, followed by the daily recap in the observation lounge with Jan and the expedition team. Afterwards, the ship gently cruised into the scenic Raudfjorden, bathed in the soft light of the Arctic evening. A good night’s rest awaits, as we look forward to another day of adventure in the unforgettable wilderness of Svalbard.

Today we woke up for our first full activity day and as such we were very excited. We enjoyed breakfast and then we slowly started to prepare for our first landing and snowshoe hike. During wintertime Svalbard gets significant snowfall and much of the snow is still covering the breathtaking landscapes in June.

Before we could land at Mushamna in Woodfjorden, the expedition team first needed to scout the area for the presence of polar bears. From the ship no bear was spotted, however with quite a lot of deadground around a check on land was required. We could see the armed guides walking into several directions to ensure our safety.

Then it was time to board the zodiacs and go on land. The team had put lots of snowshoes out and after a short struggle most of us were geared up and ready to go. The sportive hikers left first and the rest of us followed. The weather was great, a little drizzle, but also low hanging clouds that created a beautiful mystic atmosphere with the sun shining vaguely behind them. Walking in the virgin snow was fantastic and seeing tracks of polar bears, reindeers and foxes was very thrilling.

Mushamna has probably the largest and best-looking trapper hut in all Svalbard. It was erected in 1987 by Kjell Reidar Hovelsrud. What regular trapper huts look like can also be seen here as the hut that was built in 1927 by Hilmar Nøis however this hut is not in use anymore and is now considered a historic relic. While we were all on our hikes a radio call from the bridge came in. A polar bear had been spotted swimming in the waters close to the hut. A polar bear can cause a serious threat to our safety and as such an evacuation plan was put to practice.

While we were walking back to the landing site, the bear had come to shore. But to our luck the bear didn’t want to be close to us. We could see it walking parallel to us while looking sideways every now and then to check our location only to move on further inland.

Once we were back on the ship we had a good view on the bear and it was impressive to see how fast they can walk and how easy they climb steep slopes in the deep snow.

After a while we left the bear and we started making our way to Liefdefjorden, the fjord of love. But first things first, lunch time!

For the afternoon a zodiac cruise was planned in Liefdefjorden where we could see beautiful glaciers, stunning ice formations and endless landscapes. The weather was near perfect with no wind at all and sunny skies.

The reflections in the water were perfect and with mild temperatures it was a wonderful afternoon. We spotted a bearded seal resting and posing on an ice flow whereas we also observed many bird species. It was a lovely afternoon.

Recap was a fun one. Koen talked briefly about Belugas, but the highlight was Eduardo who creatively explained to us why ice sometimes looks blue and green and he did this with the help of his expedition fotons ;).

Then we enjoyed another delicious meal, but the day wasn’t over yet. During dinner gracious M/V Plancius had set course to a small island called Moffen where we could see dozens of walruses hauling out, Sabine’s gulls and even an Ivory gull was spotted.

After a full day it was now time to enjoy a well-deserved sleep! Good night!

A peaceful and serene scene awaited us this morning: the ship gently resting at the edge of the sea ice, surrounded by a vast frozen landscape stretching all the way to the horizon. A quiet, cloudy sky hung above us—not dramatic, not gloomy, just a soft Arctic grey that made everything feel still and timeless. We had plans to stay here for the whole day (and the following days) moving along the ice edge, and over the continental shelf on the search for bowhead whales, polar bears, ivory gulls and any other wildlife we would encounter.

We spent the morning navigating through the sea ice, scanning the horizon for signs of Arctic fauna. Northern fulmars, Brent geese, Atlantic puffins and the most seen, Litle auks, kittiwakes and guillemots accompanied us. Around 10:30 our expedition leader, Jan, showed us our tracks during the night and our current position, we had reached our northern latitude this morning at 80° 11,3°N! As the morning scouting was still infructuous Koen gifted us with a lecture on polar bears, he told us about their distribution, morphology, reproduction habits and their struggle to move around and find preys in this increasing warming Arctic environment.

