HDS23-24, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp

Today was a day many of us been waiting so long for, the day we embark Hondius! It was a trip of a lifetime and we couldn’t wait to get started. The weather started off beautiful and sunny, we all felt in a good mood, ready for an adventure. At 1600, as we started to embark and the sun was out yet again shining upon us. We were shown to our cabins and shortly afterwards at 1700, we were called to the lounge for a safety drill. We were shown a safety video and had to don our bright orange lifejackets where we were then taken out to the lifeboats. After, it was time for the Captain’s cocktail, the Expedition Team handed us prosecco and delicious canapes while we were introduced to the trip by the Expedition Leader George. We met the rest of the team, all 24 of them! Wow, what an interesting bunch. We had a delicious buffet, and after, followed the IAATO briefing. We were all exhausted, but it was good to get the briefing finished before the notorious Drake Passage!

The first full day at sea on the Drake Passage had finally arrived, marking the true beginning of our Antarctic adventure. The night had been a bit rough, with waves rocking the ship, giving us all our first taste of the Drake Passage's reputation. While some passengers battled seasickness, most of us slowly adjusted to the ship’s rolling rhythm.

The day began with the cheerful wake-up call from George, our expedition leader, who greeted us over the intercom with his signature, “good morning, good morning, good morning!” It was a signal that the day’s adventures and preparations were about to unfold. At 9:15 AM, George and Gerry kicked things off with the Zodiac and IAATO briefings, laying the groundwork for safe and respectful exploration. By 11:00 AM, it was time for the mountaineering team’s mandatory briefing, further fueling our anticipation for the activities ahead.

Midday brought another important task: the distribution of the famous boots. As we laced them up, it felt like a tangible step closer to setting foot on the frozen continent. The excitement carried us into the dining room, where a delicious lunch was served - a welcome pause before the afternoon briefings. In the afternoon, we gathered for the kayaking briefing, imagining ourselves gliding through icy waters. Then, at 3:30 PM, we learned the details of the camping adventure, each slide and instruction painting vivid pictures of the experiences awaiting us. By the time the briefings concluded, we felt ready for the incredible activities ahead. In the late afternoon, Meike invited us out onto the decks to observe the magnificent seabirds soaring around the ship. It was a breathtaking moment, especially when we spotted a southern royal albatross, its wings stretching an astonishing 3.2 meters across. The sheer size and grace of the bird left everyone in awe.

Our second day crossing the Drake Passage was a turning point for most of us as we found our sea legs. A slight tailwind propelled Hondius gracefully over the rolling waves, inching us closer to Antarctica—our much-anticipated destination for the days ahead. The day began with a delicious breakfast prepared by Chef Ralf and his talented galley team, setting the perfect tone for what would be an exciting and informative day. After breakfast, we gathered in the lecture room, buzzing with energy and excitement. It was sign-up day for the basecamp activities! Mountaineering, camping, kayaking—each specialist was at the ready with signup sheets and eager to answer all our questions. The room hummed with the thrill of upcoming adventures.

Outside, the decks were closed due to icy conditions and large waves, but the spirit aboard remained high. As the ship pressed forward, we enjoyed a series of captivating lectures. Sasha kicked things off with an enlightening session on the unique geography of Antarctica, setting the stage for our journey. By the afternoon, Johnny and Lucia immersed us in the fascinating world of penguins, preparing us to better understand the lives of the waddling residents we’d soon meet on the Peninsula. In the afternoon, we turned our focus to biosecurity—a crucial step for any visitor to this pristine wilderness. To ensure we don’t inadvertently bring anything harmful ashore, we meticulously cleaned our clothing, bags, and equipment during what was playfully dubbed the “vacuum party.” Once everything was inspected and spotless, we signed self-declaration forms, ready to tread lightly in Antarctica.

