OTL06-25, trip log, Around Spitsbergen, In the realm of polar bear & ice

Today marked the beginning of our Arctic adventure aboard m/v Ortelius! After a morning of final preparations, we anchored just offshore from Longyearbyen and waited with quiet excitement for our new guests to arrive. At 4pm, Zodiacs began shuttling each of us from the jetty to the ship, offering a first close-up glimpse of the vessel that will be our home in the coming days. The skies were slightly overcast, casting a moody veil across the landscape and adding a touch of drama and mystery to the atmosphere.

Once all guests and luggage were safely on board, we gathered on Level 6 for an official welcome and a mandatory safety briefing held out on the top deck. This was followed by the Captain’s Cocktail in the bar, where we were introduced to Captain Remmert and our Expedition Leader, Adam. Glasses of bubbly were passed around alongside a tasty selection of sliders to keep hunger at bay.

Dinner was served as a buffet in the dining room, hosted by Hotel Manager William, who warmly welcomed us and invited everyone to enjoy the spread. The meal was generous and varied, giving everyone a chance to relax into life on board and enjoy a full belly before heading back upstairs for additional briefings.

By 8.30 pm, with a noticeable increase in swell, we regrouped for mandatory bear and rifle safety briefings. As the vessel began to roll more heavily, seasickness crept in for many. The hotel staff and expedition team moved quickly to support those struggling, offering assistance with calm and care. Doctor Ken remained busy well into the night, tending to those most affected.

Even so, nature offered a parting gift from Isfjorden as we sailed north: sightings of both a humpback whale and a pair of blues eased the discomfort and reminded us why we were here. The wind and swell may have made things challenging, but this was a fitting introduction to expedition life, and a raw reminder of the wildness ahead and the power of the polar seas.

This morning we woke up to bright Arctic light and the stillness of Ny Ålesund, one of the northernmost settlements in the world! We roamed freely through its colourful wooden buildings, scientific stations, and wide-open surroundings. The air was crisp, and the sense of remoteness palpable. We visited the small but rich museum and the local shop stocked with postcards, Arctic trinkets, and reminders of human resilience in this far-off place.

Marcelo and Gabi led us on a walk out toward the historic airship mast, where Roald Amundsen and Umberto Nobile launched their daring flights to the North Pole. Standing at that spot, with the wind brushing across the tundra and the ghosts of polar explorers in mind, it was easy to feel the weight of history.

Nature did not disappoint. Reindeer grazed near the edges of town, and Arctic terns circled above, their sharp cries filling the air. Some of us were lucky enough to spot a fox resting near the outskirts, its fur blending into the terrain. Along the way, we also observed barnacle geese with goslings waddling in tow, which was a heartwarming sight in this wild landscape.

After returning to the ship for a hearty and well-earned lunch, we set off again, this time to Ny-London. This long perimeter landing rewarded us with sweeping views of the bay and another chance to connect with Svalbard’s wildlife. We spotted long-tailed skuas gliding overhead, a purple sandpiper guarding her chicks, and more barnacle geese dotting the rocky terrain.

As the day came to a close, we gathered for recaps with Hazel, Koen, and Rao. Hazel took us through the complex world of whale identification, Koen unpacked the fascinating geology of Svalbard, and Rao gave us fresh appreciation for the tireless Arctic tern and its epic migratory journey.

With minds full and hearts open, we turn in wondering: what will tomorrow bring?

Today our day could not have started any better. Right at the wake-up call, Adam announced that we had spotted a polar bear on the coastline. Immediately, everybody woke up, dressed quickly and headed to the outer decks. This beautiful yellowish polar bear was indeed sitting on the coastline in clear sight. Well, it was very good if you were looking through binoculars or a camera with a good zoom. The bear started swimming after a while, so Adam chose for the team to launch the Zodiacs right after breakfast to see the bear from closer.

All Zodiacs proceeded in a line towards the coastline where the bear was hunkered down in a patch of green with many flowers. It was a beautiful sight seeing the bear surrounded by so many different colours. She was not too curious about us and simply observed. She started walking towards Idabreen so we watched her for a while walking around the corner to the glacier. This is where she dug a comfortable spot for herself and fell asleep. It was a perfect ending for us as we headed out towards Selegersbreen and Monacobreen.

