PLA24-24, trip log, Falkland Islands - South Georgia - Antarctica

Today is the day! It is finally time for us to embark upon our epic adventure! In the late afternoon we arrived at our ship, Plancius, our new home for the next twenty days. It has been a long journey for most of us, so we were glad of the warm welcome provided by the Staff and Crew. The day was cloudy cold and rainy but the winds gentle ans the sea calm, a good omen for the three weeks ahead of us.

Ushuaia was good to us, some of us spending a few days exploring the area, birdwatching or simply enjoying the last opportunity for the comforting embrace of civilisation before the frigid weather ahead of us.

Boarding was smooth as we trickled in one by one into our new home. Finding our rooms fresh and tidy. Gathered later in the lounge we were introduced to our expedition team and the first officer.

We had to go through the mandatory emergency drill before being treated to some snacks and a customery glass of bubble after meeting our captain and the expedition team for a toast to a successful voyage.

The evening was spent navigating the Beagle channel and wonderous wildlife and landscapes, meeting our co travelers, new room mates and crew members with whom we will form a new happy family throughout the trip.

Our first day on our new home, Plancius, began with a wake-up call from our Expedition Leader, Adam. The little blue ship gently rocked in the waves, with seabirds following us along the way. Breakfast was well-attended, which suggests most people are feeling fine and not too many are suffering from seasickness.

In the morning, we had to go through several mandatory briefings. The IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators) provided guidelines on how to behave when visiting Antarctica. The rules for the Falklands and South Georgia are similar, so it was a good introduction to understanding how to respectfully move on land. We also got a brief overview of biosecurity measures to prevent the introduction of alien species into new areas, and to help combat avian flu, which continues to impact wildlife populations—not just birds.

Later, Adam gave us more details on Zodiac operations, so we would be well-prepared for our first outing in the Falklands. After a short rest and a delicious lunch, we were fitted with our boots—the preferred footwear for the trip—followed by an engaging lecture on seabirds by Steffi.

Sea days aren't too bad; in fact, we could get used to this. The sun came out in the afternoon, and many of us enjoyed the outer decks before gathering for a briefing about the upcoming day.

We're excited—Falkland Islands, here we come! Expedition guide Will gave us a brief history of the islands, and Steffi provided more insight into seabird dynamic soaring.

We’re looking forward to our first adventure day on the western islands of the Falklands, savoring dinner while eagerly anticipating what the next day will bring.

For those that were up early this morning, Plancius was escorted by dolphins as we approached the Falkland Islands. Commerson’s dolphins surfed along the sides of the vessel as the sun rose on misty seas. As we got closer to shore, we also had Peale’s dolphins join the ship and scattered whales were sighted.

Our route to West Point took us through the Wooly Gut. A narrow passage with Black-browed albatross and magellanic penguins on the shores and in the water.

We rounded the last corner of the passage and the settlement of West Point appeared with two small sail boats anchored just off the beach. Thijs and Kiki were at the pier to greet us as we arrived and offered rides to the bird colonies in their Land Rovers. Many of the ducks and geese had ducklings or goslings with them. The gorse created bright pops of yellow on the slopes of the island.

A nice leg stretch over the hill to the far side of the island took us to a mixed colony of Black-browed albatross and Southern rockhopper penguins nestled in tussac grass. Albatross circled closely over our heads with a quick whoosh as they passed. The Southern rockhoppers had tiny chicks tucked underneath their parents. After we had our time at the colony it was time for tea and cake at the house. The table was full of delicious treats prepared by the island caretakers.

The rain picked up as we left West Point and headed back to Plancius for lunch. Luckily conditions cleared just as we arrived at Saunders Island. Gentoo penguins greeted us on a white sandy beach. The caretakers of the island and their adorable dogs met us ashore and enjoyed the sunny afternoon with us. While exploring the island we had the ability to see 4 species penguins: gentoo penguins, king penguins, Southern rockhopper penguins, and magellanic penguins. Many of the gentoo penguins had two successful chicks tucked in their nests. The magellanic penguins were coming and going from their burrows on the slope as sheep were grazing nearby – a peak Falkland Islands image. The black-browed albatross colonies were spread out on the slopes on the far side of the island and we had such nice weather that we could walk to them all and have a visit.

During dinner, our course took us outside the islands to the north. We came upon a group of 10+ sei whales close to Plancius that were socializing and spending a lot of time at the surface. The evening light was beautiful catching their blows as they came up. The sunset was gorgeous – golden light catching the islands and shimmering on the calm sea. Throughout the rest of the evening we passed more and more sei whales including a group of over 20 individuals at last light. A perfect ending to a great day in the West Falklands.

Our day began with Adam’s friendly wake-up call as we made our way into Port Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. Gathered on deck, we watched as the Plancius navigated her way through “the Narrows”, a narrow strait leading into Stanley Harbour. We arrived at the jetty via zodiacs in the abnormally calm conditions and were greeted by a few hauled out South American sea lions. We later learnt that these sea lions were harbour ‘locals’ and even give birth to their pups on the jetty later in the season.

Once ashore, our group split up to explore Port Stanley’s attractions. Our bird enthusiasts headed out on some locally guided tours to spot some of the shorebirds and other local wildlife. They were lucky enough to spot the finch, banded plover, the rufous-chested dotterel, and the unique Magellanic snipe, and other species they were eager to tick off their Falkland Islands list.

