PLA07-26, trip log, Around Spitsbergen, In the realm of Polar Bear & Ice

Many guests arrived in Longyearbyen on the morning of embarkation day, where they spent the day exploring the town and enjoying their first impressions of Svalbard before the voyage began. In the afternoon, everyone gathered at the pier for the start of the embarkation process. Luggage was shuttled from the quay out to the anchored MV Plancius in the bay, and by 4pm an eager group of guests was ready and waiting for their first Zodiac transfer to the ship.

Once on board, the evening passed quickly as guests settled into expedition life. The programme included ship familiarisations, essential safety briefings, a welcome cocktail with Captain Christophe Colaris, and, of course, our first wonderful dinner together. As MV Plancius departed Isfjord and began her journey north towards our first scheduled activity, there was time to relax and admire the breathtaking scenery. The late evening light highlighted the distinctive flat-topped mountains surrounding the fjord, offering a spectacular first glimpse of the Arctic landscapes that awaited us.

Today marked the first full day of our Svalbard expedition and we started with a spectacular ship cruise along the magnificent Lilliehöökbreen. This vast tidewater glacier, stretching across the Lilliehöökfjorden, greeted us with towering ice cliffs glowing in shades of blue and white. As we quietly admired the glacier from the ship, we kept a watchful eye for wildlife and listened to the occasional crack and rumble of calving ice, an unforgettable introduction to the Arctic wilderness.

Following our glacier cruise, we gathered for the mandatory AECO guidelines and zodiac safety briefing in the lounge, ensuring that everyone was well prepared for the exciting days of exploration ahead. Our first landing took us to Signehamna, a beautiful bay on the North side of Krosfjorden, surrounded by rugged mountains, raised beaches and colourful tundra. Dividing into three hiking groups, we explored the landscape at different paces, tak-ing time to appreciate the rich Arctic flora, geological features and signs of the area’s fascinating history. Along the way we encountered Svalbard’s hardy birdlife and en-joyed sweeping views across the fjord, while learning how glaciers, post-glacial uplift and the harsh polar climate have shaped this remarkable environment.

During our afternoon transit to Ny-Ålesund in Kongsfjorden, the wildlife continued to surprise us. Several minke whales surfaced around the ship. Their sleek backs briefly breaking the calm waters before disappearing beneath the surface. The highlight came when a magnificent humpback whale appeared, treating us to prolonged views as it travelled through the fjord, a wonderful reminder of the rich marine life that thrives in these Arctic waters during the summer months.

Arriving at Ny-Ålesund, one of the worlds northernmost permanent settlements, we stepped ashore to explore this unique international research community. Our guides shared the remarkable story of Roald Amundsen and the historic airship expeditions that departed from here in the 1920’s in pursuit of the North Pole. We also learned about the cutting-edge scientific research conducted today, from climate monitoring and atmospheric studies to glaciology and Arctic ecology, highlighting to Ny-Ålesund’s vital role in understanding our rapidly changing planet.

As the evening drew in, we remained on deck for a scenic cruise through Krossfjor-den. Surrounded by dramatic mountain peaks, impressive glaciers and the soft light of Arctic Summer, we reflected on a day that perfectly captured the diversity of Sval-bard, from immense glaciers and abundant wildlife to fascinating history and world-leading science. It was a memorable start to our expedition, leaving us eager to dis-cover what tomorrow would bring.

After a very quiet night on a flat calm ocean the MV Plancius reached the pack ice edge around 08:00 in the morning. Soon the ice became denser until we were in an area with mostly 8/10 pack ice cover. Ice cover is measured in tenth, with 0/10th and 1/10th is open water with little drift ice, 8/10th and 9/10th is dense pack ice. Total ice cover is called fast ice (10/10th).

Besides being in the pack ice because of the beautiful scenery we are of course here with another reason: to find a Polar bear. The pack ice is the place where seals hang out and therefore it is also the place where polar bear will hunt for food. We saw several seal species throughout the day; ringed seal, bearded seal and harp seal. The latter being an ‘invasive’ guest from the ice east of Greenland. The absence of ivory gulls was a ominous sign for not finding any polar bear during the day. Ivory gulls follow polar bears and scavenge on the carcasses of seals. Especially during the morning foggy weather came and went, which didn’t help with finding a polar bear. When the day progressed, the visibility improved greatly and towards the even-ing it was even very clear. Several times during the day we changed position in the ice but that didn’t improve our luck. Every detail in the ice that looked slightly different from the white and blue around it was check out but no bears where found. What we did find was a respectful number of logs and even whole trees in the pack ice. These logs and trees originate from Siberia where they are transported by the rivers from the forested areas further south, all the way to the shelf seas (Kara Sea, Laptev Sea, …) and the Arctic Ocean. The ice than brings them in the direction of Svalbard. Once here, they often strand on the shore, hence the large amount of wood in some areas of the coast. Is there a better place for hot chocolate with rum and cream than in the middle of the pack ice? Probably not. Therefore, William and Marleen served the hot chocolate on the top deck behind the bridge while we still enjoyed the scen-ery of the ice.