We enjoyed another excellent lunch at the dining room. Some of us went for a recovering nap while the rest stayed in the outer decks, the lounge and the bridge scouting for more wildlife! The afternoon brought us a fascinating presentation by Marco on Sea Ice and its dynamics. He introduced us to the marvellous world of ice, taught us about its physics, its formation and the threats the arctic ocean is suffering in the current warming scenario. So interesting, so fragile!

As the Plancius continued her way alternating between the fast ice and open waters, the clouds lingered peacefully overhead, even some sun rays heated us while scouting on the outer decks.

The day ended with the daily recap hosted by Jan and the expedition team, followed by a satisfying dinner. After dinner we watched a documentary on polar bears, it was made with the help of spy cameras which are a great tool to film these dangerous, mighty and curious animals. Our luck wasn’t the best for wildlife, but being in the pack ice with the warm light of the sun through the clouds and the peaceful weather was something we will never forget.

The day began with the gentle wake-up call from our esteemed expedition leader, Jan. Yet, the early morning light revealed that some of our fellow adventurers had already embraced the Arctic dawn. Throughout the night, we had been navigating the edge of the pack ice at a deliberate pace, and by morning, we found ourselves in a captivating expanse of ice—neither too open nor too dense—creating an ideal habitat for the true monarch of the Arctic: the polar bear.

With keen eyes scanning the icy wilderness, our hopes were high. And then, in the early morning light, our guide Mark spotted a distant, yellowish dot on the horizon. As the Plancius edged closer, the dot transformed into the majestic form of a polar bear. Unperturbed by our presence, it moved purposefully across the ice, seemingly on a mission. Eventually, it paused at an older kill, offering little sustenance. For us, however, it was a mesmerizing spectacle—watching the bear leap from one ice floe to another, swim effortlessly, and traverse the ice with a relaxed grace. At times, it even appeared to pose atop a pressure ridge, as if aware of our eager gazes and cameras.

After some time, the bear continued its solitary journey, and we, in turn, set off in search of more wildlife encounters. The surrounding scenery was breathtaking—vast expanses of ice under the soft Arctic light. Later, our expedition team invited us to embark on a zodiac cruise through the pack ice—a surreal experience of drifting in a small boat amidst the ever-shifting ice floes. The area teemed with birdlife: Northern Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Little Auks, and both Brünnich’s and Black Guillemots graced our path.

As the chill set in, the opportunity for a Polar Plunge presented itself. Many of us, driven by a mix of exhilaration and daring, seized the moment. The water temperature hovered around -1°C, a stark contrast to the warmth of our anticipation. Some leaped into the frigid waters with abandon, while others gingerly eased in from the gangway. Each participant emerged with a rush of adrenaline and a triumphant smile, the cold quickly forgotten in the warmth of shared camaraderie and accomplishment.

Later, we gathered on the back deck for a high Arctic BBQ under the expansive sky. Specially prepared tables allowed us to savour delicious fare amidst the frosty landscape. As the evening progressed, the BBQ transformed into a lively celebration, with music and dancing that continued late into the night, echoing the joy and unity of our unforgettable Arctic adventure.

Our third day in the ice began in the stillness of the Arctic morning as the ship cruised westward through a mosaic of pack ice. The scene was quintessentially polar—drifting floes under an arctic sky, dotted with life. Harp seals were abundant, their curious faces peeking from leads in the ice, while a few graceful Ivory gulls swept passed, all to soon disappearing against the vast white expanse.

By midday, the vessel departed the ice edge and turned southward, setting course for the edge of the continental shelf west of Svalbard. The sea grew rougher than in recent days, a reminder of the wildness of these northern waters. As the ship rolled southward, guests split their afternoon between scanning the ocean from the bridge in hopes of spotting elusive whales or attending one of two insightful lectures. One explored the lives of whales themselves, while the other delved into the complex relationship between whales and humans.

Wildlife sightings during the passage south were sparse, with a few Atlantic Puffins bobbing in the waves or flying laps around the ship, a single Snow Bunting appearing improbably far from land, and a handful of elegant Long-tailed Skuas briefly investigated the ship before continuing on their course.

