OTL26-26, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp - free camping, kayaking, snowshoe/hiking, mountaineering, photo workshop

The day started with a stunning, clear-sky morning in Ushuaia. Wind and rain showers arrived post-boarding.

Embarkation from Ushuaia to the Great White Continent. The day we’ve dreamed of for years has finally begun. Ushuaia, the “End of the World,” greeted us not with its famed winds, but with brilliant, benevolent sunshine. The mountains framing the city stood sharp and clear against a deep blue sky—a perfect send-off.

The morning was a flurry of last-minute preparations and excited reunions with fellow expeditioners. The sight of our ship, Ortelius, was something special. This isn't just a cruise; it’s our ticket to a week of adventure and one-in-a-lifetime experiences. Conversations buzzed with shared excitement about the unique plans: camping on the ice itself, kayaking among bergs, and even some mountaineering. And the promise of ringing in the New Year in this most remote and majestic place hangs in the air like a special secret.

Boarding was smooth, and almost on cue, as we settled into our cabins, the Ushuaia we’d read about announced itself. The wind picked up and brief rain showers pattered on the decks—a gentle reminder of the powerful elements we are entering.

The official shipboard routine commenced with the essential safety briefing and abandon ship drill, a sobering but necessary ritual that reminds us of the seriousness of our journey. This was swiftly followed by the Captain’s Welcome in the lounge. Then, the Expedition Team—our guide and mentors for the coming days—was introduced. Their collective experience, from marine biology to ornithology to polar skills, is very impressive. Almost as impressive as their love for Plankton 😉. We are in good hands.

A lovely dinner allowed us to get to know our tablemates, all sharing stories of how we came to be here.

We spent the post-dinner hours wrapped warmly on an outer deck. The evening light was sublime. The landscape slowly unfolded, and then the wildlife arrived as if on cue. Magellanic penguins porpoise in the distance. Sea lions lounged on rocky islets. The true highlight came as pods of Dusky dolphins, joined our procession. They danced in our bow wave and alongside the pilot boat. It felt like the perfect escort from the natural world.

As we approached the eastern end of the channel, the protective land walls began to fall away. The ship’s motion subtly changed; the rolling swell of the great Southern Ocean made itself known.

The anticipation is palpable. Ahead of us: the Drake Passage, then the ice, the silence, the adventure of camping on the Seventh Continent, and the dawn of a New Year unlike any other. The journey has truly begun.

We woke up to an unmistakable note of excitement in Chloe’s voice over the PA: “Good morning, everyone, and welcome to this beautiful day on the Drake Lake!”

Many of us were surprised to learn that we were, in fact, sailing. With barely any movement, it felt more like we were still in the Beagle Channel than crossing the infamous Drake Passage. Calm seas and blue skies made for a wonderfully gentle introduction to life onboard Ortelius.

After a well-rested night, guests enjoyed their first buffet breakfast before gathering for the mandatory IAATO and Zodiac Operations briefing. Chloe outlined the rules and guidelines for operating safely in Antarctica, emphasizing our role as visitors to this pristine environment and the importance of protecting its wildlife for future generations.

Next, we were invited to the lecture room to receive our muck boots—essential gear for wet landings and shore excursions, ensuring warm and dry feet throughout the voyage.

Before long, it was time to eat again, with a delicious buffet lunch served in the dining room. The afternoon continued with an engaging lecture by Koen, who introduced the different penguin species we may encounter during the expedition. Adding to the excitement, several guests arrived dressed as penguins, clearly eager to meet their real-life counterparts.

Another mandatory briefing followed—this one highly anticipated: camping. Joyce and Sid introduced the equipment and what to expect from this unique Antarctic experience. With just a bivy and sleeping bag, the sense of adventure was already building.

Afternoon treats were served in the bar, offering a chance to relax and get to know fellow expeditioners. Later, Chloe presented the plans for the following day, followed by insightful recaps on celestial navigation and cold weather adaptation by Joyce and Sid.

