HDS29-25, trip log, Falkland Islands - South Georgia - Elephant Island - Antarctica - Polar Circle

Our adventure started in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world that is nestled between towering mountains and the infamous Beagle Channel. Having travelled from all over the world, we eagerly boarded Hondius, our state-of-the-art expedition ship and new home for the next ten days.

Welcoming us onboard was the expedition and hotel teams that guided us to our cabins and helped familiarize us with our new surroundings, this was followed by our mandatory safety briefing which was held in the lounge, accompanied with a lifejacket demonstration and lifeboat introduction.

As Hondius slowly moved off the berth, it pirouetted in a South Easterly direction and started to sail along the 150 mile / 240 km Beagle Channel. During this time, we once again gathered in the lounge for our Captains welcome onboard introduction, accompanied with a customary toast to our forthcoming adventure.

We were then introduced to Pippa, our Expedition Leader and her team of expedition guides who informed us of their specialty subjects of interest / knowledge and their collective love for the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and the Antarctic region.

We ended the day with a buffet dinner in the restaurant and a beautiful evening outside on the bow and open decks. As we continued to sail towards the open ocean we were greeted by our first glimpses of albatross and petrels. A perfect start to our expedition – our Antarctic dream was finally a reality.

A day at sea ahead of us until we reach the Falkland Islands/las Malvinas!

This morning we woke up by the wakeup call from our Expeditionleader Pippa at 07:15. As the sea was quite calm and most of us were happy and healthy and not tortured by seasickness, we were enjoying the breakfast buffet.

Shortly afterwards we were all called to join Pippa at the observation lounge for the mandatory IAATO and Zodiac Briefing. We learned a lot about where we are going, what kind of rules we should follow and how to behave in this special and pristine environment. We also learned a lot about safety and how to enter and leave the Zodiacs in the best way and got excited about practicing the “Sailors Grip”.

At 10:45 it was time again to learn something new!

Expedition guide Lucia gave her interseting lecture about the wonderful world of Penguins which left us with excitement to meet these amazing animals soon.

At 12:00 we were called by decks down to the Zodiac boarding area where we collected our Muck Boots. The perfect footwear for our expedition activities!

Just half an hour later it was lunchtime and afterwards at 13:45 the fun continued with Biosecurity!

Again we were called by decks down to Deck 3 where the Expeditionsteam waited for us , armed with brushes, Paperclips and vacuums to help clean and prepare our gear, waterproof layers, hats, gloves, backpacks, hikingpoles etc., so that we would be ready to go out to explore the Falklands on the next day.

Meanwhile our diveteam gave their Briefing for their first diving adventure.

Afterwards some of us were spending some time now on the outer decks as the sun was shining, to spot some wildlife, seabirds like Black browed Albatross, southern giant Petrels and Shearwaters. Others were using the time to read and learn or just to chat with a new friend.

Also a good opportunity to talk and chat to some of the expedition guides and ask some questions about the following days, the program, favorite places etc.

At 16:00 it was then time for another lecture given by Expedition guide Juan called an Introduction to phone photography, where we learned how best to use our camera phones to capture images on our polar expedition. Now we were even more excited to finaly get there and make our first visit to these remote places!

At 18:15 we all met in the observation lounge for our daily Re-cap. We heard what the Plan for our first day in the Flakland Islands would be like, where we would exactly go and what we could expect to see. And, of course what the weather, more exactly the wind, would be like.

Tomorrow we will be there and for many of us a long dreamed dream will come true! Our Expedition starts!

Here comes the first truly expeditionary day of our journey. The weather, remaining clear and sunny, still had a surprise in store for us — one that could also be considered a kind of baptism by fire: a strong wind had risen overnight. Even though the bay where we had planned to land was fairly well sheltered, we could still feel powerful gusts. The flag at the bow of the Hondius, which had barely fluttered the day before, was now being violently torn by the wind, ready to break free and fly away.

After breakfast, the Zodiacs were lowered into the water, and our expedition team went ashore to make preparations for the landing. Shortly after that, we were given the "green light," and we hurried to take our places in the Zodiacs.

Sprayed with salty sea water, we successfully reached the shore, where, after receiving instructions and words of guidance from Pippa and placing our life jackets into a huge white bag, we set off to explore this marvelous land.

The path led uphill to the other side of the island. To our left, dense thickets of gorse grew, making the landscape resemble Scotland, while to our right lay a field where Upland geese roamed. Soon, the gorse thickets ended, and we found ourselves on a plateau.

As we continued forward, we soon reached a steep cliff. Below, enormous waves raged, sending plumes of spray into the sky, and the sheer slopes of the cliff were inhabited by the local residents — Black-browed albatrosses, Rockhopper penguins, and Shags. The adult albatrosses were hardly visible, as they were soaring somewhere over the ocean, hunting for squid and fish, while their chicks waited for them in the nests. It was amusing to watch them — still not fully fledged, partly covered in gray down, they sat in their nests observing their surroundings, occasionally standing up on their feet and stretching their wings.

Here and there, small groups of Rockhopper penguins could be seen. They stood motionless, going through the exhausting process of molting — shedding their old feathers while growing new ones. Skuas circled overhead, and Shags darted back and forth.

Time flew by unnoticed, and soon it was time to return to the ship, where lunch awaited us. A pleasant surprise was the appearance of Dusky dolphins, which accompanied our Zodiacs on the way back.

While we were having lunch, the Hondius moved to a neighboring bay, where another landing was planned. Wind, dolphins, a sandy beach — the adventure continues!

Once ashore and freed from our life jackets, we set off along the trail. The walk was much longer than in the morning, and at one point, the path split, forcing us to choose — climb up to the cliffs to observe the albatrosses or descend to another beach to watch the penguins. Naturally, many of us decided to do both, as time was on our side.

Gentoo penguins roamed the beach, and among them, every now and then, Magellanic penguins could be spotted. Some of us were lucky enough to see Commerson’s dolphins playing in the waves near the shore.

Whether it felt long or short, our time on the beach eventually came to an end, and it was time to return to the ship. This was only the first day — a long journey still lies ahead.

The day began early as our expedition leader, Pippa, gently roused us from sleep at 6:45 AM. The golden morning light spilled through the portholes, promising a beautiful day ahead. After a hearty breakfast, we eagerly donned our layers, ready for our adventure into Stanley, the charming capital of the Falkland Islands. Boarding the zodiacs, we glided over the shimmering waters towards the town, the cool sea breeze invigorating us for the day ahead.

Arriving in Stanley, we were immediately captivated by its quaint British charm. Colorful houses with neatly trimmed gardens lined the waterfront, their tin roofs gleaming in the sunlight. The town, home to just over 2,000 residents, felt like a step back in time—peaceful, yet rich with history. We wandered along Ross Road, taking in the sights: the grand Christ Church Cathedral, the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world, with its striking whalebone arch standing proudly outside, a testament to the region’s deep connection to the sea.

