HDS24-24, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp - free camping, kayaking, snowshoe/hiking, photo workshop, mountaineering

Having traveled from all over the world and explored some of the sights of Ushuaia, we were very excited to walk along the port and see Hondius for the first time. We boarded the ship and began familiarizing ourselves with what would be our home for the next thirteen days. We first had to complete a mandatory safety briefing and drill before we could set sail into the Beagle Channel. We were then invited into the lounge for the Captains Cocktails with drinks and snacks. Here is where we met Captain Ernesto, Hotel Manager William, Expedition Leader George, and the expedition team who would be guiding us on our adventures in Antarctica. We then headed down to the dining room for a buffet dinner. The light was beautiful as we sailed along the Beagle Channel, and after dinner, many of us began looking for wildlife and enjoying the views outside. Many got an early night after many hours or even days of travelling, whilst others socialised in the bar, getting to know the people we would be sharing this new experience with. We ventured to our new cabins with excitement for the days ahead.

Today was the first full day at sea on the Drake Passage! We had some waves during the night which gave us our first experience of the famous Drake Passage! Although some people were seasick, the majority slowly got used to the ships movement. The morning started with the first “good morning, good morning, good morning” wake up call from Expedition Leader George, after which breakfast was served.

At 09: 15 AM, George and Gerry presented the Zodiac and IAATO briefings, We started to feel Antartica closer!!

At 11:00 AM, the mountaineer team gave us the mandatory briefings.

At 12:00 PM, The famous boots! Now, we are almost ready for the action!

Then, the delicious lunch was served between 12.30 and 13.30 PM.

At 14:00 We all attended the kayaking briefing.

At 15:30, We had the camping briefing. After that we knew everything we needed to in order to enjoy the great activities that lay ahead of us!

Juan and Keith held their presentation about polar photography in the observation lounge at 17:00 PM.

George invited us to see the beautiful birds flying around Hondius from the outside decks. An announcement was made and we got the opportunity to see grey headed albatross, black-browed albatross and, usually more difficult to find, a beautiful Magellanic diving petrel.

The day ended with a brief recap of the day from George who told us the plans for tomorrow. Lucia gave us some hints and tips for how to spot and identify birds, and the mountain guides demonstrated how to avoid and safely operate around crevasses.

Afterwards, a plated dinner was served in the dining room. We had completed one sea day on the Drake Passage and were ready for one more, sailing ever closer to our goal of reaching Antarctica.

Our second full day at sea began with another buffet breakfast. We were so lucky to experience another smooth day of sailing in the Drake Passage, a Drake Lake rather than an infamous Drake Shake!

Today was a another busy day preparing for our activities in Antarctica. We began by signing up to the mountaineering, camping, and kayaking opportunities with the guides in the lecture room. We were called in by our color groups but excitingly, we were interrupted by a group of feeding humpback whales. We watched in awe at the huge mammals surfacing, lunge feeding, and even breaching.

Once the sign up session was completed we listened to Lucia’s lecture all about Penguins, which really got us excited for the days ahead. She told us about their evolutionary history, their anatomy and adaptions, and their breeding behaviours.

After lunch, we gathered in the lounge to begin the task of thoroughly cleaning all of our clothing that we would be wearing down on the peninsula. This is a big part of the responsibility we as tourists in Antarctica have to protect the continent from potentially harmful invasive species, pests, or diseases.

Once all the cleaning was done, the hotel department treated us to some ice cream in the longe. Aitana then gave us a fascinating talk about sea ice, ice bergs, and glacial ice.

Inbetween our lectures and sign up activities, we took the chance to watch for wildlife on the bridge and outside. We saw lots of beautiful cape petrels, southern fulmars, and light-mantled albatross.

In the daily recap, we learnt more about the Antarctic Convergence, the humpback whales we had seen in the morning, and about how to put on and walk with snow shoes. We were also excited to hear about the plans for the following day, which would be packed with action.

After two days braving the infamous Drake Passage, we finally arrived at the Antarctic Peninsula, greeted by Petermann Island in the morning. The weather, true to the region’s reputation, presented a serious challenge: thick fog and ice-laden waters made operations difficult from the start.

