OTL23-24, trip log, Weddell Sea - In search of the Emperor Penguin, incl. helicopters

The day had finally come! It was time to board the good ship Ortelius for our Antarctic expedition to search for emperor penguins! It was a warm day in Ushuaia and the surrounding scenery of snow-encrusted mountains was spectacular. A few early arrivals wandered around the dock waiting for embarkation time. They could see a helicopter sitting on Ortelius’ flight deck, one of three that would be sailing with us. The one on deck was callsign CC-CHQ, otherwise known as ‘Quebec’. Two more helicopters, LV-CUT - ‘Tango’ and LV-CUS – ‘Sierra’ were tucked up in the adjacent hangar with the blades removed. The crew and Expedition Team had loaded our luggage onboard and delivered it to our cabins earlier in the day. All that remained was for us to take a few photos of Ortelius, our home for the next ten days, before heading up the gangway.

We were warmly welcomed by the crew and Expedition Team who assisted us in finding our cabins. We had some time to explore the ship, get our bearings and grab a coffee in the bar. Everyone was on board by 14:45. Then, it was time to gather in the lecture room for the mandatory ship safety briefing. Once complete, we could sail, and we wanted to get going as soon as possible. We met Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, and heard from Safety Officer Martin Hansson, who gave a practical demonstration on how to put on our emergency life jackets. Next it was time for an abandon ship drill. We went to our cabins and upon hearing the general alarm, got our lifejackets, and went to our muster station in the bar. From there we were guided to our lifeboats, so we knew where to go in case of a real emergency.

As we made our way out to the lifeboats, Captain Per pulled Ortelius away from the dock and got us under way. We departed Ushuaia at precisely 15:10. A wave of excitement ran through the ship as everyone realised that our long-awaited and much-anticipated voyage had finally begun. With the drill completed, many of us lingered on the outer decks to enjoy the glorious scenery of the Beagle Channel as Ortelius was brought up to full speed. At 16:20 Captain Per invited us to join him in the bar for champagne and canapés, to raise a glass and toast the voyage ahead. This was followed by an introduction to shipboard services by Hotel Manager Volodymyr, and an overview of our expedition by our illustrious leader Sara. Before this concluded we met the Expedition Team.

With briefing formalities concluded, it was time for our first evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection prepared by Head Chef Ivan and his galley team, served by the ever-friendly dining room staff. After dinner we were called back to the bar so that two more mandatory briefings could be delivered. Because 100% attendance is required, these briefings were done while Ortelius was still in the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. Expedition Leader Sara first briefed us on the Antarctic Visitor Guidelines, as laid down by IAATO – the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – of which Oceanwide is a founding member. And then Sara gave us the Zodiac Safety Briefing. How lucky we were to have both Zodiacs and helicopters at our disposal on this exciting voyage. During the briefings, a pilot boat came alongside, and the Ushuaia harbour pilot was disembarked.

After a long and exciting day, it was time for bed and some well-earned rest. What would tomorrow bring? As the sun dipped below the horizon, the first bit of “ocean motion” was felt. It was very gentle, but it reminded everyone that we were leaving the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel and heading out into the mighty Southern Ocean. The infamous Drake Passage lay ahead. We hoped (some prayed) that it would be kind.

“Good morning, good morning, good morning”. Sara announced over the PA system this morning - our first full day of the voyage. I’m sure we’ll have many more encounters with the Sara alarm clock over the next 10 days. Yesterday was an excellent start to the voyage with a few important briefings and a very pleasant run down the Beagle channel. Overnight, we continued making good speed. The day began with excellent conditions on the Drake Lake. Despite the mild conditions, we still had a few passengers feeling less than healthy with the rocking of the ship. On the early morning bridge watch, it became clear that we were in for a wonderful day of birds around the ship. We had a giant southern royal albatross from the very beginning, along with light-mantled and black-browed albatrosses. Squadrons of cape petrels and southern fulmars were circling the ship all day as well. Whales were scarce with only two observations of very distant blows in the morning.

