HDS23-25, trip log, Antarctica - Basecamp

Our first day of the expedition began with that excited buzz that comes when everyone realises they are finally on their way to Antarctica. After settling into our cabins and confirming that our luggage had arrived safely, most of us drifted into the lounge where tea and coffee were waiting. The mood was bright and chatty as people compared cabins and swapped stories about how long they had dreamed of making this journey.

The safety briefing and lifeboat drill came quickly enough and brought a sense of purpose to the day. There was something oddly reassuring about standing together in our bright life jackets listening to the crew explain what to do in an emergency. With that done, we gathered along the railings to watch Ushuaia slip behind us as the ship eased away from the dock. The mountains glowed in the late light and for a moment it was quiet in that way that makes you feel a new chapter has begun.

Back in the lounge the expedition introduction and captain’s welcome brought the energy right up again. The team made their entrance with good humour and the staff introductions were filled with a lot of laughs, which helped melt away any remaining nerves. By dinner time people were moving easily between tables and the dining room felt like the beginning of a floating community.

As evening settled in we met again for the zodiac and IAATO briefing. The reality of what lay ahead began to land as we learned how we would move around in the days to come. By then we could already feel a gentle roll underfoot and word spread quickly that the swell out on the Drake Passage was expected to be lively. Many of us wandered back to the lounge to visit the doctor for our Drake Shake medication, just in case. There was a steady flow of passengers exchanging wry smiles as they collected tablets and advice.

Before turning in for the night we secured our belongings as instructed, aware that we would be sailing into open sea within hours. The ship creaked softly and a few mugs rattled on their saucers as we made our way back to our cabins. It felt like the true beginning of the adventure a mix of anticipation, sea breeze and the pleasant uncertainty of what the next days would bring.

Today's programme was filled with preparations for our visit to Antarctica. As our second day at sea began with our expedition leader, Chloe, calling out her first “Good morning!” wake-up call, we started our crossing through the Drake Passage. The waves, at around 3 to 4 metres high, were giving us an idea of the famous 'Drake Shake'.

After breakfast, we attended two of the three mandatory briefings we had to attend in order to be ready for kayaking, mountaineering and camping. Nick and Alexis explained everything about kayaking, while Johnny, Ed, Andy and Paul covered mountaineering.

Basecamp trips have lots of extra activities, and the last mandatory briefing about camping with Valeria, Brian and Sasha made us want to sleep outside as soon as possible! While spending time on the decks and in the bridge, we had the opportunity to see some sea birds of the South Atlantic and take amazing videos of the waves crashing over the bow.

In the afternoon, Martin invited us to a photography lecture, where he shared all his tips and tricks for getting the best shots of our incredible trip. Later on, we all gathered in the lounge again for a daily recap. Chloe presented the plans for the following day. Mark talked about the birds we could find in these latitudes and Koen taught us about the Antarctic Convergence. Finally, Andy gave us a crash course on 'How to Talk Like a Sailor!'. After another delicious dinner, everyone was excited about crossing the Drake Passage again the following day and getting closer to our destination: Antarctica!

Our last day on the Drake Passage passed much more gently than the day before. The Drake was kinder to us, and many of those who had battled seasickness yesterday were finally able to join meals in the restaurant.

In the morning, we gathered to sign up for activities and select our preferred dates. The line stretched across the lounge, and everyone seemed equally eager, not just for the sign-up itself but for the adventures ahead. Mountaineering, kayaking, camping, zodiac cruising … every possible way to roam, paddle, or stumble across Antarctica. After submitting our choices, we picked up our muck boots for the landings to come. Carrying them felt like receiving a formal invitation from the White Continent itself.

It would be our first chance to explore Antarctica. Would a whale glide beneath our kayaks? Would the sky shine clear and the night fall silent and peaceful? Would penguins or snowy petrels wander over to visit us? Or, would any of us stumble into a crevasse and discover some ancient creature living beneath the snow secretly?

