OTL13-26, trip log, Around Spitsbergen incl. Nordaustlandet

Our expedition began in Longyearbyen, the gateway to Norway’s High Arctic region. Before boarding, many took the opportunity to wander through the small town, surrounded by dramatic mountains and the calm waters of Isfjorden. Despite its remote location and Arctic climate, Longyearbyen offered a warm and welcoming first impression.

In the afternoon, we boarded M/V Ortelius, where the expedition team and hotel staff welcomed everyone onboard. After settling into our cabins, we had time to get familiar with our new home as luggage was delivered and the ship prepared for departure. Once everyone had embarked, we gathered in the lounge for a mandatory ship safety briefing. This was followed by a familiarization with the emergency life vests and lifeboat stations under the guidance of the crew. With all formalities complete, Ortelius pulled away from the dock around 18:00 to start our journey around Spitsbergen and Nordaustlandet.

Meanwhile, we gathered in the lounge to meet key members of the onboard team. Hotel Manager Vova gave an introduction to the ship and onboard services. Our Swedish Captain, Per Andersson, followed up with a characteristically warm welcome and a toast to the voyage. Then Expedition Leader Ali gave an overview of our plans for the voyage and introduced the talented and highly experienced Expedition Team that would guide us over the coming days.

Then it was time for our first dinner, and an opportunity to get to know some of our fellow travelers. The evening concluded with the distribution of our expedition Muck Boots, essential equipment for the excursions to come. With preparations complete, and anticipation growing, many retired for the night as Ortelius made her way out of Isfjord. Those that remained up and about were rewarded with a fantastic view of dramatic Alkhornet bathed in soft light as Captain Per deliberately sailed in closer to the land than normal to take advantage of the scenery.

After sailing throughout the night, we awoke in Kings Bay, surrounded on both sides by mountains and glaciers.

Some people say that Ny-Ålesund is the capital of the history of the conquest of the North Pole by air - through airplanes and airships - and after having the opportunity to explore it, visit its museum, and walk through the very same places once visited more than once by Roald Amundsen, Umberto Nobile and Lincoln Ellsworth, it is certainly understandable why.

From here, on May 21st, 1925, Amundsen departed with aircrafts N-24 and N-25 on his unsuccessful attempt to reach the North Pole. Far from discouraging him, however, the experience inspired him to return the following year. In 1926, exactly one hundred years ago, he embarked aboard the airship N1 “NORGE” on the successful expedition during which they flew over the North Pole for the first time. On May 12th the three flags - Norwegian, American and Italian - were released over the drifting Arctic ice.

Two years later, Nobile would fly over the North Pole again, this time aboard another airship he had designed, the N4 “ITALIA”. On the ill-fated return journey, however, the Arctic ice claimed the lives of several members of his crew, as well as those who came to their rescue, including Amundsen’s life.

The 35m high mast where the airships were once moored seemed like an old iron sentinel, patiently awaiting the arrival of the next expedition.

Our walk through the settlement was delightful. We noticed that the residents were working indoors, probably at some of the many scientific research stations located here, representing around ten different countries. Apart from an occasional vehicle traveling along the dusty roads and a gentleman jogging in shorts and a T-shirt, silence and tranquility dominated our time there, interrupted only by the barking of dogs and the calls of a few birds making their presence known. We also spotted some seals along the coast and reindeer.

A visit to the museum, the store where many purchased a few souvenirs and the opportunity to send a postcard from the post office closest to the North Pole brought our first morning of the expedition to a successful start.

In the afternoon, a new adventure awaited us. After a short Zodiac ride from the position where the “ORTELIUS” had dropped anchor, we reached the coast of Ny London, an old mining settlement established by Ernest Mansfield. After discovering marble in the surrounding hills, he advised the Northern Exploration Company (NEC) to invest in its extraction around the 1910’s.

Although we were able to see only two of the houses still standing - the others were moved to Ny-Ålesund after the mining operations finally closed in 1920 - it was easy to imagine the enormous effort involved when standing in front of the old boilers, railway tracks, mine carts and the crane, which is still remarkably well preserved. Unfortunately, the marble extracted there was not of excellent quality. It contained cracks that caused the blocks to fracture more easily when exposed to higher temperatures during transport by ship to their eventual processing destination.

