HDS07-26, trip log, Around Spitsbergen, In the realm of Polar Bear & Ice

Our Arctic adventure began under beautiful skies in Longyearbyen, the world's northernmost town with a permanent population. Nestled on the shores of Adventfjorden and surrounded by rugged mountains, this former coal mining settlement is now a vibrant hub for Arctic research, tourism, and exploration. For many of us, it marked the gateway to one of the planet's last great wildernesses.  

Guests arrived throughout the day to embark on MV Hondius. With calm conditions and spectacular views across the fjord, excitement filled the air as everyone settled into their cabins and became acquainted with their home for the days ahead.  

Once all guests were safely on board, we gathered for the mandatory safety briefing. The bridge and hotel teams guided everyone through the essential safety procedures, ensuring we were well prepared before leaving port. This was followed by an introduction to the voyage ahead, where the Expedition Leader presented our itinerary, outlining the exciting plans for the coming days. The expedition team then introduced themselves, sharing their backgrounds and the expertise they would bring to our explorations of the High Arctic. 

Just as everyone was getting ready for dinner, we were treated to an unexpected wildlife encounter. An Arctic fox appeared along the pier beside the ship, calmly making its way along the shoreline as curious guests gathered on deck to watch. The fox lingered for a few minutes before disappearing as quietly as it had arrived, providing a memorable first wildlife sighting before we had even left the harbour.  

As the evening progressed, MV Hondius cast off from Longyearbyen and began her journey north through Isfjorden. Guests enjoyed the scenery from the outer decks as the colourful buildings of the settlement gradually faded into the distance, replaced by the vast Arctic landscape bathed in the soft evening light. 

Our first full day promises an exciting start. Weather and ice permitting, we plan to spend the morning cruising in front of the magnificent Lilliehöökbreen, one of Svalbard's largest and most impressive tidewater glaciers, before continuing to Ny-Ålesund in the afternoon. Once a coal mining town and now an international Arctic research community, Ny-Ålesund offers a fascinating blend of history, science, and spectacular polar scenery. 

We were very excited to wake up to the first full day of our expedition around Svalbard. The weather was incredibly warm for the Arctic and the sea around us was silky and smooth. The sun was shining and it was very comfortable to be on the outside decks.  

During breakfast we visited the spectacular Lilliehookbreen, a beautiful glacier at the end of a large fjord on the Northwest of Spitzbergen. Shortly after Marcel made the wake-up call we heard that there were some Beluga whales outside. It was amazing to see them around the glacier ice, a true Arctic marine mammal species surfacing to breathe close by.  

In the morning after breakfast, we were invited to the mandatory briefings. Here were learnt how to safely embark and disembark the zodiacs. We also learnt what to do in a situation where we might meet a Polar bear on one of our landings, and we watched the guidelines set out by AECO which showed us how to enjoy the Arctic in a way that is safe for us and the delicate environment.  

We continued our scenic cruise from Lilliehookbreen down into Kongsfjorden where we sailed past the settlement Ny Alesund, where we would be visiting later that day. We went further into the fjord to see the islands home to many bird species. Throughout the morning, we enjoyed watching the landscape pass by. The mirror calm water was creating beautiful reflections of the mountains and islands, and we could se many species of bird like the kittiwakes, little auks, Brunnich’s guillemots, and fulmars flying around and feeding at the surface. Even some minke whales were seen around the ship.  

As if the morning couldn’t be anymore spectacular, just before lunch we heard a very exciting announcement that a polar bear had been spotted from the bridge. It was a very large bear and its yellowish creamy colour stood out against the red and brown rocks. It was a hot morning, the bear was clearly warm, so it spent much of the time sleeping. It was quite a distance away, but we could see it well with our binoculars and telescopes.  

After admiring the ‘King of the Arctic’ we went for lunch.  

We arrived at the pier at Ny Alesund around 4pm. Ny Alesund is a settlement where many researchers live, studying the unique ecosystems of the Arctic and the impacts of pollution and climate change in this region. It is a unique place to live, and we enjoyed exploring the little town.  

