HDS06-26, trip log, Around Spitsbergen, In the realm of Polar Bear & Ice

Today marked the beginning of our Arctic adventure! After arriving in Longyearbyen, we had our first taste of expedition life as we boarded the Zodiacs to shuttle out to M/V Hondius, which was waiting for us at anchor. Once on board, we settled into our cabins before gathering for the mandatory safety briefing.

The emergency alarm soon sounded, signalling the start of our lifeboat drill. After collecting our bright orange life jackets from our cabins, we made our way to our muster stations. It was quite funny looking around at a sea of orange as everyone squeezed into the lounge, but the drill gave us all confidence and helped us become familiar with the ship's safety procedures before setting sail.

Later, we gathered for the Captain's Cocktail, where we met the Expedition Team and heard about the exciting plans for the days ahead. The anticipation really started to build as we learned more about the wildlife, glaciers and incredible landscapes waiting for us.

Dinner was a hearty buffet with plenty of delicious options, and many of us couldn't resist going back for seconds. As the evening drew to a close, Hondius slipped away from Longyearbyen and out into the open sea. Before turning in for the night, we secured our cabins, knowing we'd wake up alongside the spectacular Lilliehöökbreen Glacier, ready for our first full day of exploring the High Arctic.

Our first full day aboard Hondius could hardly have started in a more spectacular way. In the early morning, we enjoyed a peaceful cruise along the breathtaking Lilliehöökbreen Glacier. The sea was perfectly flat, the sun shone from a clear sky, and the glacier's towering ice cliffs reflected beautifully in the calm water. It was a magical introduction to the Arctic and a reminder of just how special this place is.

Then it was time for our mandatory expedition briefings. We were introduced to the AECO guidelines, ensuring we understand how to responsibly visit the fragile Arctic environment. We also learned everything we need to know about Zodiac operations and onboard safety - essential preparation for the adventures ahead.

After lunch, we made our first landing at Ny-Ålesund, the world's northernmost settlement and an active international research community. We wandered among the research stations, visited the museum, browsed the small gift shop, and stopped by the northernmost post office in the world. Many of us couldn't resist sending postcards home from such a unique location. A pleasant walk led us to one of Ny-Ålesund's most historic landmarks: the mast from which Roald Amundsen and Umberto Nobile departed aboard the airship Norge on their pioneering journey to the North Pole in 1926. Standing at this remarkable site, it was easy to imagine the excitement and ambition of those early polar explorers.

Returning to the ship, we gathered for the daily recap with the expedition team, who shared highlights from the day and gave us a preview of tomorrow's plans. Another delicious dinner followed, and it seemed the perfect ending to an already unforgettable first day.

But the Arctic had one more surprise waiting for us. Just after dessert, Marcel's voice came over the PA system with the announcement every expedition traveler dreams of hearing: "Polar bear!" It was not just one, but two!

We hurried out onto the decks to witness an incredible sight. One of the bears was swimming gracefully between two islands, illuminated by the most beautiful light imaginable. It was a magical encounter, and smiles were everywhere as cameras clicked and memories were made. For many of us, this was the moment we had dreamed about when booking this voyage.

With our first polar bear sightings already behind us and endless spectacular scenery still surrounding us, excitement for the days ahead has never been higher.

We are ready for tomorrow and eager to continue exploring Svalbard.

The morning began with perfect conditions for a walk along a beautiful sandy beach. After a short Zodiac ride, we landed at Gravneset, a place first discovered by the great Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz in 1596, who claimed the land for the Netherlands. Around 20 years later, an English expedition claimed the same territory for King James I and renamed the area Trinity Harbour.

The name Gravneset, meaning "Grave Point", reflects its sombre history. Around 130 graves can still be seen here, as the site was home to a whaling station that operated from the early 1600s until the late 1700s. It remains one of the largest historic cemeteries in the Svalbard archipelago. Four blubber ovens also survive, providing a glimpse into the importance of this settlement during the height of the Arctic whaling industry.

Gravneset is also remembered as the first place in Svalbard where a woman set foot. In 1839, French writer Léonie d'Aunet arrived here as part of the French scientific expedition aboard the frigate La Recherche, led by the naturalist Paul Gaimard.

She later described the experience:

"I said on the ground, as one usually does, but I should have said on snow, because I couldn't see the slightest part of earth."

