OTL12-26, trip log, Around Spitsbergen incl. Nordaustlandet

Our expedition began in Longyearbyen, the gateway to Norway’s High Arctic region. Before boarding, many took the opportunity to wander through the small town, surrounded by dramatic mountains and the calm waters of Isfjorden. Despite its remote location and Arctic climate, Longyearbyen offered a warm and welcoming first impression.

In the afternoon, we boarded M/V Ortelius, where the expedition team and hotel staff welcomed us onboard. After settling into our cabins, we had time to get familiar with our new home as luggage was delivered and the ship prepared for departure. Once everyone had embarked, we gathered in the lounge for a mandatory ship safety briefing. This was followed by a familiarization with the emergency life vests and lifeboat stations under the guidance of the crew. With all formalities complete, Ortelius pulled away from the dock and went to anchor for a couple of hours. There was one last thing before we could begin our voyage around Spitsbergen and Nordaustlandet. An important piece of luggage did not arrive in Longyearbyen with its owner, and it was due to land with the SAS flight at 19:00. By just after 20:00 it was on board.

Meanwhile, we gathered in the lounge to meet key members of the onboard team. Hotel Manager Vova gave an introduction to the ship and onboard services. Our Swedish Captain, Per Andersson, followed up with a characteristically warm welcome and a toast to the voyage. Then Expedition Leader Ali gave an overview of our plans for the voyage and introduced the talented and highly experienced Expedition Team that would guide us over the coming days.

Then it was time for our first dinner, and an opportunity to get to know some of our fellow travelers. The evening concluded with the distribution of our expedition Muck Boots, essential equipment for the excursions to come. With preparations complete and anticipation growing, many retired for the night as Ortelius made her way out of Isfjord. Those that remained up and about were rewarded with a fantastic view of dramatic Alkhornet bathed in soft light as Captain Per deliberately sailed in closer to the land than normal to take advantage of the scenery.

After a good breakfast the morning began with a Zodiac cruise through the brash ice in front of Lilliehöökbreen, one of Svalbard’s more impressive tidewater glaciers. We threaded our way through the loose ice, enjoying close views of the glacier front and the constantly shifting patterns of ice, water, and mountain landscape.

The cruise provided an excellent opportunity to experience the glacier from sea level and observe the dynamic environment surrounding its terminus. The brash ice was dense, which made the return to the ship slow from the distance we had explored without realizing how far from the ship we had cruised. It was a great start to what promised to be a great voyage.

While we enjoyed our first buffet lunch onboard, Ortelius was navigated through the serene waters of Lilliehöökfjorden and Krossfjorden, before entering Kongsfjorden where our afternoon destination awaited. Here a cold breeze greeted us. We spent the afternoon ashore at Ny-Ålesund, one of the world’s northernmost permanent research settlements. Captain Per had berthed his ship skilfully alongside the small pier, so it was an easy disembarkation by gangway.

We explored the settlement on foot and stopped at the gift shop, which was a particularly enjoyable visit for those keen to pick up a souvenir and send a postcard home. Further up the track we came upon a statue of Roald Amundsen, who launched two of his North Pole expeditions from Ny Ålesund. While walking through the settlement, an Arctic fox suddenly ran past the Chinese ‘Yellow River’ research station, providing an unexpected and memorable wildlife encounter. A few Svalbard Reindeer were also found grazing among the buildings. We then walked out toward the historic airship mast, where Marcelo gave an engaging talk about the history of the area and its connection to the great early airship expeditions to the North Pole by the great Roald Amundsen and Italy’s Umberto Nobile. The combination of Arctic history, modern polar science, wildlife, and the stark landscape surrounding Ny-Ålesund made for a memorable afternoon ashore. We strolled back to the ship for our daily recap and a well-deserved dinner on board.

This morning’s wake-up call from Expedition Leader Ali delivered the exciting news that we were approaching the pack ice, and the weather was excellent! This created a bit of a pre-breakfast migration to the outer decks as many guests looked forward to a new and exciting experience. Soon, breakfast was announced and everyone headed back inside. Meanwhile, Captain Per gently guided Ortelius into the ice, sending the occasional shudder through the ship as her strong hull connected with heavy ice floes.