As we explored further, we stopped at the Falkland Islands Museum, where we delved into the islands’ past—stories of early settlers, whaling expeditions, and the Falklands War of 1982. The museum’s displays of maritime relics, artifacts from the war, and everyday objects from island life painted a vivid picture of Stanley’s resilience. Walking along the harbor, we admired the memorials honoring those who had fought in the war, standing as poignant reminders of the struggles this quiet town had endured.

The morning slipped away as we soaked in the unique atmosphere of Stanley, and soon it was time to return to the ship. After a delicious lunch, we gathered in the lecture hall for an insightful talk by Andi on whale identification in the Southern Ocean. With stunning visuals and expert knowledge, she taught us how to recognize the most common whale species in these waters, from the majestic humpback to the elusive blue whale.

Following this, our dive group leader, Michael, shared his personal experiences from the Falklands War, offering a deeply moving and personal perspective on the conflict. His stories transported us back to the tense days of the 1980s, giving us a newfound appreciation for the history we had walked through that very morning.

Later in the evening, Pippa briefed us on the plans for our upcoming sea day, and we enjoyed engaging recaps on penguins and giant petrels from Lucia and Meike. Their enthusiasm for these remarkable seabirds was infectious, and we left the session feeling even more connected to the wildlife surrounding us.

As the day drew to a close, we gathered for a sumptuous plated dinner, sharing stories and laughter. Outside, the sky transformed into a breathtaking palette of pinks and oranges, casting a golden glow over the endless ocean. We stood on deck, watching the sun dip below the horizon, savoring the magic of another unforgettable day in the Southern Ocean.

The day started calm and serene at sea, with around 20 knots of light winds and sunshine greeting us on the first sea day toward South Georgia. After a hearty breakfast, we gathered for the mandatory South Georgia briefing with Pippa. During the session, we learned about what to expect upon arrival, how to behave in the sensitive environment, and the steps we could take to protect the unique island ecosystem we were about to visit.

Later in the morning, we enjoyed an engaging talk by Maike, who shared insights into the life of the albatross. As Maike spoke, we were treated to the sight of our first wandering and southern royal albatrosses gracefully gliding around the ship, a reminder of the magnificent wildlife we were soon to encounter. The conversation sparked curiosity and awe, as the albatrosses' remarkable wingspans and long-distance migrations were highlighted, leaving us even more eager for the adventure that lay ahead.

Lunch arrived just in time, offering a perfect opportunity to refuel and recharge before continuing the day's journey. We settled in for an informative lecture from Aitana, the physical oceanographer, who explained the fascinating dynamics of how the ocean moves, providing a deeper understanding of the forces at play beneath the surface.

Following Aitana’s talk, Michael took the stage for a captivating lecture on the legendary explorer Ernest Shackleton. His story, filled with resilience and leadership in the face of adversity, resonated deeply with everyone, especially as we were now sailing through waters that Shackleton himself had navigated on his own remarkable journey.

To wrap up the day, we joined the daily recap with the expedition team. The team discussed the highlights of the day and previewed the exciting experiences yet to come, leaving everyone eager for what lay ahead on this extraordinary voyage toward South Georgia.

After the recap, we enjoyed a sumptuous plated dinner in the restaurant, a delightful treat after a day filled with learning and exploration. With our appetites satisfied, most of us headed up to the lounge for a very interesting documentary about the remarkable discovery of the Endurance in 2022, just shy of three years ago. The documentary provided a gripping look into the history of Shackleton’s ill-fated expedition and the modern-day efforts to locate the ship, all while we enjoyed some popcorn.

Throughout the day, the sea had been alive with activity. Seabirds glided around the ship, the unmistakable spouts of whale blows dotted the horizon, and playful dolphins were seen bow riding alongside the vessel, adding an extra layer of excitement to the journey.

Now, with the day coming to a close, we were ready to head to bed, reflecting on all we had experienced. With the promise of another surprising day at sea ahead, everyone looked forward to the adventures that awaited them on their way to South Georgia.

Today, we continued our voyage across the South Atlantic, making our way from the Falkland/Malvinas Islands toward the rugged and remote shores of South Georgia. The open ocean stretched in every direction, a deep, endless blue under a sky shifting between clouds and patches of light, the ship cutting steadily through the swell as we settled into the rhythm of a full day at sea.

The morning began with a smooth sea state and a steady course set toward our destination. As we settled into the rhythm of the crossing, two engaging lectures filled the morning schedule. The first transported us into the world of Antarctic exploration, recounting the story of Tom Crean, the legendary Irish sailor who played a pivotal role in some of the greatest polar expeditions of the Heroic Age. The second delved into the fascinating world of pinnipeds, the seals that thrive in the frigid waters of the Southern Ocean, offering insight into their adaptations, behaviors, and roles in the ecosystem.

The bridge team announced an exciting sighting: a pod of orcas! We gathered on deck to watch as two adult Type A orcas [playing around us, their distinctive black-and-white markings standing out against the deep blue of the ocean. Accompanying them was a young calf, keeping close to the adults as they moved gracefully through the water. Type A orcas, the largest ecotype found in Antarctic waters, are open-ocean hunters known for their pursuit of minke whales. It was a spectacular moment, a reminder of the incredible wildlife that inhabits these remote seas.

With the orcas gradually disappearing into the distance, we headed inside for lunch, buzzing with excitement over the encounter.

Midday brought an adjustment as we switched over to South Georgia time, shifting our clocks forward by one hour—what was 12:00 quickly became 13:00.

In the afternoon, attention shifted toward our arrival preparations. Biosecurity protocols are a critical part of any landing in South Georgia, ensuring that no invasive species—seeds, insects, or organic material—are inadvertently introduced to this fragile ecosystem. Passengers and crew meticulously checked and cleaned their gear, boots, and outer clothing in anticipation of inspection by the South Georgia authorities.

With everything in order, we moved into the final lecture of the day, an insightful session on the geopolitics of South Georgia—a deep dive into the island’s complex history, territorial significance, and the environmental and political challenges that shape its present and future.

As the evening set in, the ship continued cutting through the swell, the sense of anticipation growing. Soon, we would catch our first glimpses of South Georgia’s dramatic peaks rising from the horizon—a legendary land rich in history, wildlife, and adventure.

South Georgia doesn’t hold back, and today was no exception. We kicked things off with a visit to Grytviken, stepping ashore 100% biosecurity-approved—no seeds, no stray feathers, just fresh boots and eager explorers. Grytviken is where history meets wildlife, with rusting whaling machinery now claimed by fur seals, elephant seals, and king penguins.

From the start, it was a game of dodging wildlife—fur seal pups darting around like overexcited toddlers, elephant seals piled up in sleepy heaps, and king penguins strolling through it all as if they owned the place (which, to be fair, they do). We took a moment to visit Shackleton’s grave, raising a toast to The Boss before exploring the museum, the charming little church, and the remains of the old whaling station.