This quotation comes from her book Voyage d'une femme au Spitzberg, published in 1854.

Léonie d'Aunet was deeply moved by the sight of so many graves in such a remote and unforgiving place. She wrote:

"But there was nothing written of who they were, where they came from and when they died. Coffins without headstones, without monuments, without wreaths or flowers, without anyone to cry or pray for them, without a friend to miss them and visit their barren, frozen place of rest, where the wild howls of the polar bears and the storms are the only things to break the deep silence."

After reading these words and then standing in the very place she described, it was impossible not to share some of the emotions she must have felt while walking through this forgotten cemetery.

In the afternoon, we enjoyed a Zodiac cruise to Gullybreen (‘breen’ means glacier in Norwegian), exploring the small bay of Gullybukta, which forms part of the larger Magdalenefjorden, named after Mary Magdalene.

The spectacular glacier was impressive enough, with its icy breeze reaching our faces, but nature had another highlight in store. We quietly approached a small beach where around twenty walruses were resting peacefully. Completely relaxed and seemingly unconcerned by our presence, they looked as though they had mastered the true art of enjoying life — perhaps exactly how we should all spend our holidays.

After our afternoon activities, we gathered in the lounge where Marcel, our Expedition Leader, outlined the plans for the following day. Hondius would continue her voyage through northern Svalbard, steadily pushing further north with the hope of reaching the true realm of the polar bear, deep in the frozen Arctic Ocean.

This morning we visited the famous Monacobreen. The Blue Group set off first, followed by the Red Group. After several days of outdoor activities, everyone had already memorised the procedures and precautions for taking the zodiac boats, so everything went smoothly.

When we first arrived at the glacier, the weather wasn't particularly clear—thick clouds covered the sky, and although no one felt cold, the lighting for viewing wasn't ideal either. But as time passed, the clouds drifted away, the fog dispersed, and rays of sunlight began to fall upon the glacier, revealing a blue sky. Everyone was overjoyed. Under the bright sunshine and clear blue skies, admiring the magnificent glacier scenery was absolutely wonderful, and we all immersed ourselves in the boundless beauty of nature.

Then the glacier began to make strange noises—rumbling sounds like thunder. Everyone was curious about what was causing them, while some guests who knew about glacier behavior had already prepared their cameras, ready to capture the spectacular moment of an ice calving at any time. Their patience paid off: a fairly large ice calving occurred. It happened without any warning, just like that. Some people captured it on camera, while others didn't have time to pull out their phones before it was all over. Afterward, several smaller calvings followed. The expedition team also took the opportunity to educate the guests on board about the impact of global warming on Arctic glaciers and sea ice. Everyone was torn—excited at the prospect of witnessing the grandeur of ice calving, yet quietly lamenting the unavoidable reality of glacial melt...

In the afternoon, we went to Texas Bar for a hike. Our expedition leader Marcel arranged three different hiking intensities—long, medium, and short hikes—so that everyone could choose according to their physical condition and photography needs. Each group was accompanied by at least two-armed expedition guides to ensure our safety. In areas where polar bears could appear at any time, staying vigilant at all times was essential to protect everyone's lives.

At Texas Bar, there are remains of old hunter cabins that we could enter to look around and take photos, learning about the living conditions of hunters who once trapped in the Arctic. Along the way, we also saw many Arctic flowers and plants, including moss campion, mountain avens, Arctic willow, purple saxifrage, Arctic poppy, and more. To adapt to the extreme Arctic climate, these plants have evolved many shared characteristics. Most are perennials, and to withstand the fierce, bitter winds, they grow close to the ground to avoid being stripped of moisture or blown away by strong gusts. With less than half a year of daylight, they don't grow as tall or lush as plants in temperate or tropical regions. The Arctic willow, for example, though part of the willow family, grows to only about 10 centimeters in length in the Arctic—and even that modest size represents nearly a century of persistent effort. It's hard not to admire their remarkable tenacity.

In this cold, dry, low-light, yet high-UV environment, the plants and animals that have taken root here have undergone millions of years of evolution and elimination to become what we see today. Nature can indeed be harsh, but it is also wondrous. Life may seem small in the face of nature, yet its unyielding spirit is never easily extinguished.

