PLA32-25, trip log, Antarctica - Polar Circle - Whale watching

The day has finally arrived! Our incredible journey south begins now. In the late afternoon, we make our way to the port, our eyes fixed on the swift silhouette of our ship, Plancius, ready to carry us to the farthest reaches of the world.

After traveling to the ends of the Earth to Ushuaia, the southernmost city, this moment feels surreal. As we step onto the gangway, our cheerful expedition team and lovely crew greeted us, their faces full of enthusiasm and excitement for the adventure ahead. The day wrapped in a soft, cloudy sky, the warmth of the air comforting, the gentle winds whispering of the vast, untouched wilderness to come. The sea was still, reflecting the sky like a perfect mirror. We check in with the hotel team and were escorted to our cabins, our new home for the next twelve days.

We took a moment to explore the ship while the others arrive, feeling the pulse of this grand vessel beneath our feet. Once everyone was on board, we gathered for some essential briefings, including the abandon ship drill, where we mustered at the lifeboats, ready for any situation that might arise. With this important task completed, it was time to return to the lounge, where we were greeted with a glass of bubbly, and Captain Evgeny raised a toast to the voyage ahead.

As the ship began to come alive with the hum of anticipation, our hotel manager Albert introduced the Plancius to us, unveiling the marvels of this mighty ship. Expedition Leader Adam then stepped forward, introducing the expert team who will guide us on this unforgettable journey. Every face was warm and welcoming, and we were instantly enveloped by the camaraderie and spirit of adventure that filled the air.

Finally, time for the last event of the day arrived as we moved to the restaurant, the anticipation palpable, and sat down to a feast, our eyes drawn to the breathtaking views of the Beagle Channel outside. The fading light of day casted a golden glow on the waters, and it was impossible not to feel the weight of history and nature around us. We are on the brink of something extraordinary, and tomorrow promises to be just the beginning of the epic journey ahead.

The day began with a gentle, if somewhat rolling, reminder of the journey ahead. We'd spent the night nestled in the relative calm of the Beagle Channel, a necessary respite from the Drake's Passage's notorious fury. Even here, however, the waves hinted at what was to come, rocking us with a steady two-meter swell. Breakfast, our first in the ship's dining room, was a communal experience, a shared anticipation of the adventure unfolding.

The morning's formalities were crucial: mandatory briefings. We absorbed the IAATO's guidelines, the "dos and don'ts" that would ensure our respectful interaction with Antarctica's fragile ecosystem. Safety, of course, was paramount, and we listened intently to the procedures for our upcoming landings and zodiac cruises. The distribution of our sturdy, expedition-grade boots felt like a tangible step closer to our goal, a physical manifestation of our impending arrival. Lunch was a welcome interlude, a moment to refuel before the afternoon's tasks.

The afternoon was a whirlwind of activity. Biosecurity was the order of the day. We meticulously presented our gear for inspection, ensuring no invasive species, no stray seeds, would hitch a ride to the pristine Antarctic shores. Then, a sudden burst of excitement: orcas! In the very Beagle Channel! The sight of these magnificent creatures, their sleek forms breaching the water, was a breathtaking prelude to the wonders to come. Simon, the ship's birder, captivated us with a lecture on albatrosses, their majestic wingspans and incredible journeys.

Finally, we ventured into the Drake's Passage. The recap, our daily briefing, painted a picture of the challenges ahead. The forecast was, to put it mildly, "pessimistic" wave-wise. But we were undeterred. We had known the price of reaching the seventh continent, the legendary Drake Shake, was a test of our resolve. As evening fell, the waves surged to four and five meters, and the ship began to roll with a vengeance. Many of us succumbed to the inevitable sea sickness, a testament to the Passage's power. The night was a symphony of creaking metal and the relentless rhythm of the waves, a constant reminder of the wild, untamed nature of our journey. Despite the discomfort, a thrill coursed through us. We were on our way, braving the elements, closer with every passing hour to the icy embrace of Antarctica.

This morning we found ourselves at a serious Drake Shake Passage. Yesterday afternoon we had left and we could feel the movement of the ship increase, however yesterday we still had some shelter from the South American continent. Overnight we lost that shelter and the motion increased significantly. The waves were mostly coming from the starboard side of the ship and this meant that we were rolling in our beds. Although it wasn’t very uncomfortable, it did wake us up a lot and as a result we didn’t feel well rested.

