HDS24-25, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp

Our first day of the expedition began, with everyone coming aboard excited to go to Antarctica. After settling into our cabins and confirming that our luggage had arrived safely, most of us drifted into the lounge where tea and coffee were waiting. The mood was bright and chatty as people compared cabins and swapped stories about how long they had dreamed of making this journey. We were called to the lounge by our Expedition Leader Chris, to first inform us about some matters of safety.

As we began the drill, we all gathered and put on our life jackes, oddly reassuring that we now know what to do in an emergency. After the drill, Captain Ernesto invited us into the observation lounge with an inspiring welcome speech. Chris explained some what to expect from our adventure, and the expedition team also introduced themselves; 25 guides with each their speciality! With that done, we quickly went to the buffet dinner, meeting new people and exchanging stories.

As evening settled in we met again at 20:30 for the zodiac and IAATO briefing. The reality of what lay ahead began to land as we learned how we would move around in the days to come. By then we could already feel a gentle roll underfoot, and some of us took extra precautions by paying the doctor a visit for some seasickness medication. There was a steady flow of passengers exchanging wry smiles as they collected tablets and advice.

Before turning in for the night we secured our belongings as instructed, aware that we would be sailing into open sea within hours. The ship creaked softly and a few mugs rattled on their saucers as we made our way back to our cabins. It felt like the true beginning of the adventure a mix of anticipation, sea breeze and the pleasant uncertainty of what the next days would bring.

Today's programme was filled with preparations for our visit to Antarctica. On our second day at sea, we received our first 'Good Morning, Good Morning!' wake-up call and began our crossing through the Drake Passage. The waves, around 2 or 3 metres high, gave us an idea of what the famous 'Drake' is like. Although it was not too rough for some of us, it was still relentless.

After breakfast, we attended two of the three mandatory briefings that we had to attend in order to prepare for kayaking, mountaineering and camping: Adam and Alexis covered kayaking, while Johnny, Ed, Andy and Paul covered mountaineering.

Next on our daily schedule was lunch.

Basecamp trips offer lots of additional activities, and the final compulsory briefing about camping with Luce, Brian and Sasha made us eager to sleep outside! Midway through the presentation, we were treated to a rare sight: a pair of Southern Bottlenose Whales.

In the afternoon, Matt invited us to a photography lecture where he shared all his tips and tricks for capturing the best photos of our incredible trip.

Later, we all gathered in the lounge again for a daily recap. Koen presented the plans for the following day and talked about the Antarctic Convergence. Alexis taught us about 'loss of body heat', and finally, Hana told us about the Drake Passage.

After another delicious dinner, everyone was excited about crossing the Drake Passage again the following day and getting closer to our destination: Antarctica!

Our second and final day at the Drake Passage! We woke up with quite some fog; as Koen explained in the recap last night, that is because we are crossing the Antarctic Convergence Zone. This is a zone of approximately 10-30 km wide, which marks the biological transition to Antarctic waters. Due to the shift in water temperature (several degrees lower) fog can often occur.

We started our day with the signup for activities, as we all wanted a chance to go mountaineering, camping, or kayaking! Not only that, but we also got finally the chance to fit ourselves to a pair of muckboots, our new best friend in Antarctica. Meanwhile, the fog did not lift yet and there was not much wildlife (yet).

We were also busy cleaning for the biosecurity check, as we know how important it is to not bring any exotic species new into Antarctica. At around 2, the misty landscape seemed to disappear and we were surrounded by more birds, like fulmars and even some albatrosses as we got closer to Antarctica.

And then finally, our first big wildlife! Our bridge officer Eline spotted a group of vinwhales, and was thus announced. Most people ran outside and they were not disappointed. These enormous animals were quite close to the ship, and even after the first main group disappeared, several more were spotted. Vin whales are recognizable by their long, smooth backs. After this excitement, our own expert birder on board, Mark, gave a lecture. We learned about the penguins we might encounter in Antarctica and how they differ from each other. That was already almost the day!

During recap, Gabi told some of the backstory of our ship Hondius, namely about the Dutch cartographer Joost de Hondius, after which the ship was named. Our expedition leader Chris showed us the plans for tomorrow; how exciting, our first landing!

Our first day in Antarctica is finally here! We began the morning at Danco Island, greeted by calm seas and crisp Antarctic light. The day unfolded in motion: zodiacs slipped quietly along the coastline while our mountaineers split into two groups—one heading out on a scenic hike, the other taking on ice climbing routes. At the same time, our kayakers fanned out across the bay, tracing gentle lines through the ice-dotted water.