Today was a classic Arctic expedition day aboard MV Hondius as we spent the entire day navigating through the sea ice north of Svalbard in search of the region's remarkable wildlife. Under calm conditions and with excellent visibility for much of the day, the ship carefully threaded its way through a constantly changing mosaic of ice floes, pressure ridges, and open leads. The bridge and outer decks remained busy throughout the day as both guests and expedition staff kept a vigilant watch for the unmistakable silhouette of a polar bear wandering across the ice.

The morning's highlight was Marcelo's fascinating Arctic Museum. Drawing from his impressive personal collection of historical artifacts, he transported us back to the heroic age of polar exploration. Through maps, equipment, and rare memorabilia, Marcelo recounted the extraordinary stories of Roald Amundsen's pioneering journeys, Umberto Nobile's airship expeditions, Salomon August Andrée's ambitious but tragic balloon attempt to reach the North Pole, and Fridtjof Nansen's visionary Fram expedition. His collection and storytelling provided a captivating glimpse into the determination, ingenuity, and resilience of those who ventured into the Arctic long before modern expedition ships made these waters more accessible.

After enjoying lunch on board, everyone returned to the decks and observation lounges as Hondius continued her slow and careful progress through the sea ice. While today's search did not reward us with the elusive king of the Arctic, the ice was certainly alive. We encountered numerous seals hauled out on the floes, resting peacefully between dives. Ringed and bearded seals offered wonderful viewing opportunities and served as a reminder that these ice-covered waters support a rich and interconnected ecosystem.

Later in the afternoon, Bill and Rose delivered an engaging lecture exploring the fascinating world of sea ice. They explained how sea ice forms, evolves, and drifts across the Arctic Ocean, and highlighted its immense importance for the wildlife that depends upon it. Looking out over the frozen seascape afterward, many guests found themselves viewing the ice with a new appreciation and understanding.

As evening approached, we gathered for our daily recap in the lounge. The expedition team reviewed the day's sightings, shared stories from the hours spent searching the ice, and discussed the conditions we had encountered throughout the day. We also looked ahead to tomorrow's plans, with optimism running high as we prepare to continue our exploration of the sea ice. Every hour spent in this extraordinary environment brings new possibilities, and with patience, persistence, and a little Arctic luck, we hope tomorrow may finally reward us with our first polar bear encounter, along with many more memorable wildlife sightings.

Our day began bright and early when we were woken around 6:30 a.m. by Marcel with the exciting news that a polar bear had been spotted close to the ship. As everyone quickly made their way onto the outer decks, we found ourselves surrounded by thick Arctic fog, making it difficult to locate the bear at first. Patience paid off, however, and as the visibility gradually improved, we were finally rewarded with wonderful views of the magnificent bear. Swarms of little auks hovered and circled overhead, while the drifting fog and the quiet Arctic landscape created a truly unforgettable start to the day. As the morning progressed, we slowly continued our journey out of the pack ice. Leaving the frozen landscape behind, we made our way along the ice edge. It wasn't long before we encountered our next highlight. A large raft of harp seals was swimming in the water near the ice edge, providing wonderful opportunities to observe these charismatic seals.

While everyone was enjoying the sight of the seals, excitement quickly spread across the decks as several blows appeared on the horizon. Soon we found ourselves in the company of an impressive gathering of whales. Fin whales, the second-largest animals on Earth, surfaced gracefully around the ship, while the unmistakable blows of blue whales—the largest animals ever to have lived—rose in the distance. To make the encounter even more special, several bowhead whales also appeared, their massive dark bodies surfacing calmly in the cold Arctic waters. For the rest of the afternoon and into the early evening, we remained with these magnificent giants, enjoying prolonged and unforgettable views as they fed and travelled in close proximity to the ice edge. It was a rare privilege to observe these iconic whale species in the same area, offering everyone on board an extraordinary wildlife experience.

As the day drew to a close, we reflected on an incredible succession of wildlife encounters—from an early morning polar bear on the sea ice to an unforgettable afternoon surrounded by whales. It was another remarkable day in the High Arctic, reminding us just how rich and spectacular the wildlife encounters around the pack ice can be.  

It was with a sense of excitement that we woke as Hondius motored towards Alkafjellet, remembering the beautiful, enticing recap photographs from the previous evening. It was going to be beautiful. Imagine our shocked disappointment when, just before breakfast, we looked out and saw nothing but dense, swirling mist, obliterating both sea and sky.