In the meantime, Marcelo held a mini-exhibition in the library showcasing his collection of items from Antarctica's exploration history. It was mind-blowing to see the photographs, medals, letters, and so on. Each piece whispered tales of adventure and courage. As we touched these items, we could feel the history, the rugged waves, the biting cold, and the crisp air that had brushed past intrepid explorers decades ago. It was their unwavering dedication that paved the way for us to embrace the wonders of this extraordinary continent.

In the afternoon we went through our biosecurity checks, bringing every piece of outer gear we planned to wear ashore. We needed to make sure there were no seeds, soil, or forgotten snacks. Antarctica is a fragile environment and keeping it free from invasive species is one small but essential way we could help protect it.

Afterwards, Lucía introduced us to the penguin species we might encounter over the coming days. Her enthusiasm was contagious. Wearing her adorable penguin-printed jacket, she looked like their ambassador. We learned about their behaviours, courtship rituals, and quirky personalities. A video of a particularly mischievous penguin sneaking pebbles from a neighbour’s nest had all of us laughing. By the end, we realized penguins might have just become our new favorite animals!

At the evening recap, the team revealed the detailed plan for our first activity day. We were scheduled for a 6:15am wake-up call, yet we couldn’t wait for the morning to arrive. We felt like a kid on the night before a school field trip, except colder, and with a much higher chance of meeting a penguin.

The first day on the Antarctic Peninsula began with an unmistakably Antarctic mood as the ship approached Portal Point. Snowshoes swept across the landscape, and low, overcast skies cast a muted glow over the coastline, giving the entire scene an ethereal, almost otherworldly quality. Despite the wintry atmosphere, the seas remained calm, allowing for a smooth continental landing. On the approach, all three penguin species — Adélie, gentoo, and chinstrap were spotted perched on scattered icebergs, as if welcoming the visitors to the frozen continent.

Once ashore, guests had their first close-up views of true Antarctic icebergs, their towering blue walls grounded, motionless and silently in the bay. A pair of Humpback Whales surfaced nearby. Many guests took the opportunity to pose for photos with the Antarctic flag, capturing the moment they set foot on their Seventh Continent. Kayaking and mountaineering groups set out from the landing site, weaving between ice formations or ascending and disappearing behind snowy ridgelines under the soft grey light.

By the afternoon, the scene transformed dramatically. As the ship arrived in Foyn Harbour, the weather shifted to brilliant sunshine and clear, blue skies - a striking contrast to the morning’s snowfall. The sheltered bay sparkled under the bright light, providing ideal conditions for another round of Zodiac cruising, kayaking and mountaineering excursions.

Wildlife stole the show here as well. Zodiac cruisers were treated to the sight of Adélie penguins balanced on a small bergy bit, while nearby an Imperial shag colony busied itself along the rocky shoreline. Above the water, Antarctic terns hovered and dived, successfully fishing in the glistening shallows in front of the zodiacs.

Foyn Harbour’s history was on full display with the wreck of the Guvernøren, its rusted remains rising sharply from the sea — a haunting reminder of Antarctica’s whaling past. The afternoon concluded with unforgettable encounters as feeding humpback whales moved close to the zodiacs, fluking as they fed, their immense forms gliding just beneath the surface.

From swirling snow to sunlit seas, and from penguins on icebergs to whales at close quarters, it was a day that captured the full drama and beauty of Antarctica — an experience impossible to forget.

The afternoon concluded with plans for tomorrow and recaps on Humpback Whales by Chloe, the history of the Guvernøren by Marcelo and Sasha introduced the infamous Question Box.

The evening had one last surprise, in the form of a pod of Orca during dinner, viewable from the dinning room!

For some of us — those who bravely challenged the forces of nature by spending the night on shore in sleeping bags — the day began very early. For everyone else, it began, as usual, at 6:45 a.m. Chloe, our expedition leader, woke us all with her wake up call, after which we, waking up as we walked, headed toward the restaurant for breakfast.