In two rotating groups, we alternated between zodiac cruising and time ashore, swapping halfway through the morning. For many of us, this first landing in Antarctica was unforgettable—close encounters with gentoo penguins bustling about their colonies and Weddell seals resting lazily on the ice made the moment feel almost unreal.

After a hearty lunch back on board, we set our sights on the Orne Islands. Once again, we explored from every angle: on foot along the ridges, quietly by kayak, and by zodiac along the dramatic shoreline. Gentoo penguins were everywhere, and we were thrilled to spot a few Adélies as well, their sharp contrast and lively behavior standing out against the landscape.

As the day seemed to be winding down, Antarctica had one more surprise for us. A pod of orcas appeared, moving swiftly through the water. To give ourselves the best possible view, we turned Hondius around and lingered, watching these powerful predators as long as we could before they disappeared into the distance—an epic and humbling end to an already extraordinary day.

After dinner, the adventure continued for some of us as the first group of campers departed for Stony Point, setting off to spend a quiet, remote, and thrilling night ashore—Antarctica at its most raw and intimate.

Today, we woke up to Chris wishing us a good morning and letting us know that the plan had changed slightly. We would start the day at what was originally our afternoon site: Stoney Point.

Upon arrival, we boarded the zodiacs for a cruise and a landing. As there is no wildlife recorded at this site, we were free to do all the crazy things we cannot do at other landing spots. Everyone embraced the moment : playing in the snow, throwing snowballs, and before long, it felt like each of us had joined a snowball fight at one point or another. It awakened our inner child; it was pure fun.

The views at Stoney Point were just as memorable. We listened to the powerful sounds of a glacier calving and watched a few icebergs slowly flip in the distance. Sitting there for a few hours, simply appreciating the stillness of Antarctica, felt like a gift.

After a wonderful buffet lunch, topped off with ice cream, we enjoyed a short break before heading out for a landing and zodiac cruise at Orne Harbour. This was our continental landing—our first time stepping onto the Antarctic continent, and for some of us, the seventh continent!

After a quick photo with the flag, we began our steep ascent to the top of Orne Harbour. It was definitely challenging for some, but every step was rewarded upon reaching the summit. Standing there, surrounded by the immensity of Antarctica, with a full 360-degree view of the white continent, only one word came to mind: spectacular.

We ended the day with a lovely dinner, while whales passing by pulled us away from the dining room, entertaining us well into the evening before bedtime.

Once again, an amazing day aboard Hondius—our window into this extraordinary part of the world. We fell asleep with our heads full of new memories, ready to create many more tomorrow.

The day began pre breakfast bathed in sunlight as the expedition vessel glided quietly into the legendary Lemaire Channel. Known for its dramatic cliffs and narrow passage, the channel was at its most breathtaking. Jagged mountains rose steeply from the sea, their snow-covered peaks perfectly mirrored in the flat, glassy water below. The stillness was broken only by the distant thunder of small avalanches cascading down the slopes, a powerful reminder that this frozen landscape is constantly in motion. Early risers were rewarded with the sight of a Leopard Seal hauled out on an ice floe, lazily surveying the passing ship as the Antarctic morning unfolded.

By mid-morning, the expedition arrived at Pleneau Island under flawless conditions. The sea remained flat calm, the sun illuminating every detail of the surrounding ice and rock. A bustling Gentoo Penguin colony was in full swing, with nesting birds tending to their carefully arranged pebble nests while others came and went from the colony, porpoising through the water on foraging trips. Nearby, a Southern Elephant Seal rested on the rocks, while a Weddell seal cruised slowly through the adjacent shallows. On a nearby ice floe, a Crabeater seal lay stretched out, steaming gently as it dried in the warm sun. Just offshore, a Leopard Seal patrolled a small piece of ice, its sleek form moving effortlessly through the clear water. Adding to the spectacle, several Humpback Whales were spotted feeding in the bay, while others rested motionless at the surface, appearing to sleep between breaths.