The day concluded with our first à la carte dinner onboard. An excellent meal rounded off an absolutely stunning first day in the Drake Passage—Drake Lake at its finest.

Our second day of the expedition was a full day at sea as we continued sailing south from Ushuaia toward Antarctica. Just like the first day, the ocean was very calm. There were hardly any waves, and it did not feel like we were crossing the famous Drake Passage at all. The ship moved smoothly, and everyone enjoyed the relaxed conditions as we prepared to say goodbye to the year 2025.

The morning started with a mandatory kayaking briefing given by Paolo. All passengers interested in kayaking learned about safety, equipment, and what to expect once we reach Antarctica. After the briefing, the activity sign-up began. Passengers were invited into the lecture room, where they moved through different stations. First, they met the mountaineers, then the camping guides, and finally the kayak guide to sign up for their Basecamp activities.

While this was happening, many guests spent time on the bridge and outer decks to watch for wildlife. We were surrounded by seabirds, including cape petrels, albatrosses, and storm petrels, flying gracefully around the ship.

Lunch was served around midday, followed by biosecurity checks in the afternoon. The expedition guides carefully inspected all passenger gear to make sure it complied with IAATO rules. This is very important to protect Antarctica and to ensure that no foreign material, such as grass or seeds, is brought ashore.

The weather stayed excellent, allowing guests to continue enjoying time outside on deck. At 16:00, Matt gave a photography lecture, sharing helpful tips on how to take the best possible photos during the expedition.

As the evening approached, excitement grew for the last night of the year. We began with happy hour and daily recaps, followed by a fun game of mingle bingo. The game was a great way for passengers to meet new people and connect with those they would be sharing this once-in-a-lifetime journey with. After the third “bingo,” prizes were handed out.

The celebrations continued with a fantastic BBQ on deck, served as we approached the South Shetland Islands. These were our very first views of Antarctica. The evening ended with dancing outside, karaoke inside, and finally a countdown to welcome the New Year. Happy New Year! What a great way to sail into 2026, and to wake up in pristine wonders of Antarctica!

We woke on the morning of the first day of 2026 to a cheerful wake-up call and calm Antarctic conditions. After a relaxed breakfast, excitement grew as we prepared for our very first landing of the voyage to Antarctica. Thanks to favourable weather, especially light winds, we were able to land at the dramatic Elephant Point.

Our first Zodiac operation went smoothly, and everyone made it ashore without difficulty. Right on the beach, just a few metres from the sea, we encountered our first elephant seals, hauled out on the sandy shoreline. Following a clearly marked route set up in advance by the expedition team, we began our walk toward a nearby colony of gentoo penguins.

The atmosphere felt almost mystical. Steam drifted low across the ground, carried by a gentle breeze, while the deep, echoing roars of elephant seals resonated around us, making it difficult to pinpoint their source. We were delighted to see elephant seal pups resting near the shore, as well as gentoo penguin chicks bustling around their nests. The site was remarkable not only for its wildlife but also for its diversity of flora. Bright green mosses and several species of lichen clung to the surrounding rocks, adding subtle colour to the stark landscape.

We also came across a Russian research field camp and learned that scientists there had been conducting fieldwork focused on microplastics. After a couple of hours ashore, we returned to the ship, full of new impressions from our first Antarctic landing.

Following a satisfying lunch, some of us chose to rest, while others spent time on the outer decks scanning the horizon for whales or simply enjoying the scenery with a warm cup of tea or coffee in hand.

In the afternoon, we arrived at the famous volcanic Deception Island, setting the stage for another remarkable experience. Our ship carefully navigated Neptune’s Bellows, the narrow entrance into the island’s flooded caldera. Towering black volcanic cliffs, dusted with snow, rose steeply on either side, creating the sensation of passing through a gateway into another world.