Gary began the lecture series with “Ice is Nice”. He told us all about the ice covering the continent and how it all began as snowfall over millions of years. We talked about icebergs, bergy bits and growlers. Then onto the formation of sea ice and how it dominates life in Antarctica - and even creates much of the currents that drive the whole ocean’s circulation. As the morning progressed, we had Jess bring us up to speed with all the cetaceans that we may see on our trip. She’s clearly an expert in that field as she ran down the characteristics of the species and how we can identify them if we spot them on our voyage. Lots of good information over the morning.

Lunch was a bit of a turning point. Once we had our lunch, we were back in business mode. We all had to take part in the great ‘gumboot giveaway’. Everyone, in turn (deck-by-deck) came down to the lecture room and tried on one two three, or more pairs in order to find the best fit of muck boot to use for the voyage. Muck boots are a great choice for Antarctic trips. With their neoprene tops and well-insulated feet, they are comfy, warm and dry for almost everything we do from the ship. It took us a while to get boots fitted for everyone, but once we did that, it was time for more serious business. We all gathered in the bar for our mandatory briefing on helicopter operations. Tomorrow we will go through a complete simulated helicopter operation, but today we had a video and briefing on safety around the machines and what the procedures on the ship and at the landing site will be like. We went away, we hope, as experts.

That pretty well finished the day. At the daily recap, Sara showed us that the weather would continue to be mild for the rest of our crossing and that we expect to be able to complete a landing in Deception Island before dinner tomorrow. Great news! We’re really getting down to the nitty gritty now. After the business part of the briefing & recap, Sara gave us a great demonstration about just how large the birds around the ship really are. The smallest little Wilson’s storm petrel with a wingspan of just 40 cm (16 inches) to the massive wandering albatross at a whopping 3.5 meters (12 feet)! Gary gave us a short lesson on how seabirds use variations in windspeed for dynamic soaring, and Bill exalted us to look, see, think and do!

After dinner there was a lovely sunset developing as we noted a few whales nearby and everyone continued to photograph the remarkable parade of albatrosses around the ship. Sometime around dinner we entered the biological realm of Antarctica when we crossed the Antarctic Convergence, as the water and air temperature began to drop quicky. That put us in Antarctic waters. But about the time everyone was heading for bed, we also crossed the 60˚ South latitude and officially entered the politically recognized border of Antarctica. So, we are here. Hopefully everyone went to bed dreaming of penguins and seals and whales, and the marvelous adventures we look forward to in the coming days. All in all, it had been a truly fantastic day in the Drake Passage – a day when seabirds completely stole the show!

Our second morning in the Drake Passage started with quite a large, lazy swell that was being generated by a ‘purple monster’ weather system just over the horizon to the west of us. The weather with us was very good, with a moderate northerly wind pushing us along. We all slept quite well thanks to the gentle rolling of Ortelius as she made excellent progress through the long Drake Passage swells towards Antarctica.

After breakfast Sara gave a lecture about her favorite subject…. penguins. It was fascinating to see how these incredible birds can survive in the harsh environment of Antarctica, for which they have evolved perfectly. One species does everything very differently to the rest and breeds on sea ice! These are the elusive emperor penguins, which are very much the focal point of our exciting voyage. Therefore, we had to prepare ourselves for going to see these beautiful creatures, which weather and sea-ice permitting, would be in the next few days or so. So as soon as Sara’s lecture finished, the remainder of the morning was taken up with two very important activities.

In our newly formed Activity Groups, we were called on a rotating basis to the lecture room for biosecurity checks, and to the bar for a dry run through the helicopter operation procedures. For the biosecurity checks, expedition staff inspected all our bags and outer layers, including gloves, hats, and boots. They all had to be perfectly clean. Yesterday we were encouraged to collect paperclips from reception, which are the ideal tool for cleaning the narrow grooves on the soles of the boots and any velcro on our equipment.

The dry run for the helicopters was what might otherwise be called “a full dress rehearsal”. Firstly, we had to wear and carry everything that we would when the time came to do it for real. We learned where we had to go for the check-in (the bar) and what preparations are required before flying. This included de-activating the automatic inflation devices on our life jackets. Lastly, we were issued with ear defenders and then guided out to the helideck by Expedition Staff. For the first time we had the chance to get in the helicopters. There is not much space, but it was great fun, and the engineers were happy to oblige with taking photos. We tried the 4-seater helicopter sitting on the helideck, then we went inside the hangar to try one of the 5-seater helicopters. These activities finished just in time for lunch.