After lunch onboard, we set off for Godthul, which translates to “Good Cove,” though it felt more like Fur Seal Central. The place was packed. Pups wrestled in the grass, while adults lounged on the rocks, lazily barking at anything that moved. Gentoo penguins huffed their way up steep hills with beaks full of nesting material, looking thoroughly unimpressed with their noisy neighbors. Overhead, giant petrels soared, their wide wings slicing through the sky as they watched the chaos below.

A short hike through the tussock grass gave us a stunning view of the bay, the water so calm it barely seemed real. The way back to the zodiacs involved some careful maneuvering around fur seals who had mysteriously appeared right in our path—just a reminder that here, we’re the guests.

By the time we climbed back aboard, we were windswept, salty, and grinning. South Georgia is wild, unpredictable, and absolutely unforgettable—and today, it delivered in style.

Oh, what an early start! The clock had barely struck five when we were awakened by Pippa. But there was no other choice — South Georgia’s weather sets its own rules, and we have no option but to adapt. The first activity of the day was scheduled much earlier than usual so that we could return to the ship before the weather started to deteriorate. So, after a quick coffee, we hurried to get dressed and head to the shore of St. Andrews Bay. It must be said that St. Andrews Bay is perhaps the most legendary place in all of South Georgia. It is home to the largest colony of king penguins on the entire island — possibly even in the world.

Half of us went straight to the shore, while the other half boarded the Zodiacs for a Zodiac cruise along the coastline of the bay. Large waves rolled gently toward the shore, lifting and lowering our boats. We followed the shoreline, gazing at countless amount of penguins, among which we occasionally spotted a Fur seal or an Elephant seal pup.

In some places, especially on the northern headland — a rocky cliff — hundreds of penguins stood hesitantly, staring at the water, mustering the courage to take the plunge and swim off in search of food. Overhead, skuas and giant petrels circled in the sky.

After some time, we all returned to the ship for breakfast, but our morning adventure was far from over. After having meals, those of us who had previously landed on shore set off on a Zodiac cruise, while those who had explored St. Andrews Bay from the water now had the chance to feel solid ground beneath their feet.

On land, in the coastal zone, King penguins wandered about, while groups of young Fur seal pups dashed around playfully. Meanwhile, giant petrels hobbled clumsily, rocking from side to side, startling everyone with their fierce appearance.

A bit further inland, on the grassy plains, female fur seals dozed, occasionally waking up to growl at us in warning.

Of course, everyone wanted to see the penguin colony, but to get there, we had to cover a distance of about one and a half kilometers. Exactly halfway, we encountered an obstacle — a river that had to be crossed by wading through it. Our guides were more than happy to assist us.

After walking a bit further, we had to climb the crest of the glacier’s terminal moraine, and from there, an incredible view of the colony unfolded before us. Thousands upon thousands of penguins filled the vast space, their calls creating a constant, echoing chorus. We stood in awe, mesmerized by this unique sight, reluctant to leave.

However, knowing that the way back was not short, we gradually began making our way toward the landing site.

By the time we returned to the ship, it wasn’t even eleven in the morning, yet it felt as if the day had already stretched far past noon. A long journey lay ahead to the site of our afternoon activity. Taking advantage of the extended break, many of us chose to lie down and rest.

A few hours later, Hondius approached the southeasternmost tip of South Georgia Island. There lay Cooper Bay, which we were about to explore by Zodiacs. The weather was on our side, which was a welcome relief. We took our places in the Zodiacs and set off into the unknown.

Numerous small coves held hidden surprises, astonishing us with their scenic beauty and abundance of wildlife — penguins, Fur seals, and Elephant seals. Some of us were even lucky enough to spot a pair of Light-mantled albatrosses circling in the sky.

The main highlight of this area, however, was the Macaroni penguins. Their colony was perched high on the slope among thick tussock grass, with a well-trodden path leading down to the water — otherwise known as the “penguin highway.” We had the chance to get close to a gathering of Macaroni penguins near the water and take some photos.

For our guides steering the Zodiacs, this was no easy task — the area was full of shallows, and as usual, the waves were quite high. So we made sure not to waste a second. The amusing penguins, with their “gothic” hairstyles, eagerly posed for the cameras.

We returned to the ship rather late and went straight to dinner. How wonderful it was to realize that we still had two full days left on this magical island!

The day began early with a hearty breakfast in the dining room as Hondius sailed along the rugged coastline of South Georgia. Excitement filled the air as we prepared for our morning landing at Gold Harbour, one of the island’s most breathtaking wildlife sites.

Stepping onto the beach, we were immediately immersed in a scene of raw, natural beauty. Thousands of king penguins stood in dense clusters, their golden markings glowing against the grey morning sky. Large elephant seals dozed in the sand, occasionally stirring to engage in loud, blubbery sparring matches, while fur seals darted through the shallows. Giant petrels and skuas patrolled the colony, ever watchful. The towering Bertrab Glacier provided a stunning backdrop, a stark reminder of the icy forces that have shaped this landscape. We spent the morning exploring, taking photographs, and simply soaking in the energy of this wild place.

Back on board, we warmed up over a well-earned lunch as the weather began to take a dramatic turn. The wind picked up, and dark clouds rolled in from the west. The forecast warned of a powerful storm moving in, with gusts reaching up to 80 knots. The original plan had been to explore the historic whaling stations later in the afternoon, but as we sailed closer, it quickly became apparent that conditions were too extreme. The sea was whipped into a frenzy of whitecaps, and visibility dropped as the wind roared through the rigging. With safety as the priority, the decision was made to remain on Hondius and ride out the storm from the relative comfort of the ship.

The afternoon was spent watching the elements unleash their fury outside. The ship rocked with the swells, and waves crashed against the hull, sending spray high into the air. Some of us gathered in the lounge, sharing stories and enjoying the rare chance to witness the Southern Ocean in one of its more unforgiving moods. Others used the time to rest, sort through photos, or attend an impromptu lecture by the expedition team about South Georgia’s whaling history and extreme weather patterns.

As the storm continued into the evening, we came together for the daily recap. The expedition leader reflected on the day’s highlights, from the incredible wildlife encounters at Gold Harbour to the sheer power of the storm that had forced a change of plans. Looking ahead, we discussed the itinerary for the following day—weather permitting, we would attempt another landing, possibly at Fortuna Bay and Salisbury Plain.

With a warm dinner and a sense of awe at the forces of nature we had witnessed, we settled in for the night, grateful for the experiences South Georgia had offered us—both its beauty and its untamed power.

Today marked another incredible day on our South Georgia expedition. The morning started with a bit of movement on the boat, but we were treated to a stunning orange and purple sunrise that softened the rough beginning. As always with South Georgia, the conditions were unpredictable, and we had to adjust our plans. Originally, we had hoped to land at Fortuna Bay, but the conditions proved too "spicy" for a safe shore landing. The swell was particularly challenging, so instead, we made the decision to go zodiac cruising around Fortuna Bay, a necessary "audible" on this ever-changing terrain.