Meanwhile, the rest of us immersed ourselves in the town’s history (and souvenir stores!). We strolled along the foreshore, admiring the quaint British inspired architecture, the iconic local land rovers driving by, and the shipwrecks that dotted the coast. We visited numerous monuments such as the ‘Whalebone Arch’, which was constructed in 1933 from the jawbones of two blue whales to honor the centenary of continuous British administration in the Falkland Islands. We also viewed the Christ Church Cathedral, which is the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world; the Saint Mary’s Church, and the Falklands War memorial. We gained a deeper insight into not only the famous war, but local culture and history at the Falkland Islands Museum, which hosted an impressive display of artifacts and exhibits.

And of course, a few pennies were spent in the local string of shops. Many bags were full of the famous locally distilled Falkland Island gin, handmade woollen garments (and balls of wool for the avid knitters!), numerous penguin souvenirs and of course the local diddle dee jam. The poor zodiacs were much heavier on our way back to the ship!

After a delicious lunch on board, we set sail for our ~ 2.5-day journey to South Georgia. The weather and swell were surprisingly calm, which gave plenty of us the opportunity to enjoy the outside decks and observe the black browed albatross soaring above, and hourglass dolphins swimming below.

We later joined Koen in the main lounge where he gave us an insightful and informative talk on photography. He enthusiastically told us all his tips and tricks for our upcoming encounters with wildlife and dramatic scenery.

We then had our daily briefing and recap, which told us all about our plans for the next day, followed by some interesting fun facts about giant kelp by Chloe, sei whales by Katlyn and the Antarctic Convergence by Steffi. After dinner, some of us retired out on deck where we ended our evening with another sighting of hourglass dolphins porpoising across the horizon at sunset. We couldn’t believe our luck with this beautiful calm sea state.

We were gently awakened by Adam’s pleasant morning call and weather update.

After breakfast, we made our way to the observation lounge for our morning activities. There, accompanied by a film narrated by David Attenborough and featuring breathtaking wildlife scenes from South Georgia, we learned about the importance of protecting its pristine ecosystem. We also discussed the guidelines for our upcoming landings, ensuring we would follow the expected behaviors to help preserve the environment.

Next, we focused on the practical application of these guidelines with a biosecurity check. We brought all our outdoor gear for inspection by the expedition team. Cleaning any equipment, where necessary, is crucial to prevent the introduction of alien species, which could have catastrophic consequences for the unique, endemic wildlife and the broader ecosystem.

After a delicious lunch, our AEL Steffi announced that the bridge team would be releasing an Argo Float, adding another special moment to our time aboard the M/V Plancius. Argo is an international program that uses free-drifting profiling floats to collect data from the ocean. These floats move with the currents, traveling between the surface and a mid-water level, measuring temperature and salinity in the upper 2,000 meters. Most of their life is spent below the surface, and the program works in tandem with the Jason Earth-observing satellites that track ocean surface shape.

Katlyn then gave us an overview of the different types of whales. We learned that there are two main categories of these fascinating marine mammals: baleen whales, which use keratin-based baleen plates (often referred to as "whalebone") in their mouths to filter planktonic creatures from the water, and toothed whales, a group that includes species like beaked whales and sperm whales, as well as dolphins, porpoises, and all other whales that have teeth instead of baleen.

Afterwards, Koen’s lecture guided us through penguin species of Antarctica, such as Gentoo, Adélie, Chinstrap, King, Emperor, Macaroni and Southern Rockhopper penguins.

Daily recap with Adam set the light on plans for tomorrow.

Around 8:30 PM we crossed the Antarctic Convergence. The Antarctic Convergence, also known as the Antarctic Polar Front, is a marine belt that surrounds Antarctica and shifts in latitude with the seasons. It is the boundary where the cold, northward-flowing Antarctic waters meet the relatively warmer waters of the sub-Antarctic. The denser Antarctic waters typically sink beneath the warmer sub-Antarctic waters, creating areas of mixing and upwelling. These processes lead to a region of exceptionally high marine productivity, particularly supporting abundant populations of Antarctic krill.

Good morning, good morning, good morning!

Today we woke up surrounded by fog, reducing the visibility, but creating a very scenic atmosphere. It was noticeably a bit colder out on the decks, now that we were fully in the Antarctic Convergence zone, also increasing our chances of spotting wildlife! In the morning there was already a pod of Pilot whales swimming past the ship!

After indulging in our amazing breakfast, we headed to the lounge to learn all about seals from Chloe. We learned that there are two types of seals, or pinnipeds (literally translated as ‘finfoot’), in the southern hemisphere, eared seals and earless seals or true seals. Eared seals include sea lions and fur seals, and they can walk funnily on their fins. Earless seals rely on their blubber for warmth and include Elephant seals, Weddel seals, Leopard seals, Ross seals and Crabeater seals.

The second morning activity was a documentary about Shackleton’s magnificent battle for survival. Really amazing how he managed to stay optimistic and lift the spirits of his fellow sailors, no matter how dire the situation. First on the sea ice, then rowing to Elephant Island, then sailing for 17 days in a safety boat to South Georgia, and THEN crossing the glaciated inland of South Georgia with barely any equipment to find the whaling station and eventually rescue everyone else who was on board the ship. Truly living by his own quote: ‘Through endurance we conquer’.

In the afternoon Koen was teaching us the best ways to take photographs of wildlife in the lounge. Whilst he was presenting, we immediately got to practice our skills with Humpback whales right next to the ship! There were also Antarctic fur seals, Antarctic prion, shags, and many other birds. The Antarctic Convergence was definitely living up to its name with all that wildlife!

We then passed Shag Rocks, six small islets 240km west of South Georgia and 1000km away from the Falklands, so truly isolated. It may look like there is white snow on the tops of them, as they are covered in guano from shags, prions and wandering albatross. Unfortunately, we were unable to see these mystical rocks because of the sea fog, so we had to imagine them.

