OTL03-26, trip log, North Spitsbergen Explorer - Into the pack ice - Polar Bear Special

Today was the day our Oceanwide adventure was going to start. We had all made our way to Longyearbyen in Svalbard. For many of us the first time to be this far north, but despite being in the high arctic, the weather didn’t resemble our expectations. It was a bright sunny day with hardly any wind and an abundantly shining sun.

Longyearbyen is the only city in Svalbard with around 2500 inhabitants. But it’s a lively place with many shops and places with good coffees and even better cakes. Some of us bought another hat or pair of gloves whereas others enjoyed lunch outside one of the cafes.

Oceanwide expected us at the main pier between 4:00 PM and 5:00 PM from where we would take a bus to our home for the next 7 days, M/V Ortelius.

Ortelius was moored at the so-called Coal Pier. Ortelius looked cool and rugged and seeing the ship immediately sparked our excitement. We received a warm welcome from the entire crew and were guided to our cabins.

Soon after, expedition leader Ali invited us to the bar for a mandatory safety drill. This is a standard procedure which was explained by our Chief Officer Don. Once the alarm signal had sounded, we took our bulky orange life jackets to the bar which was our muster station. After the abandon ship command was given, we made our way up to the lifeboat deck where 2nd Officer Sander gave us more instructions and information. With the sun still out, it was pleasant to be outside.

While we finished the drill, the deck team had started preparations for our departure. Many of us were on the outside decks while Ortelius slowly left the pier and made its way out into Isfjorden. To our surprise we spotted our first walruses which were lying on the beach close to the coal pier.

Then it was time for the official welcome. Expedition leader Ali introduced herself and the expedition team which consisted of many different nationalities and backgrounds.

Then she talked about the adventure that lay ahead of us and where we planned to go. Hotel Manager Vova provided us with useful information about the ship before the captain took over the microphone. Captain Barria spoke inspirational words before toasting the official start of the expedition. We couldn’t wait to experience it all!

Dinner was served and afterwards many of us decided to spend more time on the outside decks to enjoy the beautiful sunny evening, whereas others decided to turn in early to get a good sleep.

Good night, everyone!

The first day of our expedition began with a sense of excitement and anticipation. After breakfast, we gathered in the bar for a welcome briefing from expedition leader Ali, who outlined the plans for the day and introduced us to the adventures that lay ahead. With the Arctic landscape stretching beyond the windows and new experiences awaiting us, there was palpable eagerness among guests as we prepared for our first excursion.

Our first activity was a Zodiac cruise in Hamiltonbukta, a sheltered bay located along the northern coast of Spitsbergen, within the spectacular region of Raudfjorden. Surrounded by rugged mountains, glaciated slopes, and broad Arctic tundra, the bay offers a striking introduction to the landscapes of northwestern Svalbard. The calm waters and dramatic scenery provided ideal conditions for our first excursion, allowing us to fully appreciate the scale and beauty of this remote wilderness.

Wildlife quickly became the focus of our attention when two Arctic foxes were spotted running across the tundra. Their swift movements and striking appearance provided a wonderful introduction to Svalbard's wildlife.

As we continued along the shoreline, we approached a busy bird cliff with lots of activity. Thousands of kittiwakes circled overhead and crowded the ledges, while Brünnich's guillemots occupied every available space on the rock face and waters below. The constant movement and noise created an impressive spectacle. In the bay itself, two bearded seals were observed resting near the water's surface, occasionally surfacing to investigate our presence before disappearing once more beneath the calm sea.

After a rewarding morning on the water, we returned to the ship for lunch while the vessel repositioned to the western side of Buchananhalvøya. The weather remained favorable, and anticipation grew for our first extended hike of the voyage.

Once ashore, we set off on long, medium and leisurely hikes towards the northern part of Buchananhalvøya.

The route crossed gently rolling tundra interspersed with patches of snow, gradually gaining elevation and offering increasingly expansive views across the surrounding landscape. From the higher ground, we were treated to sweeping panoramas of the coastline, distant mountains, and the Arctic waters beyond. After descending from the ridge, the hike continued around a freshwater lake, whose calm surface mirrored the surrounding scenery. Throughout the walk, there were plenty of opportunities to pause for photographs, enjoy the fresh air, and immerse ourselves in the vast wilderness of the High Arctic.

Back on board, we gathered in the lounge for the evening recap. Pippa shared fascinating information about the seals we had encountered during the day, while Mark introduced us to the different species of guillemots found in Svalbard and their remarkable adaptations to life in the Arctic.

