OTL26-25, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp - free camping, kayaking, snowshoe/hiking, photo workshop, mountaineering

The day had finally come! It was time to leave Ushuaia and board the good ship Ortelius for our epic expedition. The crew and expedition team had loaded our luggage onboard and delivered it to our cabins earlier in the day. All that remained was for us to take a few photos of Ortelius, our home for the next ten days, before heading up the gangway.

We were warmly welcomed by the crew and expedition team who assisted us in finding our cabins. We had some time to explore the ship, get our bearings and grab a coffee in the bar, then it was time to gather in the lecture room for the mandatory ship safety briefing where we met Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, and heard from the Safety Officer, who gave a practical demonstration on how to put on our emergency life jackets.

We underwent the abandon ship drill, putting-on our lifejackets and heading outside to be shown to the lifeboats, where we realised that we had already cast-off from the pier and our journey was underway! Following the drill, we assembled in the bar where Captain Per welcomed us with champagne and canapés, Hotel Manager Volodymyr talked about the shipboard services, and Sara gave an overview of the voyage and introduced the expedition team.

It was soon time for our first evening meal, with a delicious buffet selection prepared by Head Chef Ivan and his galley team, served by the friendly dining room staff. After dinner we were called back to the bar so that two more mandatory briefings could be delivered in the sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel. Sara first briefed us on the Antarctic Visitor Guidelines, as laid down by IAATO – the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators – of which Oceanwide is a founding member, and this was then followed by the Zodiac safety briefing.

With the formalities out of the way, many of us went onto the outside decks to enjoy what remained of the Beagle channel, marvelling at the spectacular mountains on either side in the evening light, scanning the waters for seabirds such as the Black-Browed Albatross, Magellan penguins, whales and dolphins.

First thought as we stirred in the morning was “how rough is the sea”? We lay dozily in bed trying to assess the movement. How bad was it?

As we exited the Beagle Channel the previous evening, our imaginations had run riot as we visualised mountainous seas when crossing the notorious Drake Passage.

It was not meant to be! What a relief as we went to breakfast. A lumpy motion of Ortelius was certainly noticeable, but quite bearable for most, although a few unlucky pale faced souls were seen in the corridors apprehensively clutching little white bags.

The daily programme of activity briefing meetings commenced immediately after breakfast. We received reassurances from our kayak instructor Zet that the craft we were to paddle was extremely stable and it was therefore rare for people to capsize. He gave further advice not to let our hands dip in the frigid sea while paddling as they would become very cold. This was welcomed, although experiential learning since childhood had already taught us that frozen fingers were tear inducing!

Gonzalo, the camping guide, explained in detail everything there is to know about the high-quality sleeping bags and waterproof outers used for this activity, assuring those who were apprehensive that we would not freeze but survive an interesting night in the snowy Antarctic landscape. He explained that we would even have ‘toilet facilities’ at the site. What a ‘relief’ to learn!

Next up was Owen and Chris, the leaders of the mountaineering group. They explained in details the nature of the roped and un-roped activities at the landing sites. We were asked to bring along any boots we had brought on the voyage to check their suitability for crampons and to fill in a form indicating our level of fitness.

The leaders of each activity explained the eventual selection of groups. They would try to facilitate friendship groupings where possible. We were full of anticipation of a great time.

At various times whales and dolphins were seen as we progressed south, each announcement prompting a rush to the rails and a frantic clicking of cameras.

At recap, our artist Bill introduced a presentation of what was ahead: Looking, Seeing, Thinking, Doing, Listening, Hearing, Understanding. He was explaining that this was the Oceanwide Expeditions experience, stimulating education and endless fun.

After the usual excellent dinner, the lounge was full of passengers in the evening with most groups playing cards and savouring the restful atmosphere.

The day started with the process of signing up for the day’s events. There was a buzz of energy as everyone eagerly lined up to secure spots in their favourite activities.

Our morning officially began with a fascinating presentation about whales. The onboard naturalist Hazel delivered an engaging talk that delved into the lives of these magnificent marine mammals. One of the highlights was learning about fin whales, the second-largest animals on Earth. Their immense size and speed were awe-inspiring, and the presentation set the tone for an exciting day ahead.

