We spoke with Gabi Kolodko, an Expedition Guide with Oceanwide Expeditions, during a recent trip to Scoresby Sund, Greenland, who shared what she loves most about her job and why the people she spends each day with make the polar experience truly special.
"It's so much more than pictures and documentaries show, from the lichen below our feet, the color of the water, or those icebergs far below," Gabi Kolodko explains as we make our way across the undulating slopes of Jameson Land, beneath ice-grey skies in Scoresby Sund, Greenland.
For the past six days, Gabi and the rest of the expedition team aboard m/v Ortelius have guided guests among the icy, dramatic fjords of Scoresby Sund. Despite the now overcast weather, the previous days had been bathed in the spectacular autumnal colors of the Arctic tundra, blazing under clear blue skies. Many guests were unsure of what to expect in Greenland, yet for the past few nights, chatter in the bar aboard the Ortelius has been full of excitement and wonder at the conclusion of each day.
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"On these trips, people see places that they never thought they would see, and if they have expectations, nine times out of ten, the reality is so much greater," explains Gabi. "This is an expedition, not a cruise. We're off the ship, encountering wildlife, exploring untouched wilderness, and just losing ourselves in these stunning environments. There's peace here that can't be found anywhere else. It's an unforgettable experience. And that resonates with people."
While on board Ortelius, guests have access to free Wi-Fi; once ashore, there's nothing but them, their guides, and an immense expanse of untouched wilderness. "I like the illusion of remoteness," says Gabi as we discuss her favorite aspects of working in the polar regions. "I use the word illusion consciously because we're connected on the ship, but at a very tangible distance. I like that feeling of being so far away and the adventure it brings. You really feel like you are at the ends of the Earth."
"I also love life on the ship," she continues. "The rhythm, the structure, the repetition, in some ways. But I also love the people and the rest of my team. That structure is so important." Indeed, the expedition team is at the heart of the guest experience. In part, guests experience the polar regions through each guide, be it during a Zodiac cruise, a hike on shore, or downtime in the communal areas on the ship.
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"Trust is so crucial because it builds team spirit and a connection with the guests," agrees Gabi. "When the team is having fun, guests will pick up on that; they see the excitement and enthusiasm. If we as a team laugh, everyone laughs and relaxes. It's just human nature, it's infectious." This approach is encapsulated in the variation in experience, interests, expertise, and personalities of each expedition team member. Some are specialists in particular fields, such as wildlife, geology, or photography, while others are from field-based backgrounds or focused on the human touch.
"Personality is really important," explains Gabi as we pick our way across a small stream carving out the bed of a rocky ravine bordered by springy green moss and yellowing cottongrass. "Some of us are more introverted and science-focused; others are more outgoing outdoor enthusiasts. Others are passionate about photography, presenting lectures, and engaging with guests. This blend means we can always connect well with guests, no matter their interests or passions."
"You need variety. You need specialists on board to give a great experience for, say, birders or photography enthusiasts, but, on the other hand, we also need to have more general knowledge or interests in broader fields to make sure we offer something to all guests on each trip. It all adds to their experience. We're all different, and so are our guests!"
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Oceanwide Expedition guides come from all different backgrounds, often with long careers spent in research, wilderness guiding, or specializations that make them stand out as individuals. "Some of them are people you would never meet unless you spent years working at an Antarctic research station or out in the field in far-flung wilderness," says Gabi. "Before I joined Oceanwide, I never thought I would meet station managers of Antarctic bases, or bird ringers, or field biologists. But now, they're my colleagues and my friends. For guests, having these kinds of people on board and being able to interact with them is just so special."
As we stand gazing back out across towards the mountainous Volquart Boons Kyst on the far side of the vast fjord below us, Gabi explains that, before joining Oceanwide Expeditions as a guide, she had been a guest on a trip. "I was surprised by how much knowledge was on board," she recalls. "Before the trip, I felt I knew what activities we were going to do, but I didn't know I would have an ornithologist or a glaciologist with a PhD on board with me. It was such an elevation to my experience, and that's still the case, which is why I think the lectures we give are so fantastic."
This human touch gained through lectures, presentations, and each guide's approach to explaining the landscapes and wildlife throughout a voyage resonates with guests. As Gabi says, "People can watch a documentary, they can read a book, but it's different to hear personal stories. We're a huge part of this guest experience." The impact the guiding team has upon guests is clear to see, with many guests returning from previous trips and greeting guides like old friends and in reviews left at the end of each season. "I love the bonding with guests on these trips. In the end, we experience really personal goodbyes. People are surprised by who they meet on board and the experiences they have had, and I think they really appreciate it. You can feel the human connection come through."
Picture by Martin Anstee
For Gabi, this human connection is as important and exciting as her work environment. "I really love people," she says, lighting up enthusiastically. "So, for me, it's fantastic being part of their experience when they visit these spectacular places for the first time. For many guests, it's been their lifelong dream or the final tick on a very long bucket list. I feel privileged to be part of that experience - it excites me!"
"I get energy from people," she continues, "and I get so much joy from experiencing these places through the view of our guests. I am still relatively new, but I can already tell that when I visit a location for the 20th or 30th time, accompanied by guests seeing it for the first time, emotional or overwhelmed, I will always feel that excitement, that energy, just like the first time."
We stop once more and gaze ahead towards the main group, some stooping to take photographs of scattered musk ox bones or the carpet of lichen spread out across the rocky ground around them. Above, the first few flakes of snow begin to fall as winter begins to descend on Greenland. "Seeing people engage with these places and seeing what it means to them is what makes it special," Gabi says, waving her hand toward the group. "Often, people are emotional at the end of the voyage - their trip of a lifetime. I don't think many other jobs can offer you this. People sometimes cry when seeing the Northern Lights for the first time. Being with them for these moments in their life is amazing - I can be part of someone's epic story over and over again!"
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As we joined the other guests gathered around a large musk ox skull, busy eagerly theorizing its possible age and pointing out some birds taking flight in the far distance, Gabi's suggestion became clear. Undoubtedly, the polar regions are full of natural wonder and beauty, with landscapes beyond description. However, what may make an adventure into the polar regions truly special are the people with whom you share it.