Once inside the sheltered inner bay, the scenery unfolded in soft tones of white, grey, and black. Snow-covered volcanic slopes rolled gently down toward calm, steel-grey waters, masking the island’s turbulent geological past. We landed near the atmospheric remains of Whalers Bay, where early 20th-century whaling stations once operated. Rusted boilers and decaying structures, half-buried in snow, stood as silent reminders of a bygone industrial era.

Many of us continued a walk up to Neptune’s Window, a saddle overlooking the open sea, where seabirds circled the cliffs below. The second landing of the day concluded with a much-anticipated highlight: the polar plunge. Despite the icy temperatures, we braved the Antarctic waters, made marginally warmer by the volcanic caldera in which we were swimming.

Our ever-enthusiastic expedition leader, Chloe, added another memorable moment to the day. Earlier, she had collected plankton samples, and after dinner we gathered to observe sea angels and other delicate planktonic organisms under the microscope.

As the day came to an end, we headed to our cabins, tired but content, having experienced an unforgettable start to the year in Antarctica.

Sea Kayaking:

Who were the first sea kayakers to paddle Antarctica in 2026? Chances are it was us! 8 brave paddlers had an early start on the first day of the year to enjoy a kayaking session on Elephant Point. This site is located on the southern coast of Livingstone Island, and it presents a broken coastline with several islets and shallow rocks. We had the chance to see several porpoising penguins coming to and from the rockeries by the beach. The highlights of the day were a large Leopard Seal that swam past our kayaks a few times and elephant seals hauled out by the beach. A few large males were very loud, and we could clearly hear them from the water.

We were gently awakened at 06:45 to begin our first full day of activities in Antarctica. After breakfast in the dining room, excitement was high as guests prepared for a morning zodiac cruise around the Melchior Islands — a scattered group of low, ice-covered islands.

This morning also marked the beginning of our activity programme. Depending on registrations, guests split into groups for mountaineering, kayaking, or zodiac cruising. As the ship lay quietly among the islands, mountaineers departed first, followed by zodiac cruisers and kayakers, each group heading out in turn to explore this beautiful and sheltered Antarctic landscape.

The Melchior Islands provided ideal conditions for a scenic zodiac cruise. Surrounded by snow-covered islets, calm waters, and drifting ice, we navigated through narrow channels and around sculpted icebergs, taking time to absorb the stillness and scale of our surroundings. The low relief of the islands offered expansive views in all directions, making it a peaceful and visually striking introduction to Antarctic exploration.

After returning to the ship, lunch was served at midday, allowing everyone to warm up and reflect on the morning’s experiences.

In the afternoon, we turned our attention to Orne Island, a small but dramatic island known for its steep slopes, striking scenery, and lively wildlife. Once again, guests split into activity groups, with mountaineers heading out first, followed by those joining the zodiac landing and kayakers.

Those who landed were greeted by a bustling colony of nesting Chinstrap penguins and a colony of Gentoo penguins, their calls echoing across the snow as they moved between nesting sites and the shoreline. From the landing area, guests enjoyed excellent views across the Gerlache Strait, with towering peaks and glaciers providing a classic Antarctic backdrop. The combination of wildlife, dramatic terrain, and clear polar light made for a memorable afternoon ashore.

As the final groups returned to Ortelius, we gathered in the lounge for the daily recap. The expedition team reflected on the day’s highlights and outlined plans for the days ahead, as we continued deeper into the Antarctic Peninsula. Later in the evening, campers were called to the zodiac boarding area and transported ashore to spend the night on the Antarctic continent — an unforgettable adventure under the polar ‘’night” sky.

With our first full day of Antarctic activities complete, Ortelius remained surrounded by ice, mountains, and silence. Today offered a perfect balance of exploration and immersion, marking a powerful beginning to our time in this extraordinary region.