The afternoon brought the expedition to historic Petermann Island, where both Adélie and Gentoo penguin colonies dotted the landscape. The contrast between the two species was evident as they went about their daily routines amid the snow and rock. Visitors also paused at the Argentine hut, a quiet reminder of the human history woven into this remote region. Offshore, Humpback Whales continued to make appearances, their blows visible against the blue sky. A Leopard Seal lounged atop an ice floe near by, while another proved especially curious, weaving through the water around the zodiacs and offering unforgettable close encounters. Scattered across the ice were Crabeater and Weddell seals, resting peacefully on their floating platforms.

Towering arched icebergs framed the scene, their sculpted forms glowing in every imaginable shade of blue and green. As the light softened and the afternoon waned, the day stood out as a perfect example of Antarctic exploration at its finest—rich wildlife encounters, pristine conditions, and awe-inspiring scenery combining to create an unforgettable expedition cruise experience.

Later in the evening the evening the final group of campers were dropped off at Hovgaard Island for their Antarctic camping experience.

The day began with a wake-up call at 07:15, followed by a buffet breakfast served in the Dining Room between 07:30 and 08:30.

During the morning, conditions allowed for zodiac operations around Jougla Point and the Jougla & Goudier Islands. Guests participated in zodiac cruises, enjoying close views of nesting Gentoo Penguins, Imperial Cormorants, Weddell Seals, and sightings of Humpback Whales feeding in the surrounding waters. From the zodiacs, guests observed Goudier Island, home to Port Lockroy, an important historic site in Antarctica. Port Lockroy was established in 1944 as part of Operation Tabarin, a British wartime initiative to maintain a permanent presence in the Antarctic. The base later became a scientific research station and is now preserved as a museum and post office, administered by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. Although the site was closed to landings this morning, its historic huts and sheltered harbor were visible from the water, offering insight into early Antarctic exploration and research life.

Specialist activities, including mountaineering and kayaking, were conducted during the morning in accordance with conditions and group schedules.

Lunch was served as a buffet in the Dining Room on Deck 4 between 12:30 and 13:30.

In the afternoon, the expedition relocated to Damoy Point, where guests participated in landings and zodiac cruises. The site provided excellent opportunities to observe Gentoo Penguins, Weddell Seals, and dramatic Antarctic scenery. Guests enjoyed a longer walk ashore and visited the remains of a historic hut.

Damoy Point holds notable historical significance, having been used during the 1970s as a British Antarctic Survey transit station. The nearby hut supported an airstrip on the adjacent snow slope, enabling ski-equipped aircraft to transport personnel and supplies between ships and inland research stations. This logistical operation played an important role in Antarctic exploration prior to the establishment of more permanent infrastructure.

At 18:30, guests gathered in the Observation Lounge for the daily recap led by the Expedition Team, reviewing the day’s activities, wildlife encounters, and historical highlights.

The evening continued with a festive Antarctic BBQ dinner served on the aft of Deck 5 at 19:00. Following the BBQ, a lively dancing party took place onboard, with strong participation from guests, expedition staff, and crew members alike. The atmosphere was energetic and joyful, with many guests dancing together late into the evening, making it a truly fantastic night and a memorable highlight of the voyage.

We started our day early with a morning wake-up call. Outside, the weather was cloudy, but still very beautiful. Soon after breakfast, we arrived at Foyn Harbour. This place is quiet and surrounded by ice, mountains, and cold water. After getting ready, we went out on a zodiac cruise. The small boats moved slowly around the island, giving us a close look at the area.

While cruising, we learned about the history of the shipwreck Governoren. This old whaling ship burned and sank here 110 years ago. Even though the ship is gone, the story is still very interesting and shows how hard life was for early explorers and whalers in Antarctica. As we went around the island, we saw amazing wildlife. A leopard seal was resting on the ice and swimming in the water, watching us as we passed by. We also saw whales swimming in the distance, coming up for air. Large glaciers stood tall around us, with blue and white ice shining even under the cloudy sky.

After the zodiac cruise, we returned to the ship for lunch. A great meal was waiting for us, and it felt nice to warm up inside after being out in the cold. We had time to relax before heading out again for the afternoon activity.

Later, we went back out to Portal Point for another landing on the Antarctic continent. Walking on the snow was exciting, and the views were incredible. We could walk around freely, enjoy the quiet, and take photos. From this spot, we had a beautiful view into Wilhelmina Bay, with ice, water, and mountains all around us.

After the landing, we went zodiac cruising again. This time, we saw more seals resting on ice floes and on land. Also penguins swimming and jumping in the water. There were many icebergs of different shapes and sizes, making the scene feel magical and peaceful.