Meanwhile, the first iceberg was spotted. It was a large one which Captain Per passed close by. From then on, as we closed in on the South Shetland Islands, more and more ice came into view. Lots of black-browed and light-mantled albatrosses were flying around the ship for much of the day, but we lost them as the South Shetlands came into view. But the ever-delightful cape petrels stayed with us. This was their home! The temperature fell, the wind freshened, and it started to rain. Typical weather for the South Shetland Islands.

After lunch we had an early briefing and recap, during which Sarah gave us the plans for tomorrow. Deception Island came into view, and as we approached the entrance to the famous caldera, we were encouraged to be out on deck for the exciting navigational experience of sailing through Neptune’s Bellows. Once safely inside, we turned to starboard, and Ortelius anchored in Whalers Bay. Then we headed out for our first landing in Antarctica, and everybody was excited. From the ship we could see the remains of the Whaling Station and British base, and soon we were in Zodiacs for a choppy ride to shore. Along the beach there was steam rising, reminding us that we were inside the caldera of an active volcano!

On shore we had plenty of time to explore the ruins and have a good walk, which was very welcome after almost two days at sea. In one direction we could go to an old aircraft hangar where expedition guide Jens explained the history. In the other direction and much further down the beach we were able to walk to Neptune’s Window, a large gap in the caldera wall where the cliff has fallen away. Here expedition guide Bill was on hand to make sure we were safe on the cliff edge, which in some places is very loose and dangerously undercut. The view from this unique vantage point was fantastic! Here and there along the beach, there were gentoo penguins, which everyone was very excited to see. There was even greater excitement when a solitary chinstrap penguin and a young elephant seal were found on the black volcanic beach.

The polar underwater explorers (snorkelers) went for a check snorkel from the beach. Penguins were going in and out around them and they saw some shells in the clear water. After the check they went ashore and joined everybody else along the beach. Before the landing ended, there was the opportunity for a ‘Polar Plunge’ for anyone who was keen. About 17 people decided to go for it, dressed in bathing suits of all descriptions. Hearty congratulations to everyone who braved the frigid Antarctic water. The Zodiacs whisked us back to the ship for hot showers and a visit to the bar, which was filled with excitable chatter after our first landing in Antarctica. Captain Per guided Ortelius out through Neptune's Bellows and set a course for our next destination.

Another day… another day of high Oceanwide Expedition expectations! After breakfast the Zodiacs were deployed for the transfer to Penguin Island, dominated by a beautiful volcanic caldera named Deacon Peak. The sea was calm with just a gentle swell which made landing on the beach easy, although several people found the boulder strewn shoreline difficult. Expedition Guide Allan marched off ahead to position marker poles along the route up to the rim of the volcano. Penguin expert Gary and other expedition guides marked out a shorter, less demanding route leading to a chinstrap penguin colony along the shore. This was a hive of activity with courtship and copulation in full flow.

Soon the landscape was dotted with gaily clad figures. The path up the slopes of the steep sided caldera zig-zagged upwards to the narrow ridge line. All who reached the top had the exciting opportunity to circumnavigate this stunning hill. Cameras clicked and we savoured the views in all directions as we completed the 1.5 km circuit of the volcanic rim. From the highest point of 170m (558 ft) there were spectacular views to the north over the heavily glaciated landscape of King George Island, the largest of the South Shetland Islands. Looking inwardly and down into the crater, there was the extraordinary sight of what looked like a baby volcano sitting within the main volcano. Deacon Peak was last thought to have been active about 300 years ago. Another, much smaller crater - Petrel Crater - was clearly visible lower down on the east side of the island. This is thought to have last erupted in or around 1905.