Sea Kayak: AM

Melchior Islands, AM: Beautiful conditions to paddle in. We covered around 5.5Km in no wind, flat seas and a gentle swell. The Melchior Islands are a mayhem of islets and canals with steep snowbanks, seracs and grounded icebergs. Beautiful but potentially treacherous hence the need to pick conservative lines at the time of enjoying our kayaking. We visited Argentina’s Melchior Base, it was opened in 1947, and it was year-round inhabited until 1961. This base broadcasted the Antarctic Weather forecast widely used in the Peninsula.

Sea Kayak: PM

This afternoon, we relocated to Orne Island by the northern end of Errera Channel, the wind was blowing cold from the south and for a moment it looked like kayaking may not be possible. Luckily, we were able to tow our boats to the northern coast of Cuverville Island and use the shelter of the lee side to operate normally. We paddled along the coast, downwind from a very large Gentoo penguin colony, an experience our nostrils will not forget any time soon. Then as we paddled counterclockwise towards the SW coast, we saw the beautiful two masted Barque Europa, anchored by a rocky outcrop. The same rocky outcrop had been used early in the 20th century by whaling ships as seen by the rusty old chains and water boat remains.

Today was a true Antarctic expedition day, shaped by the conditions and defined by the incredible environment around Basecamp. The morning began with a relaxed wake-up and breakfast, with guests watching the movement of swell and ice outside. Due to the larger swell, kayaking was not possible, and instead, everyone took part in Zodiac cruising. This allowed us all to safely experience the Antarctic landscape from the water.

Zodiacs moved away from the ship and into a maze of ice, rising and falling gently with the swell as we navigated between icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Some bergs towered above the boats, their surfaces carved by wind and sea, while others revealed glowing blue ice beneath the waterline. The scale and beauty of the scenery were striking, creating a powerful sense of perspective in this remote place.

Wildlife encounters brought the morning to life. Penguins porpoised through the water near the Zodiacs, while others gathered on ice floes, watching our slow approach. Seals were seen resting on the ice, lifting their heads briefly before settling back into the stillness. Seabirds passed overhead, their calls echoing across the bay and adding sound to an otherwise quiet world.

After returning to the ship, lunch provided a welcome chance to warm up and share stories from the morning. The afternoon expedition took us to the Pleneau Islands, often described as an iceberg graveyard. Here, massive, grounded icebergs filled the shallow waters, their dramatic forms creating narrow channels and striking silhouettes. Cruising among them felt like drifting through a frozen gallery, each iceberg offering new textures and colours.

The wildlife of Pleneau added further highlights, with seals lounging on the ice and penguins moving confidently between sea and shore. Whales were spotted in the distance, their blows briefly breaking the calm surface of the water and magnificent flukes on full display. As the light softened across the ice, the sense of scale and isolation became even more pronounced.

The day concluded with a recap from the expedition team and a shared dinner on board. Later, campers prepared to head ashore for the night, carrying with them the quiet wonder of a day spent exploring one of the most extraordinary environments on Earth.

The day began with Chloe’s cheerful “Good morning!” over the PA, setting the tone for a beautiful Antarctic morning. As we approached the Yarlour Islands, several humpback whales were spotted feeding near the ship—an unforgettable start.

Shortly after breakfast, fog and gentle snowfall moved in, creating an atmospheric and almost mystical setting. Despite the conditions, operations ran smoothly. Mountaineers were transported to Canisa Point for a challenging ascent through the fog, while other guests went ashore at a small island affectionately known as Adélie paradise. The island was dotted with Adélie penguin colonies, many with large chicks. The colonies were surprisingly calm, with only the occasional call between partners breaking the silence.

Kayakers explored the narrow channels between islands, weaving through ice and enjoying close encounters with the Antarctic landscape. Meanwhile, the mountaineering team—cheered on by Gentoo penguins halfway up—successfully reached an altitude of 1,000 meters.