Our hikes, divided into three levels of difficulty, allowed us, depending on the route we chose, to see the old structures, several reindeer, various bird species, a beautiful meltwater waterfall and breathtaking landscapes featuring glaciers and deep blue seas under a sunny sky - not exactly the kind of weather one would expect this far into the calendar year.

Before dinner, Ali shared the plans for tomorrow’s activities with us, while Valeria gave us some tips on how to get the most out of our mobile phone cameras.

Monacobreen Glacier Zodiac Cruise

The morning was spent exploring the waters in front of Monacobreen Glacier, navigating carefully through a beautiful concentration of ice. The conditions were excellent, with light winds, good visibility, and beautiful Arctic light creating ideal conditions for viewing the glacier and surrounding landscape. The ice was particularly impressive, with a mixture of large pieces of glacial ice and darker, greenish marine ice. The contrast between the different types of ice made for an especially scenic cruise as we worked our way through the ice near the glacier front.

The area also provided excellent opportunities to observe the seabirds that make use of the productive waters around the glacier. Black-legged kittiwakes, northern fulmars, glaucous gulls, and Arctic terns were among the species observed, with the birds actively using the area around the ice and open water.

Texas Bar Landing

After lunch, we travelled to Texas Bar for an afternoon of hiking. The landing offered several options, allowing guests to spread out across the landscape according to their interests and abilities. The short and medium hikers explored different routes through the surrounding terrain, while the long hikers headed higher into the landscape. The strongest group climbed toward a high point and crossed over the saddle, gaining expansive views across the surrounding valleys and mountains.

A particularly special moment came during the afternoon when we had a sighting of a rare blue morph Arctic fox. The fox provided an unexpected wildlife highlight and added another memorable element to an already excellent afternoon ashore. After several hours of exploring in different directions, the groups gradually made their way back toward the beach. Everyone returned to the ship tired, satisfied, and ready for a well-deserved dinner after a full day in the Arctic landscape.

It was a classic Svalbard expedition day: glacier ice in the morning, seabirds and wildlife, beautiful light and conditions, followed by an afternoon of hiking, exploration, and an unexpected encounter with one of the Arctic’s more elusive animals.

During the night earlier, we began our northbound sail toward the ice pack where we would spend our day today. We arrived at the ice edge at around 06:00. Conditions were foggy and wet, making the visibility for spotting wildlife challenging but this did not discourage the guides and crew from keeping eyes peeled from the bridge at all hours in hopes of wildlife.

As the day went on, the fog came in and out, and the ice conditions changed between very thick and consistent to thin and spaced out, and back again. Occasionally we saw bearded seals in the water, and of course, plenty of different birds following the vessel such as Northern Fulmars, Kittiwakes (adults and juveniles), as well as Ivory Gulls and their juveniles which is quite rare. While we continued our search, guests were educated on topics of ice and polar bears through lectures with Aitana and Emily in the lounge. Around 15:30, just as Emily had finished speaking and suggested we head out on deck, as though it had been scheduled, a polar bear pulled itself out of the water less than 200 meters from the ship onto the ice. Captain immediately slowed down Ortelius and turned around. As everyone gathered out on deck, the bear stood up on the hind legs with nose in the air smelling us and showing to us that this was clearly a young female bear – likely 3-5 years of age. We spent over an hour with her as she was very curious, coming right to the bow of the ship for inspection of us. Again, she stood on two legs. A very curious bear and one of the favorites of the season. As she began to walk away and disappear into the ice, we celebrated with hot chocolate and rum on the bridge deck.

Our day began with a gentle wake-up call at 7:15 from our Expedition Leader, Ali, who shared the outside temperature and weather conditions. It was a beautiful morning with calm seas - we had arrived at Phippsøya.

However, there was an important addition to the morning announcement: the guides had spotted a polar bear ashore. Several of us made our way to the Bridge, where we were able to watch the bear casually strolling along the rocks — remarkably close to where we had planned to land.

With a polar bear occupying our landing site, our plans had to change. For the safety of both the bear and ourselves, the landing was cancelled and Ortelius repositioned to Chermsideøya. Here, some of the guides headed out by Zodiac to investigate a beluga whale carcass and, importantly, to check whether any bears were in the area. They found the carcass still there and almost completely intact.