Not long after the presentation, we had our first wildlife encounter. From the ship’s deck, we spotted several fin whales gliding gracefully through the water. The sight of their massive bodies surfacing and creating misty blows in the crisp air was breathtaking. Cameras clicked furiously as everyone tried to capture this remarkable moment.

Lunch followed soon after, offering a brief but welcome break. The dining room was filled with chatter about the whales and anticipation for the rest of the day. After lunch, we attended a session on biosecurity. This important briefing ensured that we understood the measures needed to protect the pristine environment we were exploring. The crew emphasized the importance of cleaning our gear and following strict protocols to prevent introducing any non-native species to these fragile ecosystems.

The afternoon brought another educational opportunity: a lecture about penguins. Carina shared fascinating insights into the lives of these iconic Antarctic birds. We learned about their breeding habits, adaptations to extreme cold, and the different species found in the region. The lecture was both informative and entertaining, keeping everyone thoroughly engaged. However, halfway through, something extraordinary happened. The lecture was interrupted by the announcement that orcas had been spotted near the ship. Excitement rippled through the room as everyone rushed to the deck to catch a glimpse of these apex predators. Watching the orcas swim and breach was mesmerizing and a highlight of the day.

As if that wasn’t enough, another interruption soon followed. The captain announced that we were passing a massive tabular iceberg. This enormous slab of ice was a true natural wonder. Its sheer size and perfectly flat top made it look like a frozen skyscraper floating on the sea. It was a reminder of the power and majesty of the Antarctic landscape.

The evening began with the daily recap, a cherished tradition where the expedition team reviewed the day’s events. We shared stories, reflected on the highlights, and got a preview of what was planned for the next day. It was a great way to relive the day’s adventures and bond with fellow travellers.

Dinner that night was a feast, with delicious dishes that satisfied everyone after such an eventful day. The atmosphere in the dining room was lively, filled with laughter and animated conversations about the day’s sights and experiences.

After dinner, the adventure continued with a zodiac cruise around Melchior Island. This experience was nothing short of magical. As we glided through the calm waters, we encountered humpback whales swimming nearby. They seemed curious about our presence, occasionally surfacing near our zodiacs and treating us to unforgettable views. The serene beauty of the island, combined with the thrilling presence of the whales, made this an experience to treasure forever.

The day concluded with a New Year’s celebration in the ship’s bar. The festivities were full of energy and joy. Glasses of prosecco were raised as everyone toasted to the new year. A spirited dance competition added to the fun, with participants showing off their best moves. The countdown to midnight brought everyone together, and as the clock struck twelve, cheers filled the room. It was the perfect way to end an extraordinary day, surrounded by new friends and unforgettable memories.

What a remarkable way to start New Year’s Day—waking up in the freezing yet breathtaking continent of Antarctica after a lively New Year’s Eve celebration! With the smooth crossing of the Drake Passage behind us, the true adventures were set to begin.

We began with a zodiac cruise, which gave us a close-up look at the wildlife and scenery. We spotted nesting Antarctic shags, many with tiny chicks. These little ones, born blind and featherless, stayed tucked under their parents for warmth—a touching sight of life in such a harsh place. Deeper into the bay, we entered a quieter world. With the engine shut off, the only sounds were the soft cracking of the ice, the distant rumble of glaciers breaking apart, and the splashes of penguins jumping playfully near our boats. The weather was perfect, with calm waters sheltered by the fjords. Some of us even saw a rolling iceberg. Although it was a small one, the way it flipped with such power reminded us how unpredictable and strong this environment can be.

We explored Brown Station from the water and heard about its fascinating history. Many years ago, a doctor, desperate to avoid another season here, set the station on fire so he could leave. Today, it’s used by researchers during the summer, surrounded by colonies of Gentoo penguins waddling around. Our zodiac cruise ended with a landing on the continent itself—our first steps in Antarctica! We took photos with the continental flag and watched Weddell seals resting peacefully on the ice. It felt amazing to finally stand on this remote and incredible land.