During recap Frits gave short introduction on ice formation, ice(berg) physics and the changes in ice cover around Spitsbergen in recent years due to climate warming. You now know that only about 10% of floating ice is above the water surface and, thus, 90% is below. He also gave an example of the rapid changes in glaciers and how the lose mass. The area near Kongsvegen and Kronebreen in Kongsfjorden where we were yesterday changed greatly in the last 10 years. Where the captain took the ship near the glacier, there was still glacier about ten years ago. Katie then gave a presentation about the Beluga whale. She told use about their adaptation to life in the Arctic pack ice and about their diet. Special attention was given to Beluga called Hvaldemir which was found by Norwegian fisherman while he was still carrying a harness which bore the writing “Property of St. Petersburg”.

We were able to stay in the pack ice until close to midnight before the MV Plancius had to go back south for the next day. By that time the light was beautiful and the ice-scape looked almost magical. I say almost magical because it is really just phys-ics.

In the morning we visited beautiful Monacobreen and Seeligerbreen, until 2015 the glaciers were merged and shared the same glacier front that measured 5 km in length. Today the glaciers have retreated and are separated by the mountain Stor-tingspresidenten. During our cruise in Monacobreen we saw thousands of kittiwakes in front of and on the glacier. Belugas where swimming by the kittiwakes, and some came close to our boats. We also saw some nice calving events at Monacobreen. In front of Seeligerbreen there was a lot of beautiful brush ice and some of us took the opportunity to bring some real glacier ice back to the ship for their drinks.

In the afternoon we sailed into Bockfjorden for our second activity this day. We visited Jotunkjeldene, Svalbard’s “hot” springs. From the landing site we could see the yellowish cone that has been created where the “hot” spring is. On the beach we divided into three hiking groups, the mountain goats went for a long walk on the slopes of the mountain Smørstabben climbing many many boulders. From the highest point of their hike, they where rewarded with a beautiful view of the glaciers Friedrichbreen and Adolfbreen. The medium group explored the lowland around Jotunkjeldene and found an adventurous rout back to the landing site. During their hike they saw something very rare, a hybrid between a Common eider and a King eider. The leisurely group also conquered the difficult terrain and managed to get up to Jotunkjeldene and could admire the beautiful sinter terraces and see the water slowly flowing out of the wells. The temperature in Jotunkjeldene is approximately 24°C, and the Bockfjorden area is the only place in Svalbard where we still have traces of vulcanism going on. In the background we could see the inactive volcano Sverrefjellet.

In the evening after dinner, we sailed to Gråhuken, where Christiane Ritter, together with her husband and another hunter, was overwintering during her time in Spitsbergen in 1934. We went ashore to see the cabin up close. Isabelle and Nathalie told us about Christianes life and read a few passages from her book, A woman in the polar night, a true classic in the polar literature. This allowed everyone to vividly imagine Christiane Ritter's challenging life in this remote place and to immerse themselves in her experience.

This morning we woke up once again to a beautiful sky, no wind and calm seas. What a privilege to have such conditions yet again.

Today we would start our activities with a landing at Chermsideøya. Chermsideøya is a barren, 14-square-kilometer island off the northern coast of Nordaustlandet in Svalbard. Separated from the mainland by the Beverlysundet strait, it is part of the Nordaust-Svalbard Nature Reserve and is primarily known for its rugged arctic terrain, diverse birdlife, and unique historical geoglyphs.

After breakfast we boarded the zodiacs and left the ship to go ashore. We landed on a sandy beach and enjoyed the surroundings and lovely weather until all us were on land. As usual Phillip gave us a short explanation of where were before he and the other hike leaders started explaining where they intended to go and what we would target to see.

The long hikers went up onto the ridge where they tried to reach some stunning viewpoints. The leisurely and medium hikers took it a bit slower and decided not to take a route too steep. The terrain itself was challenging enough as in some places we had to hop from one big boulder to the next. However we did enjoy the challenge and with such stunning scenery we had a lovely hike. The leisurely group had a day at the beach and they decided to collect a large pile of human trash that had washed up onto this pristine Svalbard beach.