In the evening, we returned to the ship for a recap of the day. The guides shared information and stories about what we had seen. After that, we enjoyed dinner together. Tired but happy from a full day of adventure, we went to bed, ready for the next day in Antarctica.

The day started early, with that special buzz in the air that tells you this is no ordinary day. This was a true expedition day. We were heading into the unknown, exploring places new to many of us. And that, after all, is what expedition life is all about: explore, discover, and see what the day reveals. It did not disappoint.

Our destination was Cape Roquemaurel, and the plan was a full-ship Zodiac cruise. Once the Zodiacs were lowered and we set off, it was clear we were beginning a journey none of us would forget.

We first glided past enormous tabular icebergs, some carved with delicate arches that looked like frozen sculptures, glowing in incredible shades of shiny blue. Each iceberg felt like a work of art, shaped by wind, water, and time.

As we continued cruising, we realized we were not alone. Rafts of penguins appeared, following us with great curiosity. They leapt out of the water and swam beneath our boats completely fearlessly.

Above and around us, Cape petrels and fulmars put on their own lively show, fighting for krill in the plankton-rich waters. The scene was already spectacular—but nature was not finished yet; we had yet an amazing experience with whales feeding to experience.

The water around us felt alive. Huge humpback whales were feeding everywhere, and before we could fully take it in, they were all around us. Wherever we looked—left, right, straight ahead—there was a whale. From our floating Zodiacs, we watched them surface unbelievably close, close enough to hear the powerful rush of air as they exhaled through their blowholes. That deep, booming sound echoed across the sea.

It was one of those moments when time seemed to stand still. Surrounded by ice, wildlife, and giants of the ocean, we were reminded exactly why we explore.

Our afternoon destination was yet another true expedition adventure. The ship remained at a safe distance from the island, as we were navigating uncharted waters. From there, we set out by Zodiac to explore Astrolabe Island. Named after the ship Astrolabe of a French expedition, it gave us a small taste of what it must have felt like to discover a brand-new location for the first time.

We cruised slowly through narrow channels, weaving between icebergs where seals were stretched out and resting peacefully. Penguins gathered in lively colonies on rocky outcrops, watching our Zodiacs pass by as if we were part of the scenery.

Eventually, we landed on the island—and were greeted in the most joyful way imaginable. All three penguin species welcomed us at once: Gentoo, Chinstrap, and Adélie penguins, sharing the same space on the beaches. Seals lounged lazily along the shore, while curious penguins followed us as we walked around.

As if the day had not already given us enough magic, whales returned in the afternoon to say hello once more, appearing offshore and reminding us how special this place truly is. Another day filled with sunshine, another day in paradise.

The day started with our arrival at Deception Island, one of the most special places in Antarctica. The ship slowly sailed through a very narrow entrance called Neptune’s Bellows. Tall rock walls stood on one side, and it felt like entering a hidden world. Deception Island is actually an active volcano, with the sea filling the middle of it. The views were dramatic and unforgettable.

After entering the island, we went out for a landing and zodiac cruise at Whalers Bay. This place has a long and interesting history. Many years ago, it was used by whalers who hunted whales and processed them here. Later, it also became a research station. Old buildings, rusted tanks, and remains of the past can still be seen along the beach. Walking there felt like stepping back in time.

On the beach, we noticed a lot of dead krill washed up on the sand. It was surprising to see so much of it in one place. Some brave guests decided to take part in the polar plunge. Around 140 people jumped into the cold Antarctic water. Even though the water was freezing, the sand felt warm under our feet because of the volcanic heat below the surface.

After this exciting morning, we returned to the ship for lunch. While we ate, the ship started a long transit toward Edinburgh Hill. During the crossing, we joined a photography workshop with Matt. He shared helpful tips on how to edit photos. It was a nice and relaxing way to spend the afternoon.

Later, we had the daily recap, where the guides talked about the plans and what we had seen. After that, we prepared to go out again. However, the wind became very strong, reaching around 35 knots, which made it unsafe to drive arount Edinburgh Hill. The plan changed, and we sailed to Half Moon Island instead.

At Half Moon Island, we enjoyed our last zodiac cruise in Antarctica. We saw a Weddell seal resting on land, a large elephant seal on the shore, and many penguins swimming and standing along the beach. A minke whale also appeared near the zodiacs, giving us a special final wildlife moment. Icebergs and glaciers surrounded us, making the scenery perfect for our last outing.