The sea remained calm with no wind, and in complete contrast to the previous day, the temperature was relatively mild. For those who ventured up Deacon Peak, the guttural belches of elephant seals and screeching calls of chinstrap penguins could be heard far away. These were highly unusual conditions for the South Shetlands, which are usually a wild and windy place…. as we experienced the previous day at Deception Island. This was an interesting landing enjoyed by all, with great options for wildlife viewing, hiking and stunning views.

Ortelius remained at her anchorage, and in the afternoon, we wrapped up warmly for a Zodiac cruise along the coastline of King George Island, between the rocky outcrops of Three Sisters Point and Turret Point. Weather and visibility had changed dramatically from the morning. It was much colder, thick mist descended over the sea and heavy snow began falling. Breaking waves surged suddenly and dramatically in places as the swell cascaded across the reefs running parallel to the shoreline. During the cruise nice views were had of elephant seals, giant petrels - including two of the rare white morph kind - and a beautiful blue iceberg. As we returned to the ship, the Zodiacs and passengers were covered in snow …everyone exhibiting happy smiles…it had been a true Antarctic adventure.

To follow up our Penguin Island landing with the chinstraps, our highly experienced wildlife researcher Gary delivered an ‘all you need to know’ recap on these charismatic birds. This was followed by Bill delivering a detailed educational presentation explaining the history, construction and operation of Ortelius. Guests appreciated how he used his creative sense of humour to illustrate interesting points. He managed to cover an astonishingly wide range of nautical facts in the recap slot, finishing exactly on time for dinner at 19:00.

Evening entertainment in the packed bar started with Gary our penguin expert introducing the animated movie “Happy Feet” on which he had been the penguin advisor. It was fascinating to hear Gary explain the complex electronic techniques used in the making of the movie. Expedition Staff dispensed large cups of popcorn as everyone enjoyed the hilarious antics of Memphis, Norma Jean, Mumble and his girlfriend Gloria.

It had been another superb Oceanwide Expeditions day, with rising anticipation of more to come once we enter the Weddell Sea!

What a morning!!! The ‘’early birds’’ enjoyed calm seas and little wind as we approached the notoriously icy waters of Antarctic Sound. But later, we experienced 50+ knots of wind and rough sea conditions when Sara’s wake-up call invited us out for a pre-breakfast look at Hope Bay and Argentina’s Esperanza Station. After breakfast, Pippa gave an interesting lecture about pinnipeds – all the seals that we have – and might encounter down here! Despite the strong winds, the decision was made to take a closer look at Brown Bluff, a well-known but very exposed landing site in Antarctic Sound, which is rarely visited due to either weather, sea or ice conditions. This is a continental landing with lots of wildlife, so it was a very attractive possibility for us. As the wind direction had shifted to southerly, we were sheltered by the towering cliffs that give Brown Bluff its name, and the staff scouting party quickly reported very favorable conditions on the beach. Lunch was pushed back to 13:00, and for the remainder of the morning we enjoyed quality time with the local gentoo and adelie penguin colonies. There was lots of activity - stealing pebbles, nest building, courtship, copulation, disputes and conflict, along with the usual to-ing and fro-ing from the water. Not only the wildlife was fascinating – the majestic landscape, icebergs, dark clouds in the distance and sunny spells on the glaciers made the experience a very special and very rare one. Our little miracle of the day!

After a well-deserved lunch, Allan gave his interesting historic lecture about the Nordenskjöld Expedition in 1901-1903, sharing the details of all the hardships the crew went through, being divided into three groups - after their ship, Antarctic was crushed by the ice and sank - and not really knowing where each other were! Wintering in Antarctica 120 years ago was not for the faint hearted, but despite all their hardships, the expedition ended well – they had their miracles as well – though on a very different level!!

Later in the afternoon our bridge officers “parked” Ortelius very nicely in denser ice, where there was no wind, milder temperatures and light snowfall. This was our entrance to the Weddell Sea, and what better way to celebrate than with hot chocolate laced with rum and topped with cream, served on the bow. It was so idyllic!