Fortunately, our expedition leader was Marcel, and as this was an Oceanwide "Adventure," the cruise was still on! We boarded the Zodiacs, left the comfortable confines of the ship, and motored into a grey nothingness, guided only by GPS.

Relief... a hint of something ahead. Then we were treated to the sight of enormous craggy cliffs capped by a giant snowfield. Deep rock fissures poured with rushing meltwater. What a dramatic coastline—a climber's fantasy for sure, with so many magnificent routes up these dolerite cliffs.

We motored for a few hundred metres, cameras clicking wildly as we captured a few Brünnich's guillemots perched on narrow ledges. Then, as the numbers and noise increased, we were overwhelmed by the sheer density of the bird population. The sky, the sea, and the cliffs were all alive with agitated bird activity.

As if specially coordinated for us by a benevolent nature, the weather also improved. The mist cleared, revealing miles of magnificent soaring cliffs packed with thousands of these photogenic little birds.

We cruised by Zodiac from south to north, observing the remarkable geological sandwich of an enormous band of dolerite intruded into the limestone, edged with marble. The striking contrast in colour made the landscape appear even more dramatic.

Eventually, when the Zodiacs reached the glacier at the northern end, and after taking hundreds more photographs, we made a ninety-degree turn away from the rock-and-ice bay and headed back towards Hondius. By this time, the ship had slowly emerged from the mist and appeared as an enticing mass dominating the horizon—a welcome source of warmth and coffee.

After lunch, we once again voyaged through thick mist across Hinlopen Strait, unsure whether the next landing would go ahead. We knew that walking through mist in polar bear country was clearly a high-risk activity. Fortunately, as in the morning, the mist was burnt off by the sun, and it turned into a superb afternoon.

Passengers divided into long, medium, and short hiking groups before setting off across a vast expanse of small stones, quartzite, limestone, and gravel. Those who had followed Bill's lecture advice—looking, seeing, thinking, doing—found the surface endlessly fascinating.

This geologically rich landscape was studded with shallow-water marine fossils embedded in the rocks, while low patches of hardy vegetation clung to the frost-patterned gravel. Passengers marvelled at how these tiny plants managed to survive in this permafrost Arctic desert.

We returned to Hondius delighted to have experienced yet another great day with Oceanwide Expeditions in Svalbard.  

"Good morning... two polar bears on shore!"

There could hardly be a better wake-up call. As Hondius sailed through Freemansundet in the early hours of the morning, the expedition team spotted not one, but two polar bears walking along the shoreline. And before long everyone was out on deck, binoculars and cameras in hand, enjoying an unforgettable start to Independence Day.

The bears strolled peacefully alongside the ship, seemingly unbothered by our presence. One bear paused to roll playfully on the ground before taking a refreshing swim, while the other crossed a shallow riverbed on its journey. Watching these magnificent animals move through their Arctic home in perfect morning light was a privilege few will ever forget.

The wildlife spectacle did not end there. Right at the bow of Hondius, a flock of around fifty pink-footed geese drifted calmly across the water, offering wonderful close-up views and reminding us that the Arctic is full of remarkable encounters, both great and small. Eventually, we had to continue towards our next destination. Missing breakfast may have crossed a few minds, but after such an incredible wildlife experience, it already felt as though we had been well nourished.

Our morning programme continued with Meike's engaging lecture on Arctic seabirds. She introduced us to the fascinating world of the auks, explaining why these remarkable birds migrate to the High Arctic, how they survive in such a demanding environment, and the unique adaptations that make them so successful. It was wonderful to see so many guests filling the lecture theatre, proving that while polar bears often steal the spotlight, the Arctic's birdlife is equally worthy of admiration.

For those interested in the region's rich history, the morning also offered time to settle into the lounge for a screening of The Red Tent, presented by expedition guide Marcelo after popular request. Before we knew it, the morning had flown by.

Lunch, as always, was a colourful and delicious affair. Head Chef Ralf and the galley team prepared another excellent meal, warmly served by our attentive hotel team under the leadership of Mehl. Outside, the weather could hardly have been more inviting. Under blue skies, bright sunshine and calm seas, we landed at Boltodden for our afternoon adventure. This remarkable site is famous for its Lower Cretaceous dinosaur trackway, where footprints preserved in sandstone reveal that large plant-eating dinosaurs, including Iguanodon, walked here some 125 million years ago. Standing beside these ancient tracks offered a humbling reminder of just how deep the history of Svalbard truly is.