Back onboard, plan B was announced - we would attempt a landing before lunch. The expedition team headed ashore to scout the site. They had not been gone long when another announcement came over the PA system: a polar bear had been spotted onshore — and it had walked right where we were due to land! It was a reminder of why our guides scout so thoroughly. Their role is not only to keep us safe, but also to ensure that we do not disturb the wildlife we have come here to experience. And so, Plan B was cancelled. A short while after the staff returned to the ship, the bear could be seen from the comfort and safety of Ortelius. Sure enough, there she was — a female polar bear strolling along our intended landing site.

After a bear-filled morning, we enjoyed a delicious buffet lunch while Ortelius repositioned for our afternoon operations… Plan C!

We arrived at Lågøya for a Zodiac cruise. As we made our way down the gangway, the wind was gusting over 25 knots, making the embarkation a little lively. Wrapped up warmly, we headed out and were very lucky to add Atlantic walrus to our wildlife lists. Some were hauled out, huddled together on the beach, one enormous male rolled down the shore and into the water. Others swimming nearby, their curious heads popping above the water to get a better look. Along the shoreline and overhead, we observed Arctic terns and glaucous gulls, with the terns occasionally diving into the water to snatch prey from below the surface. The wind gradually died down, leaving us with a fabulous afternoon.

Back onboard, we gathered for our evening recap where Emily gave us a presentation on walrus, Ali briefed us on the plans for the following day, and Aline gave us a lesson in Norwegian, helping us understand the meaning behind some of the place names here in Svalbard. After dinner, many of us gathered in the bar to relax and reflect on an extraordinary day. Outside, fog and rain had settled in, creating a suitably Arctic atmosphere, whilst we watched Disney’s Polar Bear movie to wrap up another day of expedition.

Our day began with a 07:15 wake-up call and another beautiful morning in the High Arctic. The weather was on our side, and after enjoying a delicious breakfast in the Dining Room, we wrapped up warmly and prepared ourselves for our first adventure of the day: a Zodiac cruise at the spectacular Alkefjellet.

Alkefjellet is one of Svalbard’s most impressive seabird cliffs, rising more than 100 metres almost vertically from the waters of Hinlopen Strait. Its striking rock formations provide nesting ledges for huge numbers of seabirds, particularly Brünnich’s guillemots and black-legged kittiwakes during the breeding season. By late August, most of the Brünnich’s guillemots had already left their colonies and begun their migration, but even without them, the towering cliffs remained a spectacular sight.

We boarded our Zodiacs and cruised beneath the dramatic cliffs, surrounded by the characteristic basaltic columns that make this place so impressive. Waterfalls of glacial meltwater tumbled down the dark rock faces and mixed with the green seawater below, creating beautiful swirls of milky-coloured water.

And then came the wildlife!

Near the glacier, we spotted a beautiful white Arctic fox walking along the shoreline. We watched it moving through the landscape, apparently searching for food to cache for the months ahead. Soon there was another fox... and then another! By the end of our Zodiac cruise, we had spotted an incredible six Arctic foxes. Even our guides were amazed by such an extraordinary number of sightings in one morning.

Glaucous gulls and thousands of black-legged kittiwakes brought movement and sound to the enormous cliffs. Although the Brünnich’s guillemots had already departed from their nesting ledges for the season, Alkefjellet had lost none of its magic. Between the towering cliffs, waterfalls, glaciers, birds, foxes, and beautiful conditions, there seemed to be something to discover everywhere we looked.

Eventually, it was time to return to the ship, where a delicious lunch was waiting for us. With full stomachs and plenty of stories from the morning, we continued sailing through Hinlopen Strait towards our next adventure: Torellneset.

Located on the southwestern coast of Nordaustlandet, Torellneset introduced us to a completely different face of Svalbard. Here, the lush areas associated with bird cliffs disappeared and the landscape became a true High Arctic polar desert, dominated by exposed rock, gravel, and very sparse vegetation. The wide-open terrain, distant mountains and glaciers created an almost otherworldly landscape. It is also a well-known area for Atlantic walruses, which use coastal sites such as this to haul out and rest.

Once ashore, we divided as usual into three groups: long, medium, and leisure hikers.