In the dining room both the dining room staff as well as the expedition team were present. No buffet this morning, but table service by professional stewards and some amateur expedition staff ;). The rolling of the ship was too severe and too unpredictable to have many people walking around so we enjoyed this extra service.

Expedition guide Marco dared to give a lecture which many of us attended. Despite the movement of the ship, Marco stood his ground and introduced us to Antarctica. He did this with a lot of passion and after the lecture finished, we were even more excited to visit the pristine White Continent.

In between many of us paid a visit to the bridge. It was exciting to see the wild sea state and how our gracious ship was plowing through the waves. For the afternoon even higher waves were forecasted so we felt excited, but also a bit anxious for what was coming.

The afternoon lecture program had been cancelled so many of us took the opportunity to lay down and rest a bit or read a book in the lounge.

At some point we changed course slightly and this led to more waves coming towards our bow. With wind speeds up to almost 70 knots and waves reaching 9 meters, it was a spectacular sight and it reminded us to never underestimate the power of the oceans. Some waves were really showing off as they reached eye level with us on the bridge and that meant estimated heights of 13-14 meters.

This weather meant that we would be further delayed for our arrival in Antarctica, but this spectacle sure made up for it.

Recap for tonight was cancelled as well and instead we were asked to go to our cabins. Not because we had been bad, but for the simple reason of having dinner in the cabin. The dining room stewards took our orders and not too long after both the dining room staff as well as some expedition staff were knocking doors to deliver our room service. This hadn’t happened in a long time so that definitely meant that we were on a proper Drake Shake!

After the dinner plates were collected again, we were free to leave our cabins. Some of us went to the lounge, but most of us enjoyed the comfort of our beds and cabins for an early and hopefully better sleep.

It had been an exciting day experiencing such an angry ocean, but now we hoped for better weather and a good rest! Good night!

The second day aboard the MV Plancius marked a significant shift in conditions as we continued our journey south towards Antarctica, crossing the infamous Drake Passage. After yesterday’s tumultuous seas, the weather had calmed considerably, offering a much more comfortable experience. The once fierce waves had subsided, leaving only a gentle but still noticeable rolling motion, a subtle reminder of the storm we had left behind. Despite the more tranquil waters, the excitement on board was palpable, with the anticipation of reaching Antarctica growing by the hour.

Wildlife sightings were relatively sparse today. However, there were still some notable encounters. The graceful Black-browed, Grey-headed, and Light-mantled Albatrosses were spotted, their vast wingspans skimming the surface of the water as they soared effortlessly in the wind. Blue Petrels and Antarctic Prions also made brief appearances, darting across the waves. But the highlight for many came in the form of a pair of Southern Bottlenose Whales, which surfaced briefly before disappearing into the depths, much to the frustration of those hoping for a more extended viewing.

As the ship made its steady progress towards the Antarctic Peninsula, the educational program on board continued to enrich the experience for all passengers. In the morning, Joyce gave an insightful lecture on the Cetaceans we might encounter during the expedition. Her talk covered various species of whales, dolphins, and porpoises, providing us with a deeper understanding of these marine mammals and what to look out for in the coming days.

The afternoon lectures offered more specialized knowledge. Koen, our photography expert, shared valuable tips for capturing the incredible scenery and wildlife we would soon encounter. His advice was particularly useful for those eager to document their once-in-a-lifetime trip to the southernmost continent. Later, Giulia presented her fascinating research project, which involves collecting skin biopsy samples from seals to analyse toxin levels in these Antarctic pinnipeds. Her work will provide vital information about the health of these animals in the face of environmental changes, and it was clear that her passion for the subject had everyone intrigued.

As the day drew to a close, the mood aboard the Plancius was one of eager anticipation. Tomorrow would mark the first day of operations in Antarctica, and the excitement was tangible. The divers had their briefings for the check-out dive, ensuring that everyone was well-prepared for the icy waters ahead. Meanwhile, other passengers were eagerly awaiting their first glimpses of penguins, icebergs, and perhaps even more whales. The thought of finally stepping onto the frozen continent and experiencing its untamed wilderness was enough to keep everyone on high alert, eagerly counting down the hours.