Of course, it wasn’t all serious business! To our delight, Hotel Manager William and Assistant Victoria surprised us with ice cream in the lounge—a sweet treat that added to the excitement as we approached the icy splendor of the Peninsula. The day wrapped up with the daily recap hosted by EL George. We were thrilled to hear the next day’s plan: stepping foot on Antarctica and embarking on thrilling Zodiac cruises. Aitana shared fascinating insights about the Antarctic Convergence, a vital region for marine life. Meike added to the magic by showing photos of the different seabirds we’d spotted during our Drake Passage crossing, including the majestic southern royal albatross soaring near the stern of Hondius. As the day came to a close, we enjoyed a plated dinner while the waves outside began to calm. The sun broke through the clouds, painting the sky in breathtaking hues as we sailed into a stunning sunset. With only a few hours to go before waking up in Antarctica, the anticipation aboard was electric.

With the morning wake-up call from our Expedition Leader, everyone excitedly got out of bed. After a quick breakfast, we eagerly awaited the first day's activities of our Antarctic adventure.

Today’s activity location is Palaver Point. In the morning, we first allowed the mountaineering group passengers to disembark and head to the landing site. Then, the other two groups followed with their landing activities, followed by a Zodiac cruise, and finally the kayaking participants. The weather was perfect—bright sunshine, calm winds, and smooth seas. At the landing site, we encountered many chinstrap penguins, and the sight was incredible. From the highest point, we could see icebergs floating in the sea, and the beautiful mountain range was covered in snow and ice. After spending over an hour exploring the area, guests continued with the Zodiac cruise activity. During the cruise, everyone had the opportunity to enjoy massive icebergs and penguin colonies along the shore. The morning's activities ended in happy laughter, and all passengers returned to the ship by 11:45 AM.

For the kayakers, the first morning of our Antarctic adventure began under bright cloudless skies, with only a gentle breeze rippling the waters of the Palaver Point landing site. Our team of intrepid kayakers deployed from the Zodiacs to the kayaks and began an exploration of the headland. Heading south past a noisy colony of gentoo and chinstrap penguins, we rounded a pair of stranded icebergs to encounter the open waters of Palaver Point’s western shoreline. Our kayakers confidently navigated a cluster of small icebergs, past a resting crabeater seal, before arriving on the south side of the headland. Here we found a real sense of isolation, with only penguins and giant petrels for company. Our return journey followed a more offshore route in a 1-meter ocean swell, as the gentle breeze assisted our progress back to the landing site. We returned to Hondius, marveling at our exceptional Antarctic kayak adventure.

Day one of mountaineering was simply stunning! Blue skies and huge vistas as we ascended to the high point of Palaver Point on Two Hummock Island, located in the Palmer Archipelago to the west of the Antarctic Peninsula mainland. What a literal high to start on!

Lunch was a delicious buffet was served and afterward, guests could relax and rest as the ship sailed toward the next activity destination—Foyn Harbour. Foyn Harbour is a place rich in history with the wreck of the Whaling ship the ‘Governoren’ lying in the bay which has done so since 1915. in the afternoon, we conducted a two-and-a-half-hour Zodiac cruise. During this, visitors not only marvelled at the spectacular scenery, but also learned about the region’s exploration history. We saw abandoned whaling ships, dilapidated wooden water boats, icebergs, and seals.

Our mountaineers explored the flanks of the harbor itself, renowned for the wreck of the whaling ship Governoren. Avalanche prone slopes in the upper reaches of our ascent foiled our plan to access the higher plateau. We enjoyed a circular loop of the high ground around us and enjoyed the magnificence of our surroundings.

Once back on the ship, everyone had some time to rest. At 6:15 PM, we gathered in the observation lounge for a briefing on the day's activities and plans for the following day. Charlotte shared knowledge about the Weddell seals we saw during the cruise and George provided detailed instructions for the upcoming camping night activity.

Dinner was served shortly after, and as everyone enjoyed the meal, they exchanged stories and excitement about the day's adventures. After dinner, we landed on the first night of camping in Antarctica, with the camping site chosen at Punta Andrews. Tonight, one-third of the passengers would head to the campsite, and everyone was filled with anticipation and a bit of nervousness. For most, this would be a unique and unforgettable experience.