After a morning filled with wonder, we returned to the ship for a hearty and warming lunch. However, the weather had begun to shift, and behind the scenes, our Expedition Leader Sara was busy at work. The afternoon plans required quick adjustments as the worsening conditions threatened our original itinerary. But in true Antarctic spirit, a new plan emerged—what better way to embrace the icy wilderness than with a polar plunge to welcome 2025?

And so, our next destination was Danco Island, a place full of Gentoo penguins and amazing views. A short hike from the landing spot gave us great sights of the bay, while others climbed higher for even more stunning views. Then it was time for the polar plunge! Passengers, staff, and crew, all joined in, cheering each other on as we took turns jumping into the freezing water. The shock of the cold was unforgettable, but it was also refreshing and fun—a perfect way to welcome 2025.

In the evening, we gathered for a recap of the day. Plans for tomorrow were shared, and we heard stories about Brown Station and the myth of Icarus. Dinner was lively, and after such an eventful day, many were ready for bed. It was the perfect start to the New Year—full of new experiences, unforgettable memories, and the kind of excitement that only Antarctica can offer. And this was just the beginning.

This morning, we explored Flandres Bay. As we cruised around in the zodiacs, blasted by the cold wind and dampened by snowfall we thought of that brave expedition crew who had explored the area before it was known, literally putting it on the map; it is said back then the men were made of steel whilst the boats of wood. Conditions were a little challenging, especially for those kayaking. The glacier-lined bay was nonetheless very beautiful, and humpback whales were seen raising their tail flukes as they dived to feed which took our minds off the weather. Additionally, rafts of penguins confidently approached our vessels. They delighted everyone who watched them as they disappeared beneath the surface and zipped around underwater beneath the zodiacs. Other bird highlights included diminutive Wilson’s Storm Petrels, Cape Petrel, Southern Fulmar and amazing views of pure white Snow Petrel, the ‘dove of the Antarctic’. Conditions worsened as we were cruising, and we all headed back to the ship. Having now spent a few days with Ortelius as our home, we were interested to receive a lecture from Expedition Guide Bill telling us more about the ship and what goes on behind the scenes.

After a delicious lunch of freshly made burgers, it was time for our afternoon landing at Jougla Point. Once ashore, we roamed around the Gentoo penguin colony, following the path laid out by the expedition team. Everyone was delighted to see that some of the Gentoo penguins had tiny chicks! A few of us even observed a parent feeding its chick a regurgitated meal of krill. We could see Port Lockroy, aka the Penguin Post Office, the most southerly post office in the world on the neighbouring island. We also enjoyed a short zodiac cruise in the surrounding bay watching seals resting on the rocks. You might think the day was then over, but no, not yet! We were treated to an amazing after dinner experience as the ship transited through the Lemaire Channel, a narrow passage flanked by towering snow-covered mountains. The scenery alone was enough to leave us in awe, but our enjoyment was further enhanced by the many humpback whales, particularly a close swim-by of a mother and calf. What a wonderful spectacle to end the day! As we finished the transit through the channel, we could see Hovgaard Island and nearby Port Charcot which was our areas of exploration for the next day!

We woke up to a foggy morning that soon cleared into sunshine at Port Charcot. Port Charcot is a favourite landing site for many of the guides for its diversity, glacial scenery, and its wildlife. It is a Historic site of Charcot’s 1st French Antarctic Expedition. It was first mapped in 1904 and the expedition used Port Charcot as its base for exploring the area. A cairn can still be seen at the top of the hill as well as remains of their stone-built hut. All three pygoscelid species of penguins’ nest on the island, gentoo, chinstrap and Adelie.

The day began with a proper leg stretch and two hiking options. One path was leading uphill towards a cairn. From the top the views were stunning towards Pléneau Island, overlooking 'the iceberg graveyard'. This iceberg graveyard was later explored on a spectacular Zodiac cruise. The second hiking path led to a colony of gentoo penguins, followed by a stop at remains of a stone built Magnetic hut that was used for astronomical observations and magnetic measurements. Among all the gentoo penguins, we were able to see the other two species as well, followed by hungry Skuas waiting to steal penguins’ eggs or chicks.