Our long hikers stretched their legs across the rocky terrain and reached a viewpoint overlooking the magnificent Mariebreen Glacier. The medium hikers explored a landscape that seemed almost Martian, taking time to enjoy the scenery and listen to stories from their guides along the way. Meanwhile, our leisure hikers followed the coastline at a relaxed pace, enjoying a peaceful afternoon beside the Arctic Ocean.

And, of course, we were hoping to meet some of Torellneset's most famous residents.

At first, several walruses were swimming close to the shoreline. We watched them appearing and disappearing among the waves until, suddenly, a group decided to haul out onto the beach. It was a wonderful moment. We had plenty of time to observe these enormous and charismatic Arctic animals together, adding yet another memorable wildlife encounter to an already remarkable day.

But the Arctic always had the final word.

While we had been exploring ashore, the already windy conditions had intensified considerably. The sea had become increasingly rough, and large waves were now breaking onto our original landing site, making Zodiac operations there impossible. We therefore moved to the opposite side of the beach, where the Expedition Team worked to establish a safer place from which to get everyone back aboard.

What followed was a true expedition operation. The ship repositioned, while members of the Expedition Team worked together in the water as “catchers,” sometimes standing in water up to their waists to hold and stabilize the Zodiacs. At the same time, other guides continued scouting the surrounding landscape for any polar bears that might approach. One Zodiac at a time, and with plenty of teamwork, we gradually made our way safely back to the ship.

After almost six hours of operations ashore, the last members of the Expedition Team finally returned on board. It had been demanding and exhausting work, but also an impressive demonstration of teamwork and of how quickly plans could adapt to the changing conditions of the High Arctic.

And their timing could hardly have been better – the barbecue was already on!

We were treated to a truly Arctic dinner on deck. The wind was strong, but spirits were even stronger, and the delicious food tasted especially good after such an adventurous afternoon.

But the evening was not finished yet.

After dinner, the tables were moved aside and the dancing began! As the ship sailed towards calmer waters, the remaining swell added an unexpected challenge to our dance moves. We laughed, danced, and tried to keep our balance, feeling like true sailors as the movement of the ship provided some extra choreography.

From the spectacular cliffs of Alkefjellet and an incredible six Arctic foxes, to the polar desert of Torellneset, walruses on the beach, an adventurous Zodiac operation, an Arctic barbecue, and dancing on a moving ship, this had been a true expedition day from beginning to end.

We finished the evening tired, happy, and with memories that would stay with us for a lifetime.

Our original plan for today was a morning landing at Sundneset, followed by a perimeter landing at Diskobukta in the afternoon. The Arctic, however, had other plans for us.

Our wake-up call came a little earlier than expected, around 06:45 instead of the planned 07:15, with the news that there were belugas in the area. Not a bad reason to get out of bed early!

As we approached Sundneset and started scouting for our landing, we spotted three polar bears on the hill. We believe they were the same family we had seen in the area last week and, most importantly, all three were still there. They survived!

After spending some time watching the bears, we headed for breakfast and decided not to land at Sundneset. The bears were simply too close, so it was time to move on and see what else the day had in store for us.

On our way towards our next destination, another two polar bears were spotted near Kapp Lee. Our Expedition Leader, Ali, quickly changed plans and decided on an impromptu Zodiac cruise.

The day was grey and gloomy, but the prospect of seeing polar bears from the Zodiacs made the weather considerably less important. The bears were close enough for some great views and photographs, and after spending some time with them we continued around the corner to visit the walruses.

While cruising around Kapp Lee, we also talked about some of the people who have used this remote outpost over the years, particularly the Dutch scientists who worked here during the 1960s. One of those scientists would later become one of the founders of Oceanwide Expeditions, giving Kapp Lee an interesting connection to the company we are travelling with today.

The walruses were particularly curious, giving us some wonderful encounters from the Zodiacs. Before heading back to the ship, we decided to return to the bears for one last look. By then, they were getting closer to each other and it looked as though we might see some interaction. Eventually, the smaller bear decided it was time to leave and ran away, making us think we were probably watching two males, with one more dominant than the other. What an encounter!

After lunch, we arrived at Diskobukta. The weather had cleared somewhat, although we could still see fog sitting in the distance. The guides headed ashore to scout, and once everything was clear, we began shuttling guests to the landing site.