As we reversed out of the ice (no pushing was needed) and continued south towards Snow Hill Island, Ward Dekkers, our Second Officer gave a very interesting lecture about all the navigational and safety equipment that we see every day on the bridge. This brilliant presentation was delivered in a professional and very humorous way. We had the opportunity to play the ‘roles’ of waves, icebergs and ships, as Ward explained how radar works. Ward concluded his talk with a friendly but important reminder; Don’t touch the buttons on the bridge!

At recap we received the final information about the helicopter operations that we hoped to make use of tomorrow, and Sara showed us a weather forecast that looked very promising indeed. To decide in which order the activity groups would go, a fair and democratic method was used. Group 4 was pulled out of one pot as the starting group, and from another pot ‘ascending’ was pulled out as the rotational order. To end a fantastic day, after dinner Captain Per ‘’parked’’ Ortelius in front of a big iceberg covered with Antarctic shags that appeared to be roosting for the night. It was a spectacular scene from the bow, with a backdrop of Seymour Island and Argentina’s Marambio Station clearly visible on the highest plateau, and the setting sun slowly dropping behind the distant form of Snow Hill Island. Days rarely get better than this! We retired to the comfort of our bunks wondering what tomorrow might bring.

Well, this morning started a wee bit earlier than usual. Our wake-up call came at 07:00 and we were told that we would be starting helicopter operations around 08:30. Our excitement quickly turned to frustration and a very big concern. Despite a test run at 04:00, the pumping system for refuelling the helicopters refused to operate. Of course, we could not operate without being able to refuel, so everything ground to a halt. We waited, and we waited, and we waited as the anxiety rose. Finally, around 09:00 - about 2 hours after we were supposed to start, the engine room guys managed to replace the pump and a faulty gasket. Now it was all systems GO. The day had started clear and bright, but high cloud now sat over Snow Hill.

Sara, Pippa, Jens and Phillip set out to scout the area and find a place for us to land at the Snow Hill Emperor Penguin colony. Word came back shortly after that they were successful. One more helicopter with expedition staff and equipment flew out to prepare the site, before starting with activity group 4. One after another, flights departed for Snow Hill. Everything worked very efficiently all day. There was some cloud cover, but the light was bright and our enthusiasm for where we were and what we witnessed kept us from feeling the cold too much, despite the chill wind blowing most of the day.

And what a day we all had. We saw many penguins coming and going from the sea. Some walked while others laid on their bellies to toboggan across the ice. They are so fat, and their legs are so short, that their knees don’t get in the way of the walking action when they are on their bellies and tobogganing. What a wonderful way to traverse long distances of ice! So many chicks without too many parents. There were about 300 chicks at that portion of the colony and only about 100 adults. Given that every chick has two parents, it was clear that most parents were out at sea gathering food to bring back to the chicks. The chicks varied in size.

Mostly the chicks would have hatched around the first week of August in the dead of winter. That makes them between 3.5 and 4.5 months old. All of them were big enough that they did not need to be brooded by the parents. That’s a great advantage; no messing around, just come home, find your chick, give it what’s in your belly and go back to sea to get more. On the other hand, the chicks are curious and wander extensively - sometimes even as far as another distant neighbourhood. Now the returning parent needs to wander all over the place calling to find their chick. Meanwhile, some adults did not have chicks, so they spend their time socializing with each other, or just taking a break. Alas, our allocated 90 minutes on the ice flew by and, before we knew it, we had to take our leave and return to the ship.

But the fun wasn’t over yet. With Ortelius parked neatly in fast ice, it was perfect for a little walk around the ship. Once the Expedition team had given the area a safety check, everyone who wanted to take a walk on the sea ice was called down the gangway. The photo opportunities were fantastic, including one ‘towing the ship’ through the ice. We were visited by two emperor penguins who curiously wandered over to check out the unusual ‘penguins’ all gathered around a weird looking iceberg (Ortelius). What a fantastic day. As we finished the evening, the decision was made to stay in position and hope for a second opportunity to take the helicopters back to the emperors tomorrow. The weather forecast was very good. So, we all went to bed dreaming of our emperor penguin encounters from the day, and with high hopes of more tomorrow.

Our second day at Snow Hill Island brought another extraordinary experience with the emperor penguin colony, reaffirming why this location is such a highlight of any Antarctic journey. The day unfolded seamlessly, from the helicopter ride and sea ice landing to the magical moments spent with these iconic creatures.