This trash has not been left behind by visitors, but has been transported by ocean currents and it eventually found its way onto the beach.

After a lovely warm morning we made our way back to the ship for a well deserved lunch.

In the afternoon the team had planned another landing. We had made our way further north and we were targeting to land on Phippsøya, one of the so called Seven Islands. Phippsøya is the largest island in the Sjuøyane archipelago, located just 540 nautical miles (1,040 km) from the North Pole. The expedition team had informed us that Phippsøya is a beary place and as such it needed to be scouted extensively. While the team went on land, we could see some walrus on the beach and here and there we also spotted them in the water.

The weather was still wonderful so we hasted to get ready and set foot on the island. We splitted in our usual hiking groups and the medium hikers were the first ones to have a look at the big blubbery walrus who were resting on the beach.

The team briefed us thoroughly on how to approach walrus so we wouldn’t disturb them. Walrus don’t have good eyesight so if they are surprised they usually feel spooked and might go into the water. However these walrus seemed deep asleep so got enjoy seeing them from close distance.

We all enjoyed our landing on Phippsoya and many of us ended the hike with a 5 min Arctic silence before heading back to the ship.

The hotel team had not prepared a traditional restaurant meal, instead we were invited to come to the aft deck for a barbeque and outside dinner. It was a lovely evening and soon after we had finished eating the tables were cleared as to create a dance floor! Our legs were pretty tired, but some of us still had the energy and strength to make some amazing dance moves! For others it was time to sleep!

Good night everyone!

We wake up to glorious sunshine and blue skies as MV Plancius glides smoothly to-wards Torellneset. Even before we board the Zodiacs, the first walruses are already in sight. Once ashore, one group enjoys a short walk while the rest of us begin a slow and silent approach to the walrus haul-out along the beach.

The landscapes of Nordaustlandet are strikingly different from the rugged, mountain-ous coastline of western Spitsbergen. Here in the northeast, the mountains are low and rounded, sculpted by the glaciers that covered the region during the last Ice Age. Vegetation is sparse, with only a few drooping saxifrages and hardy Svalbard poppies adding touches of colour to the tundra. In the distance, we enjoy a clear view of Vegafonna, the nearest ice cap.

Watching the walruses is an absolute treat. They lie scattered across the beach, of-ten piled on top of one another, grunting, scratching, gently sparring, or perhaps simply playing. We are especially fortunate to spot two calves: one born last year, already sporting tiny tusks and frequently casting curious glances around, and a much younger calf born this season, snuggled close against its mother's side. We spend a wonderful amount of time observing these magnificent animals before quiet-ly making our way back. By now, clouds have begun to gather and the wind is picking up.

As MV Plancius cruises between the barren islands during lunch, the familiar "ding-dong" announcement echoes through the ship. This time it brings exciting news, Philipp, our Expedition Leader, has spotted a polar bear. We all rush out onto the decks. At first, it is little more than a creamy speck against the dark basalt of a stark, rocky island. As the ship draws closer, the bear comes into clearer view, calmly wan-dering across the landscape in search of food. Above its head, a flurry of Arctic terns circles relentlessly, diving and calling as they fiercely defend their nests. Judging by the birds' determination, it seems the bear may well have enjoyed an egg for lunch today.

Reluctantly, we leave the bear behind, knowing that another exciting excursion awaits us later in the afternoon.

By the time we arrive at Alkefjellet, the weather has changed dramatically. Strong winds whip across the sea, grey clouds fill the sky, and a heavy swell rocks MV Plan-cius as the Zodiacs are launched. Conditions may not look inviting, but we are all in-credibly glad we decide to go.

Alkefjellet is simply breathtaking. Towering cliffs of dramatic basalt columns rise ver-tically from the sea, becoming even more impressive the closer we get. The experi-ence is wonderfully immersive. Around 60,000 pairs of Brünnich's guillemots crowd the narrow cliff ledges, nesting shoulder to shoulder. Adults face the rock while care-fully sheltering their newly hatched chicks. The air is alive with birds; thousands take off and return in an endless stream, filling the sky and surrounding us with their deafening calls. High above, glaucous gulls stand watch from the cliff tops, ever alert for an unguarded egg or chick. It is a truly unforgettable Zodiac cruise.

Back on board, Kati gives an informative recap about walruses, while Ross shares fascinating insights into the lives of Brünnich's guillemots.