Though we couldn’t land, the zodiac cruise was a spectacular experience. We cruised past the bay, where we spotted an impressive 7,000 king penguin colony along the shore. The swell made for a bouncy ride, but it didn’t detract from the incredible scenes before us. We also encountered a massive iceberg that added to the dramatic landscape. Throughout the cruise, we saw plenty of giant petrels, small pups, and, of course, kings scattered along the shore. The kelp in the water provided an added level of challenge for our zodiac drivers, but it also kept the conditions interesting and the adrenaline high.

As the morning unfolded, conditions began to improve. The sun came out, offering us the perfect opportunity to continue with our expedition journey. We made our way to Salisbury Plain, not expecting much due to the typically challenging conditions for landing. However, to our delight, we managed to land and were soon making our way towards the penguin colony.

The landing itself wasn’t without its difficulties. The shore team encountered a particularly tough fur seal that wasn’t shy about getting in our way. Kudos to Carina and Sid for their quick thinking and effective handling of the situation, ensuring we were all safe.

Once we made it past this protective albeit aggressive seal, we were rewarded with a magnificent sight: a sprawling colony of king penguins basking in the sunshine. Salisbury Plain is home to one of the largest king penguin colonies in South Georgia, with as many as 250,000 birds across the colony at its peak. For all of us, it was sensory overload —penguins everywhere, some with chicks scattered throughout the colony. The atmosphere was electric, with the call of the kings and the sounds of the wild filling the air.

As the day continued, the weather threw us a curveball. A huge hailstorm and rain shower hit us, though it passed as quickly as it arrived. We took it all in stride, with high spirits and a sense of awe at the beauty and rawness of this environment. The zodiac beach departures were a bit tricky, with the swell making it challenging to leave, but the team managed to navigate the waters successfully.

During our zodiac cruise around the colony, we had the rare pleasure of observing fledgling king penguins, a true treat for all. It’s not every day you get to see the future generation of such majestic creatures.

Today was a rare and special day in South Georgia. To tick off Salisbury Plain, Gold Harbour, and St Andrews in one trip is a privilege that not many expeditions get to experience. We were truly fortunate to have the opportunity to see what are often referred to as the "Crown Jewels" of South Georgia.

As we concluded our time in South Georgia and set sail, we were happy to look forward to a well-deserved sea day ahead. With the time change and clocks shifting, it gave everyone a welcomed opportunity for a good sleep, setting us up for the next leg of our journey.

This was a day full of adventure, surprises, and unforgettable wildlife experiences — one for the books!

We were woken up early in the morning when the world largest iceberg A23a appeared on the horizon. Due to a large amount of ice flows we had to navigate through in the darkness, our ship had to slow down. This meant we reached the iceberg A23a in the early morning hours instead of at night, allowing us to see it clearly in the soft light of dawn.

It wasn’t just the iceberg in our view. Our ship was surrounded by many whales. It was really worth waking up early, even though it was supposed to be a sea day, a day to rest.

In the morning, Carina invited us for a lecture about icebergs. Later, Julia gave a talk on medical history. During both lectures, the waves were hitting the windows of the observation lounge. It was quite a sight!

For lunch, we had a fun treat – we could make our own burgers. It was a nice break from the regular meals, and everyone seemed to enjoy it.

The swell was around 2 meters, and by the afternoon, it reached 3 meters. Many of us stood on the bridge, watching the waves crash against the windows and onto outer decks. We also saw wandering albatrosses soaring in the wind, and many prions and diving petrels flying around the ship. It was amazing to watch.

As the waves got bigger, the ship became quieter as many pale faces disappeared in their cabins to rest and sleep through the ship’s movement.

In the afternoon, Pierre gave a lecture about humpback whales. It was interesting to learn more about these incredible creatures. Later, during our recap of the day, we were told about the expedition plans for the next day. We were powering through the storm using two engines hoping to reach South Orkneys by the afternoon of the next day. Aitana then taught us more about waves, Gabi discussed the meaning of albatrosses in poetry, and Sasha answered questions from a question box about how the ship works, the life of the guides and crew, and even about George’s beard!

Even though it was a sea day, it turned out to be an exciting day. We saw the largest iceberg in the world, were surrounded by whales, and learned a lot of new things. The movement of the ship and the waves made everything feel more adventurous. It was definitely a day to remember.

The day began with calmer seas compared to the previous night, and everyone on board was visibly relieved. The atmosphere was lively at breakfast, with more faces around the table and people chatting excitedly about our navigation towards the South Orkney Islands, which had just started to appear on the horizon.

After breakfast, we gathered for a lecture on Icebergs with Carina. It was a fascinating session, especially as we started to see huge icebergs floating in the distance, which we learned had originated from the Weddell Sea. The sight of them added a sense of wonder to the information we were absorbing.

Next, Lucia and Andi took over with a cooperative lecture about krill. We learned so much about the intricate world of plankton and krill, and their essential role in the ecosystem. However, they struggled to finish the lecture as we were frequently interrupted by the incredible wildlife around us. Whales were spotted all around the ship, penguins were darting through the water, and the perfect weather only added to the distraction. Deciding to pause, they encouraged us to head outside to enjoy the approach to the South Orkney Islands.

As we gathered on deck, we could see the Orcadas Argentine Base clearly from the ship. The sight of it, along with the gorgeous landscape, was absolutely breathtaking. After lunch, we anticipated an expedition afternoon, and soon enough, Pippa called for us to prepare for a zodiac cruise in Signy Cove, a sheltered bay on the island where the British research station, BASE H, is located.

The Zodiac ride was an absolute highlight. It was thrilling as we zipped across the water, closely observing chinstrap penguins on the rocks, along with elephant seals and fur seals lounging on the shore. It was a surreal experience, especially as the people from the research station came out to welcome us. We were informed that this was the first time this season that the Hondius had been able to approach the Orkneys due to ice and weather conditions, making us feel incredibly fortunate to be there in such perfect weather.

The day ended with a sense of gratitude for the rare opportunity we had to explore such a remote and beautiful part of the world. The wildlife, the icebergs, the lectures, and the zodiac cruise all combined for an unforgettable experience.

Feeling truly lucky and inspired.

After returning aboard, we gathered for the daily recap with the expedition team. During this time, we learned about tomorrow’s plans: we’ll be heading to Elephant Island! The excitement among everyone was palpable, as Elephant Island is such an iconic location. The weather forecast looks promising, so we’re all keeping our fingers crossed for a smooth and memorable visit.

Dinner in the dining room was delicious, and to top off the day, we had our first movie night! Of course, we watched Happy Feet — the perfect choice for the occasion, with plenty of popcorn to go around. The cozy atmosphere made for a lovely end to a day filled with adventure and discovery.

Now, we’re ready to head to bed, feeling grateful and eager for what tomorrow holds. Another spectacular day of exploration awaits, and we can’t wait to see what Elephant Island has in store for us.