The expedition began early in the morning with ideal weather conditions that allowed us to operate the helicopters efficiently. Our skilled pilots once again provided smooth transfers to the landing site on the ice, one kilometre from the colony. From the moment we arrived, the excitement was palpable. The sight of these remarkable birds set against the pristine white landscape was nothing short of breathtaking.

We could hear the penguin chicks from a distance, while approaching the colony. These fluffy bundles of grey down were as endearing as ever, toddling around their parents or wandering off with their little friends. It’s hard not to smile when watching them. Their clumsy movements and curious nature make them utterly captivating. Everyone was especially delighted by the chicks’ occasional attempts to waddle closer to our group, showing an innocent curiosity that mirrors their parents’ boldness.

Speaking of the adult emperors, their behavior was equally fascinating. Many of them displayed an impressive lack of fear, walking confidently toward us and inspecting our group with what seemed to be genuine curiosity. It is moments like these - when wildlife initiates the encounter - that make Antarctic expeditions so special. It was a classic case of “who is watching who?” Seeing these majestic birds up close, listening to their distinctive calls and observing their social interactions provided endless opportunities for awe-inspiring connection. The Emperor penguins touched the hearts of all of us!

Once back on board the ship, the day’s adventure wasn’t quite over. We reversed out of our parking space in the ice, and in the evening, Captain Per brought Ortelius to a halt next to a beautiful tabular iceberg. We gathered on the top deck for a special Antarctic barbecue. Against a backdrop of the beautiful, layered ice-cliff of the frozen monster, and with a light breeze in the air, the aroma of grilled food wafted across the decks. It was a joyous and celebratory atmosphere, with hearty laughter and shared stories of the day’s highlights echoing through the crisp Antarctic air. And then the dancing started. This outdoor celebration was the perfect way to round off two incredible days at Snow Hill Island.

“I now belong to an elite group of humans, for I have walked among emperors”. - Quote by anonymous Oceanwide guide.

After the excitement of Snow Hill Island, Ortelius made good progress through the night and we woke up in a stormy Bransfield Straight, with 50 - 60 knots of wind and considerable swell. It was a bit of a shock to the system after the motionless days and nights we had enjoyed since arriving in Antarctica. We were heading back towards the wild and windy South Shetland Islands. After breakfast Gary gave an informative lecture on the life cycle of emperor penguins. He explained, amongst other things, why the females lay their eggs just before the onset of winter, and why the males incubate the egg and tiny chick through the long Antarctic winter, facing the harshest conditions on Earth.

Today was always going to be a sad day, as we had to say goodbye to our wonderful helicopter pilots and engineers. Ortelius made her way into a very windy Maxwell Bay at the west end of King George Island, while the aircrew prepared everything for departure. This area is home to several Antarctic bases, including a large Chilean station called Base Presidente Eduardo Frei (just known as ‘Frei’). The station has a large airstrip which provides a regular airlink with Chile. Our air crew were keen to get going as they all had flights to catch and loved ones to see at home. Their helicopters would remain at the station for upcoming assignments. At 10.15 Quebec took off, followed by Sierra and then Tango. We waved them a fond farewell. The entire DAP Helicopters team were instrumental in making the emperor penguin colony accessible to us, and their dedication, professionalism and good humour were very quickly missed.

Before departing Maxwell Bay, we had some good sightings of a humpback whale, which eventually graced us with a tail fluke (and a poop) before disappearing into deeper water. The wind was still very strong, and we were keen to try and find some shelter for one last activity before heading out into the Drake Passage. Sara and Captain Per opted for Half Moon Island, some 4½ hours away. The forecast suggested it would also be windy there, but it was the only possibility within reach that might work. The course was set, and we all headed off to lunch.

The afternoon saw Tanja giving an inspiring talk about her 2017 experience at Cape Washington in the Ross Sea, working as a doctor and diving supervisor for a film crew making a documentary about emperor penguins. Tanja’s lecture was beautifully illustrated with all her own pictures and delivered with a delightful mix of passion and humour.