Our afternoon kayak adventure took place at the magnificent Foyn Harbour on Enterprise Island, in breezy cloudy weather that offered a taste of Antarctica’s challenging climate. Our capable group of sea kayakers launched in the shelter of the island’s east-facing coastline, close to the entrance to the Governoren inlet. We ventured into this narrow, protected cove, to view the remains of a shipwrecked whaling vessel, now a seasonal home to nesting Antarctic terns. A cluster of Weddell seals lay hauled out on the flat icy shoreline at the back of the bay. We continued north towards the tip of the island, weaving between grounded icebergs and occasionally battling stronger gusts of wind. Beyond the fine protecting headland, we felt a hint of the powerful waters of the Gerlache Strait, waves lifting our kayaks as we returned downwind around the outside of the island’s rocky outcrops. We finally returned to the ship, to celebrate a wonderful afternoon of coastal Antarctic explorations.

Camping: False Island / Fournier Bay / Anvers Island
64° 29 S 062° 50W
We arrived at our campsite. Our little, own private island surrounded by glaciers and overlooking vast Fournier Bay. We were so excited to be the first group to go camping in this serene environment. We found ourselves a spot to start digging our pits. Meanwhile, a few penguins decided to join us for a brief moment to rest on the edge of our island and looked at how some of us created true ‘villas’, whilst others seemed happy with a tiny ‘one-bedroom’ apartment. There we were, all alone, overwhelmed by the silence of this amazing continent. A frosty night which would forever be in our memories.

The day started pretty early for the campers, with a 4am pickup. Shuttled back to Hondius, they were welcomed by hot drinks, pastries and a well-deserved lie-in. We then transferred to Neko Harbour, Captain Ernesto guiding us carefully through waters strewn with icebergs. Landing at Neko, steps hacked out of the ice and a fixed rope meant that everyone got to go mountaineering at least for a few meters. Even on the snow above the beach, massive blocks of ice attested to the frequent tsunamis that sweep across from the huge glacier front to the left. On shore, we were greeted by innumerable gentoo penguins parading up and down the beach, as well as making their way up and down the highways to their nesting spots. Meanwhile Zodiac cruisers were treated to sightings of crabeater seals and a close encounter with that gentle giant of the Southern Ocean, a humpback whale.

Captain Ernesto navigated Hondius through dense brash ice to Neko Harbour, where we launched our kayaks beneath the towering ice cliffs of this steeply glaciated shoreline. We headed deeper into the ice along the coastline beyond the landing site, to a place of solitude surrounded by a crowded pack of frozen chunks of sea ice and glacial calving. The mountainous landscape combined with the silence of the bay, creating a powerful sensation of wild grandeur. We continued our journey, deeper into the inlet and around a substantial iceberg that briefly blocked our view of our now-distant ship. Towards the back of our group, a solitary humpback whale surfaced only a few meters from the kayaks, its plume of breath clearly audible in our peaceful icy surrounding. We headed back towards our launch point, the denser brash ice forcing course changes and a sustained effort to make progress towards the bay. We finally climbed back into the Zodiacs and returned to Hondius.

Luck was on our side for the mountaineers for this landing site, and our intrepid mountaineering teams enjoyed great underfoot snow conditions and good visibility.

All was complete by midday and while we feasted on fish and chips (some said it was the best lunch so far!). Hondius transited further south to Brown Station in the stunning Paradise Harbour. With wind gusting up to 30 knots, it didn’t feel especially like paradise at first. Luckily, a line of grounded icebergs formed a protective reef just in front of our proposed landing spot. We were able to explore around the unoccupied Argentinian base named after Almirante Brown, while Zodiac cruisers spotted a colony of blue-eyed shags on cliffs just south of the base, and Weddell seals basking on the fast ice to the north. Back aboard Hondius, Valeria’s recap talk was interrupted by a humpback whale just 20m off the ships starboard side. It was a special moment for us all, rounding off a wonderful day in the Peninsula.