The weather was wonderful — sunshine, a light breeze, and a temperature around zero degrees. While having breakfast and drinking our morning coffee, we kept glancing out the windows, curiously examining the stretch of land where our morning landing was planned. The name of the place — Damoy Point — sounds somewhat unusual to a Russian ear. At the very least, the day promised to be interesting.

After breakfast, dressed as usual according to the established rotation, we began gathering near the Zodiac Boarding Area. The kayakers were picked up by a special Zodiac, which had the kayaks secured behind it, and sped off somewhere around the corner toward Port Lockroy. The mountaineers, being the first to land, set off to conquer a nearby mountain peak. Half of those not engaged in any special activities headed out to walk through the snowdrifts and look at penguins, while the other half explored the area from the water, sitting in the Zodiacs.

In addition to penguins and snow, Damoy Point had a historic hut where, if necessary, one could even spend the night. Inside the hut were artifacts related to the everyday life of mid 20th century polar researchers. Our guide Marcelo, on duty there, gladly explained everything to us. Partway through the morning program, we swapped places with those doing the Zodiac cruise.

One way or another, lunchtime soon approached, and once back on board Hondius, we hurried to the restaurant. In the meantime, the captain gave the order to relocate the ship to another spot, literally a kilometre away from the current one — which was promptly carried out. The second half of the day promised to be unforgettable! After all, we were going to visit Port Lockroy — the southernmost post office on the planet!

Before heading ashore, we gathered in the main lounge. The fact was that two staff members from Port Lockroy had come aboard to give us a short lecture about the history of this British base and how it had been transformed into a museum, a shop, and a post office. We were also curious to learn what life is like for the people who come here each season to work. Naturally, the friendly ladies gladly and thoroughly told us all about it.

From a logistical standpoint, the event was far from simple. Excluding the mountaineers and kayakers, all of us had to be divided into three groups and take turns visiting Port Lockroy itself, the small Jugla Point, and a short Zodiac cruise. One way or another, everything was organized flawlessly, and everyone who wanted to was able to do all three. It is worth noting that near Jugla Point we saw something rather rare for these places — an elephant seal. It was still a juvenile, but even so already impressive in size. We examined it with great curiosity and took photographs. In the shop at the former British base, we bought souvenirs and sent postcards. Now we can only wait to see when they reach their recipients.

Toward the end of the outing, the weather began to worsen — the wind strengthened. Nevertheless, we all successfully returned to the ship and attended the daily recap, followed by dinner.

Today we arrived at Melchior Island. The sky was cloudy, and the water was a bit choppy, but everyone on the expedition boat was excited to start the day. We got ready to board the zodiacs for our first cruise. The plan was to look for wildlife and enjoy the amazing Antarctic landscape. As we moved away from the ship, we could feel the cold, fresh air on our faces. Even with the grey sky, the place looked calm and beautiful.

While we passed by the small station on the island, we started to see more and more wildlife. A group of penguins stood on the rocks, calling to each other and looking curious as we went by. Not far away, a few seals were resting on the shore. Some of them lifted their heads, almost as if they were greeting us. All around us were icebergs of many shapes and sizes. Some were tall and sharp, while others were round and smooth. Their bright blue and white colours made the whole scene look stunning.

As the cruise continued, the wind became a little stronger, and it started to feel quite cold. Our hands and faces felt the chill, and many of us pulled our hoods tighter. After some time, we turned back toward the ship. It felt good to climb back onboard, step into the warm dining room, and enjoy a hot lunch. The warmth and food brought back our energy.

In the afternoon, we had another small expedition. We went out once again in the zodiacs, even though the water was still a bit choppy. But only a short distance from the ship, we had an amazing surprise. We saw some of the best humpback whales of the trip. They were feeding close to the surface, lifting their tails high and blowing mist into the air. It was a wonderful sight.