Finally, this morning, after three days in the Drake Passage experiencing one of the most notorious storms of the season, the long-expected Antarctic land was in sight. After a hearty breakfast prepared by our talented galley team, we headed out for our very first landing in Antarctica. Despite the low visibility and constant snowfall, we were more than ready and excited to set foot on solid land and visit Mikkelsen Harbor, on D’Hainaut Island.

This tiny, protected harbour got its name from the heyday of Southern Ocean whaling. The remains of a water boat on the shore served as a reminder of the times when Norwegian sailors ventured to the White Continent in search of blubber. Mikkelsen Harbor is also home to a small gentoo penguin colony, and, of course, seeing our first penguins of the voyage was a highlight in itself. We were all delighted by the playfulness of these amazing and resilient birds.

In the afternoon, MV Plancius repositioned toward the Antarctic Peninsula, dropping anchor in Cierva Cove, near Argentina’s Primavera Research Station. Our expedition guides took us on an almost three-hour-long Zodiac cruise through the bay. This time, the weather gods were on our side. The Antarctic mainland greeted us with a beautiful, soft autumn light, and the bay was filled with icebergs of various shapes and sizes.

While admiring the beauty of this icy world, we had our first exciting seal encounter—a female crabeater seal napping on a large iceberg. Then, we spotted a leopard seal hunting a chinstrap penguin. It almost felt like we were inside a BBC Nature documentary. How privileged and lucky we were to witness the majesty of the polar wilderness at its finest!

We were already buzzing with excitement when we returned from our incredible cruise, but even better things were to come. As we sailed away from the bay, we were treated to a breathtaking sunset, with otherworldly shades of orange and yellow painting the sky.

The day concluded with a recap from our expedition guides, who shared insights about the many incredible moments we had experienced. This was followed by another delicious meal.

What a day! How great it is to be alive in Antarctica.

Early in the morning, before breakfast, we started sailing into the Lemaire Channel at around 7 AM. The view was breathtaking. A mist covered the mountains, creating a mysterious yet beautiful scene. Many of us were already awake, standing on the bow to take in the incredible sights. After enjoying this scenery, it was time for breakfast.

Later, we boarded the zodiacs for a cruise around Pleneau Island, known as the "iceberg graveyard." As we set out, the fog was thick, but soon it cleared, revealing an amazing sight. Hundreds of penguins were swimming in the water, and among them, four humpback whales were feeding together. On one small iceberg, three penguins jumped onto the ice, quickly followed by many more. We found ourselves surrounded by about 300 penguins, a truly unforgettable experience!

We then made our way to the iceberg graveyard, where we saw enormous icebergs. It was stunning to be surrounded by nothing but ice. On our way back, we stopped again to watch the whales. This time, they briefly played near our zodiacs, making the experience even more magical. As it was a cold and snowy morning, many of us were eager to return to the ship for a hot chocolate to warm up.

After lunch, we spent the afternoon on the ship, continuing our journey further south. There was still a long way to go. During the afternoon, Pelin gave a lecture about the pioneers of Antarctic exploration, focusing on De Gerlache and the Belgica Expedition, which took place between 1897 and 1899. Later, we spent time in the lounge playing games and enjoying drinks before gathering for the daily recap.

During the recap, Adam shared plans for the next day, while Koen explained the feeding behavior of humpback whales. Joyce talked about altruism in humpbacks, Pelin discussed Charcot, and Angie gave insights into leopard seals. Afterward, we had dinner as the evening settled in.

Still on our journey further south, we knew that during the night, we would cross the Antarctic Circle. By the next day, we would be setting foot below the polar circle, an exciting thought!

By now, we had gotten pretty used to hearing Adam’s cheerful "Good morning, good morning, good morning." This morning, however, was a bit different, as we had crossed south of the Antarctic Polar Circle overnight. We reached the southernmost point of our trip: the small island of Detaille. Here, we visited the British Base "W," which was occupied from 1956 to 1959.

The base was abandoned fairly quickly, as the supply ship could not reach the island. The hut at the station now appears like a little time capsule, with many fascinating details about the lives of those who lived and worked there. The primary focus of their research was meteorology and geology, though they also made several observations on wildlife.