Our afternoon arrival in Paradise Bay coincided with a fresh westerly wind that brought steeper wave crests to the waters of Brown Station. Beyond the Antarctic shag colony, Skontorp Bay offered calmer conditions and a possible destination for our adventurous team of sea kayakers. We travelled by Zodiac to a suitable launch point and climbed into our kayaks in the lee of a sheltering ice floe. We traveled deeper into the bay, slaloming through brash ice and bergy bits until we rounded a rocky headland into a sheltered inlet beneath steep snow slopes. Here, a resting Weddell seal lay sleepily on the shoreline - we quietly observed this beautiful animal, at home in its harsh surroundings. We continued across the bay, following a course only 200m from the terminal face of a small tidewater glacier. We arrived at a low rocky corner, where three Weddell seals rested ashore on a low icy plateau. Here, we enjoyed a magnificent view of the Skontorp glacier, a dramatic tumbling river ice falling into the ocean. We sat quietly, taking in our awesome surroundings, deep in the heart of the Antarctic Peninsula. Our Zodiacs drew close, ready for the return trip to Hondius and the end of a magnificent sea kayaking experience.

Our mountaineering team enjoyed a circular journey of the high ground known as Punta Proa behind the Argentine research station. Located in the large sea inlet of Paradise Harbour on the rocky Sanaviron Peninsula, Danco Coast, Graham Land. The plateau provides a truly captivating panorama and a haven of peace and tranquillity in a wild setting.

The day in Antarctica began with an enchanting scene of fresh snow blanketing the outer decks and dense fog shrouding the landscape - a mysterious and serene start to the morning. The first stop of the day was Petermann Island, where the group had the long-awaited opportunity to see Adélie penguins in their natural habitat. Their playful antics and stark black-and-white plumage stood out beautifully against the icy backdrop. A Zodiac cruise around the island followed, providing stunning close-up views of the surrounding rocky terrain, glacial formations, and abundant wildlife.

At our most southerly venue, we launched into the semi-protected waters of Peterman Island’s east coast with an enthusiastic team of kayakers. We explored the rocks and ice floes of the landing bay among surfacing gentoo penguins, as a light westerly wind created occasional challenges for our intrepid paddlers. Soon after launching, we were visited by an impressively large leopard seal, its nostrils flaring above the surface of the water and its eyes staring us down as we retreated into the shelter of the inner bay.

We organized ourselves for an onward journey, heading north towards the Porquoi Pas inlet as we weaved along the rocky shoreline between grounded icebergs. Blocked by dense early-season ice, we returned to the landing bay, pausing to raft for photographs amid dramatic scenery in this exposed corner of the Antarctic Peninsula. Delighted to experience this grand kayaking adventure, we returned thankfully to Hondius with our excellent Zodiac drivers.

After returning to the ship, we group enjoyed a delicious lunch, recharging for the next adventure. The afternoon was spent exploring the Hovgaard area, particularly the renowned iceberg graveyard. Boarding the Zodiacs once more, the group navigated through a maze of immense icebergs, some towering high above the water, while others displayed intricate shapes and dazzling shades of blue. Penguins could be seen perched on floating ice, and seals lounged lazily on bergs, occasionally slipping into the frigid waters.

In the late afternoon, the group embarked on a stunning passage through the magnificent Lemaire Channel, often referred to as the "Kodak Gap" for the most photographed channel in the world. Towering cliffs, glassy waters, and the occasional glacial backdrop created an awe-inspiring scene that captured the essence of Antarctica's dramatic landscape. As the journey through the channel concluded, the experience was elevated to a thrilling climax when the group found themselves surrounded by humpback whales. These majestic creatures were feeding actively in the area, surfacing close to the Zodiacs and the ship. The sound of their exhalations echoed across the calm waters, and their graceful movements created an unforgettable spectacle. It was a profound and intimate encounter with Antarctica's rich marine life, providing a perfect ending to an already remarkable day.

