HDS05-26, trip log, North Spitsbergen Explorer - Versatile landscapes, sea ice & wildlife - Summer Solstice

Our Arctic adventure began beneath a blanket of cloud hanging low over Longyearbyen. The small port bustled with anticipation as fellow travelers gathered, eager to begin our voyage aboard Hondius. In the afternoon, we boarded the waiting Zodiacs, this inflatable boats that will become our best friends for exploration soon. The ride offered our first taste of the expedition spirit: wind on our faces, the scent of the sea in the air, and the unmistakable excitement of heading toward the ship that would be our home for the days ahead.

We were warmly welcomed aboard by the crew and escorted to our cabins, where we quickly settled in and familiarized ourselves with our surroundings. The ship hummed with quiet energy as passengers unpacked, explored the decks, and watched the dramatic landscape of Svalbard drift by beyond the windows.

Before long, we gathered in the lounge for the mandatory safety briefing. The bridge team guided us through the procedures and protocols that would ensure a safe voyage as we ventured into one of the most remote regions on Earth. The briefing also heightened our anticipation; every instruction seemed to hint at the remarkable experiences that awaited us among the fjords and the pack ice.

Soon afterward, we were invited to the Observation Lounge for the Captains Welcome with drink and snacks. There we also met the expedition team, whose enthusiasm for the Arctic was infectious, along with the hotel manager and key members of the ship’s staff. Introductions, laughter, and conversation filled the room as strangers quickly began to feel like companions on a shared adventure.

Our first dinner onboard followed, marking the true beginning of life at sea. As we enjoyed a delicious meal, Hondius continued her course through Isfjorden. Outside, the clouds gradually parted and a beautiful Arctic light spread across the landscape and we had our first wildlife encounter: belugas! We were excited as we wathed this small white whales swimming in the fjord around us. Golden rays illuminated the mountains surrounding the fjord, casting soft shadows across their rugged slopes. It was a breathtaking welcome to Svalbard and it perfectly set the tone for the extraordinary voyage ahead.

Our day began with the first wake-up call from Expedition Leader Chris, welcoming us to another exciting day in the High Arctic. We gathered in the Dining Room to enjoy a delicious breakfast while admiring the spectacular scenery outside. Little did we know that wildlife had already prepared some unforgettable surprises for us.

During breakfast, we spotted the first whales of our voyage, delighting everyone on board. Shortly afterward, another exciting announcement interrupted our meal: a polar bear mother and her cub had been sighted. We quickly made our way to the decks, cameras and binoculars in hand, eager to witness these magnificent animals. As if that were not enough, we also spotted walruses in the water, making for a remarkable start to the day.

The ship began repositioning, and just as we were about to start our mandatory briefings, another announcement echoed through the vessel. Yet another polar bear had been spotted in the distance. We sailed a little longer to get closer, and soon we were rewarded with wonderful views of a particularly playful bear. It provided a memorable wildlife encounter and an excellent opportunity for photography. After spending time with this Arctic icon, we resumed our course and attended the AECO, bear safety, and Zodiac briefings, officially preparing ourselves for the adventures ahead.

A delicious buffet lunch was served as we approached the stunning landscapes of Frambukta. With the magnificent Frambreen Glacier providing a dramatic backdrop, we enjoyed excellent food accompanied by breathtaking views before preparing for our first landing of the voyage.

The afternoon could not have offered better conditions. Under blue skies and bright sunshine, it was finally time to step ashore and experience Svalbard on foot. Frambukta provided a spectacular setting for our first landing, with impressive views of Frambreen Glacier dominating the landscape. Within a carefully established safety perimeter, we enjoyed a pleasant walk, stretching our legs while the Expedition Team continuously monitored the surroundings for any approaching polar bears. Along the way, we discovered walrus bones scattered across the tundra and spotted seals resting nearby. 

To make the most of the afternoon, we divided into two groups. While one group enjoyed the landing, 
the other embarked on a Zodiac cruise through the bay. During the cruise, we explored the coastline, observed a historic trapper’s hut, encountered the remains of a walrus carcass, and admired the magnificent Sellströmbreen Glacier. Afterwards, we swapped activities, ensuring that everyone had the opportunity to experience both the l anding and the Zodiac cruise.