There was a lot of brash ice floating around the two glaciers. Beautiful deep blue icebergs were lying all over the fjord. Some had the chance to see a bearded seal swimming. Getting closer to Selegersbreen we could see many black-legged kittiwakes sitting on the icebergs. They were waiting for a calving to happen to feed small fish that could come up after calvings. The glacier was very active and many calvings happened in a short time. One event was so big that a large tidal wave was created and was felt inside the Zodiac! Monacobreen was also quite active. We were able to observe how some of the icebergs were born. There must have been at least 1,000 kittiwakes flying around the glacier front. Between the kittiwakes there were also a few Ivory gulls which were only visible for the keen birder eyes.

In the afternoon we landed at Texas bar, built by Hilmar Nois. A known hunter from the early 20th century used the hut to hunt polar bears and Arctic foxes during the wintertime. All groups went a bit inland to explore the nearby surroundings.

There were many different flowers to be found like the white mountain avens and the purple cushion moss campion. There were many Arctic skuas nesting in the area and if you did not watch where you were going you would be attacked by them. Luckily the guides knew how to avoid their nesting grounds. This afternoon there was also a polar plunge organized. Many brave souls jumped into the ice-cold arctic water. The short and medium-sized hiking group started first with some 15 people. Afterwards the long hiking group came down from their 3-hour long hike through the high hills and also joined another 15 people. A memorable experience!

In the evening, we had the recap before dinner where Adam explained the following day. Marcelo explained who Abraham Ortelius was, and whom the ship is named after. All together, an amazing day with many incredible experiences. Dinner was a welcome ending to the day to replenish our energy levels again.

The morning began seemingly in a dream. A light fog drifted over the horizon, softening the stark contrast of sea and sky, and we found ourselves slipping quietly into the ethereal world of the pack ice. Everything was hushed, the kind of stillness that only ice and distant places can hold, interrupted only by the occasional crackle of ice shifting and the low rumble of the ship as it made its way through the ice. The silence made every movement feel profound, every sight unforgettable. Here, in this frozen expanse, life reveals itself in subtle tracks and sudden flashes of motion. We spotted trails carved into the snow by seals, all quiet reminders of life above and below the ice.

The day was rich with learning. In the morning, Koen delivered a fascinating lecture on polar bears, the rulers of this icy kingdom. And, coincidentally, the lecture was interrupted by the rulers themselves: two polar bears feasting on the carcass of a sperm whale, a rare and dramatic spectacle of Arctic survival. The scene was powerful, brutal and beautiful, reminding us of the raw realities that govern life out here. Ivory and glaucous gulls along with fulmars provided the supporting cast scavenging on scraps.

Later, Aitana shared her deep knowledge with a lecture on sea ice itself, revealing the science and patterns hidden within the frozen landscape. As if with impeccable timing, a third polar bear was found ambling across the ice at the end of the lecture.

In the afternoon, Mark guided us through the winged life of Svalbard, from guillemots to the elusive ivory gull. Then, something extraordinary: as we slowly edged away towards the end of the pack ice in the late afternoon, a fourth bear was spotted curled up, sleeping peacefully at the edge of the pack ice, the picture of quiet contentment in a harsh world.

As evening settled in, we gathered for a look ahead. Plans for tomorrow were discussed with excitement, followed by a pause to reflect on the day’s exceptional sightings. For recap, Hazel offered a short showcase of Arctic seals, followed by Rao delving into the complex behaviours of polar bears.

Our sightings today mirrored the lectures in a way that felt almost orchestrated, however today was more than a day of sightings; it was a deep dive into the heart of the polar world — its silence, science, and splendour.

After a lucky sighting of four polar bears on the ice yesterday, Ortelius sailed through the night to reach the central waters of Svalbard. As forecasted, the entire archipelago was shrouded in thick mist from early morning, and we planned a special Zodiac cruise to make the most of it.

After the Expedition Team launched the Zodiacs at Torellneset, we navigated through half-metre swells with visibility down to less than 200 metres. As we slowly travelled south along the foot of the ice cap on the west coast of Austfonna, a herd of lazy walruses came into view near the cape. They hardly seemed to move at all, yet their comical expressions while resting left a lasting impression. From time to time they lifted their heads, rolled over on the beach, and made low, peculiar noises.

Around the cape, the wind was strong and the currents unpredictable, often pushing the bow of the Zodiac in different directions. Photographers on board struggled to find a stable moment to press the shutter, while those with binoculars focused intently on every detail of the walruses' behaviour. This is the essence of expedition travel, reminiscent of the early explorers who pushed through mist and mystery in search of untouched corners of the sea.