Some of us stayed with the whales to watch them for a while, while others continued on to circumnavigate Gand Island. Both groups had their own special experience. Halfway through the cruise, the team surprised us with hot chocolate mixed with a little rum. The warm drink tasted wonderful in the cold air, and everybody enjoyed it.

When we finally returned to the ship, we had our daily recap in the lounge and then dinner. After such a full and exciting day, we went to bed tired, warm, and very happy. Antarctica had already given us so much to remember.

Antarctica welcomed us back with the return of the sun. A soft, fleeting sea breeze went virtually unnoticed, overpowered by the warmth of the rays that bathed us.

We woke up in Andvord Bay, anchored before immense walls of ice, and prepared for a landing at one of the journey's highlights: Neko Harbour. This is a place were standing on the "beach" can feel dangerous due to the unpredictable waves caused by the sheer collapse of ice from the immense glacier directly ahead. Indeed, many of us were fortunate enough to witness the spine-tingling rumble as a monumental piece of ice thundered into the water. Neko is home to a vast Gentoo penguin colony, and in this season, we could observe the dedicated parents incubating the eggs of their future chicks.

From the shores of Neko, the visual and auditory spectacle continued out in the bay. We spotted numerous Humpback whales and the occasional Minke whale, an authentic feast for the senses. You only needed to lift your head to spot a whale or two performing their magnificent routines. And, for the luckiest among us, a sighting of the penguin's most feared predator: the Leopard Seal. She, a female barely two years old, was sprawled out on a small, secluded iceberg, oblivious to the drama unfolding nearby.

Neko, an authentic luxury for the eyes and ears — if not so much for the nose — allowed us to conclude the morning energized for our next destination: Stony Point.

After an excellent lunch, we arrived at Paradise Bay for a visit to Stony Point. This spot isn't famous for its land-based fauna, but rather because it was the location where many would fulfill the dream of taking a dip in the Antarctic waters. Following a good walk around the site, an impromptu snowball fight or two, and some energetic races in the snow, the moment arrived. It was a complete success: over 60 people bravely bared their skin to the 2-degree Celsius air to plunge into the near-zero-degree water. The mixture of screams and triumphant smiles concluded the afternoon's activities, leaving everyone yearning for a very, very hot shower. \

But the day was not yet over. The Hondius smelled different tonight — it smelled of smoke, it smelled of food, it smelled like a barbecue! Yes, tonight was the barbecue night, a night of celebration and dancing right in front of Paradise Bay. We think it’s safe to say the bay’s name perfectly defines our day: we enjoyed ourselves as if we were truly in paradise.

After last night’s unforgettable barbecue and party, the slightly later wake-up call and breakfast were very much appreciated. A gentle start was exactly what we needed. Outside, the day began windy around Cuverville Island, but we managed to find shelter and went ashore for a landing at the largest Gentoo penguin colony in the Antarctic Peninsula. The penguins were as lively as ever, and the dramatic weather only added to the atmosphere.

We also had the opportunity to cruise part of the Errera Channel, weaving between icebergs carved into extraordinary shapes. Their deep blues and towering forms made for an unforgettable morning before we returned to the ship for lunch.

The plan for the afternoon was Wilhelmina Bay, but as we approached the area, visibility deteriorated quickly. Heavy snow and fog settled in, and Chloe explained that these were not safe conditions for Zodiac cruising. With a camping group scheduled for tonight, the decision was made to leave the bad weather behind and search for a more suitable and safer location.

Instead, we spent the afternoon on a ship cruise past massive, beautiful icebergs, sculptural giants floating. Chloe gave a passionate lecture on plankton, sharing just how vital and fascinating these tiny organisms are. Out on the bow, the team prepared warm mulled wine (Glühwein) for us to enjoy while taking in the proper Antarctic weather, with whales surfacing around us. A relaxed, restorative afternoon, perfect for recharging before the adventures ahead.