The day concluded with our traditional recap. Chris shared the plans for the following day, building anticipation for the adventures still to come. Bill delivered another inspiring talk, encouraging us to see, feel, think, and fully engage with the extraordinary experiences unfolding around us. Valeria followed with practical tips and tricks for taking better photographs with our mobile phones, helping us preserve the memories we were already creating.

A delicious dinner was then served in the Dining Room, giving us the chance to share stories, photographs, and favorite moments from an unforgettable day.

With whales, walruses, multiple polar bear sightings, our first landing, our first Zodiac cruise, spectacular glaciers, and beautiful weather, we could not have asked for a better start to our Arctic adventure.

We awoke to a spectacular morning in Hinlopenstretet, greeted by brilliant sunshine, calm seas, and not a breath of wind. With such exceptional conditions, we spent the morning exploring the islands and coastline, keeping a close watch for wildlife in this remote and beautiful part of Svalbard.

As we cruised towards the entrance of Palanderbukta, several white shapes appeared close to the shoreline. A group of beluga whales was moving through the shallow waters, providing wonderful views from both the ship and the deck. Taking advantage of the calm weather and the wildlife activity, we decided to launch the Zodiacs and spend the remaining morning exploring the area from sea level.

The Zodiac cruise proved highly rewarding. Along the shoreline we enjoyed trying to find the belugas, while further out we discovered a walrus resting peacefully on an ice floe. Nearby, a bearded seal was also hauled out on the ice, offering excellent opportunities to observe these Arctic specialists in their natural habitat. The combination of wildlife, drifting ice, and perfect weather created a memorable morning for everyone on board.

After returning to Hondius for lunch, we continued south towards the dramatic bird cliffs of Alkefjellet. Conditions remained outstanding, allowing us to enjoy another Zodiac cruise beneath one of Svalbard’s most impressive natural spectacles. Towering dolerite cliffs rose directly from the sea, alive with the activity and sounds of approximately 60,000 breeding pairs of Brunnich’s guillemots. Thousands of birds wheeled overhead, streamed to and from the nesting ledges, and crowded every available perch, creating an unforgettable wildlife experience. We could also observe Glaucous gulls patrolling, as well as Kittiwakes nesting alongside the  guillemots with a different nesting strategy as they use moss and grass to build a proper nest, compared to the guillemots who just lay their egg on the rock edge. Even some of us saw an arctic fox searching for food in the area! What an unforgettable experience.

Back on board in the evening, we gathered for the daily recap, reflecting on a remarkable day of Arctic wildlife encounters and exceptional weather. The expedition team outlined plans for the following day, when we hope to spend our time exploring the sea ice in search of the unique wildlife that depends on this ever-changing frozen habitat.

Our first day exploring the sea ice north of Svalbard was one to remember. Early in the morning, we were woken by our Expedition Leader, Chris, with the exciting announcement that we were heading into the ice. As everyone gathered on deck, the ship slowly entered the frozen landscape, pushing gently through the drifting sea ice. The sound of the hull breaking through the floes and the ever-changing patterns of the ice made for a truly unforgettable Arctic experience. 

The weather was typically polar—cold throughout the day, with a mix of sunshine and overcast skies creating beautiful light across the ice. Not long after entering the ice, we were rewarded with our first marine mammal sighting: a group of beautiful beluga whales. Their bright white bodies stood out against the dark water as they gracefully swam alongside an ice floe, giving everyone on deck a wonderful welcome to the High Arctic. As we continued our journey deeper into the ice, birdlife surrounded us throughout the day. Black-legged kittiwakes followed the ship, while black guillemots and Brünnich's guillemots were regularly spotted on the water. An elegant ivory gull made a special 
appearance, and impressive swarms of little auks flew low over the sea, filling the air with activity. 

The highlight of the day came later when a small group of narwhals was spotted in the distance. Although they were far away and not easy to see, patient observers were rewarded with views of these incredibly rare and elusive whales as they surfaced among the ice. While everyone was focused on the narwhals, an unexpected bonus appeared—a magnificent bowhead whale surfaced nearby, making an already extraordinary wildlife encounter even more memorable. In addition, during our navigation through the ice we reached the northernmost point of our trip. After an incredible day surrounded by Arctic wildlife and breathtaking sea ice, we ended the evening with a festive barbecue on deck. With music playing, people dancing, and smiles all around, it was the perfect celebration of our first day in the ice. A day filled with unforgettable moments that will stay with us for years to come.