We woke up to the soothing sound of the ship’s hum at 7:45 a.m., courtesy of our expedition leader, Pippa, who stirred us from our rest. The night had been a wild one, with the ship rocking heavily as we navigated through the Southern Ocean, but now, the seas were much calmer. A welcome relief. After breakfast, we gathered in the lounge to listen to Sasha, who gave us a fascinating introduction to the geography of Antarctica. His lecture painted vivid images of towering ice shelves and remote polar landscapes that felt almost unreal, like the stuff of legends.

Soon after, Aitana took over with a lecture on ice—how it forms and evolves in the harsh Antarctic climate. She explained the intricate processes that shape the icebergs, their colossal size and breathtaking beauty, and how they play a crucial role in the global climate system. Her passion for the subject was contagious, and we were all captivated by her in-depth knowledge of this frozen wilderness.

By early afternoon, we were on our way toward Elephant Island. The sun was out, its rays shimmering off the icebergs that surrounded us. We couldn’t help but admire the majestic views—the towering white cliffs, the massive glaciers spilling into the sea, and the surreal hues of blue and green that colored the ice. Soon, the silhouette of Elephant Island appeared in the distance, its jagged peaks looming like ancient guardians of the frozen world. As we approached Point Wild, we caught sight of the famous bust of William Speirs Bruce, standing resolutely against the elements. It was humbling to think about the men who had endured such hardship here in this desolate, unforgiving place.

Although the scene looked serene, we soon learned that the swell was too high to operate the Zodiacs. Disappointment rippled through the group, but the hotel management had a delightful surprise for us. Hot chocolate with rum was served on the bow, where we gathered in the sunshine, the wind playing gently with our hair. With the snow-capped peaks of Elephant Island before us and the taste of warmth filling our senses, it felt like the perfect moment to savor the tranquility of this untouched land.

As the day drew to a close, we sailed on towards our next destination. After the daily briefing, we sat down to another plated dinner, prepared by our talented chef, Bawa. The meal was delicious, as always, and afterward, many of us gathered in the lounge to unwind with popcorn and the classic movie Happy Feet. Laughter echoed in the room as the penguins danced across the screen, a fitting end to a day full of discovery and wonder in the heart of Antarctica.

The day had been full of history, science, and awe-inspiring sights, a perfect blend of education and adventure. We couldn’t wait to see what the next chapter of our journey would bring.

Fifty shades of gray – this expression perfectly described the world that unfolded before our eyes through the portholes and windows of the Hondius, our mighty ship that had almost become our home. Gently rocking on the waves, it slowly advanced through the veil of fog, approaching the location of our morning activity.

The Weddell Sea is the coldest sea in the world, and despite being on its very edge in the Antarctic Sound, the cold could be felt everywhere. Light snow was falling, covering the icy decks with a thin layer. Periodic gusts of wind lifted it into the air, creating small snowstorms, after which a new layer of fine, powdery snow rushed to settle on the exposed horizontal surfaces of our ship.

The world, having lost almost all of its colors, seemed unwelcoming and even somewhat gloomy, despite the fact that it was quite difficult to look at it without sunglasses. Antarctica clearly wasn’t pleased with our arrival, seeing us as unwelcome guests. We, on the other hand, inspired by stories and lectures about the brave polar explorers of the early 20th century, were in a great mood and, jokingly, prepared to repeat their feat and set off to explore the picturesque Kinnes Cove.

While we leisurely finished our morning meal and put on our warmest clothes, our guides were already lowering the Zodiacs on the water. At the appointed hour, just after nine in the morning, we, eagerly anticipating a battle with the forces of nature, lined up to board the Zodiacs and head into the unknown.

Slowly maneuvering between both ice floes and various-sized icebergs, we looked around, trying to spot representatives of the local fauna. A light breeze blew, but combined with the negative temperature, it didn’t feel like a gentle breeze at all. We kept shivering and wrapping ourselves more tightly in our scarves. Our fingers, gripping phones and cameras, froze quite a bit, so from time to time we had to hide our hands in our pockets or sleeves of our down jackets.

But where was the local fauna? Here it is, right on the shore! Our old friends – the Gentoo penguins – had claimed all the coastal rocks. It was astonishing, but these same penguins had been with us on our first expedition day in the Falkland Islands (Malvinas). Incredible how they can exist and even reproduce in such drastically different conditions! We were happy to see the Gentoo penguins, but we were even happier to occasionally spot other penguins we had never seen before – the Adelie penguins! Here and there, among the Gentoo crowds, we could spot these guys. They were slightly smaller, with black beaks and amusing white rings around their eyes that gave their expressions a striking liveliness. Sniping with the lenses of our cameras, we snapped one picture after another.

As we continued along the shore, we unexpectedly discovered another group of our old acquaintances – Fur seals! Resting on the rocks, they dozed, casting sleepy glances at us. Some of them, however, raised their heads proudly and assumed a haughty posture, looking at us with outright disdain: "Well, look who’s come to visit us!" All the Fur seals were adult males. Having finished the mating season on South Georgia, they had abandoned their pregnant mates to their fate and escaped to Antarctica to hang out, sleep, feast on fish and krill, and avoid any family troubles. Shameless, aren’t they!

But then one of our guides radioed us with the news we had all been secretly, let’s admit it, eagerly waiting for: "Leopard seal! Leopard seal in the water!" Our hearts raced with excitement, and we even managed to forget about the cold, so eager were we to see this fierce predator with our own eyes. Pushing through the ice floes and brash ice, we all headed to where the predator had been first spotted. And then, after a few minutes, we leaned over the side, cautiously watching this beast. The huge creature, gracefully arching its body, frolicked in the water, occasionally surfacing to take a breath of fresh air. The curious animal swam up to our Zodiacs, playing with the stream of water created by the propeller. We snapped photos and simply watched the movements of the true ruler of these waters.

Soon came the news that two more leopard seals were sleeping on an ice floe nearby. Indeed, on one of the floes not far from us lay two representatives of this pinniped species. Slowly, as quietly as possible, we literally crept closer to them. After all, this might be the only opportunity to get a good look at these predators. As it turned out, they looked both imposing and amusing at the same time. Every now and then, they would raise their heads and glance around menacingly. At first, the leopard seals remained calm, but soon they began to show that our presence was clearly annoying them. Moving back and forth on the ice floe, they shook their huge heads, flaring their nostrils. There was something almost comical about it – these apex predators looked like nothing more than enormous, toothy caterpillars.

Time passed quickly, and we were thoroughly frozen by then, so returning to the ship became a highly anticipated event. Satisfied with the fruitful morning and our rich photographic "catch," we headed back to warm up with hot chocolate and lunch.