While half of us had the opportunity to visit the island, the other half enjoyed a small Zodiac cruise around it, which was full of wildlife. We saw humpback whales lounging and rolling in the water, moving close by and clearly not disturbed by our presence. We also had our first chance to observe Adelie penguins, the smallest but undoubtedly the cutest of the brush-tailed penguins.

In addition, we spotted many seals around the island—mostly crabeater seals in the water and fur seals on land. The ice, by the way, was breathtaking. We simply couldn’t get enough of it. Through mid morning we then swapped the groups, so all of us could experience the views around this special island.

After the morning excursion, we headed north again to make the most of the remaining time on our trip. We cruised through the inner passage of Crystal Sound, passing stunning icebergs along the way. We crossed the Antarctic Circle again on our way north, and the hotel team served hot chocolate with rum on deck 6. Not a bad way to spend the afternoon—cruising past icebergs and enjoying a warm drink.

Later in the afternoon, Jakub gave an insightful presentation about the importance of glaciers. This was followed by an extended recap session. Adam discussed the plans for the upcoming day, Steffi spoke more about the breeding cycles of penguins, Marco shared interesting facts about swimming and “pooing” penguins, Jakub continued with a discussion on aspects of icebergs, and Pelin wrapped up with a great story about sled dogs that were once used at Detaille Island.

After a delicious dinner and a drink at the bar, we headed to bed to rest up for another day full of exciting activities.

Our day began with an unusually early breakfast, a necessity dictated by the rapidly diminishing daylight hours and the ambitious, multi-faceted itinerary planned for the day. We awoke to the serene, almost mystical, ambiance of a misty Paradise Bay. A gentle snowfall, a delicate dusting of white, blanketed the landscape, creating a hushed, ethereal atmosphere. Remarkably, the winds were calm, a rare and welcome respite from the region's typically turbulent weather. We quickly prepared for our first excursions of the day, dividing into two groups for our zodiac adventures.

Half of our group were destined for a continental landing, a tangible, physical connection to the Antarctic mainland, while the other half embarked on a zodiac cruise, eager to explore the intricate network of icy waterways that carved their way through the bay.

Our landing at the summer-only Argentinian Brown Station, now an empty outpost, a silent testament to human presence in this remote and unforgiving environment, was a poignant and reflective experience. As the morning mist began to dissipate, Paradise Bay gradually unveiled its namesake glory, a spectacle that exceeded all expectations. Those of us with a thirst for adventure embarked on a challenging hike up the steep hill that loomed behind the station.

The ascent was arduous, but the reward was immeasurable: a panoramic vista that stretched beyond the limits of our vision, encompassing the entire bay and its surrounding peaks. The sun, finally breaking through the overcast, cast a golden light upon the landscape, transforming the already stunning scenery into a scene of otherworldly beauty. We seized the opportunity to capture this momentous occasion, posing proudly with the Antarctic flag, each click of the camera a testament to our shared experience. Meanwhile, those on the zodiac cruise were treated to a mesmerizing display of marine life of humpback and minke whales.

Lunch was a brief, almost hurried, interlude, a moment to refuel and share our experiences before we embarked on our next adventure. The transit to our afternoon destination offered a continuous, captivating display of the Antarctic Peninsula's breathtaking landscapes. The sun, now fully emerged, illuminated the rugged coastline, revealing hidden coves, towering cliffs, and intricate ice formations. The frequent sightings of humpback whales, their massive forms breaching the surface, provided a constant source of wonder and excitement. Then, a sudden, electrifying burst of excitement rippled through the ship: orcas! We observed them in owe as their sleek bodies cut through the water, a thrilling reminder of the wild, untamed nature of this remote continent. A slight delay in our transit, caused by our collective desire to witness these magnificent creatures, only amplified the anticipation for our next destination.

We arrived at Foyn Harbour around 17:30. Our zodiacs took us on a sombre yet fascinating journey to the hauntingly beautiful shipwreck of the Governoren, a Norwegian whaling ship from 1915, a relic of a bygone era, a silent testament to the region's history and the brutal industry that once thrived here. The high clouds, at moments tinged with the colours of the setting sun, painted a unique canvas as we witnessed a final, breathtaking symphony of whale behaviour. Spy hopping, feeding, rolling, and playful flipper and fluke slapping filled our senses. It was a bittersweet moment, a poignant farewell to the continent, knowing our time was drawing to a close. The short, 1.5-hour cruise, cut short by the encroaching darkness, left us longing for even more.