We all got very excited during the recap, hearing about our first landing and zodiac cruise on South Georgia! Will told us all about the history of the islands, and we learned how to behave around the plentiful wildlife! :)

Good morning, M/V Plancius and welcome to South Georgia! After a very smooth and speedy crossing from the Falkland Islands we had arrived at one of the most beautiful, scenic and wildlife dense islands on the planet.

This morning the expedition team had planned our first landing at Right Whale Bay. The bay is named after the Southern Right Whales that visited here in abundant numbers before the start of industrial whaling during which they were hunted to the brink of extinction.

Southern Right whales are slowly recovering, and seeing them in these waters is still rare. However, upon approaching our anchoring position we could see the beaches being full of other wildlife. Without binoculars we could see elephant seals, fur seals and thousands and thousands of penguins. The sun had come out and the wind was almost nonexistent. All the ingredients were present for a perfect first landing.

We landed on the beach and were greeted by surprised and curious looking King Penguins. The penguins have no fear for us and keeping our distances was quite challenging with these beautiful penguins approaching us closely. The expedition team had tried setting out a nice extensive route, but due to the density of wildlife they were limited in where they could go. What a luxury problem to have; too much wildlife!

We enjoyed seeing the penguins, hearing their chicks whistle, seeing hundreds of new born fur seal pups and we practiced our “standing your ground” skills with the somewhat agitated fur seals. Less aggressive were the incredible cute elephant seal weaners. These young animals were curled up close to one another while letting out burps and sneezes regularly. However, in spite of their “inappropriate” behavior these young seals are the cutest especially when they open their big brown shiny eyes and look at you. Love is in the air ;)!

Time flew by and many of us didn’t want to leave this amazing place, but it was time to have lunch and relocate for our next activity.

For the afternoon a zodiac cruise at Salisbury Plain was planned. This place is the home of approximately 60,000 breeding pairs of King Penguins and it showed. From afar we could see the densely populated plains and with the sun still shining abundantly the landscapes looked surreal and we couldn’t wait to board the zodiacs to have a closer look.

We cruised along the shoreline while enjoying the stretched plains, the wild animals and the stunning snowy mountain backdrops. A bit further ahead we entered a little sheltered lagune where the guides parked the zodiacs on the beach for a close look at the King Penguins gathered there. With the sun being lower on the horizon, the light got a bit softer and we all clicked away not getting enough of this fantastic wildlife.

We had worked up quite appetite so after recap we enjoyed a delicious dinner. Afterwards we enjoyed the evening sceneries from the decks, we looked at our photos or we decided to go to sleep. It had been a wonderful day. Good night everyone!

As far as Friday 13th go we have seen worse. We woke up to stunning sunshine as we sailed our way in Husvik harbour. The Scenery was simply breathtaking, the aggressive mountains gave way to lush plains teaming with a healthy population of seals and penguins. The rundown whaling station with its many buildings contrasted with its vibrant ocre color resonating the tragedies that occurred within this bay where thousands upon thousands of whales were processed during the whaling era of South Georgia.

As we ate our breakfast our expedition team assessed the conditions on land. The Katabatic winds were fierse this day. Katabatic are violent gusts of wind surging from the icy polateau of south Georgia when it’s cold air meats the warmer ocean air creating pressure and intense winds. Landing wasn’t an option so we decided to take our zodiacs out for a cruise around the harbour and brave the strong winds.

Husvik offered close interaction with it’s fur seal population and many rivers, creaks and beaches.

In the afternoon we made our way to the most famous and oldest whaling station, Grytviken. Created in 1904 by Norwegian Explorer and sailor Carl Anton Larsen it was in operation until the 1960’. In Grytviken bay lies the only human settlement at King Edward Point, a handful of scientists, builders, engineers in charge of running the instalations along with the museum and post office.

Upon landing at Grytviken we were guided in the direction of the cemetery where lies the one and only Boss, Sir Ernest Shackleton, the legendary Irishman who died of a heartattack in his bed on his ship as it lay in the bay upon which he now looks over.

After a quick toast with the boss and his right hand man Frank Wid who lied next to him, we mad eour way through the fur seals into the heart of the whaling station. The path brought us through the slaughtering quai where the giant whales were pulled onto land and cut to pieces.

Further on was the beautiful Norwegian church bult in 1913 where Shackleton’s funeral was held in 1922. We ran the bells for good luck and left a work for the fallen sea farers that came here before us.

The museum offered a fascinating exibithon on the early whaling days of south herogia and its wildlife population along with the scientific work undertaken through the decades.

Next to the museum lie the Carr collection, which included a replica of the mythical James Caird, the wee boat used by Shackleton and his men to sail from Elephant island to South Georgia braving currents and life threatening seas.

Our visit was a real pleasure, even if we were forced to leave early due to the fierce weather raching now with winds thgat would blow one off his feet.

We regained the safety of Plancius and caried on our way.

This morning, we all woke up to perfect conditions. We had been anchored at St. Andrew since late morning. This beautiful bay is home to the largest king penguin colony in South Georgia, with 250,000 breeding pairs calling this place home.

Soon after, the Expedition Team went ashore, and we followed. The boats dropped us off at one end of the beach, and we began our hike toward the colony. There was a bit of adventure involved, as we had to cross two riverbeds. Adam and his team gave us helpful tips on how to navigate them and assisted where needed. Most of us stayed dry. The final stretch was easy and enjoyable, with wildlife all around. Penguins wandered nearby, and the freshwater areas were filled with fluffy chicks and moulting penguins. Among them, we saw some fur seals and elephant seals making interesting noises from every opening of their bodies. How cute!