Yet this remarkable day is still not over. During the evening briefing, Philipp an-nounces that our captain has one final surprise in store: a scenic cruise to the mag-nificent Bråsvellbreen. This glacier forms the southernmost outlet of Austfonna, Eu-rope's largest ice cap, whose calving front extends for more than 200 kilometres.

Long before we arrive, the glacier dominates the horizon. Icebergs, some as tall as MV Plancius, drift silently past as we approach. The sight is unlike anything we have experienced so far towering ice cliffs rising over 30 metres above the sea, with countless waterfalls cascading from the glacier into the Arctic Ocean below. Bathed in the soft evening light, we spend the next hour slowly cruising along this spectacu-lar ice front, taking in its immense scale and beauty. It is difficult to comprehend the sheer size of Austfonna, the third-largest ice cap in Europe.

The powerful winds have built up impressive waves, adding even more drama to the already unforgettable scenery. Reluctantly, we finally leave the decks and head be-low, bringing another extraordinary day in the High Arctic to a close.

For some of us, this morning starts earlier than others. We were told last night that we will pass through the Heleysundet strait on our journey south from Braswelbreen, the immense ice wall we cruised the night before. Passing through this narrow chan-nel between small islands is a special treat, as ships cannot always travel here. The difficult and shallow waters mean that ships have to drive with the strong current to pass though safely at the right time of day and tide level. For those of us who wake early to take in the scenery it pays off, as we spot another polar bear on one of the small islands we pass. We take some time to soak up the dramatic landscape, bar-ren islands and many birds before we reach the other side. Quickly back to the bunk for a little more rest, before we get the usual morning call.

As we wake (again), we are reaching Negribreen, a big glacier complex on the east coast of Spitzbergen. Huge quantities of ice of all shapes, sizes and shades of blue and white float by as we near the impressive front. Time for another zodiac cruise! Given the weather forecast of strong winds, we are amazed by relatively calm condi-tions and full sunshine welcoming us on the water. The next two hours pass quickly, floating between some of the biggest ice bergs we have encountered so far, many ivory gulls soaring above us, and even a quick sighting of beluga whales for some lucky zodiacs in the back. As we decide to go back to MV Plancius, we find it hard to bid our goodbyes to this ice world. However, some cold fingers and toes are asking for a hot cup of tea or coffee in the lounge.

In the afternoon, we find a sheltered bay on the east coast where we can land for another explore at Dunerbukten. The landscape at this site is different to what we have encountered up to now, barren hills and a mix of sedimentary and basalt rock greet us. We become familiar with the infamous Svalbard mud, which we avoid as we hike through the little hills by the shore. We find many polar bear and deer tracks, even a full set of reindeer antlers, and learn about the permafrost layers that have broken and eroded the ground here. A stark reminder of the effects of climate change on the remote shores of these Islands. As the winds pick up further we are glad to gather in the lounge with a hot drink and have Koen tell us some facts about the star of yesterday, the polar bear! Now it is time to head far south, to the south -west, and we prepare for stormy seas on the way.

A chilly wind greets us as we approach the landing site at Gåshamna in Hornsund this morning. The Zodiac ride is lively, with waves keeping everyone alert, but once ashore the groups quickly split up for the morning's activities. Our self-proclaimed "mountain goats" set off to climb a nearby ridge for sweeping views over Hornsund, while the remaining groups wander among the fascinating remnants of a 17th-century whaling station.

Gåshamna is a textbook example of an early whaling settlement: a sheltered bay offering calm waters, a gentle slope where whale carcasses were processed, and a small hill that served as a lookout. Whale bones still lie scattered across the land-scape, a poignant reminder of the brief but devastating period in the 17th century when intensive hunting drove many of the coastal whale populations to the brink of extinction for their valuable blubber.

The circular stone foundations of the old try-works are still visible, built from rocks and gravel and once held together with whale oil and blubber. After a brisk and windy morning, a warm lunch on board is especially welcome. Our captain then treats us to another memorable ship cruise, taking us close to the mag-nificent front of Samarinbreen Glacier.

The afternoon brings a complete change of mood as we board the Zodiacs once again beneath brilliant sunshine and an intensely blue sky. Before us unfolds the breathtaking panorama of Treskelen, a truly exceptional sight, as these dramatic alpine peaks are so often hidden behind clouds. Every hiking group reaches spec-tacular viewpoints overlooking snow-dusted summits, vibrant green tundra, and countless ponds reflecting the surrounding mountains like mirrors.