Late in the afternoon, the ship reached the edge of the continental shelf and began to trace a southerly route along the shelf edge. These nutrient-rich waters, stirred by upwellings created by the underwater bathymetry, held the promise for encounters with marine giants. Spirits were high with the hope of seeing cetaceans taking advantage of this feeding zone.

During the evening recap, Jan outlined the plans for the final landings of the expedition, while Clara shared her experiences of diving beneath the Arctic surface, painting a vivid picture of the hidden marine life below the ice. Marco followed with an engaging explanation of the powerful ocean currents that influence the Svalbard region. As the session concluded and guests turned to dinner, excitement returned to the deck. A pod of White-beaked Dolphins made a brief but thrilling appearance just before the meal. Then, as dinner concluded, four Fin Whales were spotted near the ship, offering stunning close-range views of these massive mammals, second in size only to the Blue Whale —the perfect crescendo to a day that began in silence and ended in awe.

After a few days sailing in the western coast of Svalbard, early in the morning M/V Plancius moved slowly, easing into Forlandsundet—the narrow channel that separates the island of Spitsbergen from Prins Karls Forland.

A quiet morning with calm seas and low clouds, only disturbed by the occasional squeak of the glaucous gulls. The surrounding mountains unveiled their outlines slowly, softened by the lingering mist. Along the shoreline, scattered patches of drift ice rested among weathered stones, and further up the slope, small groups of reindeer moved quietly across the tundra. Their pale coats blended with the muted colours of the land, heads lowered as they grazed on sparse vegetation uncovered by the short Arctic summer.

After a short shuttle, we landed at Poolepynten, an interesting sandbar on the eastern coast of Prins Karls Forland, named after Jonas Poole, an English explorer and early whaler. The strip of land stretched low and narrow between the sea and the sky, its sandy surface scattered with driftwood, kelp, and bones bleached by wind and time. Quietly and accompanied by our guides, we walked toward a small group of walruses hauled out near the beacon. Their large, heavy bodies were lying close together on the gravel, some resting, others occasionally shifting or lifting their heads. A few gave low grunts or snorted, but most stayed still, seemingly unbothered by our presence at a respectful distance. The smell was strong and unmistakable, a mix of sea and animals. We stood quietly, watching them in the grey light, taking in the size and calm of the group without causing a disturbance.

Walruses are social and highly adapted marine mammals, well suited to life in the Arctic. The ones found around Svalbard belong to the Atlantic subspecies, slightly smaller than their Pacific relatives. Both males and females have long tusks, which they use not only for defence and dominance but also to help pull themselves out of the water onto ice or land. A thick layer of blubber insulates them against the cold and serves as an energy reserve during periods of fasting. Their whiskers (vibrissae) are incredibly sensitive, allowing them to detect clams and other small invertebrates on the seafloor—their main source of food. Despite their size and bulk, walruses are agile in the water and spend much of their time swimming, diving, and foraging beneath the surface.

In the afternoon we moved to Trygghamna, a shalter fjord in the Northwestern corner of Isfjorden. The sun was shining and temperature had arose in the mean time and we found ourselves hiking in a lush green tundra located at the foot of a beautiful bird cliff. The Precambrian meta-carbonate of Alkhornet made the perfect scenario for a wonderful stroll around ice wedges, rushing stream, shiny boulder and the ever present Svalbard Reindeer grazing around.

Unfortunately it was time to go back to the ship, where words of appreciation by captain Artur and EL Jan were spent to thank all of us for this fantastic trip in the high Arctic.

A grey blanket of soft clouds over the port of Longyearbyen greeted us this morning. Our ship, MV Plancius, rested gently at anchor, its silhouette softened by the misty air, signalling the tranquil conclusion of our expedition.

After our last breakfast on board, we packed up and headed to the gangway to disembark. We said goodbye to the crew who had supported us throughout the trip and to the fellow travellers we’d gotten to know along the way. Our last zodiac ride, across still waters, brought us to the jetty of the northernmost city in the world. Some of us took time to explore the quiet town of Longyearbyen, while others got ready to catch their flights home. As we took one last look at Plancius, anchored in the bay, we thought back on the memorable experiences we shared, and maybe even started thinking about our next adventure.