Famous polar expeditions have set out from Ny-Ålesund, including the first flight across the North Pole in 1926 led by Roald Amundsen. We went in two groups to visit the steel mast where Amunsen’s airship was tethered to. Rose and Jens told the story of the expedition, starting at the large bust depicting Roald Amundsen and finishing at the mast. We learnt about the town’s mining history in the museum and enjoyed looking at the architecture. We could also visit the dog kennels and see the working sled dogs from a distance and a lot of interesting wildlife species were seen including a very curious arctic fox, reindeer, common seals in the harbour, and lots of Barnicle geese with their fluffy chicks grazing the tundra.  

We made our way back to the ship to hear about the plans for tomorrow from Marcel and to enjoy a plated dinner. We were quite amazed to have seen so many exciting arctic species and it was only the second day of our adventure. In the evening we soaked up the last views of Kongsfjorden before heading North to our next activities.  

The ship entered Smeerenburgfjorden in the early hours, and by the time the wake-up call came the northwest corner of Spitsbergen had opened out around us. Smeerenburg is one of the great names of Svalbard's history. Established by the Dutch in 1617, it once stood at the center of the European whale oil trade, and at its peak two hundred men worked here rendering the blubber of bowhead whales. The name they gave it, Blubber Town, tells you plainly enough what happened on these beaches. Today the ovens and the men are long gone, and the place belongs to the walrus. 

We boarded the zodiacs after breakfast, the Red Group first and the Blue Group close behind and set out to cruise the shoreline and the neighboring bay of Virgo Hamna. It did not take long to find what we came for. Walrus were hauled out on the low sandy beach, piled together in the loose heap they seem to prefer, and we held offshore at a respectful distance to watch them. There is no dignified way to describe a walrus at rest, and no need to. They are enormous, tusked, entirely unbothered, and they made the morning.  

Further along the shore the cruise brought us to something rather more sobering. A dead polar bear lay on the peak of the tiny island inside Virgo Hamna, right next to the hut. It is not the sighting anyone hopes for, and it prompted a good deal of quiet conversation aboard the zodiacs and later back on the ship. But there is nothing unnatural about it. Bears die, and in an ecosystem, this lean nothing is wasted. The carcass will feed foxes, gulls, and other bears through the season ahead. Seeing it up close is a reminder that this landscape is not a museum piece. It is a working Arctic, with all that implies.

We continued the cruise through the area, taking in the low islands and the open sweep of the fjord before returning to the ship for lunch. 

The afternoon took us south to Frambukta, a small bay on the northwestern coast. The cloud that had sat low over the mountain peaks for much of the morning was still with us as the first zodiacs went ashore. The long hikers landed at half past two and set off inland, with the perimeter walkers and the beach strollers following shortly after. Three different options, three different paces, and a landscape big enough to absorb all of them. 

Then the weather did what Svalbard weather occasionally does when nobody is expecting it. The cloud broke up, lifted, and cleared away entirely. What had been a grey morning turned into a bright, blue-sky afternoon, and the glacier at the head of the lagoon came fully into view. The light on the ice was extraordinary. Whichever group people had joined, everyone came back with photographs they will be looking at for a long time, and several came back declaring it the best landing they had ever done. 

The long hikers pushed further inland and worked for their views. The perimeter group had the slower, closer pleasures of the shoreline. Those who took the beach at an easy pace had the water, the ice and the light, and needed nothing more. By the time the last zodiacs came back to the ship, the bay was still in full sun. 

We gathered in the bar later for recap, where the Expedition Team unpacked some of what we had seen, the walrus among them and the harder question of the bear on the beach. Dinner followed in the dining room. Afterwards the bridge and the open decks stayed busy as we cruised through the islands of northwest Svalbard, with people scanning the water and the shorelines in the long light of an Arctic evening that never quite becomes night. 

Two hugely different halves to one day. History and walrus in the morning, ice and blue sky in the afternoon, and in between a reminder of what it costs to live here.

We woke up to a calm morning with Albert's voice calling us for breakfast. The sea was smooth with small waves moving about. Mirroring the dark clouds above, the sea was dark grey with shimmer of the light coming through the clouds. At the horizon, as a rim of white, the sea ice was waiting for us. Slowly we were moving closer, and the rim was growing wider. During breakfast, we were hitting the first ice floes, and soon we were surrounded by ice on all sides. What a different atmosphere out here, a different world. As we moved further into the sea ice, fog started building and soon this new world got even more mystical in the midst of the fog. With the wind blowing from the south, moist warmer air is pushed over the sea ice where it is cooled down and the vapour condenses, creating fog.  