Dinner was served shortly afterwards, providing the perfect opportunity to reflect on the day's experiences and share stories with fellow travellers. As the evening progressed, the ship arrived off Smeerenburg, a historic area famous for its wildlife and whaling heritage.

Along the shoreline, several walruses could be seen hauled out together, resting peacefully on the beach. We gathered on deck to observe these impressive animals as they shifted slowly among the group. Then, as if the day had not already provided enough excitement, three polar bears were spotted resting in the snow nearby. The bears appeared completely relaxed, offering exceptional views from the ship. Cameras clicked continuously as guests watched these magnificent Arctic icons against the stark white landscape.

With walruses on the shore and polar bears resting peacefully in the evening light, it was a truly memorable conclusion to our first full day of exploration in Svalbard.

After a turbulent night transiting along Svalbard’s northern coastline, we awoke to overcast skies in the relative shelter of Lomfjorden. As we enjoyed another delicious breakfast prepared by our galley team, we continued deeper into the fjord. The skies gradually began to clear, with beautiful rays of sunshine dancing across the fast ice. And as we turned west, we enjoyed our first views of Faksevågen—our destination for this morning’s activities.

As the expedition team went ashore to scout the landing site, we donned our waterproofs and lifejackets and waited patiently at the gangway. After a short Zodiac ride, we split into our hiking groups and began our traverse across the beautiful Arctic landscape.

The hikers headed up onto the plateau, dodging dense snow patches in search of favourable terrain. Some, nonetheless, found themselves sinking to their knees in the slushy summer snow from time to time.

The real highlight of the morning was a Rock Ptarmigan, with all groups enjoying excellent views of these northern residents. The distinctive white males flew through the sky, their crimson-red caruncles sparkling against the tundra, whilst the camouflaged females moved cautiously across the landscape.

The long hikers enjoyed a brief Arctic fox encounter on their journey, whilst the short hikers were rewarded with beautiful views of reindeer along the shoreline.

After a wonderful morning ashore, all groups returned safely to the landing site, their memory cards full of beautiful images and their minds at ease after a refreshing morning in the Arctic wilderness.

Once back on board, we enjoyed another excellent lunch from our galley team before settling in for an afternoon ship’s cruise through Lomfjorden.

Along the way, we spotted bearded seals resting on the ice and admired the area's unique geology, including stunning views of a dolerite intrusion cutting through Permian limestone.

We continued onward, entering Hinlopen Strait before turning south towards our afternoon destination: Alkefjellet. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by fog and wind. However, with a little patience, good things came our way. After half an hour, the skies cleared, the winds dropped, and we were ready for our Zodiac cruise.

A true highlight of Svalbard, the 60,000 breeding pairs of Brünnich’s Guillemots lining the cliffs of Alkefjellet did not disappoint. They buzzed overhead like bees around a hive, diving to and from the cliffs in an endless flurry of activity. As we neared the northern cliffs, we spotted two Arctic foxes scampering along the slopes in search of food, providing endless entertainment.

Then, just as we were preparing to head back, the captain radioed from the bridge to report a group of beluga whales passing through the strait. The Zodiacs quickly lined up, and we were treated to several sightings of these curious white whales as they surfaced in the shallow waters beneath the cliffs.

After a mammoth 3.5-hour Zodiac cruise, we finally returned to the vessel, ready for dinner. As we entered the dining room, many of us thanked the chefs and crew for delaying the meal and allowing us the opportunity to enjoy such a spectacular Arctic afternoon.

After dinner, we gathered in the lounge for our delayed recap before eventually retreating to our cabins, weary but exhilarated after another incredible day here in Svalbard.

We’ve really made it far north! It almost doesn’t feel real. The legendary group of islands known as the “Seven Islands” — the northernmost landmasses belonging to the Svalbard archipelago. One glance through binoculars, or even out of the window, was enough to feel the difference. No tundra, no flowers, no moss-covered slopes — only massive boulders and bare rock, lightly coated with a velvet layer of lichen.

The weather was beautiful: the sun was shining and a light breeze was blowing. Perfect conditions for a landing on Phippsøya.

Ortelius slowed down and gradually approached the strait separating Phippsøya from its neighbour, Martensøya. Members of the expedition team gathered on the bridge and scanned the shoreline through binoculars to make sure no polar bears were roaming around and that a landing would be safe. But then one of the guides spotted something suspicious near the water, in a snowfield on Martensøya! All binoculars and spotting scopes immediately turned in that direction. And indeed — a bear! What a nuisance! Well, as the Americans say, you can make lemonade out of lemons. We would figure something out.