The plan was for a split landing and Zodiac cruise, but the treacherous conditions had other ideas. Shuttling to the landing site proved so demanding that the Zodiac cruise was scrapped altogether. The first two colour groups that went ashore were able to see gentoo penguins and Adelie penguins on their nests and moving around the site. It was also our first chance to see snowy sheathbills and brown skuas. As some Zodiacs were waiting to come ashore, they spotted a leopard seal which was patrolling the ice flows and ice bergs, and remarkably, they saw it make a kill, catching an unsuspecting penguin.

As the second group prepared to land, shifting ice and safety concerns forced us to cancel the operation entirely.

By the afternoon, conditions improved just enough to allow a Zodiac cruise around the spectacular Hovgaard Island. Here, Antarctica revealed its full majesty: massive, sculpted icebergs framed by dramatic skies, creating a scene that felt almost otherworldly. We spotted a few crabeater seals lounging on the ice and a scattering of penguins adding their charm to the mix. Some boats had a fantastic encounter with a humpback whale.

While the day tested our patience and adaptability, it also offered a reminder of Antarctica’s untamed beauty and unpredictable spirit.

Mountaineering 

Petermann Island sits one nautical mile southwest of Hovgaard Island, both lying in the Wilhelm Archipelago. Our mountaineers ascended to the high point of the island enveloped in an ethereal sea mist. A completely surreal sense of separation from the world around us, except for the busy and purposeful cacophony of the penguin colonies!

Hovgard is located close to the Lemaire Channel, southwest of Booth Island in the Wilhelm Archipelago. A great journey up the long spine of this narrow 3.5-mile-long Island. On this day we experienced very poor visibility known as ‘whiteout’ conditions. Progress in the enveloping mist was only possible with great caution! Our mountain guides navigated the best line of ascent with each team maintaining safe roped up distances in case of hidden crevasses!

Camping night at Dorian Bay / Wiencke Island

We were so excited to be the first group to go camping in this serene environment. The Zodiacs drove close along a big ice wall to get us into the sheltered Dorian Bay. After using the cut-out snow stairs to get us up the banks of the bay, we found ourselves a spot to start digging our pits. Meanwhile, a few penguins decided to check us out from our landing site. Within a few hours, the clouds covering the surrounding mountains started to lift and revealed their peaks. The penguins on the headland across the bay ‘chatted’ us to sleep, while the sky coloured pink for a moment. Around 02:00 we were even briefly greeted by a humpback whale. We had perfect conditions. There we were, all alone, overwhelmed by the silence of this amazing continent. A frosty night which would forever be in our memories.

The day began with a breathtaking view as the group woke up to the icy splendor of Antarctica. The vessel was surrounded by sailing ships, with the historic Port Lockroy visible in the distance. The excitement of starting the day with such a sight was palpable among the travelers. After a hearty breakfast, preparations were made for the day’s adventures.

The first destination was Goudier Island, home to Port Lockroy, a former British research base now serving as a museum and the famous "Penguin Post Office." Upon landing, we were greeted by the fascinating juxtaposition of human history and thriving wildlife. We explored the museum, which offered a glimpse into the life and work of researchers who once operated in this remote environment. The souvenir shop provided a chance to take home mementos of this unique journey, even sending postcards to friends and family from there!

Surrounding the historic buildings were lots of gentoo penguins, their nesting sites adding a lively and endearing charm to the icy landscape. The travelers marveled at the penguins’ antics, taking care to respect the wildlife as they observed the creatures up close.

The adventure continued with a short journey to Jougla Point, just around the corner from Goudier Island but offering a completely different perspective, with a marvelous view of the Seven Sisters mountain. This location featured even more gentoo penguins, many wandering among the visitors with their characteristic waddle. The group was thrilled to spot some chinstrap penguins, rare visitors to the area, adding an exciting highlight to their excursion.

The contrasting landscapes and wildlife at each site left a lasting impression. Goudier Island’s historical significance blended seamlessly with the natural beauty of Jougla Point, providing a day of discovery and awe.

After returning to the ship, we enjoyed a sumptuous lunch and prepared for the next destination: Damoy Point. However, as we approached, the wind began gusting at over 40 knots. For safety reasons, the expedition leader decided to abort the plan. Undeterred, the expedition team quickly pivoted to a new destination, Andvord Bay.