We were out on deck taking in this new musical place, slowly making our way deeper into the sea ice. Sea birds were flying about, enjoying the free meals brought up by the ships propellors. Every now and then, a seal popped its heat out of the water. A bearded seal was also spotted resting on an ice floe. 

In the afternoon Li and Annelou held a lecture about sea ice and glacier ice and how important the ice is up here, both for the climate, the ecosystem and the glacier ice carving the landscape. Later on in the recap we learnt about the brinacles created as frozen fingers from underneath the sea ice, from the highly salty water expelled when the sea ice forms, slowly sinking down below and freezing on the outside. 

In the evening the outer decks were ready for an outdoor bbq with a nice selection of food prepared by the galley team. Now, the fog had also lifted a bit and the evening light was peeking out from the clouds. After a delicious meal, the tables were cleared and the music turned. And what a great effort on the dance floor, we were all showing off our best dance moves and spreading joy and smiles.

Today was one of the most memorable days of our expedition. Overnight, we drifted amongst the Arctic pack ice, surrounded by endless white ice floes beneath the incredible midnight sun. With no wake-up call, we enjoyed a relaxed start to the day, although a few of us were feeling a little worse for wear after last night's BBQ festivities. We headed out onto the outer decks and bridge to scan the ice for wildlife. The silence and beauty of the Arctic made every moment feel special, and although we remained hopeful, hours of searching without a sighting had us wondering if today would be our lucky day. 

After breakfast, we attended Charlotte’s lecture on polar bears, which was extremely insightful. We learnt how these remarkable animals are perfectly adapted to survive in one of the harshest environments on Earth and how dependent they are on the sea ice for hunting and raising their young. At the time, we had no idea that everything we had just learnt would become so relevant later in the day. Throughout the morning, the expedition team encouraged us to continue keeping watch for wildlife, even as our hopes of spotting a polar bear slowly began to fade. 

Just when we were starting to think we might not see one, an announcement came over the ship that a female polar bear and her two cubs had been spotted on the pack ice. We quickly gathered on deck, making sure to stay quiet so we didn't disturb them. It was incredible to watch the family moving across the ice, with the cubs disobeying their mother, as they began play fighting on ice and, subsequently, loitering in the water as she searched for food. We were fortunate enough to witness her attempting to hunt seals amongst the ice floes, giving us a rare glimpse into the natural behaviour we had only learnt about that morning. Seeing everything from Charlotte's lecture come to life before our eyes made the experience even more meaningful. It was an unforgettable moment and undoubtedly the highlight of our day. 

Later in the afternoon, we attended Jens’ lecture on Andrée’s balloon expedition towards the North Pole. Learning about the determination and hardships faced by the early explorers gave us an even greater appreciation for the Arctic and the challenges of travelling through such a remote environment. 

Before dinner, we gathered in the bar for the daily recap, where everyone enthusiastically shared their thoughts on the incredible polar bear sighting. As we reflected on the day, we realised how fortunate we were to witness such a rare moment in the wild. Today reminded us that patience is often rewarded in the Arctic, and seeing a mother polar bear teaching her cubs how to survive in their icy home is a memory we will all treasure forever.

Following breakfast, guests divided into long, medium, and short hiking groups for a morning ashore on Nordaustlandet, Svalbard's second-largest island. The long hikers initially set out as a single group before splitting partway through the excursion. One group, led by Charlotte and Matt, continued on a 13-kilometre wilderness hike lasting approximately six hours, while the second group, led by Li and Chris, completed an extended 17-kilometre hike over the course of seven hours. With no marked trails to follow, both groups crossed the island's stark polar desert, traversing vast gravel plains, patterned ground, and gently undulating terrain. The landscape felt almost lunar—an immense, silent wilderness where life appeared scarce at first glance. Yet, on closer inspection, delicate Arctic flowers sheltered beneath rocks to escape the relentless wind, while the occasional fossil scattered across the ground hinted at a very different past, telling the story of a time when this now-barren landscape lay beneath the sea as an ancient shoreline.  