Our second day in the pack ice began beneath a blanket of low, overcast clouds. A light wind swept across the frozen seascape as we awoke aboard Hondius, drifting in one of the most remote wildernesses on Earth at around 80° North. Outside, the Arctic appeared as an endless icy desert, a world of white and grey stretching to every horizon. Yet despite the apparent emptiness, the expedition staff remained tirelessly on watch, scanning the ice for signs of life.

The morning passed quietly as we navigated through the pack. Around midday, Pierre began his eagerly anticipated lecture on polar bears. These magnificent predators are perfectly adapted to life on the sea ice, relying on it as a platform from which to hunt seals. Little did we know that we were about to witness these iconic Arctic residents ourselves. Marcelo set up a historic museum with amazing artefacts he had collected around the world about polar exploration.

Halfway through the lecture, excitement suddenly erupted. An announcement crackled over the loudspeaker: two polar bears had been spotted. In an instant, we rushed from the lecture room to the outer decks. There they were—a large male and a female moving gracefully across the ice. Through binoculars and camera lenses, we watched in awe as they gradually approached the ship. For several unforgettable moments, it felt as though we were studying one another across the frozen expanse.

Then came an extraordinary bonus. Right before our eyes, the male mated with the female, offering us a glimpse into one of nature’s rarest and most intimate spectacles. Few people ever witness such behaviour in the wild, and the decks buzzed with disbelief and excitement.

After lunch, Pierre resumed his polar bear presentation, while Bill followed with an insightful lecture about sea ice. The ice beneath us was not merely frozen water but a dynamic habitat supporting an entire Arctic ecosystem.

By late afternoon, the clouds had broken and sunshine illuminated the ice edge. To celebrate our success, we gathered on the bow for hot chocolate as Hondius drifted peacefully through the glittering landscape. It was one of those perfect polar moments that seemed almost unreal.

As if the day had not already delivered enough wonders, another announcement came just after the daily recap and shortly before dinner: a narwhal had been spotted resting near the ice edge. The lucky few who were in the right place at the right time caught a glimpse of its mottled back before it quietly disappeared beneath the dark water.

The evening concluded with Bill’s fascinating presentation on the relationship between ice and art, providing a thoughtful ending to an extraordinary day. Encounters with polar bears, a fleeting narwhal, sunshine on the ice, and the endless beauty of the High Arctic combined to make this one of those rare days that will remain etched in our memories forever.

Another beautiful Arctic morning greeted us as we awoke surrounded by the icy waters of Lilliehöökfjorden. Following breakfast, we prepared for a Zodiac cruise in front of the magnificent Lilliehöökbreen, one of Spitsbergen's largest and most impressive glacier complexes. Extending over 22 kilometres, the glacier dominates the fjord with its towering ice front, while freshly calved icebergs drift silently through the calm waters.

From the Zodiacs, we admired the striking shades of blue within the glacier's fractured face and listened to the occasional crack and rumble as the ancient ice slowly reshaped the landscape. The rich Arctic waters offered rewarding wildlife encounters, with several bearded seals resting on floating ice and flocks of common and king eiders feeding nearby. Keeping a careful watch across the fjord, there was also the exciting possibility of spotting elusive beluga whales as they travelled through the icy channels.

After returning to the ship for lunch, our afternoon expedition took us ashore at Signehamna, a peaceful natural harbour nestled within Nordvest-Spitsbergen National Park. Divided into long, medium, and leisurely hiking groups, we explored this fascinating landscape at different paces, each discovering its own unique character.

Signehamna combines remarkable natural beauty with a compelling chapter of Arctic history. During our walks, we visited the remains of the secret German World War II weather stations "Knospe" and "Nussbaum," hidden here until they were located and destroyed by Norwegian forces in 1943. Their weathered remnants stand quietly among the tundra, a reminder of the strategic importance of the High Arctic during the war.