About half of our guests were already ashore when the radio suddenly came alive.

“Polar bear, polar bear, polar bear.”

Rustyn’s distinctive voice was calling a bear on land.

That meant only one thing: we had to evacuate the landing site.

All the Zodiacs immediately returned to shore and, in a very efficient operation, everyone was safely evacuated and taken back to the ship. As we were wrapping up the evacuation, the fog began spilling down into the landing site and the surrounding hills slowly disappeared from view. It seemed like a very good moment to be heading back aboard.

With our afternoon landing officially cancelled, the expedition team offered a miscellany of mini lectures instead, including two talks about belugas, one about birds and another about Arctic foxes.

We finished the day with our daily recap before a delicious buffet dinner was served in the dining room.

Belugas, walruses, six polar bears, an unexpected Zodiac cruise, an evacuation and Arctic fog swallowing the hills. Our plans may have changed more than once today, but that is very much part of travelling in this part of the world.

What an exciting day in the Arctic!

‘Good morning, good morning, everyone’. This morning we started our day with an early landing at Gåshamna, where several hikes were organised. Everyone could enjoy the beautiful beach, the mountain climb, or gentle slopes at their own pace. Gåshamna is well known for the remains of whales that can be found on the beach of the landing site. The whale bones and ruins are associated with the Pomors (Russian trappers). We had a lovely morning at Gåshamna, and everyone was very impressed with the remains that could be observed. We enjoyed the beautiful views of the bay where our second home, M/V Ortelius, was waiting for our return.

During lunch, we repositioned M/V Ortelius to our next destination: Burgerbukta. We spent our afternoon in Burgerbukta, where several lovely waterfalls can be observed alongside the glacier. The cliffs on the side of the bay were impressive, and iron-deposits were visible. All Zodiacs truly enjoyed the experience of cruising through the brash ice; hearing and listening to the ice, the release of air in the ice, and the sounds of occasional calvings.

Back on board, we enjoyed the briefing from our Expedition Leader Ali about our plans for our final day of exploration the next day. Hotel Manager Volva and Captain Per also came on stage for brief instructions and information for the following day.

Our last full expedition day in Svalbard began hidden beneath a blanket of fog. When the wake-up call came at 07:15, visibility outside was limited, leaving us wondering what the Arctic had planned for us. But while we enjoyed another delicious breakfast on board, conditions began to improve. Slowly, the fog lifted, revealing the landscape around us and giving us the opportunity we had been hoping for: our morning landing at Alkhornet was on!

Alkhornet is one of the most impressive bird cliffs on the western side of Spitsbergen, rising dramatically above Isfjorden. During the breeding season, its steep cliffs provide nesting sites for thousands of seabirds, particularly black-legged kittiwakes and Brünnich’s guillemots. The nutrients brought by all these birds fertilize the slopes below, creating unusually rich tundra that attracts Svalbard reindeer and, in turn, Arctic foxes searching for opportunities around the colony.

Once ashore, we divided into our usual three hiking groups – long, medium, and leisure – and set off to explore this beautiful landscape at our own pace.

Wherever we walked, the sounds of the bird cliff accompanied us. Kittiwakes filled the air with their calls, bringing life and movement to the towering landscape above. On the grassy slopes, we encountered Svalbard reindeer quietly walking and feeding on the vegetation, seemingly unconcerned by our presence.

Some of us were particularly lucky and spotted Arctic foxes moving amongst the rocks below the cliffs. We watched as they searched for opportunities among the birds, a wonderful chance to observe the relationship between predator and prey in this remarkable Arctic ecosystem.

Eventually, it was time for another important moment – and for some of us, perhaps the bravest moment of the entire voyage!

The Polar Plunge!

Those willing to take the challenge changed into their swimsuits and prepared themselves for a very quick encounter with the icy Arctic waters. There were screams, laughter, surprised faces, and plenty of encouragement from those watching safely from shore. It was cold, it was crazy, and it was certainly memorable. After taking the plunge, we could officially say that we really felt like polar explorers!

Back aboard, a warm shower had rarely felt so good. We then gathered in the Dining Room for another delicious lunch while the ship repositioned towards the destination of our final landing of the voyage: Ymerbukta.