The long hikers continue into an area rich in geological treasures. Large blocks of sedimentary rock dominate the landscape, and fossilised shells appear with remark-able frequency. Along the way, we also come across several enormous polar bear footprints, a clear reminder that we are only visitors in this wilderness. It is a long walk, but every step is rewarded, and cameras return filled with unforgettable imag-es. Back on board, it is already time for the evening recap. Frits shares the fascinating results of his research into mercury and PFAS levels in seals, offering an unusual glimpse into the realities of field science from sampling techniques and equipment to laboratory findings. Ross then revisits yesterday's remarkable observations of ivory gulls at Negribreen, explaining just how exceptional these sightings were. Nathalie rounds off the session with a journey through Svalbard's history, revealing the stories behind some of the archipelago's place names.

After dinner, we enjoy one final ship cruise along the important glacier front of Brepollen. Bathed in the evening light, it provides a perfect ending to another unfor-gettable day in Svalbard.

This morning we arrive in Longyearbyen, where our journey comes to an end. As we enjoy one final breakfast on board, our luggage is already being transferred ashore from MV Plancius. Before long, it is time to say goodbye to the ship that has been our comfortable home in the Arctic over the past days.

With countless unforgettable memories to take home, we look back on an extraordi-nary expedition. Together, we have explored spectacular landscapes, encountered remarkable Arctic wildlife, experienced the pack ice, and shared many special mo-ments along the way. Now it is time to bid farewell to MV Plancius, to the wonderful crew who looked after us each day, to the Expedition Team who shared their knowledge and enthusiasm with us, and of course, to one another.

On behalf of the entire Oceanwide crew and Expedition Team, we would like to thank you all for joining us on this journey. Thank you for your enthusiasm, your curiosity, your flexibility, and for the many wonderful moments we have shared. It has been a true pleasure to travel with you.

We wish you a safe journey home and hope to welcome you aboard again on anoth-er expedition someday, perhaps back in the Arctic, perhaps in Antarctica, or at an-other fascinating destination somewhere in the world. Until then, we wish you all the very best and many more unforgettable adventures.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,302 nm

Northernmost position: 80°40.7’N, 012°33.2’E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Christophe Colaris, Expedition Leader Philipp Schaudy, Hotel Manager Jeroen Barnes and all the crew and staff of M/V Plancius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you.

After another somewhat swelly night, we wake to our morning call still en route to our morning landing. Before us, the impressive rock face of the Alkhornet peak appears in the mist. It is foggy and still windy outside, but as we enter the Zodiacs to take the short shuttle to shore, the sun breaks through the clouds and a rainbow welcomes us on the lush green land ahead. We were told that this landing and high cliffs of 417 metres are home to over 10.000 breeding pairs of brünnich's guillemot as well as many Kittiwakes, and to no surprise we can hear them calling high up as we start our walks. Before we are able to cover much distance, we encounter some reindeer grazing on the plentiful vegetation that covers all of the hillside below the bird cliff. Quietly we observe them as they feed close to us, unbothered by our presence and excitement. An arctic skua is nesting on the ground and fiercely defends its nest area against an intruding reindeer. We watch the show for a while, then make our way higher up across streams and beautiful moss beds. Our knees thank us for the soft floor after a few days of rocky hikes. The wet landscape has allowed many mush-rooms to sprout between the carpets of box saxifrage bathing the landscape. Com-pared to our visits to Northern sites, we feel as though we are walking through a lus-cious land of fairies. We are never far from reindeer for the rest of the hike, stopping often to observe them, and even spotting a young calf laying in the moss.

In the afternoon MV Plancius is set on course for our afternoon landing. Philips voice pulls us from our post-lunch fatigue with news of a blue whale off the bow of the ship. For 30 minutes we get to watch the huge blows and diving behaviour of the largest animal that has ever lived on earth. Eventually, we say goodbye and head for our final destination, Dahlbrebukta. Here, we find ourselves in a bay close to the Dahlbreen glacier. We hike up to the viewpoint and take in the breathtaking scenery of a glacier front one last time. It doesn't really get old, so we try to capture the view in our last few photos and head back to the bay. Finally, it is time for the polar plunge! The cold water is amplified by the glacier nearby as we run into the waves. At least the air feels warm after we get out, and we get a VIP spot on the fist zodiacs back for the last zodiac shuttle of the trip.

In the evening we gather in the lounge for a farewell of Philip and the hotel team with prosecco, we thank the captain and get to enjoy the infamous slideshow from Ross we have been hearing about for the whole trip! While we slowly cruise towards Long-yearbyen over the rest of the evening we take in the views in the lounge, before our bunks call us one last time.