Along the way, some skuas had made their nests, but we received good advice on how to avoid the young skuas and enjoyed watching them start their journey in life.

At the end of our short hike, we reached a hill overlooking the colony. The sounds were incredible—chicks whistling while their parents called out to them, and pairs engaging in courtship as they prepared for the new breeding cycle. And yes, we smelled them too, but it wasn’t as bad as we expected. What an experience—absolutely mind-blowing.

Slowly, we made our way back. The river was rising in the meantime, but it was no problem. Our Expedition Team guided us safely across, and a bit of water in the boots didn’t hurt anyone. What a morning! South Georgia truly doesn’t get any better than this.

During lunch, we set off on a two-hour trip back north. Our afternoon destination was Godthul, an incredibly beautiful, sheltered bay surrounded by towering mountains. Once again, the conditions were perfect.

We had the opportunity to choose from three different activities: a long hike, a medium walk around the bay, or a Zodiac tour. The long hikers set off first, aiming to climb the hill above the bay, known as Edda Hill. Adam and Will expertly guided them to the summit.

The first part of the hike was challenging, as we navigated through tall tussac grass. Along the way, we spotted fur seals napping, none too pleased with the wake-up call. But we confidently made our way through the dense South Georgia jungle. Once we reached the top, the visibility was perfect, and the views of South Georgia’s stunning coastline were simply breathtaking.

The medium hikers followed shortly after, with the goal of reaching the plateau above the sea. This area is home to many birds, and we were able to observe gentoo penguin colonies with chicks that were already quite large. South Georgia pintails wandered near the water pools, and our birding group was especially excited to spot the South Georgia pipit, the only songbird on the island, performing its display flight above the tussac grass. What a morning!

Meanwhile, some of us enjoyed a perfect Zodiac ride across the bay with Chloe and Katlyn.

But the day wasn’t over yet. The Hotel Team had prepared a BBQ for us on the outdoor decks. With this incredible scenery, we couldn’t have asked for a better setting. The food was delicious, the mood was lively, and as the tables were cleared, the dance floor opened with DJ Prince. We danced under the setting sun, which dipped behind the mountains, painting the sky with pink hues and casting a soft glow on the blue icebergs.

This morning as Plancius approached Gold Harbor, we were met with a beach full of king penguins. The expedition team had quite a challenge finding a safe path through all the wildlife and decided to split our landing into two groups to give the wildlife their space. The first group came ashore, and the gray skies began to clear to blue while we were enjoying the beach and glacial stream full of molting penguins and elephant seals. A few gentoo penguins were seen on the beach and weaving their way through the king penguins on their way to their colony in the tussac grass near the glacier.

Halfway through the landing the first group of zodiac cruisers came to shore and the first landing group went out for a cruise. The zodiac cruises observed adorable elephant seals, recently weaned, learning how to swim and investigate the zodiacs. These pups were left on shore by their moms about 4-6 weeks ago and are now exploring the water for the first time. The entirety of the king penguin colony could also be appreciated from the zodiac as they cruised down the beach. Some zodiacs also had a look at the glacial lagoon and the waterfalls running out from under the signature hanging glacier at the site.

During lunch the ship repositioned south to our final operational site of the South Georgia portion of our trip: Cooper Bay. As we got close, more and more icebergs appeared on the horizon. When we made our final turn to approach our anchorage, we passed a group of 10-15 humpback whales feeding with groups of penguins swimming around.

It was a nice sunny afternoon for our zodiac cruise and the wind was quite calm in Cooper Bay. We saw four species of penguins! A small beach on the south end of the bay had gentoo, chinstrap, king, and macaroni penguins resting on it. We saw many of them swimming in the water as well. It was a good challenge for the photographers to try and capture the penguins as they were porpoising out of the water. On the northern end of the bay was a colony of a penguin species on quite a few wish lists – the macaroni penguin. The colony is in tussac grass - a steep climb up a cliff from the beach. The zodiacs could pull into small channels and view the penguins resting on the rocks before entering the sea or before making their steep climb up to their nests.

As the zodiac cruises were wrapping up the clouds began to cover the sky again. Lenticular clouds formed over the mountain peaks. Plancius heaved anchor and sailed around Cooper Island and turned Southwest. She weaved between massive icebergs as the wind picked up. Seabirds soared around the ship and near the edges of the icebergs we passed. A few more humpback whales were scattered around the area, but soon our visibility dropped to less than 200 meters as a rain squall passed by.

As the evening drew to a close, we said goodbye to South Georgia and steamed onward to the Scotia Sea.

Our day began with Adam’s friendly wake-up call as we sailed farther south. We expected to spend the next 2-4 days at sea before arriving in Antarctica, due to the wind and swell conditions. Our luck with good weather hadn’t exactly run out, but we were facing more ‘normal’ Southern Ocean conditions now. For some of us, it meant retreating to our cabins and catching up on some rest (and to relieve our sea sickness). For others, it meant being out on the bridge wings spotting albatross and whales, chilling in the main lounge playing card games, chatting over cups of tea, knitting with our new Falklands yarn, or listening to lectures by the expedition team.

First up on the lecture program was Steffi who told us all about the importance of krill in the Antarctic ecosystem. We learnt that just about every animal in the Antarctic food chain, ranging from the huge baleen whales, to seals, fish, penguins and many other seabirds, are all directly or indirectly dependent on the availability of krill. We also learnt that there were currently a few commercial krill fishing vessels in the area, harvesting krill for human consumption and supplements. This concerned many of us and urged us to consider future actions to help protect this important keystone species.