From there, we spread out on a variety of hikes across the eastern shores of Spitsbergen, Svalbard's largest island. Surrounded by wide open landscapes, untouched wilderness and complete silence, we experienced the Arctic in its purest form. Sometimes simply being present in such an extraordinary place is adventure enough.

Back on board, we returned by Zodiac to Hondius for the daily recap, where the expedition team shared highlights from the day, introduced tomorrow's plans, and offered useful tips for the adventures still to come.

A day of hiking certainly works up an appetite, and the evening concluded with a beautifully prepared four-course dinner. Around the tables, conversations flowed easily as everyone exchanged stories of polar bears, ancient dinosaur footprints and personal moments from another unforgettable day in the Arctic.

For those not yet ready to call it a night, Bill rounded off the programme with his inspiring lecture, Paintings of the Sea. With his thoughtful perspective, it was promising that after this evening, we would never quite see the sea in the same way again.

From close encounters with the Arctic's most iconic wildlife to stepping back 125 million years into Earth's past, 4 July was a day filled with wonder, discovery and quiet moments that reminded us just how extraordinary Svalbard can be.

Today, we woke up early once again because of... more polar bears! Judging by the number of us still in our nightgowns, it was clear that even though these were the fifth and sixth bears of the trip, we were still just as excited to be woken up this way.

This was our last expedition day, and the team had planned a full day outdoors. After spending some time watching the bears near the Polish research station in Hornsund, we sailed towards Gåshamna while enjoying breakfast. Once the team had scouted and prepared the landing site, we headed ashore to explore the beautiful valley. We visited the remains of old whaling stations, where standing beside enormous whale bones reminded us just how massive these marine mammals really are. Nature had reclaimed much of the site, with flowers, mosses, and mushrooms growing among the remains along the beach.

Some of us continued on a longer hike to a viewpoint overlooking the bay, while others stayed closer to the beach, watching purple sandpipers and snow buntings, or simply enjoying the sound of the waves crashing on the shore.

After a windy Zodiac ride back to Hondius, we enjoyed lunch and, for some of us, a well-earned nap.

Later in the afternoon, we arrived at Burgerbukta. Hondius waited at the entrance of the fjord, offering beautiful views of the towering mountains and glacier ahead. We explored the bay by Zodiac in a cold, misty atmosphere that gave us one last true Arctic experience. The steep cliffs, lined with countless waterfalls and streaked with iron-red rock, made the landscape even more spectacular.

The glacier was quiet at first, but eventually rewarded us with a few calving events : a beautiful farewell as we cruised back through the ice towards Hondius.

Back on board, the expedition team gathered us in the lounge for the saddest recap of the voyage: the disembarkation briefing. Thankfully, Rose had prepared a wonderful slideshow that took us back to our very first day, reminding us of all the unforgettable memories we had made during this incredible adventure.

After an unforgettable journey through the High Arctic, today marked the end of our adventure aboard M/V Hondius. It was a bittersweet morning as we enjoyed one last hearty breakfast together, sharing stories, favourite moments and plenty of laughs from the past days exploring Svalbard.

Before long, it was time to gather ourselves and prepare to leave the ship that had been our home throughout the voyage. As we stepped ashore in Longyearbyen, there was a real mix of emotions. While everyone was looking forward to the next stage of their travels, it was also hard to say goodbye to the wonderful crew, Expedition Team and new friends who had become our Oceanwide family.

From towering glaciers and dramatic ice-covered landscapes to incredible wildlife encounters and unforgettable Zodiac cruises, we've shared experiences that will stay with us for years to come. Together we've explored one of the most remote and spectacular places on Earth, creating memories that are sure to be retold long after we've returned home.

Although our expedition has come to an end, the memories, photographs and friendships made along the way will remain. We leave Hondius with full hearts, incredible stories to share and a deeper appreciation for the beauty and fragility of the Arctic. Safe travels, and we hope our paths cross again on another adventure.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1050 nautical miles

Northernmost point: 80°54.5’N / 012°46.4’E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Remmert Koster , Expedition Leader Marcel Paul, Hotel Manager Albert Don and all the crew and staff of M/V Hondius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you.