The sunny weather continued as we embarked on a Zodiac cruise through an iceberg graveyard, encountering very closely leopard seals and humpback whales that were just a fer meters from us. We experienced iceberg calving and falling in the water with the sound of thunder and creating waves that were rocking us on our boats. We cruised around breathtaking ice arches and ice sculptures that appeared blue in the sunshine.

As if it was not enough of an experience, the highlight of the day was a close encounter with orcas. We witnessed orcas hunting for a poor chinstrap penguin right next to our Ortelius ship!

The day ended with a delicious dinner, leaving everyone with sun-tanned faces and unforgettable memories.

Our day began with an early wake-up call, signalling the start of an unforgettable adventure. As we sailed toward Damoy Point, Antarctica’s icy beauty unfolded in front of us with snow-covered mountains and towering glaciers. We landed at Damoy Point, where we explored two historic huts: the British Antarctic Survey Hut and an Argentinian hut. These structures, once used by explorers, stood as quiet reminders of past expeditions.

Nearby, we found a lively Gentoo Penguin colony. It was magical watching the penguins waddle along the snow and dive into the freezing water. Their playful nature added a special touch to our stop here.

The mountaineers were the first to venture out, facing strong winds as they climbed the icy slopes. The conditions were tough, but the views from the top were endless white landscapes and jagged glaciers stretched as far as we could see. Unfortunately, the strong winds also meant that the kayaking trip had to be cancelled, which was disappointing, but we found other ways to stay engaged.

Back on the ship, we had an informative session with Koen, who explained the vital ecological role of sea ice. He shared how sea ice is essential to Antarctic life, supporting penguins, seals, and marine ecosystems. It was fascinating to learn how this unique environment works and how crucial it is to protect it.

After lunch, we sailed into the stunning Paradise Harbour. The mountaineers and kayakers set off again, this time using snowshoes to climb a nearby hill. The snowshoes made the climb easier, and the panoramic view from the top was breathtaking.

Meanwhile, we took a Zodiac cruise around the Chilean Gonzales Videla research station. It was amazing to see the work being done in such a remote location.

During the cruise, we had an incredible encounter with humpback whales. These giant creatures swam gracefully through the icy waters, and we were lucky enough to see a raft of penguins following them. The sight was magical with whales and penguins coexisting in this pristine environment.

As the day ended, we anchored at Leith Cove for an unforgettable night of camping. We spent the evening building snow shelters, enjoying the peaceful Antarctic landscape.

This day was full of adventure, wildlife, and unforgettable moments, making it a truly extraordinary experience.

It was an early start for the campers, who were picked up at 5:00 AM. The previous night had been magical. The weather was perfect, and the yellow skies glowing behind the mountains made everything feel serene. It was a peaceful night, filled with the natural sounds of glaciers cracking and Antarctic terns flying by. Onboard the ship, breakfast was served a bit later than usual, giving everyone a chance to sleep in after the mountaineers and kayakers had departed.

As the morning went on, the rest of us got ready for our next adventure: a trip to Orne Harbour, our second continental landing of this journey. We boarded the zodiacs and began our trip towards the shore. The hike to the top of Orne Harbour was challenging, with a steep zigzag path that required effort, but it was all worth it. At the summit, the view was breathtaking. We could see the entire bay stretching out, surrounded by snow-capped peaks. To make things even better, Chinstrap penguins were waiting for us at the top! Some of them had newly hatched chicks, tiny and fluffy, a sight that warmed everyone's hearts.

From our perch, we could see the kayakers gliding through the water below. The sound of glaciers calving echoed across the bay, adding to the grandeur of the scene. Eventually, it was time to make our way back down the steep hillside and return to the ship for a warm lunch.

After lunch, the ship set sail for Foyn Harbour, a spot known for its rich wildlife and fascinating history. Once there, we hopped into zodiacs for a cruise around the area. This bay is home to various animals and a shipwreck—the Governoren. This whaling ship caught fire just nine days after the sinking of the famous Endurance. The captain ran it aground to save all 84 crew members, and thankfully, everyone survived. Now, nature has claimed the wreck, with nesting Antarctic terns making it their home. The sight of the front of the ship out of the water and the rest beneath the surface wreck with blue glacier walls in the background was incredible.