As everyone made their way out of breakfast, a unique High Arctic landscape surrounded the ship. Sea-ice floes stretched out to the horizon in all directions as Ortelius slowly made her way into the realm of the Polar Bear. At first, the ice floes were relatively small, but they quickly became larger and heavier. The bridge crew and expedition team scoured the vast expanse of ice with binoculars, straining their eyes in search of wildlife. Many seals were spotted in the distance, and one Bearded Seal allowed us to make a close approach with the ship. Despite there being plenty of Polar Bear food around, there was no sign of the bears themselves.

Sunglasses were essential while walking around the outer decks, which were bathed in glorious sunlight. The view across the ice revealed pressure ridges, azure melt-water ponds and the occasional set of Polar Bear tracks. The Lord of the Arctic was out there somewhere! And more than likely, had eyes on us! As Ortelius ventured deeper into the ice, it seemed appropriate to have a lecture on sea ice. So, at 11:00 we were invited to join Expedition Guide Aitana in the lounge for a talk about one of her favorite subjects.

Outside, as the morning wore on, more seals were spotted, along with passing Kittiwakes, Brunnich’s guillemots, Little Auks and Northern Fulmars. But still the Polar Bear eluded us. Soon the announcement for lunch echoed around the ship. With everyone inside for a while, Captain Per took the opportunity to move Ortelius into more open waters and move a few miles to a new area of ice which looked denser. There were lots of seals, both in the water and hauled out on ice floes. The main species were Bearded and Harp seals.

As the ship re-entered the ice, the bridge crew and expedition staff continued their diligent search for wildlife. The bright sunlight on the ice made it hard on the eyes, and those making the biggest effort were encouraged to take breaks. At 14:30 we were invited to the Lounge to join Expediton Guide Emily for a lecture about Polar Bears. It was hoped that this might encourage the real thing to appear. Outside it was clouding over and fog banks loomed ominously on the horizon.

The search continued through the afternoon, and still there were no bears to be seen. Given the abundance of seals, this was surprising! Bird life was also plentiful with Arctic Terns, Arctic Skuas and a lone Ivory Gull being the avian highlights of the afternoon. At 16:00, Marcelo gave a unique history presentation in the lounge which included a ‘show and tell’ session using his private collection of artefacts and memorabilia that relate to key historical stories from the region.

The daily program of events concluded with Ali giving her briefing on plans for the next day’s activities. In the meantime, the Expedition Team continued their binocular vigil from the Bridge. As everyone headed off to dinner, Captain Per guided Ortelius into a large lead of open water where the ship could gain some speed, with a massive solid pan of ice on off the port side. This was excellent ice for Polar Bears! The spotters on the bridge scoured the surface. Eventually, their efforts were rewarded.

Expedition Leader Ali spotted a Polar Bear resting on the ice floe, curled up on the side of a small hummock. Captain Per slowed Ortelius to a halt while everyone finished their main course, and then Ali announced the exciting find. Desert could wait. In fact, it was available in the bar later on.

Captain Per slowly and skillfully maneuvered the ship towards the edge of the ice floe, and then the magic happened! The young bear rose to its feet and started walking in our direction. Showing remarkable curiosity, it confidently closed the gap between itself and us. Meanwhile, eagle-eyed Ali spotted a second Polar Bear a long way off our starboard side, which also appeared to be walking in our direction. But all eyes were on the first bear, which walked to the edge of the ice to get a good view of us. It calmly sat, then laid down, and put on a wonderful performance before our very eyes. Captain Per, in the meantime, had gently guided Ortelius as close as we could possibly get, with the ship’s bow resting against the edge of the ice floe. Mere meters separated us from the Polar Bear!

As the light slowly faded across the Arctic wilderness, our beautiful bear eventually rose to its feet and calmly walked away. As if concluding that there was no meal to be had from the strange metallic object that had come to say hello. As a parting gift, the bear crouched and went to the toilet on the ice! While all this was going on, the second bear had taken to the water and, after quite a long swim, had pulled out on a large icefloe some distance and directly behind the ship. This, a larger and older bear, was not interested in us, and was last seen walking in the opposite direction. This was typical of the majority of Polar Bears, which prefer to avoid contact with humans. How lucky we had been to encounter one so curious!