Next up we watched the first episode of a three- part documentary called ‘Shackleton Death or Glory’ which followed a team from UK that reenacted the famous Shackleton Rescue of 1916. It was incredible to see just how challenging the conditions and journey still are today.

After a delicious lunch, the Plancius veered towards a famous object on the move- the world’s largest iceberg, A23A. This iceberg measures approximately 4,000 square kilometers and is twice the size of Greater London!! It calved off from Antarctica's Filchner-Ronne Ice Shelf in 1986, became lodged on the seafloor of the Weddell Sea for over 30 years, before beginning its slow journey north in 2020. But just a few months ago, it got sidetracked and became trapped in a spinning ocean vortex near the South Orkney Islands. Now, A23a is on the move again and we were so lucky to get a close up view of her!

We then had a very fitting lecture by Keechy, all about ice. We learnt that icebergs originate from glaciers and ice shelves, and that when they break apart, they can become classified into a variety of names such as bergy bits and growlers based on their size. This type of ice is different to sea ice, which forms in the ocean itself. We learnt that brash ice is a mix between the two, an accumulation of floating ice made up of fragments no more than 2 m across, and is most often wreckage of both glacial and sea ice. We never knew how complex ice could be!

Tonight instead of our usual daily briefing and recap, was the South Georgia Auction. This would include items supplied by the South Georgia Heritage Trust ranging from penguin memorabilia to the famous Endurance whisky, plus a few special items provided by the Oceanwide team. Will from the expedition team was our charismatic auctioneer, sharing incredible details and often elaborative backstories to help up the bids. The main lounge was buzzing with laughter, and Will managed to auction off every item with glee. All proceeds go towards maintaining and conserving South Georgia heritage buildings, eradication programs and wildlife conservation.

After yet another scrumptious dinner, we enjoyed the evenings buzz from yet another magical day in the Southern Ocean.

It was also a special day for our fantastic group from Bangladesh who celebrated Victory day!

Good morning, good morning, came the cheery tones of Adam waking us up. We had a cruisy morning ahead of us, with some enjoying the sleep in and rest, while others already out on deck enjoying the birdlife and odd whale blow in the distance.

After breakfast, the second episode of the ‘Shackleton Death or Glory’ documentary was shown in the main lounge. It was so incredible to see these modern men reenact this epic journey, and how they even wore the traditional clothing Shackleton and his men did all those years before.

By mid-morning, it was time to do our mandatory biosecurity checks again. As we had come from South Georgia where there is a lot of vegetation and penguin and seal poop, it was important to check that our clothing had not collected any seeds, and our boots were nice and clean. We managed to complete this process much quicker than our last checks as we had become quite the experts in making sure our Velcro’s were clean and our boots scrubbed well!

After a delicious lunch, we joined Katlyn in the main lounge for a talk about humpback whales. We learnt that these whales travel remarkable distances and have one of the longest migrations in the animal kingdom. Their migrations are broken into two seasons, feeding and mating, but both hemisphere populations rarely cross the equator. Northern hemisphere humpback whales spend their winter breeding in warmer southern waters near places like Hawaii and Mexico, and then travel farther north to places like Norway and Alaska to feed. Southern hemisphere humpback whales however, spend their winter breeding in warmer northern waters near places like Tonga and Brazil and then travel south to the circumpolar waters of Antarctica to feed.

We then were joined by Will who gave us an interesting talk about Tom Crean, a famous Irish seaman and Antarctic explorer. Crean was a member of three major Antarctic expeditions during the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration, including Robert Falcon Scott’s 1901–1904 Discovery Expedition, Scott's 1911–1913 Terra Nova Expedition, and Sir Ernest Shackleton's Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. He was one of the six men chosen by Shackleton to sail in the small 22.5-foot wooden boat, the James Caird, 800 nautical miles (1,500 km) from Elephant Island to South Georgia Island to seek aid for the stranded party.

After our usual daily recap and briefing, off to dinner it was for yet another scrumptious meal. We had another magical day full of sea gazing, sharing stories and no doubt looking at the thousands of photos we have been taking!

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow! We woke up with white decks and snow falling all around us! Whilst admiring the snow, we listened to Chloe’s lecture about sea-ice ecosystems after breakfast. We learned all about how microscopically small phytoplankton (algae) that live in the ice, are incredibly important for any life in Antarctica. They are grazed on by zooplankton (microscopic organisms) and krill that are in turn being eaten by our beloved seals, penguin and whales.

The snow tempted many of us to go out on the decks and get some fresh air after the lecture. Some interesting snow sculptures were built, in the shape of an Elephant seal, a Humpback whale, a penguin, a Snowy albatross and a big snowman! Playing in the snow came to an end and we got to warm up with the third part of Shackleton: Death or Glory. This episode we watched the team brave the mountains and glaciers of South Georgia and cross the island.

As we were inching closer to Antarctica, Svata explained that it is a high-risk environment for hyperthermia. Therefore, she gave a lecture on how to prevent it, how to recognize it, and how to help someone suffering from it. She told us to ‘layer up’ like Peter Freuchen, a legendary Danish Arctic adventurer. We continued the theme of adventurers with a lecture by Will on the life of Amundsen, the famous Norwegian explorer first to set foot on the South Pole. The adventurer had brilliant quotes, such as ‘Victory awaits him who has everything in order – luck, people call it’, or the very romantic ‘adventure is just bad planning’.