In damp snowy weather, we launched into a grey Antarctic world of still water, ice cliffs and grounded icebergs. We were close to a shoreline of glacially smoothed rocks, beneath Pleneau Island’s steep snowy landscape. Heading south, we followed the steepening coastline to a bay fringed with vertical ice cliffs and balanced seracs. Keeping a safe distance, we paused to admire this powerful and wild scene. Deteriorating weather brought the trip to an end; after a damp and chilly Zodiac ride, all the team were relieved to return to the welcoming warmth of Hondius.

The mountaineering team had a great journey up the long spine of this narrow 3.5-mile-long Island. On this day we experienced very poor visibility known as ‘whiteout’ conditions. Progress in the enveloping mist was only possible with great caution! Our Mountain Guides stayed close whilst maintaining safe roped up distances within each team in case of hidden crevasses! Full use of GPS devices and prerecorded location data from the guides previous visits was essential in such testing conditions. But the day is not over yet we were greeted by a delicious Thanksgiving dinner and a hope to go camping tonight.

Today was an unforgettable day in Antarctica, full of adventure, wildlife, and rich history. The morning began with our arrival at Port Lockroy, a small harbor on Goudier Island, located in the Antarctic Peninsula. As we disembarked from Hondius, the cold air was brisk, and the atmosphere was electric with the excitement of exploring this historic site. Port Lockroy, once a British research station, has been transformed into a living museum, offering a glimpse into the life of early Antarctic explorers. We toured the old station, which dates back to the 1940s, learning about the challenges and sacrifices made by those who lived here. The station also houses a museum and a small gift shop, where proceeds go to maintaining the buildings.

The mountaineering team climbed to a fantastic col high on Jabet Peak in the Comer Range, Wiencke Island, in the Palmer Archipelago. The col stands proud and clearly visible overlooking Port Lockroy, Damoy Point and Dorian Bay. The view from up high is magnificent.

Camping night at Kerr Point / Ronge Island
64° 42 S 062° 37 4 W
We had to be a little patient before we could ‘dig’ into our camping adventure. The weather hadn’t been in our favor, but the camping team and the bridge managed to finally get us to the beautiful spot; Kerr Point on Ronge Island. We were greeted by a Weddell seal and a single penguin, who kept an eye on us from a distance. Not bothered by us at all, whilst we were preparing our ‘bedrooms’. Before we turned in, we enjoyed the reflections of the mountains and islands surrounding us. When were all lying in our pit, the perfect silence was broken a few times by the thundering sound of breaking ice in the glacier beside us. We woke up and found our bivvy bags covered in a little layer of snow. This was pure Antarctica!

For the kayakers we spent a happy morning in Port Lockroy’s protected waters, admiring magnificent mountain scenery as the Antarctic Peninsula’s ‘Seven Sisters’ formed an impressive, jagged backdrop to our kayaking explorations. Winds remained light, with ideal conditions for our new team of adventurous paddlers. On the north side of the former British Base buildings, an enclosed inlet offered a fine encounter with a resting Weddell seal that lay dozing on a flat sheet of fast ice. Our team quietly observed this magnificent animal, perfectly adapted and comfortably at home in its frozen habitat. The far side of the bay provided a grand view of Port Lockroy’s sheltering ice cliffs; an entertaining paddle through a field of brash ice brought us back to Hondius and the end of our kayaking adventures.

One of the highlights of our visit was the abundance of penguins. Gentoo penguins were scattered across the rocky shore, some waddling clumsily while others playfully interacted with each other. It was a magical sight, as these curious creatures didn't seem fazed by our presence, allowing us to observe them up close. After a morning full of history and wildlife, we set sail toward Damoy Point for the afternoon. This is another iconic location, nestled near the Antarctic Peninsula, known for its dramatic landscapes and vibrant penguin colonies. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a stunning view of penguin colonies and glaciers in the back.