Back onboard, a special Antarctic barbecue awaited us, a celebratory feast under the sky. We dined on the outside decks, the music and the shared joy creating a vibrant, almost festive atmosphere. We danced celebrating the incredible journey we were undertaking, the shared experiences that had forged a bond between us. Tired, but exhilarated, we retreated to our cabins, knowing the last day of our Deep South adventure was just around the corner, a final chapter in an unforgettable story. We fell asleep to the gentle rocking of the ship, the sounds of the Antarctic night a lullaby to our dreams.

After a crossing over the calm waves of the Bransfield Strait our beautiful blue Plancius had arrived at the entrance of Deception Island. Today would unfortunately be our last day, but the expedition team had prepared a full and very active schedule for us. And that schedule started around 07:00 A.M. when captain Evgeny steered the ship through Neptune’s Bellows into the caldera of Deception Island. Neptune’s Bellows is the only entrance into the caldera and it’s narrow and shallow which makes it a spectacular and exciting passage.

Right after we had entered, the ship made a right turn and headed for Whalers Bay which is located at the east side of the island. Whalers Bay is a former whaling station where thousands of whales were processed for their oil. The Norwegian Hektor station was used until 1931. Whale oil prices had dropped significantly and whaling had become a pelagic business. Whales were now caught and processed on board so the whaling stations were no longer needed.

Today large parts of the station still remain. We could still see the pressure cookers, the large storage tanks for the whale oil and some old rowing boats that were used in the hunt for whales. With the dark skies and gloomy weather, it made for the perfect atmosphere. Many of us visited the old buildings whereas others decided to walk up to Neptune’s Window, a beautiful view from where you can see the Antarctic peninsula on a clear day.

At 10:00 it was time for some fun, cold fun! The team had brought towels because many of us decided to participate in the traditional polar plunge! With water temperatures close to zero degrees it was going to be a very refreshing plunge, but many of us were very brave and some even ran into the water before diving in. It was a lot of fun, but it was also nice to enjoy the warm shower afterwards ;).

Lunch was served while we left Deception Island behind us as we set course towards Half Moon Island for our last landing. Half Moon Island has beautifully colored lichen and it is home to Chinstrap Penguins.

We enjoyed the landing a lot as we saw many cute Chinstraps, but we also saw Fur Seals, a Weddell Seal and even an Elephant Seal was spotted. Unfortunately, we had to return to the landing site on time as the captain wanted to sail out at 17:30 latest. We already had done our dues on the Drake “Shake” Passage on the way down, and the captain wanted to try and avoid this for the way back.

After recap and dinner, some of us went to the bar for a coffee or something stronger. But many of us were tired so we decided to relax in our cabins instead.

As we bid farewell to the icy grandeur of the Antarctic Peninsula and the remarkable journey beyond the Antarctic Circle, MV Plancius set course northward across the infamous Drake Passage. However, unlike our tumultuous southbound crossing, today gifted us with a remarkably serene and sun-drenched experience, making for a far more pleasant return to more temperate latitudes.

The weather was nothing short of glorious—clear skies and bright sunshine illuminated the vast, rolling expanse of the Southern Ocean. The sea state remained calm throughout the day, a welcome relief for those who had endured the rough seas on our voyage south. The gentle motion of the ship, rather than the violent pitching and rolling we had previously encountered, allowed everyone to enjoy the passage in comfort. With the ship gliding smoothly over the waves, spirits were high, and passengers took full advantage of the conditions to reflect on the incredible expedition we had just completed.

The birdlife on this leg of the journey did not disappoint. The open ocean provided ample opportunities for birdwatching, and we were treated to spectacular sightings of some of the most magnificent seabirds in the world. Black-browed, Grey-headed, and Light-mantled Albatrosses graced the skies, their effortless gliding a marvel to behold. A particular highlight was the sighting of a Wandering Albatross, its enormous wingspan a reminder of nature’s astonishing adaptations to life at sea. Southern Fulmars and Cape Petrels were also abundant, their dynamic flight patterns adding to the spectacle. For those with a keen eye, the presence of several elusive Kerguelen Petrels provided a rare and thrilling sighting, a fitting reward for diligent observers scanning the horizon.