Then the moment had arrived, we were nearing Elephant Island! We saw the island in true Antarctic conditions, covered in fog and with big waves breaking against the rocks. It gave us a good idea of how difficult it must have been like for Shackleton’s team to spend 4.5 months on the island, with no certainty anybody would come to rescue them! That is true endurance!

After a brilliant day at sea we headed to bed, excited to see the Antarctic peninsula the next day! Good night!

Good morning everyone! Yesterday we couldn’t leave the ship to zodiac cruise Elephant Island due to the big swells, but today our chances of getting of the ship were significantly better. With a little bit of luck, we would be able to reach a site called Mikkelsen Harbour and do a landing after dinner. However, when while sailing along the stunningly beautiful coastline of the Antarctic peninsula, were received a call from another expedition ship informing us there was still a lot of ice in the area which would slow down our navigation. No need to be disappointed though, when on expedition with Oceanwide you can rely on the expedition leader for having a plan B on the table and if needed a plan C and so on.

Instead of continuing our heading, it was decided that we would do a zodiac cruise right here, right now. Excellent! We were close to Lindblad Cove and the scenery was simply breathtaking. With the wind dropping we found ourselves surrounded by icebergs, penguins on icebergs and brash ice. Our guides explained to us the differences between the types of ice and where brash ice originates from. We also heard the ice making a crackling sound which is compressed air escaping the ice while it’s melting.

We cruised each in our own direction and calls on the radio could be heard about penguins on ice. Penguins on ice is probably the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Antarctica so we quickly made our way to take photos of these cute little creatures on several ice flows and icebergs. Today we were lucky once more as we found three different species of penguins, the Gentoo, the Chinstrap and the Adelie penguin. We would not visit an Adelie colony during our remaining days so seeing them on the ice was simply lovely.

After about 2 ½ hours we wanted to head back to the ship, but the ice had closed in quite a bit so getting out with the zodiacs proved to be challenging. However, the guides showed us how it’s done and while we enjoyed driving through this unfamiliar terrain, we enjoyed every minute of the navigation. Our guide assured us that zodiacs are sturdier when it comes to ice compared to the Titanic and they were right, soon we were out safe and in more open waters.

On the way back to Plancius a whale was spotted, but unfortunately it was travelling and getting a closer look proved to be challenging. In the end it didn’t matter, after 4 days on the ship it was super nice to spend time out on the zodiacs and we enjoyed every minute.

After recap and dinner, we retired to our cabins as tomorrow would be a full expedition day with a continental landing and a zodiac cruise planned.

Sleep well!

Who would have known when waking uo this morning that today would become one of the most extraordinary days of our lives. The stars aligning to offer one of the worlds grandest experiences.

Waking up yet another time to the voice of Adam, gently bringing us back to our living dream aboard Plancius, we woke to a pristine Antarctic day. The sky is clowdless, the sun is shining, high in the sky, promising some red faces!

Our first stop for the day is Portal point, a continental landing! After a bumpy and humid zodiac ride whe set foot for the first time on the seventh continent. To greet us as always is Adam and the usual suspects, the penguins. Portal point was a small and intimate area that offered a gentle walk up a slope on a tidy peninsula that overlooked the beautiful bay and its hundreds of giant icebergs drifting along pushed by the gentle breeze.

Among the icebergs whales were feeding and in the bay where the fast ice was tightly knitted to itself several weddell seals were hauled out taking in the sun reminding us to enjoy the simple pleasures of life and being grateful for the present moment.

Later, after a hearty lunch and a short cruise we arrived at Foyn Harbour. Foyn Harbour in a spectacle, a vast bay with coutless glaciers sliding in its transparent blue waters. Our plan for the afternoon was an extended zodiac cruise where we will visit the “Governor”, a ship wrecked in a cove after a drunken sailor knocked down a petrol lamp while dancing on a table! Close by were a large group of Antarctic terns and their little ones, all nestled on a rock formation under a chilian navigational mark, remind is us of the geopolitical rivalry in the region.

As we made our way further in the Bay we notices a large amount of whales devided in several little groups. They seemed to be all feeding on the rich supplies of krill the Antarctic waters offer. As we approached we sensed that this was going to be a special moment for all of us as even the guides started getting verry excited and told us how unusual this was.

As we made our way forward the whales did not disappoint and started surrouding our boats offering and fantastic display of their hunting skills. Using their bubble and working in teams to catch as much krill as possible. This interaction with these curious whales is something that shouldn’t be taken for granted, the gentle giants gifted us with this special moment and we take with us unforgettable memories.

In the evening we made our way into a scenic corner of Antarctica where we were invited on the top deck after dinner to drink a warm apple juice with Whiskey altogether. And when we thought this day couldn’t get any better, as the sun started settling at its lowest point during the southern summer we came upon the rarest living creature o Antarctica, a solitary young Emporor penguin. This encounter was the cherry on the cake for what has been for us and for the whole crew the most exceptional day an expedition can offer.

The day began much earlier than expected. At 1:35 AM, Adam called, "Orcas, we have Orcas!" Some of us seized the opportunity, while the majority stayed in bed or slept through the call. The Orcas were moving in front of the ship—there were some great sightings, though only one or two were confirmed by most.

Later, after a good night's sleep, the usual wake-up call came, followed by Alex’s breakfast announcement. We were at Cierva Cove, a bay on the Antarctic continent, with plans for a Zodiac cruise. The scenery was breathtaking, with the bay filled with ice, and many whales had already been spotted from the ship. Just 15 minutes into the cruise, we heard Koen’s voice: "We have Orcas!" So we tried to follow them. Although we managed to get some good sightings, the Orcas were moving fast into the bay, and the icy waters made it difficult to keep up. With so many boats around, some of us decided to simply enjoy the views we had and take in the rest of the morning’s incredible wildlife.