At Damoy Point, we had the privilege of exploring another active penguin colony, home to both gentoo penguins. The colony was teeming with life, as penguin pairs stood guard over their nests, while others ventured out into the sea for food. We also visited the small building that served as a historic staging post for early expeditions, adding another layer of intrigue to our exploration.

Damoy Point was in benign mood this day, offering an afternoon of windless exploration along the coastline past Casablanca Island and as far as the entrance to Dorian Bay. Our team of delighted paddlers enjoyed encounters with gentoo penguins swimming and were able to closely observe their rookeries along the low shoreline. We followed a natural slalom course between the ground icebergs in the shallow waters around Casablanca Island, beyond which the coastline to the north rose up impressively as an unbroken line of sea cliffs. We paused a while to take in the magnificent scenery, and to gaze in awe at the grand mountain vista of nearby Anvers Island. We retraced our route towards Hondius, finally transferring to the Zodiacs a short distance from the security of our floating Antarctic home.

The mountaineering team enjoyed a sublime glacial trek on this expansive plateau of land close to Port Lockroy. Accessing our trek from Damoy Point we took a counterclockwise tour passing beneath the towering Jabet Peak. Amazing to note that this site was historically used as a makeshift runway for flights transporting personnel and equipment to nearby research stations!

Waking up in Errera Channel with snowflakes we approached our destination for the morning: Danco Island. The expedition team went ashore to scout the landing and before long we were boarding Zodiacs bound for the beach. Danco is a small rounded island home to thousands of gentoo penguins, skuas, and is a resting spot for seals. Once ashore we picked our way carefully up the slope, taking care to avoid the network of penguin highways, and stopping frequently to let the inquisitive birds waddle past us on their way to feed their young.

The vantage point above the landing spot was the perfect place to take in our spectacular surroundings. Mountains more than 1000 m high form the flanks of the Errera Channel and large cirque glaciers, and huge snow cornices adorn the jagged peaks.

A cool grey morning - thankfully without wind - brought the opportunity to explore the west side of Danco Island, where the inner Errera Channel offered a fantastic kayaking playground past steep ice cliffs and among floating icebergs in the waters towards Ronge Island. We launched close to Danco’s landing site before heading north for a short distance to discover silence and solitude in a huge aquatic amphitheater fringed with tumbling tidewater glaciers.

A delightfully eroded iceberg drew our attention, which led to an impromptu photo session in the middle of the Errera Channel. We finally drifted back towards Hondius, to happily reflect on our memorable Antarctic kayaking experiences.

After a glorious few hours ashore it was time to head back to the ship and we arrived just in time to take in a sumptuous buffet lunch. With full stomachs and a cup of coffee we were soon recharged and ready for an afternoon of activities. The afternoon landing was on the continent of Antarctica at the spectacular setting of the mountains and glaciers of Orne Harbour. We all climbed the saddle of the at the top of the hill to see the beautiful chinstrap colony. That made two penguin species in the same day! We had a bonus of big snowflakes coming down which made our snowshoes come in extra handy on this steep slope.

True Antarctic weather greeted our arrival at Orne Harbour, where a patter of damp snowfall fell from the sky and low misty clouds obscured the summit of Spigot Peak. Our small team of hardy adventurers launched their kayaks at the south side of Orne Harbour, following a close inshore route past a cluster of chinstrap penguin colonies as the shoreline steeply in a stepped series of rocky ledges.

Beyond the landing site, we ventured into a more isolated world of brash ice and growlers, threading a route through these icy obstructions into the heart of the bay. Alone and surrounded by steep glacial landforms, we drifted in this powerful and austere world of ice, rock and water. A weaving route between larger icebergs finally led us to the mouth of the bay and a final short transfer to Hondius.