On the way to Andvord Bay, we were treated to an extraordinary surprise: several feeding humpback whales appeared around the ship, putting on a true spectacle. Cameras clicked, and excitement buzzed as the majestic creatures breached and dove in the icy waters.

A couple of hours later, Hondius arrived at a calm and sheltered bay. Here, we embarked on an incredible Zodiac cruise. The serene waters were dotted with ice formations, and the surrounding views were stunning. Penguins could be seen on the ice floes, and more whales graced the travelers with their presence, creating unforgettable moments.

But that was not it! During the cruise we saw a Zodiac with an Oceanwide flag: it was a bar boat! The hotel department had prepared for us a treat serving hot apple cider with Drambuie as we went alongside them.

Returning to the ship in the evening, we gathered at the expedition lounge for the daily recap, where we reflected on the day’s adventures and learned about the plans for tomorrow. The evening concluded with a delicious dinner in the dining room, marking the end of another extraordinary day in Antarctica. There was a shared sense of wonder and gratitude for the experiences of the day. The unique combination of history, wildlife, and stunning Antarctic scenery made for an unforgettable chapter in their expedition.

We had anticipated camping overnight on the Antarctic ice, but the weather had other plans. Heavy snowfall and poor visibility made conditions tricky, and despite the expedition team’s efforts to proceed, they ultimately decided to cancel the operation for safety reasons. Instead, the group spent a warm and cozy night aboard the ship, enjoying a chance to rest and recharge for the adventures ahead. Also, there was an incredible sight that made up for the lack of camping, which was a group of feeding humpback whales along with hundreds of birds very close to our vessel. Everyone looked forward to better weather and more exploration opportunities in the days to come.

Mountaineering

We climbed to a fantastic col high on Jabet Peak in the Comer Range, Wiencke Island, in the Palmer Archipelago. The col stands proud and clearly visible overlooking Port Lockroy, Damoy Point and Dorian Bay. The view from up high is magnificent.

The dulcet tones of Expedition Leader George woke us at 0715 and we found ourselves stationed just a few hundred meters east of Danco Island in the Errera Channel. This island is named after a member of the Belgian Antarctic Expedition in 1898, Emile Danco, who died during the voyage, and is one of the team’s favourite venues.

A short Zodiac ride took half of us ashore while the rest of us cruised along the coast. Gentoo penguins strutted their stuff just meters away from our landing spot, and we were able to observe busy (and smelly!) rookeries positioned at various points up the snowy slope. These incredible birds nest on rocky outcrops up to 200m above sea level, and access their selected spots with penguin highways. We took care not to disturb their movements up and down these highways. Penguins have priority!

Meanwhile, the Zodiac cruisers spotted a humpback whale between Hondius and the shore as well as observing the spectacular mountain and ocean scenery that makes this area of the peninsula so special. Many boats were entertained by penguins jumping on and off the icebergs and Lucia even managed to catch a krill to show everyone.

The weather, which had been warm and foggy with light snow gradually transitioned to clearer, colder and windier conditions. If you don’t like the weather in polar regions, just wait half an hour.

The mountaineers enjoyed a rising counterclockwise ascent to the islands high point. On the summit they marvelled at the 360 full circle view afforded to them by a break in the persistent cloud and mist that accompanied our ascent.

A short transit north over lunch took us to the Orne Islands just north of George’s Point on Rongé Island. We managed to get half the ship onto shore to see the penguins there, but mother nature had other ideas. The swell around the ship, already significant as we embarked for the Zodiac ride to the Island, picked up and up. The decision was made to cease all operations, both site visits and Zodiac cruises, on safety grounds. Everyone was transferred efficiently back to Hondius, though there were quite a few splashes. It’s easy to understand why full waterproofs are required for zodiac operations.

Mother Nature saved the best till the late afternoon though. As we were sailing south to our prospective camping site for the evening in Paradise Harbour, we spotted killer whales off the starboard bow. We were treated to a rare display as these apex predator marine mammals cruised around us and dived under and around the ship for a good thirty minutes.

