This July, Global Health and Tropical Medicine doctor Sjoerd Verschoor joined m/v Plancius in Svalbard as the ship's doctor, exploring the many wonders of the High Arctic and keeping our guests in tip-top shape! We sat down to hear about his experience in the polar bear kingdom.
For Sjoerd, practicing medicine in remote, far-flung places is nothing new. His medical studies and passion for helping people have taken him across the globe, from Malawi and Rwanda to India, Sierra Leone, Dunkirk, and now the spiraling peaks of Svalbard. "I love exploring new places, preferably where not too many tourists go," says Sjoerd. "This has taken me to many continents and places, so I am not easily distraught or surprised. Sometimes I return a little tired, and this time, that was certainly true - but for all the right reasons!"
On Oceanwide vessels, the ship's doctor is a medical professional who joins the vessel alongside the Expedition Team. Although all are trained medical professionals, their backgrounds vary, from general practitioners to disease specialists and surgeons. In Sjoerd's case, his background brought a diverse range of medical training and expertise, ideal for the requirements of an expedition doctor. "As a Global Health & Tropical Medicine Doctor, I have seen many other remote settings already, but this was my first polar cruise! It was a lot of fun being part of the expedition team and getting a glimpse of what it means to be part of such an organization. Interacting with the guests and being part of the adventure was special and unique. Luckily, there were very few medical complaints, so I also got to enjoy my time in the pack ice and during landings!"
Picture by Katrin Frosin
In addition to treating guest complaints such as seasickness and minor cuts and bruises, Sjoerd played an instrumental role in the Zodiac boarding process, helping guests board safely before every landing and excursion. "I am not the sort to go on a relaxed holiday," Sjoerd smiles. "So, this was perfect! It was a very interesting way to combine my professional interest in medicine with my personal interest in adventure."
His expedition was a 9-night adventure in northern Svalbard, and included several days in the pack ice far to the north of the archipelago.
Limited resources, maximum experience
While onshore, Sjoerd accompanied the guests and guides on hikes, such as at Texas Bar, where rugged climbs led the group to expansive lookout points overlooking the magnificent Monacobreen glacier, or on the boulder-strewn slopes of Bockfjord, where they explored volcanic hot springs and spotted rock-hopping ptarmigan. The expedition doctor always carries a medical bag with supplies ready to treat minor complaints. On the vessel, a small medical bay is stocked with a more robust array of treatment and observation equipment. While limited when compared with a hospital setting, it is usually more than sufficient for most concerns.
"I enjoy working in remote settings as a physician and having to solve issues without all of the resources available," says Sjoerd. "Being on an excursion and only having an emergency bag to support people can feel a bit daunting at first. Luckily, there were no major incidents during the trip, and I could enjoy the experience of being there as much as the guests!"
Picture by Katrin Frosin
In the informal and communal onboard setting of an Oceanwide vessel, guides and guests spend time together, mixing in the lounge, at shared tables during breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and throughout the deck areas and the bridge. This warm atmosphere elevates the expedition experience, with guests as part of a broader team, rather than a number on a ship's manifest. With this, Sjoerd strongly agrees. "Some of my strongest memories are the encounters I had with staff and guests, just spending time on the ship with them. Those interactions were really special, and the people you meet are unique. The atmosphere on board was great, and everyone was so interactive and engaged. From the lectures and casual chats to conversations over dinner and during landings, everyone learned and experienced together, and you could see friendships forming."
Environments that leave an impact
One of the standout parts of the voyage for Sjoerd was the multiple days spent in the pack ice to the north of the archipelago. The vessel passed 81°N, slowly navigating a vast landscape of scattered ice floes, open leads, and endless hummocky ice and pressure ridges that faded into a misty horizon on all sides. Here, seals, walruses, bowhead and blue whales, and plenty of seabirds kept Plancius company, although the king of the Arctic, the polar bear, did not make an appearance.
"It is an incredible experience to see such vast amounts of ice. Just stood on the deck and bridge, spotting wildlife through binoculars, or enjoying a hot chocolate with guests in the lounge, watching the ice drift by. I felt a sense of peace and a chance to decompress, as the landing days and Zodiac cruises can be busy for the team!" While no polar bears were spotted during Sjoerd's trip, he still had plenty of fantastic wildlife encounters, from Arctic foxes and bowhead whales to belugas, ivory gulls, and reindeer. "The bird cliffs at Alkefjellet were just incredible," recalls Sjoerd. "I have never experienced such natural chaos and a sense of spectacle. I almost didn't know where to point my camera!"
Picture by Katrin Frosin
Alkefjellet is an important breeding site for several species of seabird, including more than 60,000 pairs of Brünnich’s guillemots, along with glaucous gulls, kittiwakes, black guillemots, fulmars and skuas. Here, the sky is alive with thousands of birds darting between their nests high on the rock pillars, the rugged, carved inlets, and the open water. Some soared mere inches above guests as they cruised by Zodiac along the cliff front, the tops of the cliffs obscured in a soft mist, giving the whole place a Jurassic feel. The noise, smells, and sights of Alkefjellet have to be seen to be believed.
A key part of the Oceanwide experience is education, and guides aim to provide insight into the challenges faced by the polar regions. That wasn't lost on Sjoerd, who experienced firsthand the impact of visiting these fragile environments. "What has really stuck in my mind are the huge, often sadly reduced glaciers, such as Lilliehöökbreen. Some of the guides have been coming to Svalbard for decades, and hearing them remark on how far some of the glaciers have retreated has really left an impression. For me, it is no longer an abstract concept - I have seen the impact on the polar world for myself, and the same is true for anyone who takes part in one of these trips."
A doctor who has caught the polar bug
Despite the long days and the responsibility of caring for so many people in such a remote location, Sjoerd has been forever changed by combining his medical knowledge and career with his passion for adventurous travel. In a farewell speech on board before Plancius docked in Longyearbyen, the Expedition Leader urged guests to be careful, as everyone who visits the Arctic will almost certainly catch the 'polar bug', that is, the irresistible urge to return. For Sjoerd, that urge appeared almost immediately.
"I'll absolutely return to the Arctic if I have the chance. It was such a special experience. And after speaking with the guides and some guests who had been on other trips with Oceanwide, I have added Antarctica to my list of places to visit. To have the opportunity to do so as a doctor would be even more special."
Picture by Sjoerd Verschoor
Medical professionals can join Oceanwide trips if they have the relevant experience and can step away from their roles at home to spend extended periods on board for one or more trips. For many, one trip isn't enough, and they quickly find themselves signing up to return the following season, or even later the same year.
Famed polar explorer Frank Wild once said of Antarctica, "Once you have been to the white unknown, you can never escape the call of the little voices." For many, this has proven to be true. Returning to everyday life after finding yourself in a place so remote, beautiful, and free from human exploitation can often feel overwhelming.
"With my work in underserved countries and remote communities, I have become used to the feeling of reverse culture shock when I return home," says Sjoerd. "This time, I felt land-shock! Almost at once after I left the ship, I missed the company and the sense of togetherness I felt during the trip. That, and the ground beneath my feet wasn't moving!"