And so ended an unforgettable day in the High Arctic pack ice. Happy and somewhat chilled, many of us retired to the lounge for dessert and a celebratory drink.

Our day began with a gentle wake-up call at 7:15 from our Expedition Leader, Ali, who informed us of the outside temperature and weather conditions. Luck was on our side: bright sunshine, blue skies and beautifully glassy, calm waters awaited us in the remote Seven Islands.

After breakfast, we boarded the Zodiacs and made our way ashore to Phippsøya, where we were offered a choice of long, medium and leisurely hikes. Dividing into our hiking groups, we set off with our guides to explore the stark and remarkable landscape. Our first stop on each of the hikes was particularly special. A small group of Atlantic Walrus were hauled out onto the beach five hundred metres from our landing site. For many of us, these were our very first Walrus sightings. It was fantastic to see them relaxed and enjoying the sandy beach while bathed in glorious Arctic sunshine. A few swam by just offshore.

As we continued our hikes, the landscape revealed a fascinating story of both wildlife, history and geology. We discovered Arctic fox and polar bear footprints in the soft mud, reindeer antlers resting on the tundra, and the remains of whale bones in places.

Our guides explained the process of isostatic rebound, helping us understand how the land continues to rise following the retreat of the immense ice sheets that once covered the region. With the sun shining overhead, stunning Arctic scenery and lots of skuas and kittiwakes made it a fantastic morning on one of Svalbard’s most northerly islands.

Back on-board Ortelius, we enjoyed a delicious buffet lunch while the ship repositioned for our afternoon operations at Chermsideøya. A Zodiac shuttle took us ashore once again, where we divided into our hiking groups once more and set off for another adventure.

The long hikers followed a beautiful route around a lake, enjoying expansive views and the tranquillity of the surrounding wilderness. Meanwhile, the medium hikers took the opportunity to give something back to this remarkable environment, collecting plastic, fishing nets, ropes and other debris from the beach. The strong currents and winds can carry a surprising amount of marine litter onto these remote shores, making even a small clean-up effort feel particularly worthwhile.

With everyone back on the ship, we gathered for our evening recap. Ali delivered the plans for the following day, Emily introduced us to the fascinating world of Arctic Terns and their long migrations, while Aline helped us decipher some of the place names of Svalbard, giving us an insight into their Norwegian origins — and teaching us a little Norwegian along the way.

The sunrise appeared before us somewhat challenging at first. Visibility wasn’t good, the waves warned us that the Zodiac cruising at Kraemerpynten was going to be a bit rough, and the cold wind coming from the glacier that almost completely covers Kvitøya (White Island) would put our skills as polar explorers to the test.

From the bridge, they gave the good news that visibility was improving and that two Polar Bears had been spotted on the beach. Just as we were celebrating that discovery, one of the guides updated the information: there are actually three Polar Bears.

After a bumpy boat ride close to the coast, we were only able to see one of the bears since the others walked toward the interior of the island. The Zodiac ride continued with incredible navigation in front of an imposing glacier, on top of which we could spot more than 40 kittiwakes perched.

We went around an iceberg with intense light blue and bluish colours, and then, when the fog came back, we headed towards Ortelius, which was manoeuvring closer to help us re-board.

In the afternoon, once again the fog threatened to ruin our second activity of the day, but fortunately its intensity decreased, so we got back in the Zodiacs for a ride that was less turbulent than the one in the morning. We approached the beach and were able to see a Polar Bear resting, or rather conserving its energy, in case of a possible lack of food. After enjoying the bear for some time from the regulation distance, a second Polar Bear came into the area and, with indifferent behaviour, passed near the other one without bothering it, also seemingly planning to find its own spot to lie down. This was a fantastic opportunity to observe close interaction between two Polar Bears.