After lunch, we crossed the channel to Alkefjellet, the renowned bird cliffs whose name means "mount guillemot". Located within the Nordaust Svalbard Nature Reserve, these cliffs are a dramatic and important nesting site for thousands of black-legged kittiwakes and Brünnich's guillemots. The geological formations of the cliffs themselves are equally impressive.

Our Zodiac cruise began on the south-east side. During this height of the Arctic summer, the snow atop the cliffs is steadily melting, sending streams of clear water down the heavily weathered basalt faces. This is a crucial time in the seabird breeding season. Birds that have migrated here to breed are seizing every opportunity to feed, as they progress through egg-laying, chick-rearing, and preparation for their return journeys in the coming months. Meanwhile, their predators, the glaucous gulls, were also active, preying on the vulnerable guillemots.

We spent some time admiring the shallow waters in front of the glacier before returning to Ortelius through the lingering mist.

The morning greeted us with perfect conditions for a walk through a picturesque meadow, carpeted with moss and dotted with a variety of small, colourful flowers. Along the way, we came across a couple of huts, one built in the 1930s by trappers and the other owned by the Svalbard authorities.

The long and medium hiking groups set off shortly after. Within minutes, we encountered a variety of birds and more flowering plants. We also found ourselves crossing an area of extremely sticky mud that nearly halted our progress. But with reindeer already in sight, we pressed on, eventually leaving the mud and gravel behind.

Two reindeer approached us curiously. The group remained silent and still, observing from a respectful distance. We quietly admired both the proud adult reindeer and the younger one at its side.

The return journey was easier, some descended the hill, while others followed the meltwater streams and coastal edge. A mountain reflected its majestic form in a small lagoon, like a perfect mirror. Slowly, we made our way back to the landing site, recharged and with hundreds more photographs captured on our cameras.

In the afternoon, the weather turned slightly colder, but our enthusiasm to explore these ancient lands, once home to dinosaurs, kept us focused. We scanned the stones beneath our feet, finding traces and evidence from the Jurassic era with each step.

The descent and landing site near the Zodiacs had been carefully considered earlier, and a stable ladder was improvised over the snow to assist with the arrival. During the hike, we discussed various theories about the dinosaurs that once roamed this region, their species, behaviour, diets, sizes and ultimate fate.

Centuries later, this same area became a popular hunting ground for Arctic foxes. As we returned to the ship, we reflected on the ancient footprints preserved in stone, reminders of a world long gone. It made us wonder if each of us might one day leave behind our own mark, our own story carved in stone, for future generations to discover.

We woke to the warm tones of Adam’s voice inviting us into another full day of adventure, beginning with a morning Zodiac cruise in Burgerbukta. Tucked deep inside Hornsund, this bay is framed by dramatic cliffs and ancient red rock, shaped over millennia by ice and weather. As we cruised between sculpted icebergs and beside cascading waterfalls, we marvelled at the textures and colours surrounding us. The glacier at the end of the fjord stood tall and luminous. In a delightful surprise, we found William, our hotel manager, not in his usual setting, but stationed in a Zodiac handing out hot chocolate and rum. Floating among the icebergs with a steaming cup in hand was exactly the kind of unexpected joy that makes days like this unforgettable. Along the way, we spotted kittiwakes wheeling overhead and even a few ivory gulls perched on the ice.

Back onboard, we tucked into a hearty lunch, with the standout being pastrami Reuben sandwiches, which disappeared quickly. Then it was time to gear up for an afternoon hike at Gåshamna, once an active whaling base in the 1600s.

The long hikers pushed up to an impressive summit, while the medium hikers enjoyed a scenic route tracing the coastline. Along the way, we came across whale bones scattered in the tundra, ghostly remnants of the past lying among moss and stone.

After returning to the ship, we gathered for recap before wrapping up in more layers for a festive evening BBQ on the heli deck. With mulled wine in hand, the crew fired up the grill, and the atmosphere soon turned celebratory with music, dancing and some of the finest views anyone could ask for. We lingered long into the light-filled Arctic night, reluctant to say goodbye to such a perfect day.

Today we visited Bamsebu, a small trapper’s hut on the southern shore of Ingebrigtsenbukta, in Van Keulenfjorden. The site holds a somber legacy: the whale bones of over 550 belugas, remnants of industrial hunting from the 1930s. These animals were driven into the bay and slaughtered for their blubber. Seeing the bleached skeletons still scattered along the shore was a powerful and painful reminder of how deeply human activity has scarred the Arctic.