The big question was if the campers were able to go out due to the snowfall, the bridge team and George put all the effort to find the best possible place. The weather was with us as suddenly the sun came out, the wind dropped and Kerr point was the ideal place for a night camping in the wilderness. But first things first, celebrating a good exploring with an outdoor BBQ in a breathtaking setting on deck 5 aft. With good vibes and even better food. All made possible by the galley team and hotel department, with complementary drinks on the house. Wrapped up this day with a good party on the dancefloor and waving to the campers who were driven off with the Zodiacs.

Camping: Kerr Point / Ronge Island
64° 42 S 062° 37 4W
After an exciting barbecue evening we found out that camping was happening! We got ourselves ready to go camping at Kerr Point. What a night! Hardly any wind, temperature just -1°C and a beautiful soft light of blue, pink and different kinds of white. Within the perimeter that was set by the camping team we dug our pits in the snow. We stayed up late to enjoy the breathtaking view over the Errera Channel and Cuverville Island. In the morning, we all were eager to return to the ship. Although we enjoyed being out for the night. For some of us an experience we never thought we would have.

The twilight of the night quickly dissipated. Hondius was slowly manoeuvring among the icebergs, yet it remained almost stationary. The Errera Channel is known for its strong currents, so to stay in one spot, the ship had to maintain a low speed. A light frost had turned droplets on the railings into ice. They occasionally sparkled like crystals. A profound silence was looming over Antarctica, and we were part of it. The winch began to hum softly, and a Zodiac was lowered into the water. Two more followed. Three sleepy guides set off to pick up campers who had been awake and waiting for them onshore. Once the campers returned onboard and retreated to their cabins for a couple more hours of sleep, Hondius quietly began to move towards the Gerlache Strait. Her next stop was off the coast of Cuverville Island, the site of the morning's activities.

After breakfast, we scattered to different pursuits: the kayakers set out to measure distances with the strokes of their paddles, and the mountaineers, being the first to disembark, started climbing to the highest point of Cuverville Island. The rest of the group split into two equal halves. One half landed onshore to observe the largest gentoo penguin colony in Antarctica, while the other half embarked on a short Zodiac cruise around the icebergs. Midway through, we swapped activities. Lunchtime came unnoticed. We returned aboard Hondius and headed straight to the restaurant. Meanwhile, the ship weighed anchor and sailed toward the Orne Islands, where a landing was planned for the afternoon.

The weather deteriorated slightly — a strong wind began to blow — but it didn’t deter us. We landed on one of the Orne Islands, home to both gentoo and chinstrap penguins. The island was covered in snow, and some of us needed snowshoes to navigate. In the evening, as usual, we attended the recap in the observation lounge and had dinner in the restaurant. After dinner, as we sailed northward, we gazed one last time at the sharp mountain peaks of the Antarctic Peninsula. Tomorrow, the South Shetland Islands await!

An excited team of ship’s crew joined us for a final kayak session at Cuverville Island. The weather again delivered light winds and grey skies, the perfect opportunity to attempt a circuit of the entire island. We paddled from the landing site through shallow water in the channel between the island’s west shore and Ronge Island, then headed south towards distant Danco Island. Rounding Cuverville’s southern point, we headed into the ice-choked waters of the Errera Channel’s north entrance. Here we navigated a complex route through extensive brash ice and occasionally larger growlers. Finally returning Cuverville’s north shore, we admired the noisy Gentoo Penguin colonies as they crowded their rocky promontories.

Our final mountaineering teams headed out to Georges Point on the Northern tip of Ronge Island. Exposed to the Gerlache Strait and marking the top of the Errera Channel it can be a bit wild and windy! Luckily our teams enjoyed great conditions with cold clear weather and excellent snow conditions as they ascended to an exposed high col.

Hondius cut smoothly through the icy waters as it approached the narrow mouth of Neptune Bellows, flanked by towering cliffs. The entrance, only 230 meters wide, posed a challenge even for seasoned sailors, especially with Ravn Rock lurking just beneath the surface. Yet, the experienced Captain navigated with ease, bringing the ship safely into Whaler’s Bay. This remote location held a haunting history, once serving as a Norwegian whaling station in the early 20th century, before being transformed into a British research base after World War II. The base, which operated until volcanic eruptions in the late 1960s destroyed much of it, now lay abandoned. Despite its eerie atmosphere, life thrived here—gentoo penguins waddled across the shore, while cape petrels, kelp gulls, and skuas soared overhead.