Our afternoon rest was slightly extended: on the way to our afternoon activity, the Hondius encountered a large amount of drifting ice. The captain slowed the ship down and, giving orders in real-time, skillfully navigated between ice floes and enormous tabular icebergs, of which there were many. However, another surprise awaited us – someone from the expedition team spotted large, sharp fins among the waves. Orcas! A whole pod of orcas! The fierce killer whales were clearly preoccupied with something. At the same time, the water surface was teeming with giant petrels, skuas, and other feathered scavengers eager to feast on the flesh of freshly killed prey. We most likely arrived just as the meal was finishing. The orcas had killed a seal, torn its body apart with their sharp teeth, eating all the tastiest bits, while the birds were now happily picking at the leftovers.

When the time passed three in the afternoon, the Hondius finally slowed down. Right ahead, shrouded in clouds above, stood a massive cliff – Brown Bluff. This was the location of our afternoon landing.

The winches of the crane hummed, and soon several Zodiacs were lowered on the water. The members of the expedition team loaded all the necessary equipment into one of them and sped toward the shore to prepare for the landing. We also hurriedly gathered our things and began waiting for our turn to leave the ship and, for the first time since our landing on Salisbury Plain, feel solid ground beneath our feet. It’s worth noting that for many of us, the upcoming landing was of great importance, because it was a continental landing. In other words, Brown Bluff wasn’t one of the numerous islands in the region, but part of the actual continent. In theory, by landing there, one could walk all the way to the South Pole if desired.

In Antarctica, as well as on South Georgia, there are strict regulations, meaning we couldn’t all land on the shore at once. So, some of us went on a small Zodiac cruise with the plan to swap places with the others after a while. The air temperature was no warmer than in the morning, so those sitting in the Zodiacs again, shivering, pulled their hats down almost over their eyes, put on hoods, and tried not to take out their cameras unnecessarily. However, now and then we had no choice but to do so, because there were amusing and photogenic Adelie penguins sitting on the ice floes, and it was simply impossible to pass by without taking a photo.

The main action, however, was unfolding near the shore, opposite the landing site. There, a leopard seal was patrolling the waters, hunting penguins. It was a mesmerizing, though unsettling, sight. Imagine this: a young penguin, recently fledged, happily runs into the water, eager to finally use its wings and swiftly dart through the water, instead of awkwardly waddling along the shore, shifting from foot to foot. But then this vile, bloodthirsty creature appears and grabs the unfortunate penguin with its teeth, locking them in a death grip. The victim's blood turns the water a deep red. Immediately, numerous skuas fly in and begin circling the scene of the kill, hoping to snatch a piece of raw penguin meat while the leopard seal, with all its might, swings its head from side to side, smashing the lifeless body against the water's surface, causing the penguin’s skin to separate from the flesh.

The shore itself was a pebbly beach, overlooked by a massive cliff made of volcanic ash. A multitude of penguins, both Gentoo and Adelie, had occupied the entire area. There were young penguins as well as their tired parents. Some penguins stood motionless, molting. Not the most pleasant time in a penguin's life, but what can you do? The old feathers stuck out in all directions, and in their place, fresh, smooth, black feathers were growing.

The landing took quite a while, and we had plenty of time to admire the natural beauty of this northernmost tip of the White Continent. Of course, we also had enough time to freeze.

Once back on the ship, we spent a long time looking through the photos we had taken throughout the day and sharing our impressions.

The day began early, with the steady hum of Hondius as we sailed through the calm waters of the Antarctic Peninsula. The sun had just begun to rise, casting soft hues of pink and gold over the vast, icy expanse outside. The morning was crisp, and the promise of adventure filled the air as we made our way toward Portal Point.

Breakfast was served in the dining room, offering a warm respite from the chill outside. The smell of freshly brewed coffee and baked goods filled the air.

After breakfast, we gathered in the lounge for our first lecture of the day. Gabi, one of our talented guides, gave an engaging talk on the life and accomplishments of Jackie Ronne, the pioneering American explorer. Her courage and determination in a male-dominated field were inspiring, and Gabi’s deep passion for Ronne’s story made the lecture all the more captivating. We learned about her historic expedition to the Antarctic in the 1940s and the challenges she faced during her journey. Gabi’s presentation was both educational and empowering, setting the perfect tone for the day.

Following Gabi’s lecture, William, took the stage to delve into the story of Roald Amundsen’s successful polar career. William's deep knowledge and vivid storytelling brought Amundsen's journey to life, as we heard about the hardships the Norwegian explorer and his team faced in their quest for the pole. The risks, the preparation, and the triumphant moment when Amundsen reached his goal were discussed in detail, painting a vivid picture of one of the greatest achievements in the history of exploration.

As we were making our way toward Portal Point, we received some sobering news from the Captain. An unfortunate incident had occurred with one of the crew members onboard. The Captain explained that the situation was serious, and the crew member would need to be flown out for medical attention. Plans were already in place for a flight out from King George Island in the coming days. The news was met with a quiet pause, and our thoughts immediately turned to the affected crew member and their well-being. The Captain assured us that the team was doing everything in their power to manage the situation.

After the announcement, the mood on board was subdued, with many people quietly reflecting on the seriousness of the situation. Despite this, life on the ship continued, and the expedition team ensured everything remained on track. A sense of solidarity seemed to hang in the air, as we all realized how fragile and unpredictable life in such a remote part of the world can be.

The rest of the afternoon was spent in relative quiet, with guests either resting in their cabins, reading, or enjoying the scenic views from the observation lounge. The vast, white landscape stretched on endlessly, and some of us found comfort in the stillness, contemplating the remarkable and sometimes unpredictable nature of life in the polar regions.

The day started with a good breakfast. There were eggs and tasty juice. It was a great way to get energy for an exciting day ahead.

The first stop was Halfmoon Island, a small but beautiful place in Antarctica. The island is home to many chinstrap penguins. These penguins are easy to recognize because of the black band under their chin, which looks like a strap—this is how they got their name. Chinstrap penguins are very active and loud. They make a lot of noise, calling to each other all the time. They also waddle around in funny ways, sometimes slipping on the ice. Even though they look cute, they can be aggressive when protecting their nests.

The island was full of penguins, but that also meant there was a lot of penguin poop everywhere! The ground was messy and smelled bad, making it tricky to walk around. But it was still amazing to see so many penguins in their natural home.

Halfmoon Island is also important because it has an Argentinian research station called "Cámara Base." This small station is only used in the summer and helps scientists study the wildlife and climate of Antarctica. It was interesting to see a place where researchers live and work in such a remote and freezing environment.

After spending some time on the island, it was time for a Zodiac cruise. The small boat took us around the island and near the glacier front. The view was stunning—huge ice formations and bright blue water. However, the wind was strong, and the cold air made our faces freeze. Even so, it was a wonderful experience.

Back onboard, it was finally time for lunch. After spending so much time in the cold, eating warm food felt amazing. The ship was cozy, and it was nice to relax for a while.

In the afternoon, another outing was planned. This time, we went on a Zodiac cruise around Edinburgh Hill. The area was rocky and wild, and the waves were strong. But the biggest surprise was waiting for us—a hotel boat giving out hot drinks! Holding a warm cup in the freezing cold was one of the best feelings ever.