The bear was lying in the snow, fast asleep, occasionally moving its paws. It seemed that today’s weather was uncomfortably hot for it, and in an attempt to cool down it had sprawled out on the snow, barely even lifting its head. It would have been nice to get a closer look, but the strait was too narrow — Ortelius would run aground. So, what now?

Of course, there could be no question of a shore landing. It was decided to do a Zodiac cruise instead. Once the boats were launched, we gathered on the open deck and, in groups of ten, took our places in the Zodiacs. As soon as all the boats were filled and only our hotel manager Vova remained on deck, we set off. The Zodiacs formed a long line and moved at minimum speed, one after another, towards the bear. The expedition leader kept measuring the distance with a rangefinder to ensure we did not get too close and break the rules.

The bear paid no attention to us at all, occasionally lifting its head lazily, only to bury it back in the snow again. Meanwhile, we kept pressing the shutter buttons on our cameras and focusing our binoculars on the animal. Only from time to time, when a Zodiac’s position was unfavourable and the sun was directly behind the bear, making the lighting poor and unflattering, did we pause and look around at the surrounding scenery.

The main surprise, however, was still ahead of us. Soon we noticed another bear coming down the slope from behind a cape, moving in our direction! We spotted it from a distance — it was slowly descending a snowy ridge, then, as if deciding to have a bit of fun, it simply flopped onto the snow and slid downhill, after which it got up, shook itself off, and continued walking along the shore.

It soon became clear to everyone that this was not a male bear, but a female. Our guides, highly experienced in observing polar bears, quickly clarified this.

The female did not engage with the sleeping male in the snow and, as soon as she detected him, she turned away and kept a respectful distance.

It soon became clear what had attracted these formidable northern predators. A couple of hundred metres away on the shore, almost at the water’s edge, lay the carcass of a walrus. Polar bears do not shy away from carrion; at the same time, they cannot hunt adult walruses because of their dangerous tusks and enormous size. But when a walrus dies, it becomes a feast. The male sleeping in the snow had apparently already eaten his fill and was now slowly digesting his meal.

The female approached the carcass, tasted it, then tore off a piece of flesh with her teeth, dragged it aside, and began to eat.

Apparently, the dead walrus did not impress her much, and so she moved onto a headland, entered the water, and swam across the strait towards Phippsøya.

We, after having watched the bears, made a small detour along the coast of the nearest bay on Phippsøya and then returned to the ship, as it was time for lunch.

While we were eating, Ortelius set course south toward Chermsideøya, where an afternoon landing was planned.

When the anchor chain stopped rattling and the ship came to a standstill, we boarded the Zodiacs and sped toward the shore. The ride was not short — a good five minutes each way.

On the sandy beach, strewn with driftwood and, unfortunately, plastic, the expedition team was waiting for us. We split into three groups.

The long hikers set off to climb a nearby mountain, the medium hikers walked along the shore to gain elevation a bit further on, and the leisurely hikers slowly wandered along the beach, enjoying the scenery and picking up plastic litter scattered on the ground, thereby helping the Arctic environment.

A few hours later, tired but happy, everyone returned to the landing site. It was time to head back to Ortelius for dinner, to sort through hundreds of new photos, and to rest. Tomorrow — another exciting day. Ahoy!

The day began under flawless Arctic conditions as Ortelius sailed deep into Liefdefjorden. Clear blue skies stretched across the horizon, and the calm sea created perfect mirror-like reflections of the surrounding mountains. With hardly a ripple disturbing the water, guests gathered on deck to enjoy one of those rare Svalbard mornings when the landscape seemed almost impossibly serene.

The first destination of the day was the spectacular Monacobreen glacier, one of the most impressive tidewater glaciers in the region. As the ship approached the glacier front, signs of Arctic wildlife quickly appeared. Several Bearded Seals rested comfortably on drifting ice floes, seemingly unbothered by the vessel's presence. Black-legged Kittiwakes dotted the ice, while Common Eiders and Black Guillemots paddled through the calm waters between the floating bergs.

Once the Zodiacs were launched, guests headed out for a closer look at Monacobreen's towering ice face. However, the first stop was another bearded seal hauled out resting on an ice floe, as it relaxed unbothered by the zodiacs. Guests were able to observe the red staining to the face, common to the animals foraging in the iron-rich sediments in Liefdefjorden. The glacier's brilliant blue crevasses and heavily fractured front revealed a landscape in constant motion. Throughout the zodiac cruise, the glacier regularly reminded everyone of its power as chunks of ice calved from the face, crashing into the fjord below, sending waves rolling across the water. The water was littered with ice from the glacier, some pieces crystal clear, others dirty with sediment picked up by the glacier. The range of shades of blue in the ice kept everyone’s cameras clicking.