After lunch, guests gathered on deck and on the bridge to enjoy spectacular scenery as the ship carefully navigated heavy ice toward the iconic Lemaire Channel. Entering the channel required precise manoeuvring, but the captain and bridge team guided us safely past a massive iceberg and into the narrow passage.

Halfway through the Lemaire Channel, zodiacs were launched for a truly rare experience: a zodiac cruise through this dramatic corridor. Steep cliffs rose on both sides as we passed Gentoo penguins resting on ice, striking icebergs, and dense brash ice. Near the exit of the channel, we were rewarded with a sighting of a leopard seal resting on an ice floe.

The day concluded back onboard with a recap from Chloe and the expedition team, followed by another excellent dinner. An extraordinary Antarctic day and one that will be remembered by all.

We woke to a calm Antarctic morning, with soft light spreading across the ice and mountains outside. After breakfast, excitement built as we prepared for a continental landing at Neko Harbour, one of the highlights of the voyage. Named after the Scottish whaling ship Neko, which once operated in these waters, the harbour offered a powerful first impression of Antarctica’s scale and beauty.

Stepping ashore on the Antarctic continent was a special moment for many. People took the opportunity to have photos with the Antarctic flag, marking the occasion, while gentoo penguins wandered nearby, entirely unfazed by our presence. The landscape was dominated by towering glaciers and steep snow-covered slopes, and throughout the landing we were treated to several epic calvings. The thunderous cracks and splashes echoed around the harbour, a dramatic reminder of the constant movement shaping this icy environment.

Back on board, a vegetarian lunch was served as part of the ship’s sustainability initiative, and conversations buzzed with stories from the morning. The afternoon then took us into Paradise Harbour for a zodiac cruise around Brown Station. The light was beautifully diffused, softening the scenery and creating stunning reflections on the calm water. We passed the manned summer station, where scientists spend a short but intense season living and working in Antarctica.

Wildlife encounters added to the experience, including a leopard seal resting on the ice, drawing quiet admiration from the zodiacs as we drifted past. Ice floes moved slowly around us, enhancing the sense of stillness and scale. The afternoon ended on a joyful note when hotel manager Ingrid surprised everyone by appearing out at sea in the hot chocolate boat. Warm drinks were passed around, made even better with a splash of rum, and laughter carried across the water.

After dinner, we gathered for the daily recap, sharing highlights from both the landing and the cruise. It was a day defined by powerful landscapes, unexpected moments and the shared feeling that we had experienced Antarctica at its very best.

This morning we awoke to another beautiful day with calm and clear weather. Some snowflakes alternated with warm rays from the bright sun. Today the expedition team had planned a nice leg stretch at Damoy Point and in the afternoon we would visit the Port Lockroy or as the locals say, The Penguin Post Office!

After breakfast the zodiacs lined up to bring us ashore. Damoy is where we had one of our camping nights and it was great to be back. Damoy offers a scenic walk while passing several Gentoo penguin colonies. We enjoyed our walks through deep snow while the sun had started to shine abundantly. The walk was sort of triangular and led us towards the Damoy Heritage Hut. Damoy used to be an air transit station for scientists and explorers. The hut was built in 1973 and basically functioned as an airport waiting lounge. The planes would land on top of the glacier which made landing and taking of quite challenging in quickly changing wind and weather conditions.

Today the hut is a historic site which is preserved by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. It is allowed to have a look inside, so the expedition team opened the hut and it was great to see old artifacts, classic food products and the basic sleeping facilities.

Completing the walk, we enjoyed the sights of penguins and their incredibly cute chicks. What a beautiful morning!

In the afternoon we would go to the Penguin Post office, a wish that many of us shared. Immediately after lunch the Port Lockroy team came onboard for a brief presentation that gave us more historical insights, but it also explained more about the research that is conducted here.

Not too long after the first boats left for Port Lockroy whereas others first went on a zodiac cruise or a landing at nearby Jougla Point before going to the post office too. Jougla was filled with Gentoo chicks whereas the zodiac cruisers encountered some gentle humpback giants.