Another highlight of this place was the huge basalt columns. These rock formations looked like tall, stacked pillars, almost like a giant had built them. But in reality, they were formed by volcanic activity. When lava cools down very slowly, it cracks into these long, hexagonal shapes. It takes thousands of years for these columns to form, and they are found in only a few places in the world. It was incredible to see them up close.

After exploring, we went back to the ship. The ship then started moving towards King George Island for an important reason—a medical evacuation (medivac) was needed.

Later in the evening, dinner was served. It was another delicious meal, perfect after a long and exciting day. After dinner, it was finally time to rest. Lying in bed, we thought about everything that had happened—the penguins, the ice, the rocks, and the adventures. It was truly a day to remember. Soon, we fell asleep while the ship continued its journey through the dark, icy waters.

We woke up to another sunny day in South Shetland islands, surrounded by blue glaciers. Due to a medical evacuation, we headed to the largest island of the South Shetland Islands, King George Island. Our ship anchored in Ardley Cove, from where we could reach Bsae Bellingshausen and a nearby airport. Flights from King George Island go directly to Punta Arenas in Chile. We called an air ambulance to pick up our crew member and transport him to a hospital in Punta Arenas as quickly as possible.

Human habitation on King George Island is limited to research stations operated by Argentina, Brazil, Chile, China, South Korea, Peru, Poland, Russia, Uruguay, and the United States. While waiting for the air ambulance, we had a chance to step onto the land of King George Island and visit the research village.

Our walk began right next to the Russian Bellingshausen Research Station. We passed by a statue of the Russian Antarctic explorer Fabian von Bellingshausen and a signpost displaying distances to various locations around the world from this remote part of Antarctica. We also had the rare opportunity to visit Trinity Church, the southernmost Eastern Orthodox church and the only church in Antarctica that is permanently staffed by a priest. This visit gave us a glimpse of life in this extraordinary and remote place.

In the afternoon, Sasha shared the story of his adventurous journey to Antarctica. He had travelled there as a guide for one of the Russian bases, flying from Saint Petersburg, via Nairobi, and Cape Town. Sasha is an excellent storyteller with a great sense of humor, and we were captivated by his incredible travel experiences and a state-of-art storytelling skill.

Later in the afternoon, we received a phone call confirming that the air ambulance had landed and was ready to receive the patient. The expedition team swiftly carried out the medical evacuation, carefully transferring the patient from our ship’s hospital to a zodiac. The zodiac transported him to the pebbly beach, where an ambulance was waiting to take him to the plane. Once the air ambulance took off from Teniente Rodolfo Marsh Martin Airport towards Punta Arenas, a new itinerary was planned.

We all gathered on the observation deck for an update on our journey. With maximum speed, we headed back south! The hotel team organized a happy hour to thank everyone for their patience and understanding. We raised our glasses to the health of our evacuated crew member and to our new itinerary as we continued our expedition toward the Antarctic Peninsula.

With renewed energy, we looked forward to the next leg of our Antarctic adventure.

Today, Hondius continues its journey towards the Antarctic Circle, making excellent time. The weather outside is calm, with a grey sky stretching over peaceful waters. A few whales have been spotted along the way, adding to the excitement of our expedition.

After a healthy breakfast, our morning was dedicated to learning. The lounge filled with friendly chatter as everyone gathered for Pippa’s lecture on on the sounds and science of marine mammal acoustics in the ocean. We discovered fascinating facts about the songs and calls of pinnipeds and odontocetes. Sperm whales use clicks—codas for communication and creaks for hunting. Weddell seals have distinct dialects, and the male humpback whale is the only one that sings. One of the most astonishing facts? Humpback whale songs evolve every year, changing globally in a way scientists believe happens through cultural transmission in the Southern Hemisphere. Australian humpbacks lead the way with the Top of the Pops.

After a coffee and tea break, it was time for Nickie’s behind-the-scenes look at wildlife documentary filmmaking. Being part of several productions herself, she shared insights on the complex planning and effort behind capturing the perfect shot—especially underwater. From getting the right permits to dealing with unpredictable wildlife and weather, it’s a process requiring skill, patience, and flexibility. The story of filming the white-spotted Japanese puffer fish building its nest was a reminder that even the best planning still depends on nature’s timing.

The morning flew by, and soon it was time for another highlight—lunch. Chef Bawa and his galley team served up another delicious meal, with Rose and her team ensuring we were well taken care of.

Outside, the scenery was changing. Icebergs loomed closer as we sailed south of Anvers Island towards the Lemaire Channel. As snow began to fall, a breathtaking black-and-white landscape unfolded before us. Captain Ernesto expertly navigated us through the narrow passage, adding to the sense of adventure.

On the other side, we dropped anchor and headed out on our Zodiacs for an afternoon full of surprises. Towering icebergs, fresh snow, and wildlife everywhere—penguins, Weddell seals resting on the ice, and Antarctic terns feeding their young on rocky islands. Kelp gulls perched high on icebergs, scouting the surroundings. Some Zodiacs had a thrilling encounter with humpback whales feeding close by, their sheer size and power leaving us in awe. Meanwhile, a playful mink whale and a fur seal stole the show, chasing each other and spy-hopping near one of the boats. It truly felt like we had stepped into our own wildlife documentary.

Back on board, we gathered for our daily recap and the plan for tomorrow. Ice conditions remain unpredictable, but we are set to cross the Antarctic Circle in the morning—an exciting milestone. Meike wrapped up the day with an interesting talk about animal tongues before dinner. Later, for those still full of energy, Happy Feet 2 played in the lecture room, complete with popcorn.

A fantastic day filled with learning, exploration, and unforgettable wildlife encounters. Tomorrow, the adventure continues!

Early in the morning, just before breakfast, we heard an exciting announcement over the PA system. It was time to cross the Antarctic Polar Circle at 6:30 AM! Everyone was buzzing with excitement as we sailed closer to this incredible milestone. The Polar Circle is an imaginary line that marks the southernmost point where the sun can stay above the horizon for a full 24 hours during summer. Crossing this line means we had entered one of the most remote and extreme parts of the Earth—an experience few people ever get to witness.

For breakfast, we had a variety of tasty options to start the day. There were cereals, eggs, and toast, which everyone enjoyed while the ship made its way through the icy waters. The atmosphere was relaxed, and the crew was busy preparing for the day’s adventures.

As we sailed further into the Polar Circle, the scenery around us became even more stunning. The icebergs towered around the ship, and the landscape was like something out of a dream. The ship glided through the icy waters, offering a glimpse into the beauty of this frozen world. The further south we traveled, the more we could feel the magic of being in such a pristine, untouched place.

Later in the morning, we went on a Zodiac cruise, which was one of the highlights of the day. The Zodiac took us through the ice, and we even made an ice landing. It was an amazing experience to be so close to nature. Behind a massive tabular iceberg, we saw humpback whales feeding, which was truly incredible. The humpback whales were surfacing one after another, using their enormous mouths to take in large quantities of water and krill. This is known as "lunge feeding," and it was fascinating to watch. These gentle giants are known for their long migrations, and seeing them in their natural feeding grounds was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We also spotted minke whales, crabeater seals, and even leopard seals. The wildlife here was amazing, and we felt like we were witnessing something rare and special in this remote region.