After taking in the harrowing history, we broke into hiking groups to explore the surrounding tundra. The day’s wildlife did not disappoint. Harbour seals bobbed just offshore, curious and alert, while reindeer grazed across the mossy plains. Overhead, a flurry of shorebirds danced on the wind, their calls echoing over the stillness of the fjord. Life, it seemed, has reclaimed this place.

Following lunch back on board, we gathered at the bridge to watch the expedition team attempt a landing at Vårsolbukta, a wide bay in Bellsund known for its flat beaches and rich birdlife.

But the Arctic reminded us who’s in charge as strong swell and steady wind made a safe landing impossible today.

Instead, we stayed aboard and enjoyed a compelling lecture by Marcelo, who guided us through the gripping tales of North Pole exploration. From the doomed journey of the airship Italia to Amundsen’s daring flights, his stories added a dramatic backdrop to our current voyage, an expedition shaped by awe, caution, and respect for this wild frontier.

Today was a day of reflection and wonder. We saw a coastline haunted by history and redeemed by nature, felt the force of Arctic weather firsthand, and left with a deeper appreciation for the fragility and endurance of this extraordinary region.

We woke to calm seas and a soft early light creeping over the horizon. At 6:45am came the gentle wakeup call. We had arrived at Poolepynten and it was time for our walrus fix. From the deck, a few of the big beauties could already be spotted hauled out on the shoreline, their enormous shapes easy to make out even from a distance. The team was quick to get the Zodiacs in the water and head ashore to scout the area.

Hazel was the first to welcome guests on land and we followed in small groups, walking carefully and respectfully toward the resting walruses. Overcast skies lent the place a quiet stillness as we observed the giants of the Arctic up close. There they were, quietly curled up together, tusks resting on each other’s faces, with one missing a tooth but looking no less majestic. At around 1,500 kilograms each, these creatures were something to behold. Despite their size, the scene was peaceful and calm. Most of us stood in silence for a moment or two, just taking it all in.

We meandered along the beach afterward, weaving our way through the nesting grounds of the arctic terns. The terns were quick to let us know when we were getting too close, diving and chattering as we passed. Along the way we were lucky to spot a few red phalaropes, flitting along the shoreline in brief, beautiful encounters that added a splash of colour to the grey morning.

Back on board, we were welcomed with a hearty lunch. A good feed of spaghetti bolognese and carbonara hit the spot, especially after the chill of the morning landing. After a short rest, we were off again for our final shore excursion, this time to Alkhornet. The group split into walking parties, each heading off at their own pace toward the towering bird cliffs. It was a stunning location, wild and rugged, with soaring birds and wide views. The outing was the perfect way to end our time on land, allowing space for quiet reflection and appreciation of everything we had experienced.

That evening, we gathered for the captain’s cocktail farewell. There was laughter and a few tears as Aitana shared an incredible slideshow capturing the spirit of our journey. Faces lit up with memories as each photo passed by, reminding us how lucky we had been. Soon after, we moved to the dining room for our final dinner. The food was excellent and spirits were high as the hotel department came through the room to well-earned applause.

With our bellies full and hearts even fuller, many of us headed up to the bar for one last drink. There was a warmth in the air, not from the weather but from the shared stories and the friendships formed over the course of the trip. As we raised a final toast, we were all deeply content, knowing these were memories we’d carry for a long time.  

The time had arrived to say our goodbyes and leave the ship that had been our home throughout this unforgettable voyage around Svalbard. After days of adventure, wildlife encounters and stunning Arctic landscapes, we returned to where it all started in Longyearbyen.

Following one last breakfast together, we disembarked the lovely Ortelius at 8:30 in the morning. There was no shortage of emotion as we hugged the Ortelius family and said our farewells. The bonds we had formed during the journey made it especially hard to part ways with the team who had guided, supported and shared every step of the experience.

Our luggage had already been offloaded and was waiting on the dock. With bags in hand and memories to treasure, we stepped off the pier. Some of us were heading off on new adventures, while others began the trip home, each carrying a piece of the Arctic with us – our experience and memories.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1273 nautical miles

Most northern point sailed: 81°54.273 N, 017°13.273 E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Remmert Koster, Expedition Leader Adam Burke, Hotel Manager William Barnes and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a pleasure and a privilege travelling with you.

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team 

Hazel, Adam, Aitana, Matt, Kana, Mark, Ken

Rao, Gabi, Koen, Marcelo