The wind had picked up a bit during the afternoon and that made the ride back to the ship a bit splashy, but that only added to the fun we had had today. We had seen the cutest little penguins, we managed to buy souvenirs and send postcards, and the weather had been incredible.

After recap the dining room was buzzing with excitement, and we couldn’t wait to see what tomorrow would bring us. Good night everyone!

Today is a sunny day. We woke up to a stunning, calm, clear sky on Monday, surrounded by white peaks and jagged mountains, as we anchored by Nansen and Enterprise Islands, the landscape took us all by surprise. It really is stunning. Zodicas cruise, enjoying some great whale encounters whilst the kayakers have the ‘history tour’ of Enterprise Island. It happens that this part of the Antarctic Peninsula was heavily exploited for whaling, and the landscape is peppered with historic artifacts and remains from the whaling period. Mooring chains, oil barrels, coal storage areas, and even a factory shipwreck, The Gøvernoren. When floating over its sunken hull is possible to identify some features of the ship and even a copious load of harpoon heads still piled high on the ship’s hull.

The climbers went up Enterprise Island and got the bird’s eye view of the safe haven and, like the rest of us, enjoyed the sunshine.

In the afternoon, after yet another delicious lunch we headed over to Palaver Point. This is a headland west of Hummock Island in Antarctica’s Palmer Archipelago famous for noisy Chinstrap colonies. The mountaineers had a great excursion today and so did the crew of Ortelius by Kayak. It seems a very fitting final operation for our trip. Everybody, guests and crew are very happy.

We are sailing back. No wake up calls this morning, we are now resting, everybody is tired after 7 intense operations days in the Antarctic. We have camped, mountaineered, kayaked and driven zodiacs around on a daily basis. It was very special, and we can feel the intensity in our bodies. We slept well last night. Today as we slowly wind down, we had a presentation by Aitana “Does planet earth have a heart?”, a story of ice, currents and courage.

Chloe talked to us about the love of her life…the wonderful drifting plankton. Later we returned our boots and Kohen and Matt gave us presentations on Humpback whales and Photography respectively.

Final sailing day, now the trip really is drawing to a close. We can see land in the distance and black-browed albatrosses fly past Ortelius. We primarily relax, connect and talk to other guests, share contact details and promise to see each other again. Some of us are already planning our next trip, the Arctic perhaps. As the journey really sinks in, we also have the chance to attend some presentations. Paolo talked to us about climate and what makes Antarctica the coldest, windiest, and driest continent on earth, we had the chance to discuss global warming and climate change. Joyce showed us more about what lies beneath the ship and life on the seabed. Svata, shared some of her dog sledding passion by telling us about “Dogs of Antarctica” and finally, Kohen talked to us about other trips offered by Oceanwide in the Arctic.

Later, we scrub up for our Captain’s farewell toast, trip slideshow and final plated dinner.

Our final wakeup call was made by Chloe, and we were asked to leave our big luggage in the corridor at 07:30, so the expedition team could take them all down for us and on to the pier. time. It was amazing how quickly these days whizzed by. We headed for breakfast and said goodbye to the dining room team who took such good care of us throughout the trip. We gathered our belongings and headed to the gangway to say goodbye to the crew, staff, and new friends we had made. Some of us hopped straight on the bus to the airport to head home, while others set off to explore Ushuaia and continue travelling in Patagonia. We got to see breathtaking landscapes of Antarctica. This trip really reminded us of the power of nature, and we saw firsthand just how wild and rugged Antarctica is. The highlights of this trip will stay in our thoughts for many years to come.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1723 nautical miles

Most southern point sailed: 65° 14’ S, 064° 08’ W

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Remmert Koster, Expedition Leader Chloé Maréchal, Hotel Manager Ingrid van de Loo and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it was a great pleasure and a privilege travelling with you!