After our exciting Zodiac adventure, we returned to the ship just in time for lunch. It was a BBQ on Deck 5 at the aft of the ship. There were all sorts of delicious foods, including meat, chips, salads, and some great desserts. The weather was perfect for an outdoor lunch, and everyone was happy to enjoy the meal with the beautiful view of the icy surroundings.

In the afternoon, we participated in the Polar Circle Crossing Ceremony, which was a fun and memorable experience. The ceremony included kissing a big fish and getting a special stamp to mark the occasion. For those feeling brave, there was also the option to swim in the cold pool, which was filled with ice! It was a challenge, but a lot of people took part, laughing and cheering each other on.

As the day went on, the mood on the ship became more festive. We all gathered outside and danced to music, celebrating our time in this incredible place. After a while, the party moved inside, where we continued to dance and have fun. It was a great way to let loose and enjoy the moment.

Before dinner, there was a recap of the plans for tomorrow, and we got a sneak peek of what was ahead. After a day full of adventure, excitement, and dancing, everyone was tired but happy. The day had been amazing, and we all went to bed with big smiles, looking forward to the next day’s adventures.

Our morning began with a hike up Danco Island, a steady zig zag climb that rewarded us with sweeping views of the bay. From the top, we could see gentoo penguins making their way along well-worn snow trails, icebergs scattered like puzzle pieces across the water, and the crisp Antarctic air stretching endlessly before us. It was a moment to pause and take it all in.

Back on the Zodiacs, the morning only got better. Humpback whales were everywhere, their blows rising in all directions as they surfaced gracefully around us. The sheer number of them was staggering, and for a while, we simply floated, watching these giants move with such ease. Then came the ultimate test of courage—the polar plunge. With water at minus one degree, it was a split-second of hesitation, a deep breath, and then a leap. The shock was instant, the cold nearly unbearable, but the rush of energy afterward is absolutely unbeatable.

The day could have ended there, and it still would have been extraordinary—but Antarctica had other plans.

After lunch, on our way to the Melchior Islands, we spotted something remarkable in the Schollaert Channel. A pod of orcas was interacting with a humpback whale, and within moments, the plan changed. Every Zodiac was dropped, and we lined up on the water, holding our breath as we watched nature unfold in front of us. But what happened next took the experience to another level—they came to us. Several orcas swam right up to the zodiacs, surfacing so close we could see their markings in perfect detail, their eyes just beneath the water’s surface. It was clear they were just as curious about us as we were about them.

It was the kind of wildlife encounter that stays with you for a lifetime—raw, unscripted, and completely humbling. As we finally turned back, the feeling was unanimous: this had been the ultimate ending to an already incredible journey. An epic finale to an extraordinary expedition.

We are on our way back to Ushuaia!

The morning started without a wakeup call so everybody could sleep in a little bit as sleep is very much needed after this fantastic and very active days in antarctica. Thanks to nice weather conditions and the great work from our bridge team it was a smooth sailing day and everybody was rally happy about that.

After breakfast it was time for those who joined the Photo competition to meet with Expedition guides Juan and Matt in the library to give them our Pictures and hope to win in one or more of the three categories which were wildlife, landscapes and comedy.

At 10:00 Expedition guide Aitana gave a lecture called does the planet have a heart, about her job as an oceanographer here in the south. Shortly afterwards Expedition guide Hana gave an interesting presentation about Oceanographic research in Antarctica. A morning full of interesting information and again we learned so much.

It was time for lunch then and we all enjoyed the delicious food.

To keep us busy the Expedition team asked us after lunch to Deck 3 where they collected our Muckboots, red bags and rental gear. We just had time to get a cup of tea or coffee until the next lecture started. This time Expedition guide Gabi gave us a very interesting presentation about Sir Francis Drake, the Explorer by whom the waters were named we were sailing through. Exactly as interesting as Piers Presentation about the International Whaling Comission which followed at 16:30.

Afterward some of us spended some time on the outer decks to get some fresh air or to spot wildlife, others were just having a cup of tea and chatting to new friends, or watching the selection of Photos for the photocompetition and gave up their vote.

At 18:15 it was time for our daily Recap. Expedition leader Pippa told us about the plans for tomorrow, our last day at sea. Also Hotelmanager Ingrid gave us a lot of important and helpful information for our disembarkation day.

After another delicious dinner we all met at the observation lounge for the final decision of the Photo competition. Great fun!!!!

But the day wasn’t over yet! The Expedition team organized a Quiz night so the fun continued and a lot of us could proof their new gained knowledge. All in all a successful day at sea.

Our final day at sea it seems to be!

Our dear fellow passenger whom I will not disclose the name woke us up with an energetic and certainly creative wake up call after winning the auction a few days ago. Their words sweet and full of emotion recalling the past twenty or so days together on this beautiful voyage.

Lucia started the day of lecture by talking to us about the homeland Argentina, along with Juan the two make for our Argentine contingency and have shared with us their stories and rich culture. After the lecture she even introduced us to this typical Argentine drink, Mate.

Soon after the diving team were generous enough to share with us tales of their adventures. They have been alongside us, braving the bitterly cold waters of the southern Atlantic, sometimes below 0, since the beginning of the trip. We heard so much of all their wonderful underwater sightings and now was time for them to show us what they captured.

Who would have guessed the amount of life ! the list is endless, but the most impressive were the dolphins at New Island and the schools of penguins bulleting by in various locations.

After lunch George gave us a speculative future history of Antarctica, combining what we know today to what is likely to happen as the challenges grow and pressure builds for antarctica. His knowledge has been truly fascinating and his oral skills a joy to listen to.

Later it was time for us to say our official goodbyes, Captain Ernesto joined us in the observation lounge and held a speech thanking us for a formidable trip and wished us farewell. It was then Pippas turn to welcome all her guide team on stage for a well-deserved thunderous round of applause. Thay have work so hard to provide us with the best possible trip.

It was then time for our last dinner, what a drag to have to cook or own food in a few days from now! Bawa regaled us with an exquisite final meal that we all feverishly devoured. Ingrid took centre stage as she called upon all the different departments of the ship for a round of honour under the deafening cheers of the guests!

The evening was spent with a drink and a chat, tears for some, laughs and hugs, heavy hearted as we sailed through the Beagle channel back to Ushuaia.

We heard Pippa’s soft Scottish accent for the final time time for the wakeup call. We put our suitcases outside the cabin at 0730 then made our way to the fabulous buffet breakfast to fill up one more time. What a fantastic trip it has been, far beyond expectations, it was a bitter sweet moment leaving the ship, but we hope to be back one day for another expedition. We said our final goodbyes to the staff and off we went into the big wide world, ready to fend for ourselves.