Another varied and amazing day of expedition antics in Antarctica.

The morning broadcast began at 6:45 AM, with the gentle voice of Expedition Leader George echoing through the ship's announcement system, waking up every passenger in their cabins. A new day had begun, and with it, another Antarctic adventure was about to unfold. Eagerly, we made our way to breakfast.

Breakfast was served from 7:00 to 8:00 AM, and after enjoying a delicious meal, everyone began preparing for the day's activities. The early risers, those who had signed up for the morning mountaineering, gathered at 7:30 AM to get ready for the landing.

The mountaineers were the first to disembark at Neko Harbour, followed by the morning’s landing activities and Zodiac cruises. Today, the weather at Neko Harbour was particularly good, and the kayaking activity also went smoothly. The kayakers had a wonderful time, enjoying the calm waters. Meanwhile, whales appeared near the landing site, allowing everyone to enjoy not only the wildlife on land but also the majestic whales in the water.

The mounteering team enjoyed good snow shoe conditions and good visability.

After the morning activities, lunch was served from 12:30 to 1:30 PM. As everyone happily enjoyed their meal, the ship set sail toward the afternoon activity location, Orne Harbour.

The afternoon activities started at 3:00 PM, and included landing, cruising, and kayaking. The afternoon landing took us once again to the Antarctic continent. We put on our snowshoes and hiked up to the highest point, where we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the Antarctic landscape: glaciers stretching as far as the eye could see, and the habitat of chinstrap penguins. However, as large brash ice began drifting toward the landing site, we were forced to conclude the activities early to avoid being trapped by the ice. Although the abrupt end to the activities was disappointing, it gave us a deeper appreciation of the ever-changing nature of Antarctica's weather. Passengers also enjoyed navigating back through the thick brash ice, it was a fun adventure to get back to the ship.

At 6:15 PM, the expedition leader George gathered everyone in the observation lounge on deck 5 for a review of the day activities and a briefing on the plans for the following day. The team also shared some fascinating insights about Antarctica.

After a brief rest, dinner was served in the form of a buffet. It was a perfect opportunity for everyone to relax, enjoy some delicious food, and share stories about the day's adventures. As the day drew to a close and everyone drifted into a restful sleep, we looked forward to tomorrow, which promised another exciting day of exploration and discovery.

Camping night at Leith Cove / Paradise Bay 

We had to be a little patient before we could ‘dig’ into our camping adventure. The weather hadn’t been in our favour, but the camping team and the bridge managed to finally get us to this beautiful camping spot. We arrived at our own little, private island surrounded by glaciers and overlooking Paradise Bay. The name lived up to its expectations. Even more so when two humpback whales accompanied us while we were dropped off by the Zodiacs. After walking the steep path uphill, we were rewarded with a stunning 360-degree view over the whole area. Due to some wind we all dug comfortable deep ‘bedrooms’ within the perimeter that was set by the camping team. Some of us kept digging to create true ‘villas’. During the whole evening/night the humpback whales kept feeding in the vicinity of the island. When the wind died down you could hear them breath from where we were. Incredible! When were all lying in our pit, the perfect silence was broken a few times by the thundering sound of breaking ice in the glacier behind us. The idea of being here and able to camp was hard to grasp. It really felt like paradise. This was pure Antarctica!

This morning, Foyn Harbour greeted us with an atmospheric white world, a scene so pure it felt like stepping into a snow globe. It was the perfect start for our morning operations at the glaciated archipelago in the northwest of Nansen Island, nestled in the serene Wilhelmina Bay. The landscape, blanketed in snow, was everything you would imagine Antarctica to be—breathtaking, raw, and impossibly beautiful.

We kicked off our exploration with a Zodiac cruise to the wreck of the Governoren, a remnant of whaling history. The rusting hulk of this Norwegian factory ship, once the pride of its day, ran aground here after a disastrous party. After a successful whaling season, a careless flame and a ship loaded with whale oil didn’t mix well, leading to the untimely demise of the Governoren. The story of this wreck felt like a forgotten chapter of maritime adventure, standing silent among the vast, icy expanse.