At 16:00 we arrived at Half Moon Island, home to Argentina’s Cámara Station (summer only), and a small colony of chinstrap penguins. Unfortunately, the sheltered conditions we hoped for were not present. Instead, we found ferocious winds coming off neighboring Livingstone Island which produced gusts regularly in excess of 70 knots, and almost reaching 80 knots at times. It was obvious that any kind of Zodiac operation was out of the question, even when the wind appeared to steady in the mid 50 knots. So, reluctantly, we turned around and departed for Nelson Strait, our gateway to the Drake Passage.

The evening recap was opened by Jens with an explanation on how polar winds form, and then Bill showed a short and impressive video of what it can be like in heavy weather on the bow of the Ortelius. A day of strong winds, and sad farewells ended with the animated movie ‘Happy Feet 2’ in the bar, which was accompanied by popcorn.

The morning started as usual, with a wake-up call from Expedition Leader Sara. Ortelius was proceeding north at full speed with a rolling motion which had given most of us a good night’s sleep. After breakfast, guests were called one deck at a time to the lecture room to return muck boots, helicopter landing cards, Zodiac life vests and any rental gear. With that task done, some headed for the bridge to check out what wildlife was accompanying us. There was surprisingly little - just the occasional southern fulmar and cape petrel. The lack of albatrosses was a surprise for the expedition staff on bridge watch. A few distant whale blows were seen during the morning, but the long range and rough sea state made identification very difficult.

There were several very interesting lectures throughout the day. Phillip was first up with an exciting talk entitled “A Snowmobile Journey down the Antarctic Peninsula”. This was all about a field trip he made during the summer of 1988-89 while working with the British Antarctic Survey. Then later in the morning there was a fantastic lecture by Wei about “Underwater Photography. Following another great lunch, there was time to relax and reflect on the extraordinary experiences of this voyage. Some slept, some sorted through photographs, some chatted with new friends. At 16:15 Pippa gave a talk in the bar entitled ‘From Resources to Research – History of the exploitation of Whales’. Then daily recap and dinner followed, but the day wasn’t over yet. After dinner we were invited to join Expedition Guide Jess in the bar for a special Antarctic quiz full of questions about our voyage. Teams of 4-6 people were formed, and the fun began. What a great way to round off the day!

We woke up to find that Ortelius had made good progress north through the night but had unfortunately run into rougher conditions generated by a “purple monster” that was approaching from the Pacific. The trademark “good morning, good morning, good morning” announcement from Sara informed us that the outside air temperature had risen considerably from 24 hours prior, confirming that we had re-crossed the Antarctic Convergence and returned to a more temperate region. The wind was at around 40 knots, with 3 - 4 metres of swell.

After breakfast we started to deal with some of those pre-disembarkation tasks, such as settling our shipboard accounts. The public spaces were rather quiet as the weather worsened. By 09:00 we had wind that was steady at just over 60 knots, and the swell had increased to 5 metres. This was now a force 10 storm. Cape Horn was still some 50+ nautical miles away, so it would be well after lunch before we got there with our reduced speed. At 09:15 Gary invited us to the bar for his lecture entitled “Overwinter life on an Australian Antarctic Station”. This was the story of Gary’s personal experience when he worked at Australia’s Mawson Station in 2008. Then at 11:30 expedition guide Bill Smith gave a very interesting and thought-provoking lecture entitled ‘Paintings of the Sea - The Meaning of the Sea in Paintings’.

As Ortelius closed in on Cape Horn, some of us took the opportunity to start packing. Others remained horizontal. Those who ventured up to the bridge were mesmerised by the big waves breaking over the bow, sending massive plumes of spray into the air. It was lovely to see that we were not alone on this stormy ocean. Ortelius was in company with the usual bird life for the region - petrels, prions, shearwaters, and of course a variety of albatrosses. Any albatross gliding over the Southern Ocean is a sight to behold, but the masterful and elegant wandering albatross with its enormous 3.5 metre wingspan left everyone completely awestruck. These ‘marathon birds’ are completely at home riding the wild winds of the deep south. The stronger it blows, the happier they seem to be. The love and respect for these incredible birds is hard to put into words, especially when we consider the mariner’s legend that every albatross carries the soul of a sailor lost at sea. It is truly the bird of good omen for all who work upon the oceans of the World. These sentiments are nicely captured in the immortal words of English poet Samuel Taylor-Coleridge (1772-1834), from his epic work ‘The Rime of the Ancient Mariner’…

At length did cross an Albatross, through the fog it came.