Meanwhile, the medium and short hiking groups explored the historic Kinnvika research station and its surrounding wilderness at a more leisurely pace, taking time to appreciate the area's unique geology, fragile tundra vegetation, and the well-preserved remnants of its scientific past. After returning to the ship, guests enjoyed a buffet lunch while the vessel cruised through the spectacular scenery of Lomfjorden and the Hinlopen Strait.  

In the Observation Lounge, Jess presented an engaging lecture on "Birds of the Arctic," introducing many of the Bird species encountered during the voyage and explaining their remarkable adaptations to life in one of the world's harshest environments. Later, Matt and Juan hosted a photography workshop, sharing practical techniques for capturing Arctic landscapes and wildlife with their beautiful photographs. Before dinner, the Expedition Team gathered everyone in the bar for the daily recap, reflecting on the day's adventures and outlining the evening's plans. 

After dinner, guests boarded the zodiacs for an evening cruise beneath the towering cliffs of Alkefjellet. This was an unforgettable opportunity to witness one of Svalbard's largest seabird colonies, where 60,000 pairs of Brünnich's Guillemots crowded the dramatic dolerite cliffs. The spectacular setting along with an Arctic Fox made a fantastic end to the day.

Our day began with an early morning transit through Freemansundet, the narrow sound separating Edgeøya from Barentsøya. The passage offered stunning views of Svalbard's rugged eastern landscapes, while guests gathered on the outer decks and in the Observation Lounge, keeping a careful watch for wildlife. Freemansundet is well known as a prime polar bear habitat, and anticipation remained high as we slowly made our way through the 35-kilometre strait. 

During the morning, Hana presented her lecture, One Year in Svalbard, sharing her experiences of living in the High Arctic through the ever-changing seasons. Her stories provided a fascinating insight into the unique challenges and rewards of life in one of the world's northernmost inhabited regions. 

By early afternoon, we arrived at the magnificent front of Negribreen, one of the largest tidewater glaciers in Svalbard. Towering blue ice cliffs stretched across the horizon as countless icebergs drifted quietly in the waters of Storfjorden, creating a breathtaking setting for our Zodiac cruise. 

The afternoon quickly became one of the highlights of the voyage. While exploring the glacier front, we were delighted to spot a polar bear resting on the sea ice. Fresh from a recent meal, the bear's stained, "dirty" fur—a common sight after feeding or travelling across muddy ice and sediments—made for an authentic glimpse into the life of Svalbard's top predator. The encounter allowed everyone to enjoy prolonged views from a respectful distance while witnessing the bear in its natural environment against the spectacular backdrop of Negribreen. 

To make the afternoon even more memorable, the Hotel Department surprised everyone by sending a Zodiac loaded with hot chocolate, delivering warm drinks directly to guests while they admired the glacier from the ice-filled waters. Enjoying a steaming cup of hot chocolate surrounded by towering blue ice and floating bergs was a truly special Arctic experience that many will remember for years to come. 

With excellent weather, calm conditions, and such exceptional wildlife viewing, our Expedition Leader decided to extend the Zodiac cruise by an additional hour, allowing everyone even more time to appreciate the glacier and continue observing the polar bear. The extra time on the water was met with great enthusiasm, and smiles were evident on every face as guests soaked up the remarkable scenery and unforgettable wildlife encounter. 

Back on board, everyone gathered in the Bar for the evening recap, where the day's incredible experiences were relived and tomorrow's plans revealed. The excitement around the ship was unmistakable as conversations continued over dinner, with many agreeing that witnessing a polar bear in front of the majestic Negribreen had been one of the defining moments of the expedition.

The weather wasn't great today. During the morning wake-up call, the Expedition Leader Marcle announced that wind speeds had reached over 30 knots. As had been communicated during the previous day's briefing, the Expedition Team had no choice but to cancel this morning's outdoor expedition activities. Instead, a series of lectures on various topics were arranged. Lucia gave a lecture on the special physiological adaptations that polar wildlife has evolved to survive the harsh Arctic environment. Li presented a comparative lecture on the geography of the Arctic versus the Antarctic, along with other differences between the two poles. Assistant Expedition Leader Chris also introduced additional expedition itineraries offered by Oceanwide Expeditions. 

Despite the rough seas and noticeable ship rolling in the morning—which caused seasickness among quite a few passengers—attendance at the lectures remained fairly high. The Expedition Team kept a close eye on the weather conditions and provided real-time updates throughout the day. 