The day was calm, no wind, just thick snowflakes drifting down to the water’s surface, which slowly formed into pancake ice. The world around us was black and white—snow-covered rocks and Antarctic shags nesting on them, their dark feathers blending seamlessly with nature’s monochrome palette. It was a photographer’s dream, a postcard-perfect moment from every angle.

As we scouted for more wildlife, the fun kept rolling in. We spotted four Adelie penguins perched on a rock, looking like little black-and-white sentinels in the snowy landscape. Antarctic terns and young Antarctic shags floated gracefully by, adding to the wildlife parade. The moment was magical, and as we gathered our Zodiacs together, something even more unexpected happened—an impromptu snowball fight broke out! With snow accumulating on the Zodiacs, we even built a snow doll, creating a scene of pure joy and laughter. Soon enough, the entire group was involved, including the guides, who had no qualms about letting their inner children out to play. It was a wonderful, spontaneous reminder of the childlike wonder that travel can bring.

Back onboard, we were treated to a delightful lunch prepared by Chef Ralf and his incredible galley team. Afterward, we ventured to Portal Point for our afternoon landing. The continental landing and a Zodiac cruise along the northeast part of the Recius Peninsula turned into a snow-covered playground. For the first time on the trip, we were encouraged to sit, slide, and roll in the snow. Expedition Leader George and the mountaineers had created the ultimate snow slope, complete with steps and a rope to help us climb back up. We slid down the hill on our backs, heads, and even flipped through the snow like seals. It was one of those moments that you can only fully appreciate in the moment—laughter echoed across the snowy landscape, it could probably be heard on the ship’s bridge!

We even made a snow cave, with the mountaineering team explaining its use—essentially, a vital shelter in the icy wilderness. Some of us took a nice walk along the expedition team's tracks, which offered views of the massive icebergs floating lazily around the landing site. Each step felt like we were walking through a dream, with the entire world around us glistening in shades of white.

The fun continued back on board with our daily recap hosted by George, with Hotel Manager William sharing the evening's plans. We were in for a treat—a BBQ on the outer decks, complete with complimentary drinks. We indulged in delicious food, took in the fresh air, and danced under the open sky, all while surrounded by the most unreal views you could imagine. But just as the party was in full swing, nature stole the show. A pod of humpback whales was engaged in bubble net feeding right beside the ship! Their massive tails broke the surface, sending up splashes and showing off their acrobatic moves. The birds gathered above, eagerly waiting to feast on the krill that the whales were driving to the surface.

We were so mesmerized by the spectacle of these feeding whales that we stopped dancing and rushed to the bow of the ship, where it felt like we were front-row spectators at a wildlife documentary. The show continued throughout the evening, and it hit us—this wasn’t just a trip. This was living in our own nature film, where the stars of the show were the very animals we had come so far to see.

What a day—a perfect mix of adventure, fun, exploration, and a deep connection with nature. It’s a memory we’ll carry with us for a lifetime.

The Antarctic weather refused to show mercy, and the morning of our last day on the Antarctic Peninsula greeted us with gusty winds, rain mixed with snow, and low stratified clouds hovering over the Hondius. The ship held its position in Charlotte Bay without dropping anchor. Our plans included a Zodiac cruise to try and spot some local wildlife. Honestly, it was quite a challenge to muster the courage to dress up and venture out into the biting wind and wet snow flung at us, all to explore the surroundings on a Zodiac. But after all, it was our last day on the Peninsula, so off we went!

Catching sea spray, we cruised along the coastline and through narrow straits between tiny islands. We also had to manoeuvre around grounded icebergs that seemed to be waiting either to break apart and shower us with chunks of ice or, more entertainingly, to float away on the next tide, continuing their aimless drift. Chinstrap penguins, as if nothing were out of the ordinary, busily darted back and forth, climbing the steep slopes of a small island where their colony perched at the top.

Only as we were heading back did we spot a spout from a humpback whale. Shortly afterward, it gave a tail flick and dived into the depths. But we knew that if we waited a few minutes, it would resurface—and sure enough, it didn’t disappoint. After watching it for a while, we resumed our journey and returned to the Hondius, where lunch was already being served.