The bay was teeming with life—Penguins (both Gentoo and Chinstrap) were everywhere, and whales were "logging" almost everywhere in the bay, some feeding slowly. Many of us also got the chance to see a leopard seal on the ice. What an extraordinary creature—so strong and graceful, it almost seemed from another world.

Karma treated us well. Many of the boats that hadn't seen the Orcas up close were rewarded with a leopard seal hunting near the Argentinian station. We didn’t witness a successful hunt, but it was still fascinating to watch.

The "Primavera" Argentinian Station overlooks the bay. It operated year-round from 1977 to 1982, but since then, it has only been open in summer, focusing on research related to birds inthe surrounding protected areas, limnology, and the development of mosses and lichens over time.

It was a fantastic morning. As usual, we returned to the ship later than planned, but there was just so much to see outside.

After lunch, we set sail for Two Hummock Island, where we landed at Palaver Point. Following another great meal and a short rest, the Expedition team took us ashore to explore a rocky hill on the island. The slope of the hill is home to Chinstrap penguins, as well as many skuas preying on eggs and chicks. We had excellent sightings of these predator birds, and we admired the mosses growing between the leftover snow. The views over the bay and surrounding glaciers were absolutely stunning. Antarctica feels so vast, and we are so small. During the landing, we had the chance to hike up some elevation and take in the scenery, even from a bird’s-eye view.

Another remarkable day in Antarctica. What a journey—truly the trip of a lifetime, and it’s not over yet. Adam shared the plans for tomorrow, and we’re looking forward to another full day on the South Shetland Islands. We can’t wait to explore more!

This morning wakeup call came earlier than our usual routine. But it was well worth the early call to watch Plancius navigate through Neptune’s Bellows – a narrow passage in Deception Island. The gap between the cliffs and shoreline seems quite wide on first impression, but half the opening is too shallow for the ship to use safely. Cape petrels were gliding around, and chinstrap penguins were swimming around the ship as we entered Port Foster and had views of Whaler’s Bay as we sailed to the back of the caldera.

The expedition team set up a nice route over part of the volcanic craters at Telefon Bay for our morning landing. Walking on the volcanic gravel and taking in the views gives you a feeling of walking on another planet. The snow highlighted the features of the caldera and added to the beauty and novelty of the landscape. There isn’t much wildlife on the inside of Deception Island, but there was a Weddell seal resting on the beach throughout the landing. After a few hours ashore it was time for a morning Antarctic swim! The expedition team had brought towels to the beach for those that wanted to take part in the Polar Plunge. Some plungers had penguin accessories for their swim which added to the fun!

In the late morning, we again successfully navigated out through Neptune’s Bellows and headed to open water to cruise to Livingston Island for our afternoon landing. Humpback whales and chinstrap penguins were swimming around the ship throughout our navigation. After lunch the ship was positioned near Elephant Point at Livingston Island.

We came ashore for our final landing at Elephant Point. Most of the snow has melted at this point of the season and this was the most greenery we have seen on shore since South Georgia. Piles of molting elephant seals were all over the island. The air would fill with their vocalizations as they argued over sleeping arrangements in their wallows. Gentoo penguins were nesting in several places on the island, and they had freshly hatched chicks. Those that were patient could catch a glimpse at the little ones when their parents would stand up briefly. There were nesting seabirds on the rocky outcrops near the landing site including kelp gulls and Southern giant petrels.

It was a bit emotional to leave the beach one last time. This has been an incredible voyage and our last day in the South Shetland Islands was no exception. We heaved the anchor one last time and began steaming for the Drake Passage and beginning of our journey home.

Our morning wakeup call perhaps didn’t wake some of us. Today was a day to sleep in if we’d like, through the Drake Passage we sailed, with these next two days at sea ahead of us. It was a time to catch up on rest, enjoy some fresh air out on deck, or sort through the thousands of photos we’d taken over the last few weeks. New friendships were blossoming, contacts exchanged, and memories made. We were all really feeling the buzz of just how incredible this trip had been so far. But it wasn’t even over! Today would show us that even on days at sea, you never know what to expect…

We started our morning off with a talk about climate change aptly named ‘Ice Ice Maybe’ by Keechy. We learnt all about melting glaciers, temperature rises and what effect these will have not only on the Southern Ocean and Antarctica, but for the rest of the planet in the future. Antarctica is like Earth’s built in air conditioner; the gigantic white ice sheet that covers the continent deflects a huge amount of the sun’s rays back into the atmosphere (called the albedo effect). This plays a very important role in regulating our global climate.

Before Katyln’s mid-morning lecture on whales, we got rudely interrupted by none other than a huge pod of orcas!! We (carefully) raced outside to see at least 20 orcas cruising through the swell, with at least three large males and a few mum and calf pairs. We even spotted one orca with a chunk of its dorsal fin missing! Any photos of this would for sure be going straight into Happy Whale- a citizen science program that matches whale fins, flukes and body marks from all around the world. These orcas were most likely Type A, an ecotype that is typically found in offshore open waters.

We seriously couldn’t believe our luck with orca encounters this trip!! Katyln’s lecture then proceeded after the orcas cruised away from the Plancius, and she gave us a little recap on their behaviour, different ecotypes found in Antarctica (Type A, B1, B2, C and D) and where they are likely to be found. We then learnt all about whales being ecosystem engineers, specifically about just how important their poop is for phytoplankton production!