As we explored the area, we spotted Weddell seals resting lazily on the ice and Antarctic shags nesting nearby. To our surprise, we even found an elephant seal deep in the bay. It was a fantastic spot for wildlife viewing.

After the zodiac cruise, we returned to the ship to warm up and enjoy a delicious dinner. The second group of campers eagerly waited to hear if they could camp that night. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side, and camping had to be cancelled. However, Sara, came up with an exciting alternative plan for the next day, keeping everyone's spirits high.

After last night’s planned camping had to be cancelled due to snowfall, we were excited and amused to be offered an alternative: morning camping at Portal Point! Since there were 24 hours of the daylight, and perfect conditions, Expedition Leader Sara decided to make the most of the opportunity to get the second camping group ashore for the experience. The campers enjoyed their Sunday morning basking in the Antarctica scenery and sunshine for a quiet couple of hours in cozy sleeping bags. Meanwhile, others were not so still! A mountaineering group led by Owain and Chris hiked from the Portal Point landing site until reaching a heavily crevassed area, after what they turned back after relishing the spectacular views they achieved from their higher viewpoint. The kayakers paddled under Zet’s leadership along the coast seeking the sheltered waters of the bay behind the camping site where they were rewarded with views of an elephant seal. Those not engaged in the aforementioned activities went on a zodiac cruise with the rest of the Expedition Team and were treated to views of Humpback Whales, Chinstrap Penguins, Antarctic Shags and beautiful icebergs in the vicinity of Two Hummock Island within Charlotte Bay.

Around midday we were all back on board for lunch as Ortelius got underway towards the proposed site for our afternoon activities: Palaver Point. As we continued on the route, Bill gave an insightful lecture about large scale fishing operations and their impact upon our oceans. On reaching Palaver Point we met with heavy swell and high winds. It was immediately apparent that kayaking would not be possible, but the expedition team dropped a zodiac to test if conditions would allow a landing. Unfortunately, the heavy swell was causing big waves not only at the gangway of the ship but also at the landing site, making it impossible to go ashore safely. With the plan to go ashore abandoned, Sara gave her impassioned lecture about threats to the oceans and inspired us all to do what we could to protect them.

The bridge team took Ortelius in search of a suitably sheltered spot for our evening BBQ which they skillfully achieved. After the recap, we put on our warm clothes and headed out to the helideck for our evening meal with music, singing, dancing, free drinks and spectacular Antarctic scenery as a backdrop.

We were advised to wake up early and get out on deck to experience Ortelius navigating an intimidating narrow entrance of the ‘Neptune’s Bellows channel on a Deception Island. The experience did not disappoint, as we crowded the bulwarks in the rain feeling rather small as the crumbling dark lava cliffs towered above us only a few meters from the hull. We emerged into a natural harbour created by the vast caldera. We sailed several kilometers across to the site of Telefon Bay where we landed to walk the steep depositions of lava gravel. The expedition guides had marked out the route, and the path led along the exposed ridge.

The wind was gusting strongly, and clouds hung over the high ground all adding to the menace of the monochromatic landscape. It was a dramatic change from the snow-covered mountains of the Antarctic peninsula. A sleeping young elephant seal provided a photo diversion as we left for Ortelius for lunch.

In the afternoon, Ortelius sailed back towards Neptune’s Bellows and dropped an anchor off the at the old whaling station and research base called Whalers Bay. The shoreline was littered with rusty architecture of the former station, crumbling buildings destroyed by a volcanic eruption and multi-rust coloured distorted storage tanks. You could imagine the base in its heyday but now the place expressed a sad decay. We meandered through the eroded buildings and buckled tanks whilst sharing the place with some curious Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins. Most of us then walked along the shoreline to climb a steep path to the Neptune’s Window. This gave us a great vantage point to view the bay and Port Foster although it was hard to stand at the top as wind was blowing so hard. Bill was the guardian of the area, marling out how far back from the crumbling edge we should stand.

Once we were all thorough soaked and cold, we returned to Ortelius. She upped an anchor and sailed out in a lumpy sea setting course for Ushuaia.

Now we would find out what the Drake had in store for us!