After lunch, the weather began to improve slightly. The snow stopped, and tiny patches of blue sky started peeking through breaks in the clouds. Our next destination was Palaver Point, which required us to cross the Gerlache Strait.

Palaver Point turned out to be a picturesque spot, reminiscent of Neko Harbour. Chinstrap penguins had claimed several snow-free patches of the slopes and were already incubating eggs. We had barely landed when a heavy snowstorm rolled in. Visibility dropped to just a few dozen meters, and even the penguins’ calls became muffled, barely reaching us. So much for a pleasant stroll! But the snow ended as abruptly as it began. The weather improved rapidly, and soon a brilliant blue sky stretched above us. That bright, shiny object up there—what’s it called again? It took us a moment, but eventually, we remembered: “the sun.”

Mountaineers tackled the nearest peak, penguins chattered cheerfully, and we simply strolled across the snow, taking in the stunning views.

Those of us who started with a Zodiac cruise returned to shore in complete awe—they had been lucky enough to watch humpback whales. Those of us who began by exploring the shore and were waiting for our turn on the Zodiacs could hardly contain our excitement, anticipating something spectacular. And we weren’t disappointed: the whales hadn’t gone anywhere. On the contrary, they were feeding in one spot, giving us unforgettable moments to witness.

Returning to the ship, we took one last (for this voyage) look at the shores of the Antarctic Peninsula. Tomorrow, it’s the South Shetland Islands. Let’s see what they have in store for us.

Mountaineering

The Mountaineers ascent at Portal Point passed between two shallow sea bays before ascending wide glacial slopes to attain the higher reaches of the peninsula. The significant presence of exposed crevasses (treacherously blanketed and therefore hidden by fresh snow) forced us to turn back. Having the confidence and sensibility to retreat in the face of unacceptable risk is an essential skill of mountaineering.

Blue skies and huge vistas as we ascended to the high point of Palaver Point on Two Hummock Island. Located in the Palmer Archipelago to the west of the Antarctic Peninsula mainland. Our climbing teams enjoyed a rare break in the challenging weather with dry conditions and even some sunshine! A great finish to our expeditionary mountaineering and glacial trekking programmes.

We gathered on Hondius’s multiple decks to take in the spectacle of the entry into Neptune Bellows. Here we were met by the caldera’s narrow width of only 230 meters. What makes the approach even more precarious is Ravn Rock which lies 2.5 meters below the water midway between the steep cliffs. We had no concerns given the expertise of our Captain.

Whaler’s Bay, Deception Island was first utilized as a whaling station by the Norwegians from 1911 until its closing in 1931 as a consequence of the slump in whale oil prices. In 1944 a British base was established by the Royal Navy utilizing three of the abandoned whaling station buildings. In 1945 the base was handed to the Falkland Islands Dependencies Survey, the predecessor of the British Antarctic Survey and commenced its role as a scientific research station. The primary activities were the operation of an air facility to support other British bases on the Peninsula as well as undertaking meteorology.

Much of the abandoned base remains for visitors to explore as we did today. The calm waters of the bay were perceptible by all including the gentoo penguins strolling about the shore and the cape petrels, kelp gulls and skuas patrolling the skies. The area is known to have crabeater, leopard, fur, elephant, and Weddell seals hauling out. We admired some young southern elephant seals that were molting on the beach. A number of blue-eye shags flew over the area and chinstrap penguins are also known to inhabit the caldera along with the snowy sheathbill. There was also the option to walk up to the viewpoint called Neptune’s Window.

Whilst some passengers were landing, the others took an exciting Zodiac cruise along the cliffs to see the nesting birds and out into Neptune’s Bellows to see the view of Neptune’s Window from the other side.

Finally, the intrepid passengers of Hondius braved the icy waters of the South Atlantic with a Polar plunge and earned their rite of passage, frolicking, in the company of penguins, despite the cold wind.

In the afternoon, after a three hour voyage up the Antarctic Peninsula we landed at Half Moon Island, one of the South Shetland Islands. With beautiful vistas, this stop was nothing short of spectacular. This island was teaming with life including chinstrap penguins at our landing zone and south polar skuas, Arctic terns, petrels, sheathbills and imperial shags flying about. At one point it was possible to see all three species of the Antarctic brushtail penguins, chinstraps, gentoos, and Adelies.