Wildlife was abundant throughout the morning. Black-legged Kittiwakes rested on scattered ice floes in huge numbers between feeding trips to the glacier front. Several Arctic Skuas patrolled overhead or perched up on ice floes looking for opportunities to harass the kittiwakes in an effort to steal food. A second Bearded Seal suddenly appeared and spent time lazily bobbing on the surface of the icy waters, showing off his resplendent whiskers.

One of the highlights of the morning came when several small groups of Beluga were discovered feeding along the glacier front. Their white bodies were clearly visible as they broke the surface moving through the water. Above them, clouds of Kittiwakes swirled and dived, taking advantage of the same concentrations of food being pushed to the surface by the upwelling of subglacial water.

As if the morning had not already delivered enough wildlife encounters, an unexpected sighting brought excitement to every Zodiac. Resting on a small ice floe in the middle of the fjord was a young Polar Bear. Not long independent, judging by its size, it lay sleeping on an ice floe not much larger than itself while slowly drifting in the current. It offered guests a memorable opportunity to observe the Arctic's apex predator in its natural habitat.

Following the wildlife-filled morning, the ship repositioned during lunch to Texas Bar, one of Svalbard's most famous historic trapping cabins built by the Nois family of trappers in 1927. Under continued sunshine and remarkably calm conditions, guests were able to choose from a variety of hiking distances ashore.

The expedition team offered a challenging, long hike for those eager to explore further into and higher up in the surrounding landscape. Two medium hikes were offered as well; one tailored towards photography enthusiasts and a second for those wanting more of a leg stretch, but with plenty of time to take in the breathtaking scenery as well.

And of course, a leisurely walk for guests who preferred a relaxed slower pace and time to observe and reflect was organized as well.

With no wind and high temperatures for Arctic standards, conditions could hardly have been better for exploring and enjoying.

The historic cabin itself attracted plenty of attention. Inside, visitors discovered the eclectic collection of drinks traditionally left behind by travelers over the years, creating a unique and ever-changing display that has become part of Texas Bar's character and charm.

The tundra surrounding the cabin was alive with color. Purple and Tufted Saxifrage were in flower, adding vibrant patches of color to the rocky landscape. Equally striking were the countless fluffy seed heads of Mountain Avens, remnants from the previous summer that still covered large areas of the ground.

Wildlife sightings continued throughout the afternoon. A pair of Arctic Foxes delighted the photographers as they moved across the rocky slopes and tundra, while both the prized King Eiders and the more numerous Common Eiders were observed in the fjord offshore. Behind the cabin, a pair of Arctic Skuas were clearly beginning to establish a nesting territory. Meanwhile, the singing Snow Buntings provided a contrasting soundtrack to the afternoon, accompanied by the occasional pair of Pink-footed geese flying overhead.

Back at the landing site by late afternoon, many guests chose to participate in one of expedition cruising's most memorable traditions: the polar plunge. Cheers and laughter echoed across the shoreline as brave participants ran into the frigid Arctic waters before making a rapid return to dry land and dry towels.

As if the day had not already provided enough memorable moments, the afternoon concluded with a surprise wedding proposal. Against the backdrop of Svalbard's dramatic wilderness, one guest got down on one knee and popped a question that was met with an enthusiastic "yes." Fellow travelers and expedition staff celebrated the happy couple, adding a deeply personal and unforgettable moment to an already remarkable day.

As the ship departed Texas Bar and continued its voyage through the Arctic wilderness, the evening recaps given by expedition guides on glaciology and Arctic Foxes allowed guests to reflect on a day that perfectly captured the magic of expedition cruising in Svalbard. Spectacular scenery, exceptional wildlife encounters, fascinating history, and unforgettable personal memories had combined created a day that only few would soon forget.

This morning, Ali let us sleep in a bit. A late wake-up call at 07:45 allowed us to catch up on some well-deserved rest after a couple of intense, but fantastic activity days. Ali informed us that we would soon enter the pack ice of the Arctic Ocean and that all staff would be scouting for mayonnaise-colored fluffy animals.

During breakfast, we could feel the moment we started sailing through the ice as the ship sometimes vibrated while colliding with some larger ice floes.

After breakfast we made our way to the outside decks to witness with our own eyes the surreal vastness of the Arctic ice stretching all the way to the horizon.

Visibility was good for most of the day, but at times fog banks would limit our views, which offered us small, but welcoming breaks from staring through our binoculars.

While the staff and many of us continued trying to spot a polar bear, Pippa invited us to the lounge for a lecture about this magnificent and resilient animal. We had been very lucky so far with 6 sightings, but of course, we wanted more. Pippa’s lecture was very informative, and she fueled our motivation to find one in the beautiful pack ice even more.