We continued sailing south until we reached an area of the coast with much flatter, more desert-like terrain. The name of this place – Andréeneset – recalls the leader of the tragic Swedish expedition to the North Pole led by Salomon Andrée, who on July 11, 1897, after a failed attempt the previous year, took off from Danes Island, located in the northwest of the Svalbard archipelago, in a hydrogen balloon along with Knut Frænkel and Nils Strindberg. Due to the loss of the ropes that served as rudders, the accumulation of ice on the balloon, and the loss of gas, they were forced to land on the ice field near latitude 83° N on July 14. From there, they embarked on an extremely tough journey with the intention of returning to land.

After much sacrifice and deterioration of their health, they managed to reach the place we visited today, where we could see from a distance the monument that honours their memory. Their bodies were only found in 1930. A sad and desolate place, but one that left lessons for future explorers and an incredible love story between Nils Strindberg and his grieving fiancée Anna Charlier.

Very few ships usually visit this remote place where Sweden’s most published expedition reached its tragic conclusion. It seemed fitting that a modern-day Swedish explorer had brought us to this place. Thank you Captain Per. We considered ourselves lucky, returning to the ship to regain energy in order to be able to observe the grandeur and beauty of the glacier and wildlife.

We woke up with our morning call from our Expedition Leader Ali - ‘Good morning, good morning’ - at 07:45 this morning. This was a little later than the past few days, so everyone enjoyed a little lie-in. We enjoyed our breakfast, while we were making our way towards the incredible glacier Bråsvellbreen. This morning, we cruised and approached the glacier with M/V Ortelius and enjoyed some wonderful sights of this massive glacier. The visibility was limited to start with but was slowly improving over the course of the morning. We wrapped ourselves up warmly, to enjoy the views of the glacier. We enjoyed the waterfalls coming down the glacier as we were coming closer. There were also some seals with us, what a joy!

In particular, we admired the marvelous ship-handling skills of our Captain. Halfway through the morning, the hotel department prepared delicious hot chocolate with cream, served on the outside deck behind the bridge, to keep us warm while enjoying the scenery.

After a lovely time at Bråsvellbreen, we continued our course towards Torellneset: a headland at the southwestern side of Nordaustlandet, Svalbard. The headland is named after geologist Otto Martin Torell. This place is famous for two things: the polar desert landscape and Walrus which haul out on land. Everyone was very keen to enjoy and have some fascinating Walrus sightings. We went for a landing at Torellneset after a wonderful lunch onboard M/V Ortelius. We had a few hiking options, and everyone enjoyed the beautiful sight at their own pace.

Once back on board, we warmed ourselves up again, preparing for the briefing of our Expedition Leader Ali. She shared our plans for tomorrow and we enjoyed some short presentations from the Expedition Team. Later that evening, for our dinner, the galley and hotel department had prepared a wonderful barbeque to be enjoyed by everyone on the open deck: a real Arctic barbeque for crew and guests! We all enjoyed the warmth of the delicious food while breathing in the fresh Arctic air. This must be for most of us the most northern barbeque we have ever had! A memory to treasure.

After a day filled with incredible adventures and exciting experiences, fantastic sights and dramatic scenery, all enjoyed in good company and delicious food prepared by the galley and hotel department, most of us took an early night, to be fully rested for the exploration of the next day ahead of us. We were slowly travelling down towards the south of Svalbard with remote Barentsøya our next destination; we are all truly excited.

The day started a little earlier than planned. At 06:45, thirty minutes before our scheduled wake-up call, an announcement came through: “Four polar bears on shore”. That was enough to get everyone out of bed very quickly and onto the bridge. There was a female with two second-year cubs and, not far away, a big male.

From what we could see, it looked like he might have been pursuing the family, potentially trying to get at the cubs. They had clearly been running, and by the time we were watching them they were stretched out on the ground, trying to cool down and catch their breath after all the effort. Captain Per guided Ortelius as close to shore as he safely could, and we observed the anxious stand-off for a while. The male laid down on the beach, while the female and cubs laid down higher up on the hillside, all on their guard and facing the male. This was not a bad way to start a Sunday.

We continued Through Freemandsundet towards Sundneset, our planned landing for the morning. However, the combination of drifting fog and four polar bears, which were a little too close for comfort, meant that landing was not a safe option. So, on to Plan B – Diskobukta – which was originally our Plan A for the afternoon.