Beyond its historical significance, the area proved rich in wildlife. Reindeer grazed peacefully across the tundra, seemingly unfazed by our presence, while the small freshwater ponds provided excellent habitat for red-throated divers and other Arctic birdlife. Delicate summer flowers had begun to emerge across the landscape, adding subtle colour to the mosses and lichens beneath the dramatic mountain backdrop.

Back on board, we gathered in the bar for the daily recap, sharing the day's wildlife sightings, photographs, and stories while learning more about tomorrow's plans. Dinner followed in the Dining Room before the evening concluded with Adam's presentation, introducing some of Oceanwide's other remarkable expedition destinations around the world. It was a fitting end to another rewarding day of exploration in the High Arctic, where spectacular glaciers, abundant wildlife, and fascinating history combined to create lasting memories.

Today we started our day early. Just after 8:00 am, we boarded the Zodiacs and headed to our first landing site, Gjersenodden, a beautiful peninsula in St. Jonsfjorden. The usually brown Svalbard landscape surprised us with a wonderful display of colorful flowers. The tundra was covered with yellow, white, pink, and purple blooms, making the scenery bright and beautiful.

After landing, we split into three hiking groups: short, medium, and long. All groups visited a small wooden cabin on the beach called Perhytta, or Per's Hut. It was built many years ago by a polar bear hunter and is a reminder of Svalbard's history.

From there, each group explored a different route. We walked across moraines, climbed higher for amazing views of a glacier, continued along the foot of the mountains through the green tundra, and along the beach followed by curious seals. Along the way, we spotted several Svalbard reindeer peacefully grazing, rock ptarmigans blending into the landscape, and Arctic skuas protecting their nesting areas.

Before leaving, the bravest members of the group took the chance to enjoy a real Arctic experience. They jumped into the icy water for a refreshing polar plunge.

After a delicious lunch, it was time for our next landing. This time we visited the unique island of Prince Karls Forland and landed at Poolepynten, a place famous for its walruses. Soon after landing, we walked to the beach to watch these huge animals resting together. We continued our hike past two huts and through an area where Arctic terns were nesting. The birds were very protective of their nests and flew close above our heads, trying to scare us away. We carefully kept moving, giving them plenty of space.

As we explored the wild Arctic coastline, we found old whale bones left from the time of whale hunting many years ago. We also came across the remains of a reindeer, most likely eaten by a polar bear. The bear had been there only one day before our visit. We could still see its fresh footprints in the sand. We stopped to compare the size of the tracks with our hands, and everyone was amazed by how large they were.

At the end of the day, it was time to celebrate our successful voyage with the traditional Captain's Cocktail. Everyone gathered together to enjoy the last evening on Hondius and look back on the unforgettable moments we had shared during our Arctic adventure.

Captain Remmert raised a glass and toasted to the amazing voyage, the beautiful weather, and the many lucky wildlife encounters we had experienced along the way. From polar bears and walruses to whales, seabirds, and reindeer, this expedition had given us memories that will last a lifetime.

A cloudy morning welcomed us in Longyearbyen. As we gathered for one final breakfast on board, there was a quiet sense of reflection in the air. Outside, the crew gently unloaded our suitcases, a silent reminder that our Arctic adventure was drawing to a close.

Over these past days, the Hondius has been far more than a ship—she’s been our shelter, our launchpad into the wild, and our floating home. Within her walls we’ve shared laughter, awe, and moments that will stay with us for a lifetime.

Together, we ventured deep into the high latitudes, witnessed landscapes sculpted by ice and time, and encountered wildlife most only dream of—polar bears, walrus, whales, the mesmerizing dance of seabirds in the Arctic skies and the most unique one: narwals! Along the way, strangers became companions, and companions became friends.

Now, with hearts and cameras full, we begin the journey home. Though we leave the ice behind, its spirit travels with us, etched into memory, carried in stories, and felt in quiet, unforgettable moments.

Thank you for joining us on this remarkable voyage. Your curiosity, warmth, and camaraderie made this journey truly special. Wherever your path leads next, we hope it brings you back to these wild places and perhaps, one day, back to us.

Until we meet again. Safe travels, and fair winds.