Afterward, we gathered for the daily recap with the Expedition Team and shared plenty of laughs thanks to Sasha and his legendary “questions from the box.” Then came dinner and finally, the moment many of us had been waiting for: camping night!

Back at Stony Point, the weather had turned perfect for camping. Excitement buzzed through the group as we prepared to spend the night out on the Antarctic ice: an experience none of us will forget.

This morning Hondius entered the narrow, glacier-lined corridors of Graham Passage, the ship gliding between sculpted ice walls under a curtain of shifting cloud. The weather was already showing its Antarctic temperament — grey skies with gusty winds sweeping spindrift across the water — but conditions remained suitable for a Zodiac cruise, and we eagerly suited up.

Out on the water, the scenery was nothing short of breathtaking. Icebergs in every shade of blue drifted silently past, some smooth like marble, others jagged and fresh from the glacier’s grip. We shared the channel with a lively assembly of Antarctic wildlife: penguins porpoising through the water, and on floating ice floes, Weddell and Crabeater seals resting lazily, occasionally lifting their heads to inspect us. The wind funneled through the passage, sometimes testing our balance in the Zodiacs, but the experience remained magical— classic Antarctica in all its raw, dramatic beauty.

After returning to the ship and thawing out, we enjoyed a welcome lunch before embarking on our split afternoon program in Palaver point. Half of the guests went ashore for a landing among a spirited colony of Chinstrap penguins, whose braying calls and endless rock-collecting antics provided plenty of entertainment. The wind had strengthened, making the landing a bit more challenging, but the reward was well worth it: close wildlife encounters and sweeping views of the rugged coastline.

Meanwhile, those staying onboard were treated to a fascinating lecture by Marcelo about Adrien de Gerlache’s Belgica expedition — a story of endurance, scientific discovery, and the trials of overwintering in the Antarctic darkness. Marcelo’s storytelling, paired with the dramatic history, made it a highlight of the afternoon.

As evening approached, we gathered in the lounge for our Daily Recap, reviewing our wildlife sightings and hearing about the plans for tomorrow. The wind still howled outside, but inside Hondius spirits were high, warmed by the day’s adventures and a hearty dinner to close out another memorable Antarctic day.

We began the day at 7:45am with a cheerful wake-up call, greeting another stunning morning in Antarctica. Guests enjoyed a hearty breakfast in the Dining Room while the Expedition Team prepared for operations at Deception Island, part of the South Shetland Islands. With weather conditions changing quickly, flexibility remained essential as we planned both morning and afternoon excursions.

Our morning operations focused on Whalers Bay, one of the most historically significant locations on Deception Island. As guests came ashore in their respective groups, they explored the remains of the early 20th-century Norwegian whaling station, once one of the busiest hubs of Antarctic whaling. The rusted boilers, water tanks, and weathered buildings stand today as a stark reminder of the industry that operated here between 1912 and 1931.

Whalers Bay also played a role in later decades: British forces used it during WWII, and repeated volcanic eruptions — especially in 1967 and 1969 — forced the final abandonment of the site. Walking among the scattered relics, guests gained a powerful sense of the human history layered into this dramatic volcanic landscape.

Rotations continued smoothly between the Gentoo Penguins & Antarctic Krill group and the Humpback Whales & Weddell Seals group, allowing everyone time to explore the beach, station ruins, and steaming coastal waters.

A buffet lunch at 12:30 offered a warm break between outings.

In the afternoon, improving conditions opened the door to our planned operation at Telefon Bay, one of Deception Island’s most striking volcanic features. The area is named after the ship Telefon, which sought refuge in the island’s natural harbor in the early 1900s.

We enjoyed a wonderful hike across the black volcanic ash plain and up onto the crater ridges formed during eruptions in the late 1960s. The trail provided sweeping views across the flooded caldera, making it a unique chance to walk inside an active volcanic system—an experience possible in very few places on Earth. The stark contrast of dark ash slopes, snow patches, and the brilliant caldera waters made the afternoon a highlight of the day.