When we arrived, we could see the beautiful canyon emerging through the fog, its cliffs full of Kittiwakes. We were still hopeful that we might be able to go ashore, but while scouting with binoculars from the bridge, our team discovered another two polar bears up on the hillside. This was crazy! Six bears before 10 o'clock.

Of course, landing was not possible and Diskobukta was now also off the menu. The Captain and Expedition Leader had to do some quick strategizing and soon we were off in pursuit of Plan C. As good explorers, of course, we always have a Plan C! We turned towards Boltodden on the east coast of Spitsbergen, where we hoped to finally stretch our legs and have a look at some dinosaur footprints.

On the way there, we had three mini lectures to keep us entertained: Ali talked about birds, Emily introduced us to the world of Walruses, and Rustyn tackled the ever-relevant subject of seasickness. Meanwhile, from the bridge, a couple of whales thought to be Fin Whales were spotted passing by. They didn't seem particularly interested in us and continued on their way.

After lunch, we finally arrived at Boltodden. The scouting team went ashore, and this time returned with the news we had been waiting for: No bears! Hooray! We could finally disembark.

We set off on our now-famous long, medium and short hikes, spending a lovely afternoon walking across the tundra and visiting the dinosaur footprints. After several days surrounded by polar desert, the vegetation and splashes of colour were especially welcome. The long hikers explored the adjacent valley complex, hiking deep into the valley, where the tundra gave way to a landscape with an almost lunar-like appearance. Although stark and barren at higher levels, there was an incredible beauty to this rarely visited part of Svalbard.

Eventually, we made our way back to the ship, where we gathered to hear the plans for tomorrow. Six polar bears, a few whales, thousands of birds, dinosaur footprints, flowers, fog and three different landing plans. Just another beautiful day in the Arctic!!!!

The day began overcast and cold with low cloud obscuring the lofty peaks of Burgerbukta, on the north side of Hornsund. After breakfast we boarded the Zodiacs for an exploratory cruise in this spectacular area. We headed deeper into the bay towards the dramatic glacier front of Paierlbreen. The local bird life was largely represented by Kittiwakes, frequently seen resting on pieces of ice and taking their morning bath. A few Glaucous Gulls and Black Guillemots, as well as a lone Puffin were also spotted by some Zodiacs. Deeper into the bay there was a lot of brash ice from glacier calvings, and the Zodiac drivers had a lot of fun as they skilfully pushed their sturdy craft ever closer to the mighty glacier. From a safe distance, most of the Zodiacs witnessed dramatic calvings as the glacier spewed even more ice into the already ice-choked waters of the bay.

We drove parallel with the glacier front and found a narrow belt of clear water on the west side of the bay at the foot of the cliffs. This allowed us to admire the spectacular geology, a hanging glacier and cascading waterfalls... one of which ejected from a hole near the foot of the cliffs. Where the water enters the mountain is a mystery that may never be solved. By now it was drizzling and we were getting quite damp, and after two hours in the boats many were feeling the cold. The hot chocolate machine was calling! The Zodiac drivers had to push through one last heavy band of brash ice before safely returning us to Ortelius. What a thrilling adventure Burgerbukta had given us! Soon it was time for a welcome hot lunch as the ship made her way towards our afternoon destination on the southern shores of Hornsund.

After lunch, we arrived at Gåshamna for an afternoon of hiking and exploration. Along the shore, we explored historic whalebone remains and ruins associated with the Pomors, the Russian trappers and hunters who operated in Svalbard centuries ago. A highlight was an extra-long, extremely steep hike that became known among the group as the “55-degree misery march.” Roughly half of the group took on the challenge and pushed all the way to the summit. The top was shrouded in fog, so there were no views from the summit itself, but the scenery throughout the climb and descent was spectacular. Despite the demanding terrain, everyone who attempted the hike completed it and returned excited and proud of the accomplishment. The medium hiking groups stayed at lower elevations, exploring the surrounding terrain and searching for wildlife, while the leisurely group explored the low area beyond the beach. It was a beautiful Arctic afternoon, and we eventually returned to the ship for our final recap of the voyage.