Seals hauled out on the ice, and the landscape, still marked by the ruins of human activity, offered a striking contrast to the vibrant wildlife.

A short walk from the Zodiac landing brought passengers to Neptune’s Window, a breathtaking viewpoint that overlooked both the caldera and the open ocean. The clear, windless day enhanced the serene beauty of the landscape, with the calm waters of the bay reflecting the towering cliffs and remnants of the old whaling station. During a Zodiac tour, a solitary leopard seal called ‘Chunk’ (according to Happywhale), missing a flipper from a likely encounter with an orca, added a touch of raw reality to the peaceful surroundings. The animal’s presence reminded the adventurers of the untamed wildness of the Antarctic waters. Later, in an iconic moment, several intrepid passengers took the plunge into the icy seas, a rite of passage for many who venture to this remote corner of the world. Amid the laughter and cold splashes, gentoo Penguins observed curiously, their unbothered nature adding to the sense of surreal calm in the face of such extreme conditions.

The journey continued with a visit to Half Moon Bay, where chinstrap penguins filled the shores and the air was alive with seabirds. The island’s rugged beauty and the energetic movements of the penguins made for a perfect end to the Antarctic Peninsula exploration. The Argentine Camara Station, partially snowed in for the winter, provided a stark backdrop to the bustling wildlife. After a successful Zodiac cruise with a humpback whale and a minke whale and a final walk through the cove, the group returned to Hondius for the journey back across the Drake Passage.

Day eleven of our Expedition finds Hondius plying the vast Drake Passage back to our point of embarkation, Ushuaia. As the day progressed, AEL Chris presented a fascinating lecture on sea and glacier ice to our English speaking audience while AEL Jerry did the same in Mandarin for our Chinese guests. Expedition Guide Johnny also made a presentation for the Mandarin speaking guests on the apex predator of the Southern Ocean.

In the afternoon Charlotte, one of our intrepid guides and marine mammal expert, presented a lecture on whales of the Southern Ocean and in particular focused on feeding, reproduction and diving adaptations. Later in the afternoon our resident bird expert and polar guide Mieke made a presentation on Fulmars of the Southern Ocean, and the impacts of plastic pollution. Finally, one of the outstanding polar guides and historian, Rose, made a presentation on Antarctic geology. Meanwhile, outside there was a beautiful spectacle going on; nine light mantled sooty albatross and a Tristan albatross, a rare and incredible sight!

After dinner, ‘the Juan and only’ orchestrated a photography competition amongst the guests. The imagery was exceptional and enjoyed by all.

Today was our last day at sea, it was the perfect opportunity to catch up on some rest, and listen to the last lectures of the trip. George gave us a passionate talk on geopolitics with Rose at the same time on Charcot, the famous French explorer. After a fantastic lunch, Aitana spoke to us about oceanography with Jerry giving us the story of the ‘Race to the South Pole’. Mid morning we past ‘Cape Horn’ the Southern most tip of South America, a place where so many sailors lost their lives trying to round the horn. The last lecture of the day was followed by Lucia and Valeria on a ‘mate’ workshop.

Mate is an infusion made from yerba mate leaves which a plant native to Paraguay and Parana river basins in South America. It has been consumed since the pre-Hispanic era. At 18:15, we all met for the Captains farewell, the staff offered us a glass of bubbly and showed us the slideshow of the trip which Aitana has been working so meticulously on. It brought a tear to our eyes, what a trip, we could never have dreamt it would have been so incredible.

Today was the day we had to leave our floating palace we called home for 13 days to be set free into the big wide world. We said our goodbyes to the staff, picked up our bags and left. We all hope to return one day, thank you so much everyone!! 😊