As we walked between the various vistas, one more spectacular than the next, we were hampered in our eastern direction by chinstrap penguins. These penguins were traveling between the ocean where they were foraging and their respective colonies atop the rocky and snow-covered highlands. Around the cove from the landing site, the Argentine Antarctic summer station Camara could be clearly seen albeit snowed in from the winter.

Many of us enjoyed sleeping in late this morning after a packed itinery in Antarctica over the last few days. We rested our achey muscles having camped, kayaked, and hiked around the peninsula and began to relax on the first of our two sea days that would take us back to Ushuaia.

Meike kicked off the first of the days lectures by talking about the incredible albatross species we can see on the Drake Passage. She told us about their rugged lives at sea and she also spoke about the threat of long line fishing that is having a devastating effect on albatross numbers. Straight after the lecture we had the opportunity to then head outside and observe and photograph the very species we had just learnt about. We could see black-browed albatross, grey-headed albatross, and light-mantled albatross soaring around the vessel.

It was then time to return our beloved muck boots that had kept our feet warm and dry throughout the trip. The Expedition Team spent an hour thoroughly cleaning all the boots ready for the next passengers.

After lunch we gathered in the lounge again to listen to a fascinating talk by Sasha, who spoke about his career in Svalbard in the famous ghost town of Pyramiden.

Our final lecture of the day was given by Saskia who amazed us with the story of the Gerlache Belgica Expedition to Antarctica.

We then went for another plated dinner where we chatted about the new things we had learnt. Talk about disembarkation and onward travel plans started to creep in, but we still had one full day in the Drake Passage to look forward to. After dinner Juan revealed the results of the photo competition, and we took part in the Hondius Pub Quiz!

Today was our final full day of the voyage. We began packing our bags and paying our bills at reception, winding down ready for disembarkation.

Charlotte gave us a detailed lecture first thing in the morning all about the different feeding techniques of baleen and toothed whales.

Then Aitana gave a talk all about her specialism oceanography, where she explained how all the ocean currents are linked together and have a profound impact on our lives and weather systems. At the same time, Jerry gave a lecture for the Mandarin speakers onboard about Roald Amundsen’s successful expedition to the South Pole.

After our final buffet lunch we had an unique opportunity to sail past Cape Horn, the most Southern tip of South America. Sailing around this coast is very treacherous and many sailors have lost their lives in these waters. We could see through our binoculars the light house and the beautiful albatross sculture on top of the hill.

In the afternoon we joined George in the lounge for his lecture about geopolitics. Simutaneously Rose gave a talk to the Mandarin speakers in the lecture room about the geography of Antarctica. Later in the afternoon Alexis gave us a talk all about the indigenous communities of Argentina, which was followed by a fun workshop about the popular drink Mate where we all had the opportunity to try it. It was a perfect lecture to watch as we could see the coast of Argentina as we approached the entrance to the Beagle Channel.

We gathered for a special recap in the evening where we toasted to the end of an unforgettable voyage with Captain Ernesto. We celebrated our journey by watching a slideshow of our experience put together by Keith. We then dinned for one final time before enjoying a drink in the bar.

George woke us up for the final time and we headed to breakfast. During breakfast our luggage was taken down to the pier. We said a fond farewell to the crew and expediton team and our new friends and began making our way either home or onto other adventures. We experienced all the possible weathers that the white continent could have thrown at us over thirteen days. We encountered a huge variety of wildlife that survives and thrives in Antarctica including seals, whales, flying seabirds, the endearing penguins, and even plankton. We walked, we camped, we kayaked, we climbed, we cruised, and we sailed in one of the earth’s remotest, coldest, and stunning locations.

‘’It seems to me that the natural world is the greatest source of excitement; the greatest source of visual beauty; the greatest source of intellectual interest. It is the greatest source of so much in life that makes life worth living.’’

David Attenbourgh.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,783 nm

Southernmost position: 65°10.59’S, 064°7.18’W (Petermann Island)

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Ernesto Barria, Expedition Leader George Kennedy, Hotel Manager Jeroen William Barnes and all the crew and staff of M/V Hondius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you.