Ymerbukta is a beautiful bay on the northern side of Isfjorden, stretching approximately six kilometres towards Esmarkbreen. This impressive glacier flows down from Oscar II Land and forms the dramatic backdrop to the bay. Surrounded by mountains, glacial moraines, meltwater streams, and exposed terrain shaped by the movement and retreat of the ice, it was a fitting landscape for our final steps ashore in Svalbard.

For the afternoon, we enjoyed a perimeter landing. Our guides positioned themselves strategically around the area, keeping watch over the surrounding landscape and allowing us the freedom to explore safely within the marked routes.

We could choose our own little adventure. Following one route, we walked across the moraine towards the foot of Esmarkbreen, getting closer to the impressive glacier and appreciating its scale from ground level. In the other direction, we climbed a small mountain to reach a viewpoint overlooking the bay. From the top, we were rewarded with magnificent views across Ymerbukta, the glacier, the surrounding mountains, and the waters of Isfjorden. 

There was something particularly special about this afternoon. We knew that every step was taking us closer to the end of our final landing, and after everything we had experienced together during the voyage, it was difficult not to feel a little emotional.

Eventually, the moment came. We walked back towards the beach, climbed into our Zodiacs one more time, and made our way back to the ship. Our last landing of this incredible expedition was complete.

But the day – and our celebration – was far from over.

Instead of our traditional evening recap, we gathered in the Lounge for the Captain’s Cocktail. It was quite a transformation to see the Expedition Team, whom we had become accustomed to seeing in expedition gear, rubber boots, lifejackets, and waterproof trousers, suddenly looking so smart and elegant!

Captain Per welcomed us and raised a glass to our voyage before one final piece of ship memorabilia went looking for a new home: the ship’s flag. An entertaining auction followed, giving one lucky guest the opportunity to take home a very special souvenir from our journey.

Our Expedition Leader Ali then shared a few words about the adventure we had experienced together before Brenya presented a beautiful slideshow of our voyage. As photographs from the previous days appeared on the screen, we relived so many moments – landscapes, wildlife, laughter, landings, Zodiacs, and all the unexpected experiences that had made our expedition unique. Seeing everything together made those memories feel even more special.

Then came time for our final dinner on board.

Once again, we enjoyed a delicious meal prepared by the wonderful galley team. During the evening, we also had the opportunity to meet and thank the complete Hotel Department – the people who had worked tirelessly behind the scenes throughout our voyage, making our time aboard so comfortable and ensuring that we were always so well looked after.

Later, we gathered for our last drinks at the bar. We shared photographs, exchanged stories and contact details, laughed about our adventures, and remembered favorite moments from the journey.

Our expedition was arriving at its end, but the experiences we had shared were not ending with it. We had explored wild landscapes, encountered extraordinary wildlife, faced the changing Arctic weather, travelled together by Zodiac, walked across the tundra, stood beside glaciers, laughed together, and created friendships and memories along the way.

Tomorrow we would return to Longyearbyen and say our goodbyes.

But Svalbard – and this incredible journey together – would remain in our minds for the rest of our lives.

At 05:00 the anchor was heaved and Ortelius steamed the last few miles to Longyearbyen. A few early birds joined Chief Officer Warren on the bridge for the final views of the coast as we sailed deeper into Isfjorden. While docked at the main pier, we woke up one last time to Ali’s calm voice. We put our check luggage outside our cabins and headed for one final breakfast buffet. Outside, it was another bright day and the waters around Longyearbyen were quiet. The expedition team moved our luggage onto the pier, and then it was time to disembark. We made sure our luggage was loaded on to the correct truck and that we were on the right bus, heading for either the airport or town. It was time to say goodbye to the expedition team and crew onboard, and to our fellow travelers and new friends. What an amazing journey this has been, exploring the Arctic wilderness. With unforgettable memories we were ready to travel home or perhaps move on to new adventures. It was with a heavy heart that we bid farewell to m/v Ortelius, our home from home, for the last 9 days.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1,141 nautical miles

Farthest north: 81°41.0’ N, 019°05.6’ E

Your Oceanwide Expedition Team

Standing (L-R): Doctor Eva, Emily, Aitana, Ali, Susanne, Brenya, Valeria, Aline. Seated (L-R): Marcelo, Rustyn.