Both guest groups rotated through zodiac operations to ensure everyone had time to explore this spectacular landscape. At 18:15, guests gathered in the Observation Lounge for our daily recap, where the Expedition Team shared insights into Deception Island’s geology and human history.

We closed the day at 20:45 with Sasha’s engaging presentation, “How to Get to Antarctica?”, in the lounge — a fitting end to a full day exploring one of the most dramatic and historic sites in the South.

A late wake-up call let us rest well as we faced the last days of this unforgettable trip, waking to Sasha’s voice. We needed the extra energy because the farewell was coming, and sad moments can easily find us. We spent days discovering incredible, pristine places and encountering Antarctic flora and fauna we had never seen before, and we also shared our time with amazing people from many different latitudes — 36 countries — who told us their experiences, feelings and expectations. We attended the final lectures from Martin, Carina, Koen and Chloe, covering a range of Antarctic topics. Just as we were crossing 60 degrees south, a whale appeared beside the ship as if taking part in our farewell.

We met some passengers who were very proud to receive their Antarctic Certificates — proof of their adventure on the White Continent. As Hondius sailed smoothly, almost as if on a lake, the expedition team held a meeting led by Ed and Andy to refresh our knowledge about glaciers, calving events, avalanches and other dangers that Antarctica always keeps in store — hazards we must remember and respect. After dinner, we shared a fantastic time trying to answer the Antarctic Quiz run by KJ.

But returning to the idea of farewells: are farewells truly sad moments? Farewells are necessary for us to meet again in the future. That means farewells are not an ending; they are the first step towards what lies ahead — a moment, or perhaps a day, that will come and find us together again, maybe forever.

The day began with a cheerful wake-up call, gently easing us into another morning on the Drake Passage. Breakfast in the dining room offered a warm and familiar start, giving everyone time to settle in as Hondius continued her steady course northward.

Our morning program unfolded in the Observation Lounge, beginning with KJ’s captivating lecture on the exploration of Antarctica. His storytelling brought to life the daring journeys and extraordinary perseverance of the early polar explorers. This was followed by Ed’s inspiring session on climbing Mount Vinson, Antarctica’s highest peak. His insight into the challenges and triumphs of tackling one of the Seven Summits painted a vivid picture of life at extreme altitude.

After a relaxed buffet lunch, we returned to the Observation Lounge for Alexis’s fascinating talk on the Yamana people, the Indigenous inhabitants of the southernmost reaches of Tierra del Fuego. Their deep connection to the sea and remarkable resilience offered a thoughtful contrast to our own brief presence in these latitudes.

Later in the afternoon, Valeria hosted a hands-on mate workshop in the lecture room. Her enthusiasm made it an engaging and authentic experience, giving us not only a taste of the traditional South American drink but also an appreciation for its cultural significance.

As evening approached, we gathered for the Farewell Toast with Captain Jan and the Expedition Team. The slideshow that followed brought our journey full circle, capturing the extraordinary moments, landscapes, and wildlife that shaped our time on the White Continent. It was a warm, reflective celebration of everything we experienced together.

The day concluded with a plated dinner in the Restaurant, enjoyed in good company as the ship carried on through the Southern Ocean.

Our final morning arrived quietly as the ship eased back into Ushuaia, the first light settling over the harbour. Before breakfast the corridors were already lined with luggage placed outside the cabins, a simple sign that the journey was drawing to its end. Breakfast itself felt warm and unhurried, filled with easy conversation and shared stories as everyone reflected on their favourite moments.

Soon after, we made our way ashore where our bags were arranged on the pier for collection. Farewells drifted across the group as fellow travellers exchanged hugs, handshakes and grateful thanks to the crew who had looked after us so well throughout the voyage.

With a final glance back at the ship that had carried us across the Drake Passage and through the unforgettable days in the ice, we stepped into the crisp Ushuaia morning carrying the memories of Antarctica with us.