By the afternoon, the ship anchored within Hornsund fjord, hoping to use the fjord's topography as a sheltered haven. However, the weather did not improve; in fact, wind speeds climbed to 51 knots. Under such conditions, no outdoor activities could be arranged for safety reasons. But Expedition Team member Charlott had prepared a fun quiz with prizes—all questions were drawn from the knowledge shared during previous lectures and daily recaps. Passengers formed teams to answer the questions, recalling together everything they had learned over the past few days. The prizes were two bottles of red wine, and everyone participated with great enthusiasm. It was clear that everyone had a wonderful time. 

Despite the poor weather, life onboard remained rich and enjoyable. In the evening, Hotel Manager Albert gave a presentation on the disembarkation procedures. It was hard to believe that this voyage would come to an end—time had flown by far too quickly, and everyone felt a deep sense of reluctance to leave. Many passengers were already starting to plan their next Antarctic adventure. 

Let's hope tomorrow brings the good weather that was forecasted during the briefing. For the final day of the itinerary, we all wish for a perfect and memorable conclusion.

After a rough night, with quite a bit of swell, we sailed into the waters of Billefjorden. First past Longyearbyen, a town very recognisable to us, and then past Pyramiden, which was a completely new sight for us. Some of us heard stories about this Russian ghost town, but even from afar it was quite impressive to see. But that was not our destination for today; we were landing again at Brucebyen! Sailing close to the landing site it was nice to feel that the waters were already calmer here. Then, around 9, first the long hikers came ashore, followed by the medium and the short hikers. Hana lead the long hikers, and as we walked past the historic huts, as once this was a place for coal mining, two journalists staying in the hut were discovered! They talked a bit about their project and the long hikers continued on their way. Most of us got the opportunity to see some beautiful tundra vegetation, including cotton grass, and even some eggs were laying around. Some of us even saw reindeer! At the end of this morning, we got a crazy opportunity; to polar plunge! Many of us took this chance to test our bathing suits and to test how cold the water actually was. Spoiler: it was not very warm. We welcomed lunch after this eventful morning, and then continued with our last outing of the trip!  

We went out with the zodiacs into Adolfbukta, near the glacier front. The glacier, Nordskolbreen, was named after the famous Swedish explorer who was the first one to complete the Northeast Passage. We had the opportunity to see a modern cabin (which looked very cozy), some glacier calvings, and even some Common Eider ducklings, which were very cute. After about 1,5 hour or so the wind picked up significantly, so we had to return to the Hondius. For our last trip back, we truly had an Arctic experience; we started with sunshine but ended with a experience almost similar to the plunge some of us experienced that morning! 

At the end of the day, we all gathered in the observation lounge for the last time, for a Captain’s  cocktail. As we reflected back on the trip we had and the amazing memories we shared, we toasted, and Guan showed us the amazing slideshow he prepared of our trip, which we all gladly watched, reminisicing of our trip and some of the moments we shared. During dinner, we gave several rounds of applauses for our amazing hotel staff, and then finally, the moment arrived where we started preparing our suitcases. After this last full day, we went to bed tired but content, ready for the last wakeup call that Marcel would give tomorrow.  

After an unforgettable journey through the High Arctic, today marked the end of our adventure aboard M/V Hondius. It was a bittersweet morning as we enjoyed one last hearty breakfast together, sharing stories, favourite moments and plenty of laughs from the past days exploring Svalbard. 

Before long, it was time to gather ourselves and prepare to leave the ship that had been our home throughout the voyage. As we stepped ashore in Longyearbyen, there was a real mix of emotions. While everyone was looking forward to the next stage of their travels, it was also hard to say goodbye to the wonderful crew, Expedition Team and new friends who had become our Oceanwide family. 

From towering glaciers and dramatic ice-covered landscapes to incredible wildlife encounters and unforgettable Zodiac cruises, we've shared experiences that will stay with us for years to come. Together we've explored one of the most remote and spectacular places on Earth, creating memories that are sure to be retold long after we've returned home. 

Although our expedition has come to an end, the memories, photographs and friendships made along the way will remain. We leave Hondius with full hearts, incredible stories to share and a deeper appreciation for the beauty and fragility of the Arctic. Safe travels, and we hope our paths cross again on another adventure.