After lunch, some of us decided to have a small power nap, whereas others spent more time out on deck.

At 15:00, Koen held a lecture about photography. Koen discussed different aspects of photography, he talked about what makes for a good photo, but he touched upon the exposure triangle, storytelling and composition as well.

While our tough M/V Ortelius made its way further through the ice, the galley team lit the barbeques. Tonight’s dinner was a true Arctic dinner, and we all enjoyed freshly grilled steak and sausages while having a glass of gluhwein, beer or other refreshment on Ortelius’ helicopter deck. In the meantime, some expedition staff members were still looking out for a bear, but unfortunately, without any luck. Some suspiciously looking pieces of ice were spotted, but none turned out to be a polar bear. Tomorrow we will continue the search… Good night, everyone!

Another day in the mesmerizing pack ice. The wake-up call was at 07:45, but Ali and some staff members were up on the bridge at 06:00 AM already because we were entering the beautiful vast pack ice once again. Our chief officer navigated the ship smoothly through the ice to avoid the ship waking up too early while allowing the team and some guests to continuously scan the ice.

With fog banks coming and going, the visibility changed quite a lot. But at times we could scout very far and a few times our excitement levels increased when we spotted something that had some resemblance to a bear. Unfortunately, it was always a dirty piece of ice, and not the so much wanted polar bear.

At some point we did notice an ice floe with an old seal carcass on it and not too far away we saw another ice floe with blood trails and a seal skeleton on it. There was no meat or blubber left whatsoever so the bear that had made the kill had filled its stomach well. We didn’t spot the successful hunter, but it was very clear we were in polar bear territory by seeing this gory scene.

For the bird lovers it was fantastic as there were two ivory gulls on the carcass picking out the last bits and pieces from the bones. Ivory gulls are not often seen, but since they are scavenger hunters, they are frequently on and around carcasses in the pack ice. The scene offered great photo opportunities.

At 11:00 we ran out of time, and the captain commanded the bridge officers to set course towards Longyearbyen. We loved being in the sea ice so much that we could easily have stayed another day or two but missing our flights home was unfortunately not an option. Ortelius made its way back top open water and started speeding up.

While sailing out we saw some distant whale blows while a pod of White Beaked dolphins was spotted as well. Later a blue whale was spotted, the largest animal to have ever lived on our planet. When it went down for a dive it showed its massive fluke and we were all watching in awe. What a fantastic sight!

In the afternoon Sasha shared with us amazing stories about his time in the ghost town of Pyramiden where he was the so-called keeper of this abandoned Russian settlement for a period of 5 years. Sasha surely had some fantastic anecdotes to which we all listened with great attention.

Time flies when you’re having fun and after a week full of adventure, fantastic hikes, zodiac cruises and wildlife, our last evening onboard began. Ali invited us to the bar for our so-called Captain’s Cocktail during which we toasted the trip together with the captain, the hotel managers and the expedition team. Claudio had made a fantastic slide show which was shown at the end and right before dinner. It was a wonderful video and a beautiful memory to take home with us.

After dinner we enjoyed the outside scenery while the ship steadily made its way back to Longyearbyen. What a fantastic trip it has been!

At 07:15 we enjoyed listening to Ali’s voice one more time while she did the final wake-up call. We felt somewhat melancholic that our adventure was really ending today, but we also felt grateful and happy for the unforgettable week we had in Svalbard and the pack ice. With 6 polar bears, many foxes, reindeer, belugas, walrus and all the bird species, we had seen all animal species we could have wished for. That combined with fantastic weather, stunning scenery and landscapes, and all we could do was simply just smile.

We enjoyed our last breakfast onboard before saying our thank you’s and goodbyes to the wonderful hotel crew. Once the buses had arrived, we made our way to the gangway where the expedition team had gathered to wish us a safe and pleasant journey onwards. We identified our luggage and then looked at Ortelius one more time before driving off.

We came on board as strangers, but during our amazing week we made many new friends and it was not easy saying goodbye.

Hopefully we’ll meet again onboard one of Oceanwide’s ships for another unforgettable adventure. Goodbye everyone, thank you for everything!

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1038 nautical miles

Most northern point sailed: 81°31.61 N, 017°48.10 E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Ernesto Barria, Expedition Leader Ali Liddle, Hotel Manager Volodymir Cherdnychenko and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure and a privilege travelling with you.

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team Sasha, Claudio, Mark, Dr. Marieke, Ali, George, Pippa, Marco, Koen and Allan.