Back on the ship, we had dinner together and shared memories from the trip. Later that evening, the ship began sailing into the Drake Passage, marking the end of our Antarctic adventure.

Today was a classic Drake Passage day — no wake-up call, no rush, just the gentle movement of the ship and the familiar reminder to keep one hand for the vessel. Most of us woke slowly, rocked in and out of sleep before wandering down to breakfast. The swell was actually nice and flat, which was very well received by almost everyone on board, particularly those grateful for calm seas. That said, a few adventurous souls were slightly disappointed, hoping for a proper “Drake Shake” to film and brag about later.

After breakfast, we gathered in the Observation Lounge where Koen kicked things off with a fascinating talk on the exploration of Antarctica. Hearing about the early explorers while travelling these same waters really put their achievements into perspective. Their resilience, optimism and sheer determination felt especially relevant as we made our own way south, albeit in far greater comfort.

Later in the morning, Carina gave us a behind-the-scenes look at Hondius. Her talk offered a real appreciation for what goes on beyond what we see as guests, from the logistics to the daily teamwork required to keep an expedition ship running smoothly in such a remote environment.

Lunch was a relaxed affair, with plenty of time to refuel and swap stories. The calm seas made it easy to linger over meals or spend time gazing out at the endless Southern Ocean, watching the low swell roll by.

In the afternoon, Sasha’s talk on how to get to Antarctica struck a perfect balance between informative and entertaining. His practical insights were made even more memorable by the legendary mention of his “fur underpants”, which earned plenty of laughs and lightened the mood.

As the day drew to a close, the expedition team hosted the daily recap, sharing important information about the days ahead, including details around disembarkation and settling accounts. It was a helpful and grounding moment to bring everyone together and look ahead.

Dinner followed, unhurried and social, before the evening wrapped up with Edward sharing his life story of climbing Mount Vinson. His reflections on challenge, endurance and success were genuinely inspiring and a fitting way to end the day.

With the Drake behaving itself and spirits high on board, Shackleton’s words about optimism felt particularly apt. Tonight, there’s a strong sense of anticipation as we continue our journey towards Ushuaia, grateful for calm seas — even if a few cameras went unused.  

A late wake-up call allowed us to rest well as we faced the final days of this unforgettable trip, which will end in just a few hours.

We needed extra energy today because the farewell was approaching, and with it, moments of sadness. Over the past days, we explored incredible and pristine places, discovering Antarctic flora and fauna never seen before. Even more importantly, we shared our time with amazing people from many different latitudes and countries, who shared their experiences, feelings, and expectations.

We attended the final lectures given by Luce, Rose, and Valeria on a variety of Antarctic topics, as well as a special talk on “The Mate.”

As we were almost arriving at the Beagle Channel, six southern right whale dolphins, dressed in striking black-and-white colors, approached Hondius as part of our farewell.

As Hondius sailed smoothly—almost like on a lake, and definitely not in the brave Drake 🙂—the expedition team held a refresher meeting under the guidance of Andam, Jonny, and Andy. They reviewed essential knowledge about knots, Zodiac driving, shelters, stretchers, and other important topics we must always keep in mind while operating in Antarctica.

At 18:00, it was time for the Captain’s farewell. We watched a video compiled by Gabi, summarizing the days we spent on this magical adventure and expedition.

Returning once more to the idea of farewell: are farewells truly sad moments? Mmmm… In Illusions, a book written by Richard Bach, it is noted that farewells are necessary so that we may meet again in the future. This means that farewells are not the end; they are the first step toward what lies ahead—a moment, or perhaps a day, that will come and find us together again, maybe forever.

Our final morning arrived quietly as the ship eased back into Ushuaia, the first light settling over the harbour. Before breakfast the corridors were already lined with luggage placed outside the cabins, a simple sign that the journey was drawing to its end. Breakfast itself felt warm and unhurried, filled with easy conversation and shared stories as everyone reflected on their favourite moments.

Soon after, we made our way ashore where our bags were arranged on the pier for collection. Farewells drifted across the group as fellow travellers exchanged hugs, handshakes and grateful thanks to the crew who had looked after us so well throughout the voyage.

With a final glance back at the ship that had carried us across the Drake Passage and through the unforgettable days in the ice, we stepped into the crisp Ushuaia morning carrying the memories of Antarctica with us.