Beyond the impressive wildlife encounters, the day also featured a rich and engaging lecture programme, designed to further enhance our understanding of the Antarctic environment. The educational sessions began with Steffi’s informative talk on the crucial role of Antarctic Krill in sustaining the region’s complex food web. This tiny crustacean is the foundation of the Antarctic ecosystem, supporting everything from fish and seabirds to the mighty whales we had been fortunate enough to observe during our journey.

Joyce followed with an insightful presentation on the often-overlooked wildlife of the seabed, shedding light on the remarkable organisms that thrive in the frigid depths beneath the ice-laden waters. Marco then took us on a deep dive into oceanography, explaining how polar currents and the very presence of Antarctica itself shape global climate patterns, emphasizing the continent’s far-reaching influence on the planet’s systems.

The day’s lectures concluded with Fritz and Giulia, who shared the final findings from their research project on seal sample collection for toxin level analysis. Their work underscored the importance of ongoing scientific research in Antarctica, highlighting both the pristine nature of the region and the growing concerns about pollution and climate change.

As the day drew to a close, passengers gathered on deck to soak in the golden hues of the evening sky, reflecting on a remarkable expedition that had taken us to one of the most remote and awe-inspiring places on Earth. With the Drake Passage treating us kindly this time, we sailed northward in comfort, filled with memories of an extraordinary adventure.

Our second day across the turbulent waters of the Drake Passage unfolded with remarkable fortune, as the weather continued to favor us. A steady southerly breeze accompanied our northbound voyage, offering a smooth and steady passage. At a consistent speed of 11.5 to 12 knots, our little blue ship had made excellent progress overnight. By the time the wake-up call sounded, we had already reached the latitude of Cape Horn. This provided a natural barrier against the usual westerly winds, though today, we continued our gentle rolling from port to starboard—a rhythm that had, by now, become second nature.

As one fleeting storm gave way to moments of sunshine, the Procellariiformes remained ever-present, circling the ship in their graceful dance. White-chinned Petrels and Antarctic Prions flitted through the air, while the occasional Wandering or Royal Albatross made its majestic appearance. Here and there, we spotted Black-browed Albatrosses—a clear sign that South America was drawing near.

The morning’s schedule was rich with knowledge and discovery. Pelin commenced the day’s lectures with From Greenhouse to Icehouse, a geological journey through the transformations Antarctica has undergone across different eras, leading to its present-day position. Following this, Simon shared his extensive and fascinating experiences with bird ringing and data collection, offering insight into avian research across the British Isles and beyond. Just before lunch, excitement rippled through the ship as a playful pod of Peale’s dolphins appeared off the port side, escorting us toward the southeastern entrance of the Beagle Channel.

After lunch, the expedition guides gathered boots and equipment, busy with the meticulous task of packing up for the season’s end. In just a few months, the ship would leave these southern waters behind, repositioning to the Arctic Ocean for a new season of exploration in the north.

As we entered the calmer waters between Tierra del Fuego and the Chilean islands of Nueva and Lennox, Jakub took to the stage in the lounge. His presentation on the cryosphere illuminated the stark realities of global warming, shedding light on the profound impact climate change will have on our world in the coming decades.

The afternoon drew to a heartfelt close with laughter and celebration. Captain Levakov joined us in the lounge for a final toast, while Expedition Leader Adam expressed gratitude to the dedicated crew and staff who had made our journey truly unforgettable. A touching slideshow, skillfully compiled by Joyce, captured the breathtaking beauty of the continent we had just left behind—a lasting memento of an extraordinary adventure.

Excitement filled the air during our final dinner on board. As the Argentine pilot took control of the vessel, guiding us safely into the harbor of Ushuaia, we reflected on the memories made, the wonders witnessed, and the profound connection we had forged with the great white wilderness.

We arrived in Ushuaia early this morning, marking the end of our journey. After enjoying a final breakfast aboard Plancius, we gathered our belongings and made our way to the gangway. We exchanged farewells with the incredible team onboard and the friends we had made along the way. While some of us set off to explore Ushuaia, others prepared for their flights home. As we departed, we took one last look at Plancius, reminiscing about the unforgettable moments and perhaps already dreaming of future adventures.