As if it had been a Christian soul, we hailed it in God’s name.

Just after lunch Cape Horn appeared through the haze at the 1 o’clock position ahead of the ship. Rather appropriately, the wind increased even more as we closed in on ‘The Horn’, and the wind speed indicator on the Bridge was soon showing gusts more than 70 knots. The Second Officer took a call from the Chilean Navy Station at Cape Horn by VHF radio, and we were granted permission to approach to within 3 nautical miles of the infamous landmark. By 14:30 we were as close as we could go, and Ortelius made a slow turn to starboard on to an easterly heading. Some braved the strong winds and spray to venture out on deck to admire and photograph the mighty Cape Horn.

Expedition Staff tried to point out the large albatross monument that overlooks the waters off Cape Horn. At the base of the monument there is a large plaque with the following words by Chilean writer Sara Vial…..

I am the albatross that waits for you at the end of the World.

I am the forgotten souls of dead sailors

who passed Cape Horn from all the oceans of the Earth.

But they did not die in the furious waves.

Today they fly on my wings towards eternity,

in the last trough of the Antarctic winds.

Our storm off Cape Horn was now a force 12 on the Beaufort Scale. It felt good to turn and go with it. Ortelius continued towards the more sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel, as preparations for disembarkation quietly progressed below decks. The ship had a much easier motion on this course. At 16:15 we were invited to join Sara in the bar for an excellent lecture entitled “Marine Threats”. This drew a sizeable and enthusiastic crowd who were keen to hear Sara talk about a subject that is very close to her heart.

At 18:15 we gathered in the bar for a farewell drink with Captain Per, and a toast to a very successful expedition. This was followed by a viewing of the expedition slideshow produced by Expedition Guide Jess Owen. This exciting reminder of a memorable journey was later available for all to save to mobile devices, USB sticks and SD cards, once we had enjoyed our final dinner onboard Ortelius. And what a great final dinner it was! Before dessert was served, Hotel Manager Volodymyr introduced his wonderful, hard-working team. The day closed with the welcome sensation of a motionless deck beneath our feet, as the land on both sides of the Beagle Channel closed in around us. Many went out on deck after dinner to take in the dramatic scenery. Anyone who took a late stroll around the decks before bed would have seen the Argentinian pilot boat come alongside and deliver the pilot that would guide us up the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia. There was an air of excitement around the ship. The voyage was almost over, and soon we would embark on the next leg of our individual adventures.

We docked in Ushuaia at 02:40, but most of us were oblivious to anything happening. Ortelius had successfully completed her second Antarctic voyage for the 2024/25 season! We woke up to a cloudy, calm, clear morning in Ushuaia, with the surrounding mountains reflected in the still harbour. The crew and Expedition Team handled all the luggage and placed it on the dock, while we enjoyed one last buffet breakfast. At 08:30 it was time for disembarkation. The voyage was over, and it was time to go our separate ways. Fond farewells were exchanged on the dock, as our band of intrepid adventurers dispersed and began the long journey home. For some, it was just the beginning of the next chapter in our own personal travel story.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,754 nautical miles. y

Southernmost position: 64°30’.33.3” S / 057°26’.07.2” W (Snow Hill colony).

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Per Andersson, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, Hotel Manager Volodymyr Cherednychenko and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you.

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team.

L-R: Wei, Jens, Phillip, Dr. Ninette, Gary, Jess, Luce, Pippa, Sara, Tanja, Bill, Allan.

Thank you from your DAP Helicopters team.

L-R: Marcelo (Pilot - Quebec), Cazely (Engineer), Julio (Chief Pilot - Tango), Mario (Chief Engineer), Marcelo (Pilot - Sierra), Fernando (Engineer).