After lunch, Steffi gave us a very interesting talk about her time competing in what is known as the ‘oldest race in aviation’, the Gordon Bennett Gasballoon Race. Steffi and her teammate flew across Europe, and even over open ocean for days in a gas balloon, using things like bags of sand to control the balloon’s altitude. We learnt so much about this niche sport, and just how passionate Steffi is about the comradery and team spirit that comes with it.

To finish off the lecture program for the day, Chloe gave us an entertaining talk about her time on Antarctic research stations. Chloe first visited Antarctica as a university student down on New Zealand’s research station, Scott Base in the Ross sea. She also got to visit USA’s McMurdo Station which is the largest Antarctic research station on the continent, housing over 1,200 people in the summer season. A few years later, she went down on another expedition to promote Antarctic education and outreach for Hobart’s youth, where she visited numerous research stations including Chile, Russia and Korea down on Kinge George Island. It was interesting to hear her stories and how these experiences provided the opportunity for her to become an expedition guide today.

After dinner, some of us joined Will in the library for a little jam session on the guitar. Slowly by slowly, the audience started singing along, and it was a cozy little evening of smiles, laughter and some very dulcet tones! For those who may have slept in this morning, made up for it by the main lounge not clearing until well past midnight!

“Naaaaaaaaaaaaaaants ingonyamaaaaaaaaaaaa bagiiiiiiiiiiiiithi baba…”

The wake up call had a disney ring to it as the Lion King song woke us from our slumbers bringing us bak to warm family movie nights.

Doug, the leader of our beloved birders won the bidding contest during the auction a few days ago to make his own wake up call. After the music came a delightful poem written by Doug himself and it went something like this…

“'Twas 3 days after solstice, when all 'round the mother boat,
Not a fur seal was stirring, to sound like a goat;
The sick bags were hung round the cabins with flair, just in case the Drake crossing wasn't too fair;
The travelers were nestled all snug in their bunks,
While images danced in their minds of goofy Elephant seal trunks,
The dreams stretched back through a three week recap,
And images arose of lovely memories still intact,

Of the time on the deck there arose such a clatter,
We sprang from the lounge to see what was the matter.
Away to the windows we flew like a flash,
Tore open the blinds to see the waves crash,

The sun reflected off the deck’s new-fallen snow,
Gave the sparkle of life to the bow deck below,
When, what to our wondering eyes should appear,
But some skillfully made snow animals, but not one reindeer,

Built by our Zodiac drivers, of form able and slick, who could maneuver with Humpback and Orca so quick;
As leaders devoted to our expedition game,
the birds, seals, and whales called them by name;

Now Svatava, now Chloe, now Koen, and William!
ON Keechy, ON Katlyn, on Steffi and Adam!
On sea days with fog where we could see no birds fly,
They lectured and lifted our minds to the sky,

Alex forgot to scan his card in,
While Raquel had the birders tight with their gin,
Khabir and the staff kept the food and jokes flowing,
Now who knows where our waistlines are going

We hit the open ocean, and South Georgia loomed,
Mountainous island wonderland under full moon,
King Penguin slap fights stretching to the horizons,
While offshore flew all those dynamic Prions,

Our repose at Grytviken saw the weather turn,
Wind picked up and the bay began to churn,
Our skillful expedition staff quite well could react,
So back to the ship in our trusty zodiacs,

Plan A was to go to the South Orkney Isles,
But ice locked it up, so Plan B was on trial,
Then news, A23a could soon be before us,
Plan B was scrapped, we had our Plan-C us

Then hey! Antarctica Ho!
Now on the continent we walked to and fro,
Bobi dressed in his penguin fur head to toe,
Served drinks on the deck with picturesque ice floes,
The idyllic evening with snowy mountain reflections,
Finishing at the sea ice with a lazy Emperor Penguin,

Farewell land of ice, but first a deception,
A caldera of water gave us cold reception,
With all our good fortune, and karma at play,
The captain did say, don’t worry we will pay,
So the waves began mounding,
It was time to take a Drake Passage pounding

As we near the end of our trip for the ages,
And our rhymes runneth over and so do our pages,
We still travel, one more day of birds dynamically soaring,
Happy landings and flights, and to all…a Good Morning! Good Morning, Good Morning!

After a wonderful awakening the day could only be good. The sea tried it’s best to ruin our good mood by throwing 50knots wind gusts and five meter waves. Some of us nested in our cabins wating for a respite scheduled to arrive later that day.

This morning was dedicated to get to know what our expedition team does when off the ship. Koen started by telling us about his job as a whale guide in both Iceland and Tonga. He showed us some amazing footage of his underwater encounters with humback whales and Orcas.

Later Adam continued and introduced us to how life is on South Georgia and on an Antarctic research station. Great to get first hand insight on life in these remote areas and how one ends up doing such a thing!

A documentary was showed later that day about the ancient mariners braving the treacherous waters of Cape Horn.

The wind gods decided we had suffered enough and gave us a rest in the afternoon for the Q and A organised in the lounge where an Officer, the Chef and an Engineer answeres all our question about how the ship is run.

In the evening we met with the Captain who thanked us for a wonderful trip and wished us all the best on future travels. Glasses were raied and a loud “Cheers” resonated in the lounge.

Our last evening was spent sharing stories of our voyage and exchanging phone numbers, a trip where strangers from allover the world became family for a few weeks.

We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina and it was time to say our goodbyes and a last chance to exchange contact details. We had our final breakfast aboard Plancius then gathered the last of our things and headed for the gangway. We said goodbye to the whole team onboard and the new friends we had made. Some of us were off to explore some of the town’s treasures while others were flying straight home, looking back as we left to take a final look at the Plancius, remembering good times and perhaps planning for more in the future.