My trip was absolutely amazing thanks to the tireless work and unbridled enthusiasm of everyone on board. Every day felt intentional and designed to maximize fulfillment, adventure, and joy. I greatly appreciate the care that was given to crafting such an extraordinary journey and the effort made by the expedition staff and Ortelius crew to execute a complex logistical dance every day so flawlessly. I will never forget my brief visit to this magical, sacred place and I have tremendous gratitude for the staff and crew, without whom this experience would never have been possible. I have nothing but superlatives to say for everyone involved, but I wanted to call out two people in particular.

First, the expedition leader, Sara. She demonstrated peerless leadership in shuttling us from activity to activity, giving us the opportunity to see wildlife, and making us feel trust and comfort that we would have an amazing experience every day; boundless energy, for always having enthusiasm, no matter what time of day or night, that was absolutely infectious and really helped enhance the trip even when I was feeling tired or down; and operational genius, for coordinating among multiple cruise ships, multiple landing sites, passengers wanting to do all sorts of activities, weather (good for us luckily but still unpredictable!), and myriad other factors to deliver amazing shore excursions, activities, and experiences for us every day. Truly words are not enough to express my gratitude and admiration for the amazing job she did, and I would be hesitant to do any sort of similar tour again without Sara at the helm.

And lastly Shona Main, the ship doctor, who I think was not technically part of the expedition staff but participated just as fully and enthusiastically as any staff member. Beyond her medical duties which she performed superbly (I didn’t get seasick despite usually getting quite motion sick!) I witnessed her assisting passengers multiple times to ensure we had a great and safe experience (one example that stands out is helping out an older passenger who had mobility issues get ready for the polar plunge, and do it safely - what an amazing experience that wouldn’t have been possible for that person without assistance!). Each day she greeted us cheerfully at the gangplank as we departed for the Zodiacs, ensuring life vests were equipped, cards had been swiped, and that we could descend safely. I saw her on every shore excursion engaging with guests and sharing her knowledge and experience. And lastly, something special and unique for me - I had a lot of complex feelings on this trip - it was overwhelming in many ways, and at times I felt it kind of difficult to take it all in. Shona exhibited a lot of empathy, listening to me talk about some of the feelings during one of the meals, and suggesting I share with other passengers who might have been feeling the same way. I did share with my roommate which definitely helped me process some of the feelings from this trip. I wanted to call out this trait which I felt uniquely from Shona. For such a powerful and moving trip it can be difficult to process in the moment, and having someone on the staff who is empathetic and can relate to your feelings and help you process them was really helpful. I was very grateful that she was there and I think she would be an excellent expedition staff member for future voyages.

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