We woke up slightly apprehensive. Today is the first day of our two-day crossings of ‘The Drake’, one of the most hyped ‘so called notorious’ sea areas in the world. But as we checked the movement, it was not as expected. Nothing even remotely like it! A gentle slow rolling and only the reassuring powerful sound of our ever-reliable engines expected us. We could go safely to a leisurely breakfast! It felt like a holiday as we had just a relaxing programme of lectures. Bill was the first to lecture with another of his Looking - Seeing – Thinkings presentations called Paintings of the Sea, in which he explained the meaning of the sea by using examples from art through the ages giving considerable “food for thought”. ‘We are but nothing in relation to nature and the scheme of things’ was a continuing theme through the perspective of the art history.

Koen followed mid-morning with a thoroughly researched early days of Antarctic exploration. What drove these heroic sailors to venture into the unknown, to risk danger in this icy vastness? It was a stimulating presentation which encouraged us to read more about this enormous continent.

Our fantastic captain Per, a captain like no other, conducted a Q&A session to a crowded lounge in the afternoon. He answered a range of questions related to the operation of Ortelius and his previous nautical experiences in his long and varied career. His responses were in his usual frank and good-natured manner providing an amusing informative entertainment enjoyed by all.

Later in the afternoon, the deck crew were seen dressed in fire-fighting gear and breathing apparatus dragging high pressure water hoses through the corridors as they conducted one of their regular training exercises. It was interesting to have these reminders of the complexities of the operation of Ortelius and reassuring to see their professionalism.

At 4.00 pm, just after we had been enticed to the lounge by promises of a cake and coffee, Hana delivered her lecture “How to observe the ocean under 400m thick ice shelf in Antarctica”, describing research and logistics at one of the Norwegian research bases in Antarctica.

The staff was asked during the daily recap to list the places they would have liked to visit on the peninsula during the voyage and what was their highlight moment of the voyage. The responses were, as expected, very variable.

A surprisingly relaxing first day in the ‘Drake ended with a vibrant atmosphere in the bar, filled with a mix of familiar voices, and an occasional burst of laughter.

We awoke to overcast skies and three metre swells on our final day at sea, the conditions were uninspiring but the brilliant numbers of Southern Royal and Wandering Albatrosses gliding serenely around the ship certainly were not. They were giving amazing views as they cruised effortlessly on the wind behind the ship, often within a few metres – a wonderful start to the day. The coast of South America soon appeared on the horizon.

The days programme started soon after, with Joyce giving a presentation about the life on the deep seabed, followed by Hazels talk about krill, the cornerstone species in Antarctica. We continued north to the closest point to Cape Horn that Chilean authorities allow us to be.

We could see the small dwelling perched on the cliff which doubles as the military lookout and the famous sculpture on the cliff-edge with the poem below inscribed next to it, in memory of the many mariners who lost their lives trying to round this unforgiving stretch of coast.

I am the albatross that waits for you at the end of the World.

I am the forgotten souls of dead sailors

who passed Cape Horn from all the oceans of the Earth.

But they did not die in the furious waves.

Today they fly on my wings towards eternity,

in the last trough of the Antarctic winds.

The rest of the afternoon passed serenely with views towards the southernmost point of South America, Cape Horn. Later, Sara gave an inspiring presentation about Women in Antarctica. Then it was time for Captains Cocktails in the bar, the showing of the slideshow of the trip, put together by Matt, a fantastic final dinner and then time to reflect on a wonderful expedition.

We arrived in Ushuaia early morning, with many folks up and about to see us dock in beautiful conditions. It was a calm morning, with the surrounding mountains bathed in a few early morning sunrays that were coming through a thin layer of clouds.

The crew and Expedition Team handled all the luggage and placed it on the pier, while we enjoyed one last buffet breakfast. At 08:30 it was time to leave the ship, the voyage over, and time to go our separate ways. Fond farewells were exchanged on the dock, as our band of intrepid adventurers dispersed and began the long journey home. For some of us, it was just the beginning of the next chapter in our own personal travel story.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1788 nautical miles.

Southernmost position: 65°08.3’S / 064°04.3’W (Salpetriere Bay).

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Per Andersson, Expedition Leader Sara Jenner, Hotel Manager Volodymyr Cherednychenko and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you!

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team