In the wee hours of the morning (01:00) we dropped anchor in the protected waters of Trygghamna, just north of Alkhornet, our next destination. At 07:00 Captain navigated the ship around the point to our landing for a thorough scout for bears. Once Ali and the team felt the area was clear, we proceeded with our morning plans for hiking at Alkhornet.

The Long Hikers set out first with Ali, Marcelo, and Susanne. Next, the Medium Hikers – one group with Rustyn and Aline, and the other with Brenya and Emily. And finally, the Leisurely group with Allan and Aitana. Alkhornet is one of those sites that is easy to let your guard down. It delivers beautiful views, fantastic plant life, and plentiful wildlife with ease – and while polar bear encounters are still possible here, it feels as though you’ve entered the Garden of Eden; Svalbard’s version at least. It really is one of Svalbard’s most beautiful and serene sites.

The reindeer appeared in their dozens, including one with reddened antlers and some young just a few months old. Arctic foxes scampered about the lush green tundra. Arctic skua, Terns, and of course, thousands of Kittiwakes filled the skies and called in the distance. I believe today was the shortest of all hikes across the entire trip, as the amount of wildlife had us all stopped in our tracks enjoying and taking ‘just one more photograph!’

Back at the landing, the hiking groups merged and the daring of the bunch – the polar plungers – headed to the beach for a frigid swim in the Arctic Ocean! With cheering and applause from onlookers, a good number seized the opportunity with enthusiasm and extreme bravery. Congratulations to those of you who took the plunge!

Alkhornet had been nothing short of breath-taking! We reflected on its beauty and the extraordinary wildlife encounters it had gifted us as we made the short transit during lunch to Ymerbukta - our afternoon destination where we had a different kind of landing planned – a perimeter landing, meaning that guests were able to roam about within the staff boundaries which included a high-point for those wanting a bit more of a leg stretch. Those who climbed to the highest point had a fantastic view over the glacier, Esmarkbreen, taking in the enormous amount of ice it holds and the mountainous peaks that surround it. Most people also visited the glacier face at ground level, from a safe but close distance. In the safe area of the glacier, we were able to actually touch it and listen to the active melt drip from a small cave that had formed. Many guests found a quiet place throughout the perimeter for themselves to take in a silent moment and reflect on the amazing journey we have had here in Svalbard.

Back on board, the packing continued in earnest. In the evening, we toasted a final farewell to Captain Per and his amazing crew, and of course the highly talented Expedition Team that had guided us every step of the way throughout the voyage. We enjoyed a wonderful slideshow summary of our journey produced by Susanne. And then it was time for our final dinner, during which we met the entire hotel department and got to show our appreciation for all their hard work. An evening of socializing and farewell drinks followed as Ortelius lay quietly at anchor in sheltered Colesbukta for the night.

At 05:00 the anchor was heaved and Ortelius steamed the last few miles to Longyearbyen. A few early birds joined Chief Officer Warren on the bridge for the final views of the coast as we sailed deeper into Isfjorden. While docked at the main pier, we woke up one last time to Ali’s calm voice. We put our check luggage outside our cabins and headed for one final breakfast buffet. Outside, it was another bright day and the waters around Longyearbyen were quiet. The expedition team moved our luggage onto the pier, and then it was time to disembark. We made sure our luggage was loaded on to the correct truck and that we were on the right bus, heading for either the airport or town. It was time to say goodbye to the expedition team and crew onboard, and to our fellow travelers and new friends. What an amazing journey this has been, exploring the Arctic wilderness. With unforgettable memories we were ready to travel home or perhaps move on to new adventures. It was with a heavy heart that we bid farewell to Ortelius, our home from home, for the last 9 days.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,225 nautical miles

Farthest north: 80°49.2’ N, 013°46.3’ E

Your Oceanwide Expedition Team

Standing (L-R): Ran, Zoy, Aline, Ali, Allan, Susanne.

Seated (L-R): Aitana, Brenya, Emily, Dr. Eva, Rustyn, Marcelo.